Brute Trash Can Cord Seal

ChiReefGuy3

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For those of you using brute trash cans for longer term saltwater storage (a month or so), how do you run heater/powerhead cords out of it without creating a hole for evaporation? Do you just close the lid over them? Seal the hole around the cord with something? Ect…
 

Eagle_Steve

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For those of you using brute trash cans for longer term saltwater storage (a month or so), how do you run heater/powerhead cords out of it without creating a hole for evaporation? Do you just close the lid over them? Seal the hole around the cord with something? Ect…
I made a small cutout at the top of the cans for the cords. Once the lid is on it, I have no issue with evap. Being as the center of the lid is a low spot in the lid, almost all if not all condensation accumlates there. I just be sure to lift the lid and allow what little is there to drain off the lid and back into the can.
 

zoomonster

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I only mix for a day inside with heater, airline and powerhead, for a 40g water change and don't worry about a lid. Now outside one is an ATO container and the lid is just snapped over the power and water line from Tunze no kink no problem.
 

aaron186

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Does anyone have a solution for the cords if I didn’t want to snap the lid over the cords? I have some Neptune Apex water level sensors and solenoids/float valves in my brute so the water level never goes up the rim (hopefully). I was going to run the cables through a small hole/bulk head near the rim.
 

Eagle_Steve

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Does anyone have a solution for the cords if I didn’t want to snap the lid over the cords? I have some Neptune Apex water level sensors and solenoids/float valves in my brute so the water level never goes up the rim (hopefully). I was going to run the cables through a small hole/bulk head near the rim.
I recently built a mixing station for a friend and he wanted it to be completely sealed. Well, as best as possible.

I used some left over yak attack thru hull grommets. I have them on my fishing yaks, so know they do not rust in SW. You could also use some cable grommets from Graybar or one of the big box stores. Just have to make sure big enough for end to fit through hole of grommet.
 

aaron186

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I recently built a mixing station for a friend and he wanted it to be completely sealed. Well, as best as possible.

I used some left over yak attack thru hull grommets. I have them on my fishing yaks, so know they do not rust in SW. You could also use some cable grommets from Graybar or one of the big box stores. Just have to make sure big enough for end to fit through hole of grommet.
How big of a hole did you need to make for the grommet? Those look good but might be too large
 

GarrettT

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Does anyone have a solution for the cords if I didn’t want to snap the lid over the cords? I have some Neptune Apex water level sensors and solenoids/float valves in my brute so the water level never goes up the rim (hopefully). I was going to run the cables through a small hole/bulk head near the rim.
I used a bulkhead, ran cords through it, then put a pvc cap “slip not thread” over it with a small cut out on the side same size as the cord.
 

Eagle_Steve

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How big of a hole did you need to make for the grommet? Those look good but might be too large
depends on which ones you get. They come in all sizes from a 1/2" hole to a 2" hole. 1/2" hole will will fit the large live scope cable for the transducer, which is a little thicker than a 300w heater cable. It would not fit the plug end though. Just the cable. Almost all grommets for kayaks come with different size inserts to account for small cable with large end or just the cable. Cable grommets from a box box home improvement store or Graybar also do the same, but you have to get the correct insert when you get the grommet.
 

GARRIGA

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Does stored salt water actually need a heater and flow? Never stored so I’m curious vs just warming it up and then using a powerhead before usage
 
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Eagle_Steve

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Does stored salt water actually need a heater and flow? Never stored so I’m curious vs just warning it up and then using a powerhead before usage
I do not think it does. I have my brute cans setup with just a notch at the top, the lid on them, and only heat up and mix for a bit before use. No issues in the year and years I have been doing this. I think the SW in there is right at a month old and about to get used for a WC this weekend lol.
 

srobertb

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For those of you using brute trash cans for longer term saltwater storage (a month or so), how do you run heater/powerhead cords out of it without creating a hole for evaporation? Do you just close the lid over them? Seal the hole around the cord with something? Ect…
I have a 50 gallon drum. It’s got a 4x4 square cutout on the top so I could get a pump in there + an LLS sensor. 80% of the time I forget to throw a towel over it.

Being in an 80 degree garage, with a pump running 4 hours a day in there, after 30 days it maybe goes from 1.026 to 1.027 (maybe).

I wouldn’t worry about the cord.
 

GarrettT

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How big of a hole did you need to make for the grommet? Those look good but might be too large
The prongs are what occupy such a large hole. Only way around it would be to slice the cord, slip it through, and then reattach the prong to cord through a junction box making sure the cords are securely clamped.

IMG_8435.jpeg
 

GARRIGA

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I do not think it does. I have my brute cans setup with just a notch at the top, the lid on them, and only heat up and mix for a bit before use. No issues in the year and years I have been doing this. I think the SW in there is right at a month old and about to get used for a WC this weekend lol.
Why I asked. Seemed like too much effort although I grasp those with probiotics or what not additives don’t age well yet I’m sure we aren’t talking about those. Sometimes KISS best approach.
 
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