Chrysophytes?! Help me cure it?

reeferfoxx

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Chrysophyta (golden-brown algae)
The Chrysophyta are the golden-brown algae and diatoms, which respectively account for 1,100 and 40,000-100,000 species of unicellular algae. These algae occur in both marine and fresh waters, although most species are marine. The cell walls of golden-brown algae and diatoms are made of cellulose and pectic materials, a type of hemicellulose. In the diatoms especially, the cell wall is heavily impregnated with silica and is therefore quite rigid and resistant to decay. These algae store energy as a carbohydrate called leucosin, and also in oil droplets. The golden-brown algae achieve locomotion using one to two flagellae. The photosynthetic pigments of these algae are chlorophylls a and c, and the accessory pigments are carotenoids and xanthophylls, including a specialized pigment known as fucoxanthin.

Read more: Algae - Algae And Their Characteristics, Types Of Algae, Ecological Relationships, Factors Limiting The Productivity Of Algae - Species, Brown, Green, and Pigments - JRank Articles http://science.jrank.org/pages/205/Algae.html#ixzz4J1v9D5IA

The Beginning...
Start.jpg mar012016.jpg

JBJ Rimless 30 gallon. The tank was erected on Feb 1st 2016. The two photos above are March 1st 2016.

Diatoms, CUC, Coral

Not long into March did diatoms bloom. Additional clean up crew was added. 3 Cerith, 3 Astrea, 2 Nassarius, 2 Turbos. A few days later I added 3 coral. 2 types of zoanthid and 1 acan.

march1.jpg
march2.jpg march3.jpg

Let's fast forward a month and discuss inhabitants.

This tank was started with the "BRS method" or dry rock and bottle bacteria. Everything was planned and executed properly. The first 3 days after the tank was started and bacteria added, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate tests were preformed. All tests were good with no detection of ammonia or nitrates. As suggested by BRS a fish was added. I chose an Azure Damsel that had been observed for more than 4 weeks at a local fish store. The fish was healthy and active. He remained in this tank for exactly 28 days. Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate never spiked.

First month:
Azure Damsel

The Damsel was returned and I immediately added my existing live stock from my previous tank. At this time 2 clownfish were introduced. A month later a Firefish was introduced. Following was my pistol shrimp and goby pair. Last but not least, the cleaner shrimp was added. This took a total of 3 months to get that list moved over.

Four Months Later:
Azure Damsel(removed)
Clownfish x2
Firefish
Hi-fin Goby
Pistol Shrimp

Fifth Month:

Firefish was found dead inside shrimp and goby cave. It was believed the firefish had a hard time establishing itself a home. Often times darting itself quickly into the shrimp and goby cave. This accident was witnessed more than once, even though the firefish had it's own cave. I believe the shrimp got the best of him out of being frightened. After 3 days of no signs of firefish, a large rock was removed to find the skeleton and partial face of the firefish.

June1.jpg

A week later Phosphates spiked and 2 turbos died. not sure if it was related or lack of food for turbos. 2 weeks after that phosphates peaked at 0.21ppm. Cyano quickly exposed itself.

Identification Period via R2R

The mulm, sludge, slime, slop, whatever you want to call it began to progress. I decided to get on R2R to get a positive ID and go from there. Diatoms, Calothrix, Dino, Cyano, Nutrient mulm and now Chrysophytes have been floating around. Quickly more pictures and videos have been uploaded.



June2.jpg

The pictures just weren't telling enough so on to the videos...
June

September
Videos weren't enough. On to the microscope!

Provided by @twilliard and @Russ265



Things I've tried...

  • H2O2 dosing 1ml/10g and 1ml/8g (14 days)
  • Weekly 25%-30% WC
  • MetroPlex
  • Manual Removal via toothbrush and turkey baster filtered by filter floss
  • Increased clean up crew
  • Reduced lighting from 8 hours to 4 hours a day
  • GFO to reduce PO4 (only 28 hours)
  • Dr. Tims Waste-Away 14 days (might have made it worse)
  • Seeded micro fauna (brittle starfish, spaghetti worms, aphipods)
  • Dosed Stability for 7 days (no change)
  • Yeast (did nothing)
NO3 had been undetectable for some time. I now dose KNO3 to maintain NO3 2-3ppm. Phosphates are now maintained at 0.01ppm.

The tank today September 1st

20160819_120351.jpg
(actually this was taken 14 days ago, not much different though)

Todays water parameters

SG: 1.026
pH: 8.4
Cal: 450
Alk: 8.5 - 8.7dKH
Mag: 1610(bad bucket of TMPR)
PO4: 0.02ppm
NO3: 2ppm
Amo: 0
Nitrite: 0
Temp: Somewhere between 76F and 81F deg. Four thermometers all with different readings.
Finnex heater set at 79 deg.

Last water change was 9 days ago. 10% WC performed at 3 gallons.

Tank peripherals

JBJ RL 30
Aquamaxx HOB-1
Chinese 165w WIFI LED
2x Jebao RW-4 with Aqualink S1 controller
2x Finnex 100w heaters with controllers
Jebao DC3000 return pump w/ controller
Hydor Smart ATO w/ Avast peristaltic pump and reservoir

Dosing

3ml KNO3 'stump remover' once every 3 days

Filtration

Stock media basket
Sponge
Matrix
Skimmer


Conclusion

I need a cure. The tank is 8 months old now. The golden algae is still thriving. I apologize if I missed some information. Please ask me anything.

I want to give thanks to @twilliard , @brandon429 , @Russ265 , @saltyfilmfolks and anyone else that I've forgotten.
 
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brandon429

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that's so well arranged wow

I will link this to the last page of our peroxide thread not for required peroxide purposes, but because this is a thorough review w pics and vid of a pretty neat/rare/not totally devastating invader, really well done. id take some chry challenges badly over an ostreopsis dinos challenge lightly. I recall zero tank losses to chrysophytes but plenty of annoyances.

our algae correction threads still apply here, chry is a requisite hitchhiker it has no other vectors other than direct (sometimes microbial) transfers of marine materials among tanks, its not nutrient driven explosion, its import driven. ergo, if its fully physically removed it cannot come back until next non quarantine import...ultra violet light is indicated for fighting these guys, they have a pelagic phase where there are motile (intercept point)

UV wont strip them off the rocks, but it will burn the floaters from us stripping them off the rocks. if your chry was mine id simply blast clean the whole tank out and maybe hook up a pond sterilizer for a month then take it off, just my way. im sure some animal or chem combo can zap them too.
 
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reeferfoxx

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that's so well arranged wow

I will link this to the last page of our peroxide thread not for required peroxide purposes, but because this is a thorough review w pics and vid of a pretty neat/rare/not totally devastating invader, really well done. id take some chry challenges badly over an ostreopsis dinos challenge lightly. I recall zero tank losses to chrysophytes but plenty of annoyances.

our algae correction threads still apply here, chry is a requisite hitchhiker it has no other vectors other than direct (sometimes microbial) transfers of marine materials among tanks, its not nutrient driven explosion, its import driven. ergo, if its fully physically removed it cannot come back until next non quarantine import...ultra violet light is indicated for fighting these guys, they have a pelagic phase where there are motile (intercept point)

UV wont strip them off the rocks, but it will burn the floaters from us stripping them off the rocks. if your chry was mine id simply blast clean the whole tank out and maybe hook up a pond sterilizer for a month then take it off, just my way. im sure some animal or chem combo can zap them too.
I do have a UV sterilizer somewhere in my closet. I used it once for a freshwater tank. Should I try and run it?
 

brandon429

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Yes for sure only because it will be harmless to try and depending on size and flow it's a real kicker. When I had a 75 gallon tank I ran a 10000 gallon pond sterilizer on it 24/7 as a total cheat
 
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reeferfoxx

reeferfoxx

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Yes for sure only because it will be harmless to try and depending on size and flow it's a real kicker. When I had a 75 gallon tank I ran a 10000 gallon pond sterilizer on it 24/7 as a total cheat
hmm ok. Mine is only a 9 watt UV?
 

saltyfilmfolks

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GREAT write Up!

So Being as I guess I dont have enough to do and like to avoid house work, heres what I found.
Man Theres a lotta Chrysto's. And I have no Idea if it is chrysto, im leaning away from it as they are reported to be in tight structures under a micrscope (crysto= the colonists). But I am a complete Micro newb. But few to none of the other examples of confirmed or semi confirmed cases have bubbles.:confused:
This guy. Used a combo of super cleaning and GFO. GFO to bind both Po and silicates.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2439205

This is a scientific link that may help to ID the things.
https://taxonomic.aad.gov.au/?page_id=48

Another.
http://www.algaebase.org/contact/
Back when I had Jellyfish I reached out to a number of aquariums in the country and Australia and got a surprising amount of help. I still bump into the "jelly fish Guy" who works at the Scripps Institute at Aquatic Warehouse here in SD from time to time.


hmm ok. Mine is only a 9 watt UV?
lower flow longer exposure to uv.


#reefsquad Looking for clues or leads on ID and eradication. Ive seen this similar thing only a half dozen times here and there seems to be zero success.
@melev have you ever seen this sir.
 
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reeferfoxx

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GREAT write Up!

So Being as I guess I dont have enough to do and like to avoid house work, heres what I found.
Man Theres a lotta Chrysto's. And I have no Idea if it is chrysto, im leaning away from it as they are reported to be in tight structures under a micrscope (crysto= the colonists). But I am a complete Micro newb. But few to none of the other examples of confirmed or semi confirmed cases have bubbles.:confused:
This guy. Used a combo of super cleaning and GFO. GFO to bind both Po and silicates.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2439205

This is a scientific link that may help to ID the things.
https://taxonomic.aad.gov.au/?page_id=48

Another.
http://www.algaebase.org/contact/
Back when I had Jellyfish I reached out to a number of aquariums in the country and Australia and got a surprising amount of help. I still bump into the "jelly fish Guy" who works at the Scripps Institute at Aquatic Warehouse here in SD from time to time.


lower flow longer exposure to uv.


#reefsquad Looking for clues or leads on ID and eradication. Ive seen this similar thing only a half dozen times here and there seems to be zero success.
@melev have you ever seen this sir.
Most chry. descriptions i have read, shows that they are photosynthetic. The link you provided to the Chry. thread does show images with some bubbles. They are restricted to the base of the growth. Imagine a thinker slippery turf like algae at the base closest to the rock and then long white hairs growing off of it. The images I provided aren't showing the full length.

I used GFO to get PO4 under control. I wasn't sure if I should run it any longer as i didn't want to strip all nutrients from the water column. Mostly because coral are present. If i can do it safely, I will try it again? As far as I know, to silicates bind only with reactors or can I just throw a bag in?

Wish I had a silicate test kit...

Shopping list being created...
 

saltyfilmfolks

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Most chry. descriptions i have read, shows that they are photosynthetic. The link you provided to the Chry. thread does show images with some bubbles. They are restricted to the base of the growth. Imagine a thinker slippery turf like algae at the base closest to the rock and then long white hairs growing off of it. The images I provided aren't showing the full length.

I used GFO to get PO4 under control. I wasn't sure if I should run it any longer as i didn't want to strip all nutrients from the water column. Mostly because coral are present. If i can do it safely, I will try it again? As far as I know, to silicates bind only with reactors or can I just throw a bag in?

Wish I had a silicate test kit...

Shopping list being created...
yea go slow. Make a plan. These are just spitballing and food for thought.
It binds regardless. Its more efficient being tumbled or in higher flow.
I forgot this one. Its diatom related but has some insight to gfo and silicate removal. http://www.reefs.org/forums/topic13901.html
 
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reeferfoxx

reeferfoxx

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yea go slow. Make a plan. These are just spitballing and food for thought.
It binds regardless. Its more efficient being tumbled or in higher flow.
I forgot this one. Its diatom related but has some insight to gfo and silicate removal. http://www.reefs.org/forums/topic13901.html
I'll give GFO another shot. I can up my once a week reef-roids to every other day? I think that could help off set the lack of phosphates? Or at least keep some nutrients going. Should i up my NO3 of 2ppm to maybe 5ppm?
 
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melev

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I doubt nitrate would affect this golden stuff you are seeing. 0 - 5ppm won't make a difference; if you are maintaining it at 2ppm I'd stick with that. There is no benefit to having higher nitrate in your tank.

You mentioned higher Po4 at one point, and I'd attribute that to what is coming out of the dry rock. Your newest test results show that you've gotten that resolved. Nice job.

I would siphon out all of this that you can remove, using 3/8" tubing. This will limit how much water is being lost per session. You can do a section daily until you've removed 99% of it, manually.

Have you observed anything (hermits, snails) dying once they made contact with it?

Sorry you're going through all this crud since this hobby is supposed to be relaxing.
 

Sabellafella

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Chrysophyta (golden-brown algae)
The Chrysophyta are the golden-brown algae and diatoms, which respectively account for 1,100 and 40,000-100,000 species of unicellular algae. These algae occur in both marine and fresh waters, although most species are marine. The cell walls of golden-brown algae and diatoms are made of cellulose and pectic materials, a type of hemicellulose. In the diatoms especially, the cell wall is heavily impregnated with silica and is therefore quite rigid and resistant to decay. These algae store energy as a carbohydrate called leucosin, and also in oil droplets. The golden-brown algae achieve locomotion using one to two flagellae. The photosynthetic pigments of these algae are chlorophylls a and c, and the accessory pigments are carotenoids and xanthophylls, including a specialized pigment known as fucoxanthin.

Read more: Algae - Algae And Their Characteristics, Types Of Algae, Ecological Relationships, Factors Limiting The Productivity Of Algae - Species, Brown, Green, and Pigments - JRank Articles http://science.jrank.org/pages/205/Algae.html#ixzz4J1v9D5IA

The Beginning...
Start.jpg mar012016.jpg

JBJ Rimless 30 gallon. The tank was erected on Feb 1st 2016. The two photos above are March 1st 2016.

Diatoms, CUC, Coral

Not long into March did diatoms bloom. Additional clean up crew was added. 3 Cerith, 3 Astrea, 2 Nassarius, 2 Turbos. A few days later I added 3 coral. 2 types of zoanthid and 1 acan.

march1.jpg
march2.jpg march3.jpg

Let's fast forward a month and discuss inhabitants.

This tank was started with the "BRS method" or dry rock and bottle bacteria. Everything was planned and executed properly. The first 3 days after the tank was started and bacteria added, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate tests were preformed. All tests were good with no detection of ammonia or nitrates. As suggested by BRS a fish was added. I chose an Azure Damsel that had been observed for more than 4 weeks at a local fish store. The fish was healthy and active. He remained in this tank for exactly 28 days. Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate never spiked.

First month:
Azure Damsel

The Damsel was returned and I immediately added my existing live stock from my previous tank. At this time 2 clownfish were introduced. A month later a Firefish was introduced. Following was my pistol shrimp and goby pair. Last but not least, the cleaner shrimp was added. This took a total of 3 months to get that list moved over.

Four Months Later:
Azure Damsel(removed)
Clownfish x2
Firefish
Hi-fin Goby
Pistol Shrimp

Fifth Month:

Firefish was found dead inside shrimp and goby cave. It was believed the firefish had a hard time establishing itself a home. Often times darting itself quickly into the shrimp and goby cave. This accident was witnessed more than once, even though the firefish had it's own cave. I believe the shrimp got the best of him out of being frightened. After 3 days of no signs of firefish, a large rock was removed to find the skeleton and partial face of the firefish.

June1.jpg

A week later Phosphates spiked and 2 turbos died. not sure if it was related or lack of food for turbos. 2 weeks after that phosphates peaked at 0.21ppm. Cyano quickly exposed itself.

Identification Period via R2R

The mulm, sludge, slime, slop, whatever you want to call it began to progress. I decided to get on R2R to get a positive ID and go from there. Diatoms, Calothrix, Dino, Cyano, Nutrient mulm and now Chrysophytes have been floating around. Quickly more pictures and videos have been uploaded.



June2.jpg

The pictures just weren't telling enough so on to the videos...
June

September
Videos weren't enough. On to the microscope!

Provided by @twilliard and @Russ265



Things I've tried...

  • H2O2 dosing 1ml/10g and 1ml/8g (14 days)
  • Weekly 25%-30% WC
  • MetroPlex
  • Manual Removal via toothbrush and turkey baster filtered by filter floss
  • Increased clean up crew
  • Reduced lighting from 8 hours to 4 hours a day
  • GFO to reduce PO4 (only 28 hours)
  • Dr. Tims Waste-Away 14 days (might have made it worse)
  • Seeded micro fauna (brittle starfish, spaghetti worms, aphipods)
  • Dosed Stability for 7 days (no change)
  • Yeast (did nothing)
NO3 had been undetectable for some time. I now dose KNO3 to maintain NO3 2-3ppm. Phosphates are now maintained at 0.01ppm.

The tank today September 1st

20160819_120351.jpg
(actually this was taken 14 days ago, not much different though)

Todays water parameters

SG: 1.026
pH: 8.4
Cal: 450
Alk: 8.5 - 8.7dKH
Mag: 1610(bad bucket of TMPR)
PO4: 0.02ppm
NO3: 2ppm
Amo: 0
Nitrite: 0
Temp: Somewhere between 76F and 81F deg. Four thermometers all with different readings.
Finnex heater set at 79 deg.

Last water change was 9 days ago. 10% WC performed at 3 gallons.

Tank peripherals

JBJ RL 30
Aquamaxx HOB-1
Chinese 165w WIFI LED
2x Jebao RW-4 with Aqualink S1 controller
2x Finnex 100w heaters with controllers
Jebao DC3000 return pump w/ controller
Hydor Smart ATO w/ Avast peristaltic pump and reservoir

Dosing

3ml KNO3 'stump remover' once every 3 days

Filtration

Stock media basket
Sponge
Matrix
Skimmer


Conclusion

I need a cure. The tank is 8 months old now. The golden algae is still thriving. I apologize if I missed some information. Please ask me anything.

I want to give thanks to @twilliard , @brandon429 , @Russ265 , @saltyfilmfolks and anyone else that I've forgotten.
I had this nearly ruin my nano tank a little while back. The zebra margarita snails actually took it all down. I dont know if its still there. I still have all 5 zebra snails so im not very sure if there just keeping it tame, but i havnt seen the algae since the first month i added the snails. So maybe give them a shot? Its deffinitly worth a try
 
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reeferfoxx

reeferfoxx

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I doubt nitrate would affect this golden stuff you are seeing. 0 - 5ppm won't make a difference; if you are maintaining it at 2ppm I'd stick with that. There is no benefit to having higher nitrate in your tank.

You mentioned higher Po4 at one point, and I'd attribute that to what is coming out of the dry rock. Your newest test results show that you've gotten that resolved. Nice job.

I would siphon out all of this that you can remove, using 3/8" tubing. This will limit how much water is being lost per session. You can do a section daily until you've removed 99% of it, manually.

Have you observed anything (hermits, snails) dying once they made contact with it?

Sorry you're going through all this crud since this hobby is supposed to be relaxing.
Lately, I had been trying to do manual removal but not with any siphoning or the use of tubes. My method was to switch out the sponges for filter floss and rely on water circulation to filter the stuff out. I was doing this to reduce any water changing. I will siphon out from now on.

Hermits and Astreas do eat this stuff. Kind of last resort food, but they do munch on it. I have to keep the glass clean to keep them on the rocks, though. There is one spot on the right side rock that is bold on top. It was eaten off about a month or so ago and hasn't really had any regrowth. So I've been upping my CUC.

Thanks for the help. Eventually it will all work out. I hope... lol
 

Russ265

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this is just my experience. corraline has a way of telling unwanted algae to go away.

that isnt to mean that you are immune, just that it seems harder to establish on those rock from my experience.

only reason i mention it is because you have some super clean rocks. i did the same way as you, and corraline still spread.
 
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reeferfoxx

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I had this nearly ruin my nano tank a little while back. The zebra margarita snails actually took it all down. I dont know if its still there. I still have all 5 zebra snails so im not very sure if there just keeping it tame, but i havnt seen the algae since the first month i added the snails. So maybe give them a shot? Its deffinitly worth a try
I've been having a hard time keeping any turbos alive. I'll try and find some margaritas. Thanks for your sharing that!
 
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reeferfoxx

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this is just my experience. corraline has a way of telling unwanted algae to go away.

that isnt to mean that you are immune, just that it seems harder to establish on those rock from my experience.

only reason i mention it is because you have some super clean rocks. i did the same way as you, and corraline still spread.
Yes. The rock I used was BRS reef saver. Man made and clean. I tried to seed some coralline from my other tank. And actually I took a chunk of live rock(size of an ice cube) covered in purple coralline, scrapped it, let it settle and has been in the tank for 3 months. Never did get much coralline growth from it. There is some green coralline growing on the underneath areas. I always wondered if the high magnesium was inhibiting any coralline growth?
 

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Yes. The rock I used was BRS reef saver. Man made and clean. I tried to seed some coralline from my other tank. And actually I took a chunk of live rock(size of an ice cube) covered in purple coralline, scrapped it, let it settle and has been in the tank for 3 months. Never did get much coralline growth from it. There is some green coralline growing on the underneath areas. I always wondered if the high magnesium was inhibiting any coralline growth?
ive had 1500 mag and corraline still spread. phosphate or alk swings were what really ticked corraline off.

neglected water too.

i notice after keeping a 10% weekly wc that after the maintenance, i get bright orange corraline growth spot events the following morning during blue light ramp up.

also the length of time the seed rock has been in there will impact is as well.
 
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reeferfoxx

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ive had 1500 mag and corraline still spread. phosphate or alk swings were what really ticked corraline off.

neglected water too.

i notice after keeping a 10% weekly wc that after the maintenance, i get bright orange corraline growth spot events the following morning during blue light ramp up.

also the length of time the seed rock has been in there will impact is as well.
So far only phosphate swings here. Not enough coral uptake to throw anything else off.

I'm not trying to rush things but 8 months thus far, I should be in a better position. That and I wasn't planning on keeping my old tank as long as I have.
 

saltyfilmfolks

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I'm not trying to rush things but 8 months thus far, I should be in a better position.
Yea, but you wouldn't have learned as much. And we wouldn't have gotten to know you better.

That and I wasn't planning on keeping my old tank as long as I have.
And really. Whats one more tank;)

Great thread. I cant wait to see how this goes.

Thank's Yall.
 
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