Box Of Crayons

[That Crusso Kid]

Morning ish.. all! Im about to pull the trigger on the custom build from glass cages. 5 ft by 30 front to back by 24 tall.

Any of you have experience with custom builds for suggestions?

In agreement with everything that @dantimdad said. I know a number of reefers that had their tanks built by Glass Cages and all have been very happy. Very recently, @RobertK recently had a tank done by Glass Cages.

 

[ReeferTCG]

Morning ish.. all! Im about to pull the trigger on the custom build from glass cages. 5 ft by 30 front to back by 24 tall.

Any of you have experience with custom builds for suggestions?

In agreement with everything that @dantimdad said. I know a number of reefers that had their tanks built by Glass Cages and all have been very happy. Very recently, @RobertK recently had a tank done by Glass Cages.

Nice!! Im going with the modular marine 1600 ghost overflow 2 return holes. Not sure if I need more holes drilled.

 

[fishguy242]

I would do 4 more in back 2 high ,2 low, closed loop,uv,etc,better to have them than not...

 

[ReeferTCG]

I would do 4 more in back 2 high ,2 low, closed loop,uv,etc,better to have them than not...

Interesting i had not thought about a closed loop on a 5 ft

 

[ReeferTCG]

Also debating 5 ft vs 6ft both fit but 6ft will look a bit tight any big benefits for a 6ft?

 

[tbrown]

Also debating 5 ft vs 6ft both fit but 6ft will look a bit tight any big benefits for a 6ft?

Swim room for larger tangs is about the only reason I could see.

 

[ReeferTCG]

Also debating 5 ft vs 6ft both fit but 6ft will look a bit tight any big benefits for a 6ft?

Swim room for larger tangs is about the only reason I could see.

Ok makes sense im not huge on larger tangs so i might stick to 5 make wife happier budget happier and space more breathable

 

[tbrown]

Ok makes sense im not huge on larger tangs so i might stick to 5 make wife happier budget happier and space more breathable

Go with a wider tank instead of a longer tank. 21" to 24" instead of 18" if you can.

 

[ReeferTCG]

Ok makes sense im not huge on larger tangs so i might stick to 5 make wife happier budget happier and space more breathable

Go with a wider tank instead of a longer tank. 21" to 24" instead of 18" if you can.

100% going 30’’

 

[tharbin]

100% going 30’’

I really like the tank dimensions you posted. If the wall I wanted the tank on was just 4" wider I would have gone for a 5' instead of 4' and I really like the 30" depth, even if I only get to aquascape 22" of it because of the AIO. My tank is 16" tall which is great for cleaning but if I could do it again I would go 20" high. My stand is also 36" and while I like the idea of 24" I think I would start to have problems with maintenance as that puts the rim at 5' from the floor and I don't like using ladders for tank work. Now, if I was 6'4" or above, but then again my wife does a fair amount of the cleaning and she needs a step ladder for cleaning the acrylic even at a 16" height.

 

[ReeferTCG]

100% going 30’’

I really like the tank dimensions you posted. If the wall I wanted the tank on was just 4" wider I would have gone for a 5' instead of 4' and I really like the 30" depth, even if I only get to aquascape 22" of it because of the AIO. My tank is 16" tall which is great for cleaning but if I could do it again I would go 20" high. My stand is also 36" and while I like the idea of 24" I think I would start to have problems with maintenance as that puts the rim at 5' from the floor and I don't like using ladders for tank work. Now, if I was 6'4" or above, but then again my wife does a fair amount of the cleaning and she needs a step ladder for cleaning the acrylic even at a 16" height.

Fair! Im on the edge! 6’ 3 but im getting a taller stand because I need to hunch to look at the tank from the front with 36 inch tall stand

 

[tharbin]

Fair! Im on the edge! 6’ 3 but im getting a taller stand because I need to hunch to look at the tank from the front with 36 inch tall stand

Yeah, I would not go down from 36" again. It's okay to go lower for a frag system or similar.

 

[ReeferTCG]

Hey All! Hope you had an amazing weekend!

I had a question for you. Im designing the plumbing for the 6 ft future build. Is there a best practice thread for plumbing? Ive heard minimize 90s bend each bend is 1ft of head pressure. So i designed everything with 45 elbows.

I see a brs investigates that 90 vs 45 dont change much… so im thinking that minimize bends over using 45/ 90s

Im also trying to future proof by adding a manifold. Using unions everywhere i can and gate valve in main drain.

 

[tbrown]

@UncommonSense is a good one to ask plumbing questions.

 

[UncommonSense]

Is there a best practice thread for plumbing?

Unfortunately, there isn’t really one good thread with all the info, it’s definitely smattered around in a bunch of different use case examples!

Here are a few key points to get you started, though!

— pipe glue/cement is actually a chemical welding method; you should use the correct type of cement for each type of plastic (here, you’ll likely be working mostly, or exclusively with PVC plastic)… oh, and use primer prior to cementing! (Primer can be purchased in clear, vs. purple, use it before cementing each joint together… it chemically cleans the pipe surface of any oils/debris before you solvent weld the pipe into the fitting)

— always dry fit everything first before cementing (the pipe is parallel walled, the fitting sockets have tapering walls… pipe should not be able to easily “bottom out” in a fitting’s socket unless cement has been applied)… you can use scrap lengths of pipe that are a bit shorter than you need to get everything to sit in place while dry-fitted… once you’re happy with how everything looks in dry-fit, measure the distance from socket lip to socket lip of each pipe segment, then add the total insertable depth of each socket to that number (for example, 10” of exposed pipe socket lip to socket lip, 3/4” deep sockets, target final cemented in pipe length is 11.5”!)

Regarding threaded fittings, I like using bulkheads with internal pipe threads on the nut side… this allows me to physically remove the plumbing from the bulkhead fittings down the road when their rubber gaskets needs to be replaced, without cutting any pipes out! Other than that, the choice between pipe thread and cemented socked is dictated by the distance a pipe needs to travel between fittings… you can technically get threaded PVC pipe stubs, but they are overpriced schedule 80 (higher max pressure rating than white sch.40 fittings, thus thicker walls [smaller ID], and increased price), and severely limit your options for plumbing everything exactly how you like it!


TLDR: you’ll need to cement some fittings, the measurements are quite important, and you shouldn’t hesitate to ask about any situation-specific, or general questions you have relative to the topic!

 

[ReeferTCG]

Is there a best practice thread for plumbing?

Unfortunately, there isn’t really one good thread with all the info, it’s definitely smattered around in a bunch of different use case examples!

Here are a few key points to get you started, though!

— pipe glue/cement is actually a chemical welding method; you should use the correct type of cement for each type of plastic (here, you’ll likely be working mostly, or exclusively with PVC plastic)… oh, and use primer prior to cementing! (Primer can be purchased in clear, vs. purple, use it before cementing each joint together… it chemically cleans the pipe surface of any oils/debris before you solvent weld the pipe into the fitting)

— always dry fit everything first before cementing (the pipe is parallel walled, the fitting sockets have tapering walls… pipe should not be able to easily “bottom out” in a fitting’s socket unless cement has been applied)… you can use scrap lengths of pipe that are a bit shorter than you need to get everything to sit in place while dry-fitted… once you’re happy with how everything looks in dry-fit, measure the distance from socket lip to socket lip of each pipe segment, then add the total insertable depth of each socket to that number (for example, 10” of exposed pipe socket lip to socket lip, 3/4” deep sockets, target final cemented in pipe length is 11.5”!)

Regarding threaded fittings, I like using bulkheads with internal pipe threads on the nut side… this allows me to physically remove the plumbing from the bulkhead fittings down the road when their rubber gaskets needs to be replaced, without cutting any pipes out! Other than that, the choice between pipe thread and cemented socked is dictated by the distance a pipe needs to travel between fittings… you can technically get threaded PVC pipe stubs, but they are overpriced schedule 80 (higher max pressure rating than white sch.40 fittings, thus thicker walls [smaller ID], and increased price), and severely limit your options for plumbing everything exactly how you like it!


TLDR: you’ll need to cement some fittings, the measurements are quite important, and you shouldn’t hesitate to ask about any situation-specific, or general questions you have relative to the topic!

Amazing write up! Thank you!

This is what I have so far. I haven’t designed the fittings so they look like part of the pipe or haven’t add the unions/valve yet. And the line to return pump will be flex into barb fitting.

 

[UncommonSense]

Amazing write up! Thank you!

This is what I have so far. I haven’t designed the fittings so they look like part of the pipe or haven’t add the unions/valve yet. And the line to return pump will be flex into barb fitting.

Very nice! You’ve done some homework, I see!

Pro tip? When houses are being built, the plumber comes in first after it’s all framed out to plumb in all the gravity drains! Then, all the pressurized plumbing and electrical is added in around the drains afterwards!

This said, the gravity fed drains are the most important ones to keep as simple, straight-ish, downhill sloping runs! — I’d recommend prioritizing drains first, then plumbing the pressurized returns around them!

— I find that it’s wise to install a union on each drain immediately after the bulkhead fitting, these unions can be ordered with male pipe threads on one side and a socket on the other side, as such:

This allows you to combine each union and bulkhead fitting into one subassembly of only two components, as seen here:

Note the union on each end of each drain so each pipe can be quickly removed as needed… the union at each bulkhead also serves to prevent the bulkhead from starting to spin loose if you tweak the plumbing, instead spinning at the union!

As you can also see above, returns are done last, and plumbed in 3D around the drains, because they’re pressurized, and much more tolerant of direction changes/etc!

 

[That Crusso Kid]

Hey All! Hope you had an amazing weekend!

I had a question for you. Im designing the plumbing for the 6 ft future build. Is there a best practice thread for plumbing? Ive heard minimize 90s bend each bend is 1ft of head pressure. So i designed everything with 45 elbows.

I see a brs investigates that 90 vs 45 dont change much… so im thinking that minimize bends over using 45/ 90s

Im also trying to future proof by adding a manifold. Using unions everywhere i can and gate valve in main drain.

Something that is worth considering is using gate valves for all valves, especially on the manifold.

Unfortunately, there isn’t really one good thread with all the info, it’s definitely smattered around in a bunch of different use case examples!

Here are a few key points to get you started, though!

— pipe glue/cement is actually a chemical welding method; you should use the correct type of cement for each type of plastic (here, you’ll likely be working mostly, or exclusively with PVC plastic)… oh, and use primer prior to cementing! (Primer can be purchased in clear, vs. purple, use it before cementing each joint together… it chemically cleans the pipe surface of any oils/debris before you solvent weld the pipe into the fitting)

— always dry fit everything first before cementing (the pipe is parallel walled, the fitting sockets have tapering walls… pipe should not be able to easily “bottom out” in a fitting’s socket unless cement has been applied)… you can use scrap lengths of pipe that are a bit shorter than you need to get everything to sit in place while dry-fitted… once you’re happy with how everything looks in dry-fit, measure the distance from socket lip to socket lip of each pipe segment, then add the total insertable depth of each socket to that number (for example, 10” of exposed pipe socket lip to socket lip, 3/4” deep sockets, target final cemented in pipe length is 11.5”!)

Regarding threaded fittings, I like using bulkheads with internal pipe threads on the nut side… this allows me to physically remove the plumbing from the bulkhead fittings down the road when their rubber gaskets needs to be replaced, without cutting any pipes out! Other than that, the choice between pipe thread and cemented socked is dictated by the distance a pipe needs to travel between fittings… you can technically get threaded PVC pipe stubs, but they are overpriced schedule 80 (higher max pressure rating than white sch.40 fittings, thus thicker walls [smaller ID], and increased price), and severely limit your options for plumbing everything exactly how you like it!


TLDR: you’ll need to cement some fittings, the measurements are quite important, and you shouldn’t hesitate to ask about any situation-specific, or general questions you have relative to the topic!

I love that you put the TLDR at the end!

 

[ReeferTCG]

Very nice! You’ve done some homework, I see!

Pro tip? When houses are being built, the plumber comes in first after it’s all framed out to plumb in all the gravity drains! Then, all the pressurized plumbing and electrical is added in around the drains afterwards!

This said, the gravity fed drains are the most important ones to keep as simple, straight-ish, downhill sloping runs! — I’d recommend prioritizing drains first, then plumbing the pressurized returns around them!

— I find that it’s wise to install a union on each drain immediately after the bulkhead fitting, these unions can be ordered with male pipe threads on one side and a socket on the other side, as such:

This allows you to combine each union and bulkhead fitting into one subassembly of only two components, as seen here:

Note the union on each end of each drain so each pipe can be quickly removed as needed… the union at each bulkhead also serves to prevent the bulkhead from starting to spin loose if you tweak the plumbing, instead spinning at the union!

As you can also see above, returns are done last, and plumbed in 3D around the drains, because they’re pressurized, and much more tolerant of direction changes/etc!

Thank you so much for the feedback I see you have the whole drain pipes at an angle saving 1 45 elbow. Ill see if it works for me.

 

[ReeferTCG]

Something that is worth considering is using gate valves for all valves, especially on the manifold.


I love that you put the TLDR at the end!

Yeahh still have to think about the manifold thing…