BJD dip everything or only infected?

[FishPham]

First time dealing with BJD, but luckily I have all of the ingredients for KFC dip since I have some expensive torches so figured I should have it on hand as precautionary.

Anyways, one of my torches caught BJD and lost half of it's head. I've already pulled it and the surrounding torches and started treatment.

My question is, should I dip all of my Euphyllias I have in my tank or only the infected? I have a bit over 20 torches, 20 hammers and 10 octospawns. Alot to pull considering most of them are still healthy and showing good fleshy tissue band.

 

[Cell]

I would only dip the affected torches. Maybe @MERKEY or @ADAM can correct me if this is bad advice though!

 

[FishPham]

I would only dip the affected torches. Maybe @MERKEY or @ADAM can correct me if this is bad advice though!

I assumed the same, but just wanted to make sure since I've read BJD is contagious.

 

[Kzang]

I’m dosing cipro only in tank. Works like crazy. Doing it at night. On night 3. After day 2, difference is astounding.

Dose is water volume in liters times 0.125 divided by 10 taking from one 500g pill dissolved in 50 ml rodi.

 

[Lavey29]

BJD develops because of a severe imbalance in your parameters which causes coral stress and compromises their immune systems thus allowing BJD to invade. Dips are not very effective. Frag off infected heads. Ciprofloaxin in the tank can be effective but doesn't correct the underlying problems causing your corals stress.

 

[FishPham]

I've been testing my parameters every 3-4 days since my phosphates was at .23 a few weeks ago and slowly brought it down to .09

Aside from phosphates issues

Hanna checkers:
Phosphates - .09
Nitrates - 14
Alkalinity - 9.8

Red sea:
Calcium - 420

Aquaforest:
Magnesium - 1420

Pinpoint probe and Hanna probe
pH - 8.1

 

[Lavey29]

I've been testing my parameters every 3-4 days since my phosphates was at .23 a few weeks ago and slowly brought it down to .09

Aside from phosphates issues

Hanna checkers:
Phosphates - .09
Nitrates - 14
Alkalinity - 9.8

Red sea:
Calcium - 420

Aquaforest:
Magnesium - 1420

Pinpoint probe and Hanna probe
pH - 8.1

Those numbers aren't bad but how about light and flow?

A new coral can also bring BJD into your tank but most vendors are careful with this because it's their livelihood. I've had some develop BJD during shipping.

 

[FishPham]

Those numbers aren't bad but how about light and flow?

A new coral can also bring BJD into your tank but most vendors are careful with this because it's their livelihood. I've had some develop BJD during shipping.

I have 3 reefi duos extreme 14" above the tank. Tested with an Apogee MQ-510 I borrowed from my local reef club so nothing is getting scorched.

2x XF350 cloud running sine wave mode at 30%. These things are powerful so they're only running at a 3rd of the power.

Also forgot to mention the tank is also 2 years old. That specific torch is 1 week old. It's been on a frag rack so I can monitor it as well as a few others that came in with it. I treated those pieces in the KFC dip, but wanted to see if I should treat my other corals on my rockwork just to be safe.

I'll leave them alone for now and will continue monitoring this torch with the BJD

 

[Lavey29]

I have 3 reefi duos extreme 14" above the tank. Tested with an Apogee MQ-510 I borrowed from my local reef club so nothing is getting scorched.

2x XF350 cloud running sine wave mode at 30%. These things are powerful so they're only running at a 3rd of the power.

Also forgot to mention the tank is also 2 years old. That specific torch is 1 week old. It's been on a frag rack so I can monitor it as well as a few others that came in with it. I treated those pieces in the KFC dip, but wanted to see if I should treat my other corals on my rockwork just to be safe.

I'll leave them alone for now and will continue monitoring this torch with the BJD

Sounds like you have all areas covered. It may have developed BJD due ti shipping stress. Frag off the bad heads.

 

[FishPham]

Sounds like you have all areas covered. It may have developed BJD due ti shipping stress. Frag off the bad heads.

I came back after a long hiatus and told myself this time around I will do everything right lol

Fragged off the infected and will continue monitoring after the dip. Leaving the established stuff alone.

 

[Lavey29]

I came back after a long hiatus and told myself this time around I will do everything right lol

Fragged off the infected and will continue monitoring after the dip. Leaving the established stuff alone.

I've had it a couple times over past 3 years. Mainly just hit my torches too.

Ciprofloaxin is best if it really starts hitting your tank.

 

[FishPham]

I've had it a couple times over past 3 years. Mainly just hit my torches too.

Ciprofloaxin is best if it really starts hitting your tank.

I'll do in-tank dosing just to be safe for the next few days.

 

[Lavey29]

I'll do in-tank dosing just to be safe for the next few days.

My DT is 65g. I used one 125mg pill diluted in tank water every other night for 6 nights. So dosing it after lights out. 3 pills over 6 days. Take out carbon but leave skimmer on. I had no negative side effects.

 

[FishPham]

My DT is 65g. I used one 125mg pill diluted in tank water every other night for 6 nights. So dosing it after lights out. 3 pills over 6 days. Take out carbon but leave skimmer on. I had no negative side effects.

Preciate the help! Will follow this regimen and hopefully it clears the tank of all the nasties this torch might've brought in.

 

[Lavey29]

Preciate the help! Will follow this regimen and hopefully it clears the tank of all the nasties this torch might've brought in.

It take a while for those pills to dissolve before adding to the tank and needs to be added after lights out.

 

[FishPham]

It take a while for those pills to dissolve before adding to the tank and needs to be added after lights out.

500mg dissolved in 50ml of rodi. Dosed 100mg in the tank with lights off and skimmer running.

Also, infected piece seems to be looking better after KFC dip. Neighboring pieces that went in the dip reinflated. Waiting till lights come on tomorrow to better judge their condition.

 

[MERKEY]

The problem is BJD will come back once you have another imbalance.

It's never totally gone as bacteria is continually added to our tanks.

It's like we get infected cuts they do aswell.

It can happen from a fish knocking into them or a snail rubbing too hard on the flesh with its skeleton.

You're doing what you can, just don't expect it to totally be gone once you're done.

Keeping water closer to 74 or lower to help slow bacteria growth is also helpful but doesn't stop it.

Cutting odd infected heads is the best option but the bacteria is in the whole skeleton so eventually it gets to other heads.

Not trying to he a downer just trying to be realistic with you.

You're in a battle now, and the end isn't near.

To really stop it you need a QT for all your new frags, snails fish. Separate one for each.

This way you catch it before it gets into your tank.

Also just buy from people you know have had colonies for a long time and not vendors flipping their new stash straight out of cipro baths. ....that's a certian way to get an infected piece.

It takes months to eradicate this from any tank while not adding or doing anything new to the tank and keeping things stable as possible.

Good luck with your fight, you are doing well!

 

[Lavey29]

The problem is BJD will come back once you have another imbalance.

It's never totally gone as bacteria is continually added to our tanks.

It's like we get infected cuts they do aswell.

It can happen from a fish knocking into them or a snail rubbing too hard on the flesh with its skeleton.

You're doing what you can, just don't expect it to totally be gone once you're done.

Keeping water closer to 74 or lower to help slow bacteria growth is also helpful but doesn't stop it.

Cutting odd infected heads is the best option but the bacteria is in the whole skeleton so eventually it gets to other heads.

Not trying to he a downer just trying to be realistic with you.

You're in a battle now, and the end isn't near.

To really stop it you need a QT for all your new frags, snails fish. Separate one for each.

This way you catch it before it gets into your tank.

Also just buy from people you know have had colonies for a long time and not vendors flipping their new stash straight out of cipro baths. ....that's a certian way to get an infected piece.

It takes months to eradicate this from any tank while not adding or doing anything new to the tank and keeping things stable as possible.

Good luck with your fight, you are doing well!

I also believe the bacteria stays in the tank long term but in a dormant state as long as the environment is good for corals but if things get unbalanced then the bacteria can attack euphyllia. I do think ciprofloaxin can eliminate the immediate tank infection but not sure if it completely eliminates it from the system but I'm also one who believes ich is present in every tank also but dormant unless a big stresser happens to the fish.

 

[FishPham]

Thanks @MERKEY .

The problem is BJD will come back once you have another imbalance.

It's never totally gone as bacteria is continually added to our tanks.

It's like we get infected cuts they do aswell.

It can happen from a fish knocking into them or a snail rubbing too hard on the flesh with its skeleton.

You're doing what you can, just don't expect it to totally be gone once you're done.

Keeping water closer to 74 or lower to help slow bacteria growth is also helpful but doesn't stop it.

Cutting odd infected heads is the best option but the bacteria is in the whole skeleton so eventually it gets to other heads.

Not trying to he a downer just trying to be realistic with you.

You're in a battle now, and the end isn't near.

To really stop it you need a QT for all your new frags, snails fish. Separate one for each.

This way you catch it before it gets into your tank.

Also just buy from people you know have had colonies for a long time and not vendors flipping their new stash straight out of cipro baths. ....that's a certian way to get an infected piece.

It takes months to eradicate this from any tank while not adding or doing anything new to the tank and keeping things stable as possible.

Good luck with your fight, you are doing well!

Preciate the tips and kind words. Will see how things look throughout the day once the light comes on and figure out what's the next plan of action. Not gonna give up and continue putting up a fight. Will keep y'all posted and thanks again for the guidance!

 

[MERKEY]

I also believe the bacteria stays in the tank long term but in a dormant state as long as the environment is good for corals but if things get unbalanced then the bacteria can attack euphyllia. I do think ciprofloaxin can eliminate the immediate tank infection but not sure if it completely eliminates it from the system but I'm also one who believes ich is present in every tank also but dormant unless a big stresser happens to the fish.

I agree with this aswell!