Beginners Guide to Acclimation and Quarantine

My goal is to provide a simplified guide on how to acclimate and do a basic quarantine of fish. The quarantine method I am recommending is not...
  1. Susan Edwards

    Susan Edwards Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    I'm still fairly new but wouldn't it be better to wait until you start to get at least diatoms before adding a cuc? And pods as well? From what I understand, pods also help as part of a cuc. You can feed the tank the phyto (sp?) stuff from algae barn but I'd think the pods would survive better once the tank had been up and going for a while. Pods are expensive! Dragon's breath is a very hardy macro.
     
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  2. Chris Wells

    Chris Wells Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    I certainly can wait..If my ammonia consumption test goes well, I will turn on the lights and would imagine that any diatoms will show themselves. I kind of think they are already there at the micro-level. Since using dry rock and sand, I have read in articles that is is even more important for me to add the microfauna early, to try and establish some sort of "bio-diversity" as soon as possible.

    Besides, to me... this is the fun part. But to your point, I don't want to rush it.

    Thanks Susan for the input.
     
  3. Brew12

    Brew12 Electrical Gru R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Build Thread Contributor Article Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    You can add your CuC as soon as your water parameters say you are ready. You just may need to feed them since you won't have much for them to clean up. Sinking algae wafers work great for this. Feeding the tank a small portion of frozen food such as LRS or Rod's is a good idea, also. If you are willing to feed the tank you can add a CuC any time imo.
     
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  4. Chris Wells

    Chris Wells Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    Awesome, Thanks Again.

    I will quit hi-jacking this thread now and move over to the invert thread.
     
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  5. 75galOCD

    75galOCD Well-Known Member

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    This is really good info! My guess all fish that haven't been QTed are compromised.
    When we do the FW dip is it just a few seconds in a container of temp appropriate RO & what exactly am I looking for I never seen flukes?
    I am getting the rest of the process right up to the end, I think the water is still copper rich in the QT tank before you transfer to the DT if I only have 1 QT tank, is this right? I follow the strainer transfer method so if the QT tank water is copper rich & the only copper transferred to the DT will be in the water on the fish? And why is it we don't want copper in the DT?
    Thank you!
     
  6. ._Z_.

    ._Z_. New Member

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    Excellent discussion. Can you provide more information on fresh water dipping? How do you do it, what are the risks, what do you specifically look for to decide if the fish has flukes?
     
  7. Brew12

    Brew12 Electrical Gru R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Build Thread Contributor Article Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    Glad you liked it!

    Meredith put together this awesome video on how to do a FW dip. This couldn't make doing one any easier!
    https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/video-how-to-do-a-freshwater-dip.214/

    Yes, for this to work the tank must have full level of copper for at least 9 days and then remove the fish prior letting it drop.

    If you notice, I take the fish out of the QT using a net or strainer and put it into a smaller container of fresh DT water. I then dump this water through the strainer again prior to adding to the DT. The small container acts like a rinse to help keep copper out of the DT

    Copper works because it is a toxin. The fish can just survive longer in it (typically) than the parasites. Your corals and inverts will be very sensitive to copper so it is important to keep as much copper out of the system as possible.
     
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