Coral color, trace & lighting experiment pt2

[Doctorgori]

Another rambling thoughts and questions warning
…Some repeat info, fleshing this thing out loud….

I got these clear rulers and the plan is to drill holes in each then place the plug though it so there is some size reference in each photo. Not perfect as no telling which direction each frag will grow, but better than nothing


I also got two these indoor wi fi cams with sd cards. The plan is to snap a pic or daily for a week then post. I might swaps lights temporarily just to photograph the corals under the same lighting then swap them back to continue growing under whichever light they originally came from



Either way, experimentally I wanted to just feed the corals a minimum diet ( whatever a “minimum diet” is TBD)
…then JUST test the growth/coloration of the corals under different color temperatures ….

Later on I want to performance test the assorted color programs (Red Sea Colors) and any so called “pro biotics” or any product claiming to enhance coral color…how, who or why TBD as well as fleshing out test procedures et… Input appreciated, help needed

I have two brand new Trident units here or on order for monitoring but mostly for trend logging.
Later if the system stabilizes, Ill use the Trident and a brand new DOS unit for controlled dosing Tropic Marins Balling products.
PartC will obviously not be included but I have a Red Sea doser to deliver that per TM instructions … I dont fully trust the NP unit for anything but trend tracking….The plan is to back up Trident data with Hanna then triple check with Salifert for the more critical Alkalinity & Phosphate numbers…

I plan on dosing Lanthanum Chloride on the average of all three: Hanna, Trident and Salifert (or throw out the outlier) …
All target levels will be based on NSW or RHFs articles

I have a brand new DOS quiet drive for AWC, RHF did the work on this, so rather than reinvent Ill go with 2% daily and with 3ea 40 breeder in parallel, I can fill the system volume to exaclty 100g for easy calculations

On a side note, I wonder if you can use saltwater as a “additive” in Neptunes controlled dosing wizard? Basically asking if some param gets out of tolerance if the AWC along with the controlled dosing wizard can adjust how much water to remove and replace?
Just a thought…either way there will be a 32 gal brute full of instant ocean to bail out any whack levels

 

[MnFish1]

LONG, TL;DR warning (also some disorganized rambling)
But No, Ive been wrestling with similar thoughts:

One delay I have is writing this experiment is formulating a coherent organized outline and sequence for the experiments (thank you @taricha )

Another relevant write up is the equipment list, design and setup along with the day to day feeding/care/maintenance plan

Obviously I am not going to get away with not feeding anything, but in the same breath I fully expect algae issues in this unconventional setup, AND without CUC, this is going to be a problem….
… as will fueling the algae with 6500K lighting.

Fleshing this out for starters then,

1) What are the baseline nutritional needs of the corals besides the well established N & P levels? Put another way, is there a “all-in-one” compound we can add or what is the minimum combination of base “foods”? Can we get away with just adding Aminos and some phytoplankton blend? LOTS of products and claims out there, very little solid, precise info.

Do we know all the different pathways corals obtain extra nutrition outside of stealing from the host Zooxanthellae?

Since I personally don't know the prey capture methods or nutritional uptake methods for each type of coral in this study:

• I am limiting the coral genera in the experiment :
  • Acopora
  • Montipora
• Limiting the base nutritional input to just phytoplankton, either a blend or single species (TBD)
• “shotgunning” the nutrient delivery method (of the aforementioned phytoplankton blend via different trophic levels)
  • Direct live phytoplankton dosing
  • Direct feeding of copepods aquacultured by same phytoplankton blend
  • Indirect feeding by fish based CUC,
    • fish graze on pest algae (hopefully), and convert pest algae to feces
    • Fish directly predate on copepods
    • Fish fed gut loaded BBS (likewise aquacultured on same phytoplankton blend)

My thinking is limiting the variety of system nutritional input to phytoplankton and amino acids (at first anyway). Dose the amino acids per Tropic Marins instructions and in tandem maintain a robust copeopod population to “possibly” deliver the phyto by direct predation or indirectly via fish poop




I fully agree with all you said and have had almost identical concerns, thoughts and ideas… expanding on this
and the quote below, this entire experiment needs a more detailed fleshing out…consider this conversation more evolution than argument…



Yes and agree to everything you said,

adding phyto is hardly a panacea with unused F/2 and the expected free floating and pest algae being a MAJOR concern.

I actually was going to start off just dosing the basic ALK, Ca, Mg thing along with aminos and see how that goes…

The whole phyto thing was to use as much live feed as possible in the “bath”. I didn't want the variable of uneaten food, et. I figured if I could establish growth with just phytos and aminos I could begin evaluating just the lighting and later perhaps test the assorted products and claims later…
Still fleshing this out, opinions VERY welcome

Also I did not want to gum up my alk/ca data with a lot of added growing CUC shells to deal with..maybe a VERY minor overthink, but Im on the fence with this still. I’m going to try Limias and see if they can manage algae a lil better amongst the eggcrate and acros. Freshwater fish aren't the best algae eaters but these are a saline tolerant/adapted species. I will see how it goes and/or if this species is the right choice… I did not want to use marine sourced fish as I sorta want to limit pest, parasites and any marine nasties into the system.

• I have twin Tunze refugium lights to power a macro reactor. not sure how this will affect trace elements or any bacterial variables. I am pretty certain a growing ball of chaeto will essentially be a nitrification area anyway. I just want to really limit porous surfaces and all the bacteria hub bub as a major influence/variable….
• As mentioned I have a 55W in line UV for the inevitable algae/bacterial bloom
• I have a schedule controllable/ DC Skimmer and pump for air exchange and to deliver Lanthanum chloride (at a scheduled time) if necessary
• The phyto is also on a dose pump for scheduled delivery (if we choose), UV can also be scheduled on/off to avoid interference

Again pardon the ramble, just thoughts to help you help me flesh this out …
Appreciate ANY input

One way to frame your thoughts is reading the sticky at the top of the page - which explains how to design an experiment!

 

[Doctorgori]

One way to frame your thoughts is reading the sticky at the top of the page - which explains how to design an experiment!

Thank you: yes I plan on it, I’m very premature here but when I saw @taricha thread I immediately wanted to post this one before that one got too deep. Mine has some overlap hence the enthusiasm

 

[Doctorgori]

I should have added how un qualified I am to even write up a good experiment in the required format. I should also emphasize I’m not certain even 1/2 of this will work.

Not to repeat myself but put another way; I came in here prematurely because after seeing

A very similar experiment

My qualifications may be short and my experiment might be duplicate. Pardon the prematurity, I am looking for input and the other forums were not a good fit

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Mitras Coral Pop

And Mitras Sky White
View attachment 3907075
At first I wanted to find a LED with a broad sorta flat specral range similar to a ole skool 6500K MH…sorta a no peaks and valleys spread so the corals could pick and choose whatever to feed on, that way Im not introducing any preconceived biases on Chlorophyll A or theories on red light inhibition or whatever ..

I got side tracked on CRI for a second until bailed out by Oreo or Bean or someone like that (I started a thread, Ill fo look for it) …anyway, I got a TON of help from @oreo54 and will absolutely follow up with him on this…

At any rate it was a pipe dream to find or make a LED unit to duplicate anything close to a sunlight spectrum or anything close to imitate a Iwasaki 6500 without some serious Oreo customization..beyond my military grade slob a glob soldering skills

I settled on a Mitras bar…blame RHF for that suggestion …just got the invoice from GHL a few minutes ago..both units are in the mail supposedly

This whole exercise was driven by those ugly brown corals I used to keep in the 90’s…they grew but I always wondered if the colors were fixed in response to a suntan effect or was it just the 5500 lighting was not providing any inflorescence for lack of blue band energy …( pardon my spelling and lack of technical vernacular, its so bad my Terrance Howard Grammarly add on isnt working)

I truly want to see if there is something to providing a broad spectrum (from UV and out into the reds and IR);or if its just the imbedded spectrum already in those old MH ….

Is that the sky white spectrum? Looks different. Sky white is:

https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/products/ghl-illumination/mitras-lightbar-3/

 

[Doctorgori]

Is that the sky white spectrum? Looks different. Sky white is:

https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/products/ghl-illumination/mitras-lightbar-3/

I remember that chart also …
Maybe I might have cut n pasted the wrong one …
thanks Randy

Maybe I need to take time, go back and redux this thing, @taricha ’s thread has both inspired me and demonstrated some shortfalls :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:

 

[Reefering1]

Just to add to the thought process, I would consider weighing the frags to measure growth(vs physically measuring dimensions).

 

[taricha]

1) What are the baseline nutritional needs of the corals besides the well established N & P levels? Put another way, is there a “all-in-one” compound we can add or what is the minimum combination of base “foods”? Can we get away with just adding Aminos and some phytoplankton blend? LOTS of products and claims out there, very little solid, precise info.

Thinking about the minimum you can get away with, check this paper.
https://www.nature.com/articles/s41586-023-06442-5#MOESM1
Corals (most typical in the hobby) were grown with no nutrients or with NO3 +PO4 and that's it. The water was essentially stripped of all else.

"Temperatures (~27 °C) and salinity (~33 practical salinity units (psu)) in the experimental aquaria were monitored regularly and kept constant during long-term culture and experimentation. Aquaria were illuminated by metal halide lamps (Aqualine 10,000, Aqua Medic), operated on a 12-h light/dark cycle, exposing the corals to a light intensity of ~105 µmol m−2 s−1. Turbulent flow was generated using a Turbelle Nanostream 6045 (Tunze), operated at a flow rate of 4,500 l h−1. Corals were kept in nutrient-replete conditions ([NO3] ≈ 12 µM, [PO4] ≈ 3 µM), simulating nutrient environments that have been previously described for reefs with increased coral growth rates (Extended Data Fig. 1 and Extended Data Table 1)."

"Experimental corals were kept in separate flow-through tanks under nutrient-replete conditions, as described above, and in a nutrient-limited system ([NO3] ≈ 0.7 µM, [PO4] ≈ 0.13 µM) with the same layout."

 

[Doctorgori]

Thinking about the minimum you can get away with, check this paper.
https://www.nature.com/articles/s41586-023-06442-5#MOESM1
Corals (most typical in the hobby) were grown with no nutrients or with NO3 +PO4 and that's it. The water was essentially stripped of all else.

"Temperatures (~27 °C) and salinity (~33 practical salinity units (psu)) in the experimental aquaria were monitored regularly and kept constant during long-term culture and experimentation. Aquaria were illuminated by metal halide lamps (Aqualine 10,000, Aqua Medic), operated on a 12-h light/dark cycle, exposing the corals to a light intensity of ~105 µmol m−2 s−1. Turbulent flow was generated using a Turbelle Nanostream 6045 (Tunze), operated at a flow rate of 4,500 l h−1. Corals were kept in nutrient-replete conditions ([NO3] ≈ 12 µM, [PO4] ≈ 3 µM), simulating nutrient environments that have been previously described for reefs with increased coral growth rates (Extended Data Fig. 1 and Extended Data Table 1)."

"Experimental corals were kept in separate flow-through tanks under nutrient-replete conditions, as described above, and in a nutrient-limited system ([NO3] ≈ 0.7 µM, [PO4] ≈ 0.13 µM) with the same layout."

Appreciate that a lot…

But just reading your above post clearly highlights the difference between your ability/experience from mine. The gulf is so wide I have zero shame in admitting that…

I am inspired to back up a little bit here. Clearly Ive been planning this for some time but your thread prompted a premature post: a mix of excitement and reality that my experiment lacked clarity and format….

Thank you so much for the research links, and if anyone else has material that can enlighten me in similarly, PLEASE advise…no shame, just results

 

[Doctorgori]

Thinking about the minimum you can get away with, check this paper.
https://www.nature.com/articles/s41586-023-06442-5#MOESM1

Excellent…
My neophyte level take aways (and if anyone likewise reads this, please chime in for any corrections)

• I would have assumed organic sources of N & P would be preferable, I was wrong/mis informed
• I did not know the corals actually digested the host algae, and the effects of starvation is delayed by weeks
• The primary source of N&P is from the host algae, not direct capture of prey or particulates
• Bagged/repackaged seagull poop is a possible business opportunity or its at least a legit/viable substitute over any other OTC alleged commercial “coral food” LOL

Anyway as suggested it appears for simplicity sake just adding aminos and maintaining N & P levels should work.

The complexity of adding organic particulates, zooplankton and/or seagull poop isn't necessary

The addition of a fish based CUC is a bonus not a requirement (at least nutritionally for the corals) ..I will probably add these for pest algae control anyway

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

• I would have assumed organic sources of N & P would be preferable, I was wrong/mis informed

I did not see an experiment or statement that suggested that. Perhaps I missed it. What made you conclude that?

Only mention of organics that I noted was that levels on many reefs were low.

 

[Doctorgori]

I did not see an experiment or statement that suggested that. Perhaps I missed it. What made you conclude that?

Only mention of organics that I noted was that levels on many reefs were low.

Appreciate the adult supervision here; also the constant correction of misunderstandings/ misinformation posted by us less educated hobbyist…..your time spent is not lost on me… apologies in advance for this TL;DR…

My statement about inorganic’s is just poor wording and/or over simplifying …..

TBH the scientific speak/jargon in this paper is a much easier read for pHD types like you (respect) …. For instance “Anthropomorphic N&P” is that really high speak for “raw sewage” ? et et et

Just saying reading that stuff at my level: Ive had to back track over and over just to make sure I understand the assorted trophic levels: Autotrophs, heterotrophs et et …shoot, I had to google Ogliotrophic…LOL

Regurgitating:

The first few paragraphs sort of made it clear (to me) the host corals can’t directly use N & P in any form but ammonium (to a minor extent) … also (to paraphrase) the host coral basically can just eat the symbiont cells to get all the nutrition it needs…

But then later on in the document (and confusing me further) was a later statement about acropora benefiting from feeding on phytoplankton.

Combining the two I am confused: which is it?
Corals don't need any other nutritional input other than feeding on their symbiont algae
OR
is the paper saying corals feeding on phytoplankton is more than just a bonus?

…I also went over that illustration showing the nutritional pathways/exchange for N&P between host coral & symbiont algae. It looked like a closed loop that made no sense: The algae consumes the waste N&P from the host then gives it back? And if it actually “eats” the algae cell (vs absorption or whatever it is) it gets back even more N&P ?

And what of the sugars from photosynthesis? When the host eats the algae directly does it only gets N & P but waste any benefits it might have gained from the same cells making the sugars?

Im confused: N&P has two possible pathways from the symbiont to feed the host coral but it gets its carbon/sugar only from the photosynthesis of the symbiont algae

I looked over that illustration and honestly Im not understanding all these assorted nutritional pathways between host and symbiont

Another of my take aways that could be wrong: but as I read it, it seemed if you add more ferts to the water its the symbiont that benefits directly, not the host. Basically more inorganic N & P in the water = more algae cells the host can consume? Wouldn't more algae = increase in photosynthesis?
Is the paper saying the coral would prefer to just eat the algae rather than bothering to extract sugars via photosynthesis?

More confusion: I went over that whole seagull poop in the water study; I wish the author could have just used a Hanna ULR phosphate checker and given the data in “Reef test kit metrics” … poop water vs normal reef …

Honestly I couldn't follow all the poop isotopes tracing jargon…

I wish the authors would have just distilled that into: basically “how much dirt above normal NSW levels resulted in increased tissue/skeletal growth”…

I suppose they probably answered that but not at my level of understanding

 

[Doctorgori]

Mitras Bars came in…I had to set them up just to test …
Darn solid if not out right heavy duty ….typical made in Germany stuff (or wherever they are made)

Not sure how to program, if anyone has experience please add… I also have the light controller, splitter and 200w power brick

 

[Doctorgori]

If you want to see what's already been demonstrated about particular fluorescent proteins being increased by lighting at different colors, this Dana Riddle is a good place to start if you haven't seen it.

https://reefs.com/magazine/how-to-m...attention-to-blue-green-fluorescent-pigments/
https://reefs.com/magazine/how-to-m...and-photoconversion-from-green-to-orange-red/
https://reefs.com/magazine/how-to-m...ormation-red-fluorescent-pigments-dsred-type/

I “think” I read one of Dana’s articles along time ago. I did not fully understand then and only understand a little more now.

Having grown corals under reddish “daylight” color temps/spectrums I fully well realize they will be ugly and brown. Whether this effect is permanent or not is one question, and whether you can add something to the water to change a corals color is another….

I am going to read and re-read Danas article but I am still sifting through them trying to parse out the physics/chemistry from any measured biological adjustment because of light source (like corals actually turning brown under 6500K, why?)

Its still a chicken or egg question, with enough chemical waggle for the assorted manufacturers to claim some water chemistry can effect protein production

 

[taricha]

I am going to read and re-read Danas article but I am still sifting through them trying to parse out the physics/chemistry from any measured biological adjustment because of light source (like corals actually turning brown under 6500K, why?)

A good first read on those articles, is to look at each chart like the one I posted earlier.
It's a decent list of individual corals and individual colors and how those pigments increased (or not) under Red, Green, or Blue light and how they increased (or not) under different PAR values.
You'll probably find some of the corals you have and some of their pigments present represented in a few of those chart. Useful for setting expectations.

The "why" / "how" is a whole thing I certainly can't explain in any great detail. :)

 

[Doctorgori]

It's a decent list of individual corals and individual colors and how those pigments increased (or not) under Red, Green, or Blue light and how they increased (or not) under different PAR values.

Respectful of your time, You don't have to reply to this but should you (or anyone else) glance by;

I had a different (and apparently incorrect) take away: My thoughts were that the proteins were already present but then “expressed” the assorted colors when exposed to the different wavelengths…

.. I will for back for my 2nd read, but is the study really saying these proteins are BIG variable and thus produced/increase in direct correlation to whatever bandwidth the coral is exposed to?
And/or do the assorted proteins “vanish” eventually if/when exposed to different wavelengths under different durations and intensity?

…thats very different thing, and if thats the case, then wild collected corals colonies should look very different than a sample frag from that same colony raised under the typical Reef tank Blue 15000K …

Conversely then a domestic coral sample (grown under “blue” light) and placed back in the “wild” , should theoretically be more colorful than a mariculture frag swapped into a reef tank. Or no?

Again, I already knew 6500k “browned” corals but what part was optics and what part was a actual biological response (protein production) was not clear to me (I had no way to compare since blue light did not exist yet when I had MH)

… geez, there are a few nice derivative questions and possible experiments from that, thank you.

I don't have the expertise or equipment to even try to duplicate Danas work with proteins but a simple logging of water parameters, lighting schedules/intensity and photographic daily log should be sufficient for gaining some insight…

This should be especially true when evaluating the assorted color enchantments and elixirs. If the evaluated product allegedly enhances colors then any hidden metrics are not as important as any noticeable visual changes per eyeball(s)(since the entire value add promise the product is sold under is a obvious visual change in color) …either you can SEE the color change or you cant


Going back in

 

[Lasse]

Not sure how to program, if anyone has experience please add… I also have the light controller, splitter and 200w power brick

Have you solve this? I have run Mitras LED bar 2 for more than 4 years.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Doctorgori]

Have you solve this? I have run Mitras LED bar 2 for more than 4 years.

Sincerely Lasse

No and its a slightly convoluted process, the app gets so far then never completes…not sure if its a registration issue with their cloud or a wi fi thing…
I put in a support ticket to GHL same day I recieved the lights, no reply yet…
I am researching how to usb in directly to program the lights…

Appreciate your eyeballs even stopping by…If there is anything off or wrong, and if you get a chance, please provide frank assessment….I wont let pride get in the way of science LOL…
I wont assume any importance or priority of this thread in your regard…any input appreciated

 

[Lasse]

Do you have a PC? or a mac with possibility to run an virtual PC machine? Its better to do this with the client/server program GHL Control Center and an USB connection when you start IMO.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Doctorgori]

Don't want to gum up my own thread, but I originally wanted to post this over on the "sister experiment" by @taricha (but I don't want to gum up that thread either LOL)

Recalling the high Alkalinity doctrine/methods from a few years back (when high alkalinity in the 12DkH-14DkH was a thing), it was shortly after this we found it it led to brittle skeletons and burnt tips;
I/we (most of the hobby) incorrectly assumed faster growth = better

We know better now, and I'm now wondering if in chasing colors we might be falling into the same trap: is a more colorful coral actually a stronger/more survivable coral? Are we making the assumption that visual appeal equates to fitness?. The analogy being trying to grow a floral gardenia under perfect conditions only to plant it outside and expect it to survive in the elements...

....I am pouring over the links @taricha provided (BIG THANKS)

https://reefs.com/magazine/how-to-m...attention-to-blue-green-fluorescent-pigments/
https://reefs.com/magazine/how-to-m...and-photoconversion-from-green-to-orange-red/
https://reefs.com/magazine/how-to-m...ormation-red-fluorescent-pigments-dsred-type/

...while I am developing this experiment I want to address some derivative/basal questions first:

• Is a colorful coral actually stronger, hardier, faster growing, et?
  • Does better appearance actually equate to a better coral (how is "better/healthier" defined?)
  • are we assuming great looking corals have a higher survivability, or adaptability?
  • Is there any way to measure a direct correlation between color equating to health & fitness?
  • what are our goals for color? Is the end goal the most colorful coral possible or the heathiest/strongest? What's the proof enhanced colors equates to fitness?
  • are these "hyper colored" corals just "florist shop" versions unsuitable for planting outside in the real world, under real world variables and environmental challenges? Is buying the most colorful colored coral possible also buying the most fittest coral?
• Is the goal to identify compounds or lighting variables that enhance color and does that goal align directly with achieving a "tougher" coral? Is there proof a ugly brown coral grown under 6500K lighting is "weaker" than a coral grown under 28K "coral pop" lighting? what are the comparable fitness levels and how can we measure that?

I am currently chronologically re-ordering this experiment based on the above. This is looking like its going to be a very long experiment. I might have to include some environmental stressors towards the end. Also without the equipment or expertise to analyze tissue, or measure light spectrum properly, a lot of this will be data collection with hobby grade test kits and photographic/eyeball comparison...

I will ICP end to end and anytime there is junction in the experiment that warrants one (TBD)..​

I am going to break this experiment down into chronological "phases" also, TENTATIVELY

PS - do you have a length of time for the testing - and how often are you doing measurements. Since you have paired specimens - comparing survival might also be interesting.

1. do you have a length of time for the testing? Not yet, it will be at least 30 days AFTER I fill with 35ppt before any corals are added, maybe longer if I can't get the Neptune gear in working order.... The tanks have already been through 2 "Wet run" using fresh water (leak test, Apex programming, et). I expect this test will take 1 year or longer.
2. how often are you doing measurements?Thats TBD for the Hanna and Salifert test. But also I have a Trident unit and a Trident NP so at a minimum some test will be daily:
   1. Alkalinity 2X/24hr
   2. Magnesium 1X/24hr
   3. Calcium 1x/24hr
   4. Phosphate 1x/24 hr
   5. Nitrate 1x.24hr

My confidence in the Trident NP readings isn't high so I am going to back those up with the Salifert and/or Hanna equivalents. Since Lanthanum Chloride will be dosed to approximate NSW levels; so for safety, triple testing redundancy for Phosphate is required: never trusting Trident NP readings alone, and taking the mid or even a average value between Trident, Salifet and Hanna for both phosphate and nitrate. I'll work this out depending on how the Trident NP unit performs...

Additionally I want to verify/compare my Trident readings with Hanna/Salifert at least 2x week, making sure any "offsets" between testing brands remain consistent. I have the following test kits with the following proposed/tentative testing frequencies:

• Salifert Calcium 1X/week
• Salifert Magnesium 1X/week
• Salifert Nitrate 1X/week
• Hanna ULR Phosphate 2X/week
• Hanna HR Nitrate 2X/week
• Hanna Magnesium 1X/week
• Hanna Marine Ammonia testing frequency TBD
• Hanna Iron and Manganese LR Kit (on order) testing frequency TBD

Obviously this will be doc'd on a supporting spreadsheet, graphs et (one of my few competencies)

Just to add to the thought process, I would consider weighing the frags to measure growth(vs physically measuring dimensions)

That is in the plan, I am mounting the frags on clear rulers so I will have to "tare" the rulers before the frags encrust. Not sure on the measuring frequency. I have cameras, so photo documenting should not be a issue

Thinking about the minimum you can get away with, check this paper.
https://www.nature.com/articles/s41586-023-06442-5#MOESM1
Corals (most typical in the hobby) were grown with no nutrients or with NO3 +PO4 and that's it. The water was essentially stripped of all else.

I'm thinking the initial phases will be a dosing based "liquid diet", I will be combing through some of the zero nitrate/phosphate solution threads on the chemistry forum along with RHF's articles on ammonia dosing et....I will probably use Tropic Marins stuff ... No formalized plan yet..

I will likely have to address pest algae and implement CUC instages and this in of itself will skew measurements as the fish/snail poops gets recycled back into potential coral food. Playing "phase II" by ear

If any additional nutrition is required the plan is to use a single algae type either via direct phyto dosing or via indirect feeding of copepods and brine shrimp via fish consumption. I could use a primer on what you mean by "re-mineralization".
I don't have a formal plan, nor am I sure how to work this into, or how phytoplankton will effect the "colorization" of the corals. Not sure how much overlap or support there is here with your experiment. I won't assume you have time for babysitting this thread or educating me so your timely reply isn't required or expected

Do you have a PC? or a mac with possibility to run an virtual PC machine? Its better to do this with the client/server program GHL Control Center and an USB connection when you start IMO.

Sincerely Lasse

I was able to run a USB printer cable to the Mini WiFi/Light unit and play with the GHL program. I can see the flexibility to program all the color channels and have a look at some of the baked in" stuff with color temperatures and lighting templates.

Pardon the "Dunning-Krueger" from this point on...

Off the cuff I don't know how to adjust the two light units individually. Also I am going to have to figure out the settings for each (Skywhite vs "Color Pop") ...basically I want a "Apples to Apples" energy equivalency between the two lightbar units.
I want to:

• set the"Skywhite" lightbar to natural sunlight (5500K or as close as possible to sunlight at 18")
• set the "Color pop to its organic 28K

and "somehow" get close to matching the same output in the two chlorophyll bands for both ... I fully realize there will be wasted bandwidth outside of whatever the zooxanthellae need with the Skywhite, but that's the point ... basically I just want to "Skywhite" to deliver the same required chlorophyll producing output as the "Coral Pop". I can adjust either the intensity and distance with either tank setup. The GHL programming "appear" to be able to adjust this. I'm not assuming @Lasse you have time for helping directly but any links/GHL tutorials will be greatly appreciated (thus far help resources on GHL's sites are confusing/convoluted IMO)
@oreo54 ..anything you can lend or chime in appreciated (not assuming this is your priority either) BIG THANKS thus far and TIA for any future help

anyone else familiar with GHL controller appreciated