Burritos 40 breeder build: doing it slow...maybe

[Burrito]

so my other build thread is a IM 30L and was converted to a 100G INT tank, i still have to create that build/transfer another day.

my DT tank is doing well and i've accumulated enough stuff through, buying something i didn't need, local deals, etc. my last deal i got a 40 breeder, stand, hood, pumps, and other goodies for almost nothing. Thats where this build begins.

I want to keep this tank in the spirit of the current @Bulk Reef Supply & @wwt series of videos and serve as a sps growth focused tank, any possibly somewhere to move my anemones that keep splitting (i know, opposite tank types)

below is the tank after i cleaned it up.

lights will be a 36" aquatic life hybrid fixture, bulbs undecided but probably 2 blue + and 2 coral +
LEDS will be 2 Radions xr15 pro g4
I will either fit both lights into the hood or just suspend the light fixture instead.

The eshopps s-200 has been sitting idle for a while and have to figure out whats wrong with the pump, i think its the impeller

BRS has a super sale on these triton sumps and after weighing the cost of building my own and time, i went with this even though i do not plan on doing triton.

i ordered a modular marine 1600gph overflow

my first question is on drilling this properly. i've read alot on how so i think i'm good there but what size holes? i will be using either a cor 20 or vectra m1 return pump. the overflow has 3 1" drains

should i drill the return lines for 3/4" like most tanks are, and should i do 1 or 2 return lines, or should i drill the return for the native output of the return pumps 1.25" (is this overkill?)

from my last build i have a bunch of random plumbing pieces, will get the rest as needed.

lastly, this will be bare bottom, should i put anything on the glass or leave it as it? i planned on painting the back of the tank black with plastidip, should i do the bottom (outside) at the same time or lay something on it instead?

View attachment 977477

more to come

 

[Captain Quint]

Very nice and sleek looking.

Thank you for sharing and cannot wait to see more pics.

 

[NY_Caveman]

so my other build thread is a IM 30L and was converted to a 100G INT tank, i still have to create that build/transfer another day.

my DT tank is doing well and i've accumulated enough stuff through, buying something i didn't need, local deals, etc. my last deal i got a 40 breeder, stand, hood, pumps, and other goodies for almost nothing. Thats where this build begins.

I want to keep this tank in the spirit of the current @Bulk Reef Supply & @wwt series of videos and serve as a sps growth focused tank, any possibly somewhere to move my anemones that keep splitting (i know, opposite tank types)

below is the tank after i cleaned it up.

lights will be a 36" aquatic life hybrid fixture, bulbs undecided but probably 2 blue + and 2 coral +
LEDS will be 2 Radions xr15 pro g4
I will either fit both lights into the hood or just suspend the light fixture instead.

The eshopps s-200 has been sitting idle for a while and have to figure out whats wrong with the pump, i think its the impeller

BRS has a super sale on these triton sumps and after weighing the cost of building my own and time, i went with this even though i do not plan on doing triton.

i ordered a modular marine 1600gph overflow

my first question is on drilling this properly. i've read alot on how so i think i'm good there but what size holes? i will be using either a cor 20 or vectra m1 return pump. the overflow has 3 1" drains

should i drill the return lines for 3/4" like most tanks are, and should i do 1 or 2 return lines, or should i drill the return for the native output of the return pumps 1.25" (is this overkill?)

from my last build i have a bunch of random plumbing pieces, will get the rest as needed.

lastly, this will be bare bottom, should i put anything on the glass or leave it as it? i planned on painting the back of the tank black with plastidip, should i do the bottom (outside) at the same time or lay something on it instead?

View attachment 977477

more to come

Nice start. I used black Starboard on mine, but frankly it will be covered in coralline algae soon enough anyway.

 

[Burrito]

Yeah! It’s here. I have a drill press arriving tomorrow.

What size return should I use?
Drains are 3 1” drains 1600gph

Return pump is a cor20 with a 1.25 native outlet.

Should I do the normal 3/4” return? 2 of them maybe or upsize to a 1” return?

 

[count krunk]

I would reduce the pipe size of your return to 3/4". It is only 2000 gph correct?

If you can, I would up that to 4000 gph or more

 

[Burrito]

well given how much neptune charges for the union/collars of their cor 20 (i used it before in another plumbing job) i've decided to use the bottom bspp 1.25 union of the cor which mates to the "top" of a npt union, then reduce to 1" until i hit the locline and will reduce to .75 since i wasnt aware thats the biggest size locline comes in

also, going to scrap the stand that i got in the local deal above and build and 8020 stand.

 

[Burrito]

Update! Scrapped the wood stand. Ordered and built an 8020 stand. Shoutout to @Caravanshaka for design help.

Parts

Built

Still need to attach the light and put on finishing caps and plywood base and top.

 

[Sod Buster]

Nice stand! If you are going to sheath it with something, look into these corners to slide in before you get it built. It has a 1/4" threaded hole for an Allen bolt in the corners for a fastener, or most epoxy magnets to them & countersink the other magnet in the panel. They come in aluminum also. This part # is for the 1.5 tubes.

 

[Burrito]

Nice stand! If you are going to sheath it with something, look into these corners to slide in before you get it built. It has a 1/4" threaded hole for an Allen bolt in the corners for a fastener, or most epoxy magnets to them & countersink the other magnet in the panel. They come in aluminum also. This part # is for the 1.5 tubes.

I like the idea but had the beams counterbored already for the anchors I’m using.

That said how would you all go about adding the simplest panel to the 3 sides. Back can stay opened. It’s in my basement so noise isn’t a concern, i mainly want to keep any fuge light spillover contained so the fish sleepy in darkness and not pink lights. Might also help with evaporation and temp Control.

I was thinking some foam board or lightweight material and some magnets. Any suggestions on material and how to mount it?

Have to shorten my light cord too...

 

[Caravanshaka]

Stand looks great! nice job!

I just finished mine up for my frag tank as well, it's amazing how solid these things are with the right hardware.

as for the panels, I would consider magnets and these:
https://www.tnutz.com/product/ac-015-e-nylon-14-turn-panel-mount-block/

for panels, some expanded foam I think they call it? It's like a solid dense hard foam board that isn't too expensive, but is really lightweight and can look pretty good.

 

[Caravanshaka]

Yeah! It’s here. I have a drill press arriving tomorrow.

What size return should I use?
Drains are 3 1” drains 1600gph

Return pump is a cor20 with a 1.25 native outlet.

Should I do the normal 3/4” return? 2 of them maybe or upsize to a 1” return?

I'm using the same overflow. I would suggest getting a sheet gasket for between the outside box and the tank, as water could technically leak through the threads of the back side of the bulkhead. It's good peace of mind! I used the 1/16" thick, 12" x 24" of:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076DMLWC3/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On the return, using a COR20, I would suggest 1". I went 3/4" and regret not going bigger. The new frag tank also has a COR20 and will be getting 1" return plumbing.

 

[Sod Buster]

Magnets are easiest. The 2 ends though you can just slide the pieces into the 1/4 groove of the tubing with the top off. Magnets if you need to undress all sides for some reason. I have a hinged door in the front & the side panels built into the grove. That limits me to just the front for sump work. That is sometimes frustrating. Looking nice.

 

[Burrito]

Stand looks great! nice job!

I just finished mine up for my frag tank as well, it's amazing how solid these things are with the right hardware.

as for the panels, I would consider magnets and these:
https://www.tnutz.com/product/ac-015-e-nylon-14-turn-panel-mount-block/

for panels, some expanded foam I think they call it? It's like a solid dense hard foam board that isn't too expensive, but is really lightweight and can look pretty good.

How about these magnets, seems like I can pop one of these on each upper corner and glue some magnets to some foam board or cheap acrylic.

If anyone knows a good source for this(the panels)....?

I'm using the same overflow. I would suggest getting a sheet gasket for between the outside box and the tank, as water could technically leak through the threads of the back side of the bulkhead. It's good peace of mind! I used the 1/16" thick, 12" x 24" of:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076DMLWC3/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On the return, using a COR20, I would suggest 1". I went 3/4" and regret not going bigger. The new frag tank also has a COR20 and will be getting 1" return plumbing.

For the overflow. Mine came with 2 sets of gaskets, did yours not or would you replace the ones between tank and overflow with what you linked?

As for the return (I haven’t drilled yet), I was going to plumb 1” until the locline and then reduce, Since there is no 1” locline. would you just drill for a 1” bulkhead and hardplumb a 90 or 45 for the water to exit out of?

 

[Caravanshaka]

How about these magnets, seems like I can pop one of these on each upper corner and glue some magnets to some foam board or cheap acrylic.

If anyone knows a good source for this(the panels)....?

For the overflow. Mine came with 2 sets of gaskets, did yours not or would you replace the ones between tank and overflow with what you linked?

As for the return (I haven’t drilled yet), I was going to plumb 1” until the locline and then reduce, Since there is no 1” locline. would you just drill for a 1” bulkhead and hardplumb a 90 or 45 for the water to exit out of?

For something really light, those magnets may be a good choice. I don't think they will hold up much weight though.

I only got 1 set of gaskets. I gave Brian at MM the feedback that it should at least come with 2 sets and he started including them after that. I think the sheet gaskets helps spread the pressure out across the whole box, but another set of round gaskets should seal it just fine.

I think the 1" up to the tank will be good, then you can finish with 3/4" locline.

 

[Sod Buster]

The 80/20 catalog has many colors of the plastic sheeting. I will try and find the old thread that discussed the magnets. The guy used some funky kitchen backsplash for his sides.

 

[JoshH]

Digging the build so far, I might have missed it but are you planning on any fish for this tank or will it be coral only??

 

[Burrito]

Digging the build so far, I might have missed it but are you planning on any fish for this tank or will it be coral only??

Well the initial idea for setting up another tank was for anemone only but I think it might be an sps dominate reef. Well see how things progress. My starboard came in. Fits perfect! Pic to come

 

[Sod Buster]

A don't have a screenshot of the thread I remembered, but K Steven can help with the magnets.

 

[Burrito]

Ugh. Drilled the tank today, first hole when perfect, second hole, I put too much pressure on my hand that was stablizing the drill press and sent a crack across the whole pane of glass. ;(

At least petco still has breeders on sale for $50. Maybe I’ll drill a few more holes in the broken tank before round 2

 

[Sod Buster]

Well you had the guts to try it. A couple more practice holes and you'll have a good feel for it.