Check values stammering. Sump overflow. UGENT!!

[Reefering1]

Sorry if I missed it, can you post a pic of uv and its plumbing? I think that if the pipe went up, above the unit, then down to pump and you implement a syphon break- the pipes will drain but leave the UV full(reducing backflow to sump)

 

[Miami Reef]

Sorry if I missed it, can you post a pic of uv and its plumbing? I think that if the pipe went up, above the unit, then down to pump and you implement a syphon break- the pipes will drain but leave the UV full(reducing backflow to sump)

Does the video I posted help?

 

[Reefering1]

This is the PVC line of pump #2 which includes the giant UV that holds more water than a sperm whale.

would a 55g tank fit in there if not for the 29g ato reservoir?

 

[Reefering1]

Does the video I posted help?

I think so.. so the uv's plumbing is behind the ato tank?

 

[Miami Reef]

would a 55g tank fit in there if not for the 29g ato reservoir?

A 29 gal was the largest I could fit.

I think so.. so the uv's plumbing is behind the ato tank?

Yes.

 

[Miami Reef]

I think if I remove the entire pump #2 and only rely on the first pump, my sump can fit the extra water.

I can remove the UV (which I don’t even use) and I can close off the entire line with the ball valve.

Does that sound like a good idea?

?

 

[Garf]

Should I do it now? I don’t know what I should do.

In my tank I would probably have a pump from sump running at reduced flow, just to keep things ticking over if the main pump failed, but I haven't. In your tank with dual returns I would probably just turn them both down and ditch the extra sump water as mentioned before. Syphon breaks are a must, in display submerged lines

 

[Reefering1]

I wouldn't rush into removing the 2nd return pump. You did it that way for a reason and it works well. Slowing turnover on a successful system may have unexpected consequences, especially just to gain a couple gallons of capacity. I believe there is a simple solution here, a tweak to plumbing.. change the valves and take your time thinking this through. Don't rush. Make the syphon break work is 1st order of priority. If you can lower the normal water level in sump, do it for piece of mind. I'm sure the collective here will find the answer. I think I have a idea, I'll review pics/ you'r build before presenting it

 

[Miami Reef]

@a.t.t.r

I did a small experiment.

I closed both return pumps and I lifted the return loc lines completely out of the water to break the siphon.

Then I unscrewed the check valves once the siphon was broken to allow all the water to flow into the sump

See how much space remains in the sump? Does that mean if I follow your advice about breaking the siphon by drilling the holes and adding the vinyl tubing, then I can remove the check valves and never worry about a flood?

Was the solution really that simple??!

I feel like it’s too good to be true.

 

[Garf]

Was the solution really that simple??!

Could be, you got a drill?

 

[Miami Reef]

Could be, you got a drill?

Of course. I already drilled the holes a few days ago. Let me run to the hardware store and get the vinyl tubing to make the return tube higher than the tank water level.

 

[Garf]

Of course. I already drilled the holes a few days ago. Let me run to the hardware store and get the vinyl tubing to make the return tube higher than the tank water level.

I must have missed that bit. What's the tubing for? A little hole in the submerged lines will spew a little water out, but that's good. It shows you they are still clear.

 

[Miami Reef]

I must have missed that bit. What's the tubing for? A little hole in the submerged lines will spew a little water out, but that's good. It shows you they are still clear.

On the left is what you currently have on the right is what you need, you need to bring the line ABOVE the water level before going back down. Now this will still create a siphon so you have two options. Drill a small hole (aiming down) at a point ABOVE or AT the water level on the pipe OR raise your flex lines so they are right at the surface and suck air the second power cuts off(I would do both) . Sadly just raising the flex tube above the water line is not 100 percent of a replacement for a solid line above water level as those flex lines can slowly leak.

 

[gbroadbridge]

@a.t.t.r

I did a small experiment.

I closed both return pumps and I lifted the return loc lines completely out of the water to break the sipho



Then I unscrewed the check valves once the siphon was broken to allow all the water to flow into the sump


See how much space remains in the sump? Does that mean if I follow your advice about breaking the siphon by drilling the holes and adding the vinyl tubing, then I can remove the check valves and never worry about a flood?

Was the solution really that simple??!

I feel like it’s too good to be true.

How long did you leave the pumps off?

I'd test by leaving it off for 20 mins or so to make sure everything that is going to drain has drained.

That's about the water level in my sump if I have a total power failure and everything has settled.

 

[Garf]

Ok, thought you had locline on these that you could drill.

 

[Miami Reef]

Ok, thought you had locline on these that you could drill.

I do have loclines and I already drilled them.

 

[Reefering1]

@a.t.t.r

I did a small experiment.

I closed both return pumps and I lifted the return loc lines completely out of the water to break the siphon.

Then I unscrewed the check valves once the siphon was broken to allow all the water to flow into the sump

See how much space remains in the sump? Does that mean if I follow your advice about breaking the siphon by drilling the holes and adding the vinyl tubing, then I can remove the check valves and never worry about a flood?

Was the solution really that simple??!

I feel like it’s too good to be true.

There you go, now we're getting somewhere!! Now With the pumps off, and siphons broke(sump level stabilized), place the return outlets on top the surface of water. Once the pumps are running, water level will rise, covering outlets(some adjustments may be required). How does it operate like that? Does it suck air into display, does it stop backflow at a comfortable level in sump?

 

[Garf]

I do have loclines and I already drilled them.

Bigger holes? Too smaller hole will just venturi air into the sump with water. 6mm, or 1/4 inch

 

[Garf]

For what it's worth locline used to be a major way of inducing in tank flow, but these days with fabulous water movement devices I question it's use. I know some folks with packed systems still like them to provide specialised flow to certain areas, but for most of us?

 

[a.t.t.r]

Bigger holes? Too smaller hole will just venturi air into the sump with water. 6mm, or 1/4 inch

Actually with the combo of a small hole and the reduced flow cause by the check valve I think the siphon break will work fine. I actually wouldn’t remove the check valves. I just wouldn’t rely on them to do anything more than slow the water.

Once you get the majority of the water to stop flowing and your sump can handle it for like half an hour or so then it’s time to move onto the next step which is to fix any little trickle leaks but worry about that later. Also, how often do you really lose power for extended time periods where you can’t manually intervene.