Coral curiosity...

bikerbutter

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Hello all,
So...we(my wife and I) are going to get a sample set with 1 favia,1 monti, 1 chalice, and 1 acan. As we have no experience with these, we would welcome any suggestions or advice on caring for these magnificent creatures. We are 5 months into the hobby and enjoying 85% of it. All help greatly appreciated.
 

BryanM

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Tank size, lights, flow, parameters?

Keeping fairly stable parameters is key. I'm in the camp that keeping stable ALK is the most key....doing that likely keeps most other things pretty close. Then monitoring Nitrates and Phosphates, and not letting them go to zero is another important key.
 

bluemon

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Acan is probably the hardest of the bunch (I’m assuming you mean micromussa lords which WERE what people call Acans), but they are all good starter stonies.

Except for the monti, start them off with low flow and low light
 
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Acan is probably the hardest of the bunch (I’m assuming you mean micromussa lords which WERE what people call Acans), but they are all god starter stonies.

Except for the monti, start them off with low flow and low light
Thank you for your assistance!! That is great to know on the monti. Yes, it is micromussa-acan.
 

TX_REEF

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Tank size, lights, flow, parameters?

Keeping fairly stable parameters is key. I'm in the camp that keeping stable ALK is the most key....doing that likely keeps most other things pretty close. Then monitoring Nitrates and Phosphates, and not letting them go to zero is another important key.
this info will help us guide you.

All of those will do just fine in moderate, indirect flow and low to medium lighting intensity (80-170 PAR). I know some people consider montis to require high intensity lighting, but I run 170-250 PAR in my frag tank depending on exact spot in the tank, and my encrusting monti thrives outside of the most intense areas.
 

TX_REEF

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this info will help us guide you.

All of those will do just fine in moderate, indirect flow and low to medium lighting intensity (80-170 PAR). I know some people consider montis to require high intensity lighting, but I run 170-250 PAR in my frag tank depending on exact spot in the tank, and my encrusting monti thrives outside of the most intense areas.
here's a photo of him happily encrusting, for reference...

1747444716003.png
 
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bikerbutter

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Tank size, lights, flow, parameters?

Keeping fairly stable parameters is key. I'm in the camp that keeping stable ALK is the most key....doing that likely keeps most other things pretty close. Then monitoring Nitrates and Phosphates, and not letting them go to zero is another important key.
We currently have a 36 gal, fluval 18w 24-36 light. Tidal 75 filter. 1 small power head. Thank you for the awesome advice!!
 
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bikerbutter

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this info will help us guide you.

All of those will do just fine in moderate, indirect flow and low to medium lighting intensity (80-170 PAR). I know some people consider montis to require high intensity lighting, but I run 170-250 PAR in my frag tank depending on exact spot in the tank, and my encrusting monti thrives outside of the most intense areas.
Much appreciated. Thanks. My light is 225 par at3 inches, 80 to 160ish in the mid section. This gives us guidance on how to place them.
 

TX_REEF

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We currently have a 36 gal, fluval 18w 24-36 light. Tidal 75 filter. 1 small power head. Thank you for the awesome advice!!
you're gonna wanna upgrade lighting and flow ASAP, 18 watts isn't gonna cut it. For flow "small powerhead" doesn't sound very promising, so I'd venture to say you need an upgrade there too. I'd get on this sooner than later, coral health depends heavily on lighting and flow! Here are some solid options for you, you just need one of each:

Lighting:
Flow: gyres are the best in my experience. Affordable and provide the chaotic, gentle, widespread flow that all corals love.
  • hygger:
    • even blend of quality and afforability. easy to control with included controller.
  • maxspect: https://amzn.to/432pJyI
    • similar functionality to hygger, but runs quieter, and the pump hardware is noticably higher quality/more robust.
 

TX_REEF

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WOW!! That is so awesome how it grows on the grate. We just got a new frag rack. I hope ours goes as well.
btw, if you need more frag racks in the future, just make your own for cheap ;) here's a mini photo guide from my tank thread if you are interested...

1747445523363.png
 
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bikerbutter

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you're gonna wanna upgrade lighting and flow ASAP, 18 watts isn't gonna cut it. For flow "small powerhead" doesn't sound very promising, so I'd venture to say you need an upgrade there too. I'd get on this sooner than later, coral health depends heavily on lighting and flow! Here are some solid options for you, you just need one of each:

Lighting:
Flow: gyres are the best in my experience. Affordable and provide the chaotic, gentle, widespread flow that all corals love.
  • hygger:
    • even blend of quality and afforability. easy to control with included controller.
  • maxspect: https://amzn.to/432pJyI
    • similar functionality to hygger, but runs quieter, and the pump hardware is noticably higher quality/more robust.
Awesome!! Thanks. We definitely want better lighting. We kept the flow lower because dwarf seahorses are our ultimate goal.
 
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bikerbutter

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btw, if you need more frag racks in the future, just make your own for cheap ;) here's a mini photo guide from my tank thread if you are interested...

1747445523363.png
YES!! I'd much rather make my own. What kind of grate is that?
 

VintageReefer

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Much appreciated. Thanks. My light is 225 par at3 inches, 80 to 160ish in the mid section. This gives us guidance on how to place them.
Is this the light?
21B8D8B2-4204-46AA-A943-586FF5AFC7F9.png


This is a freshwater light, or for saltwater it would be for a fish only tank to provide illumination. It is not suitable for coral growth. The spectrum is wrong

The par ratings they give are for all channels at 100% but the led diodes ratios are not correct for coral

D62B8D22-D397-492A-9CF1-839146E96375.jpeg


the white to blues ratio is pretty much inverted and the “blues” are included on a tri color led also containing red and green. That means blue gets 1/3 the watts from each led it’s one. Red and green are not needed nor helpful.

By the time you use blue only and add a splash of white; your par will be 1/10 the rated spec.

What are your tanks dimensions?
 
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bikerbutter

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Is this the light?
21B8D8B2-4204-46AA-A943-586FF5AFC7F9.png


This is a freshwater light, or for saltwater it would be for a fish only tank to provide illumination. It is not suitable for coral growth. The spectrum is wrong

The par ratings they give are for all channels at 100% but the led diodes ratios are not correct for coral

D62B8D22-D397-492A-9CF1-839146E96375.jpeg


the white to blues ratio is pretty much inverted and the “blues” are included on a tri color led also containing red and green. That means blue gets 1/3 the watts from each led it’s one. Red and green are not needed nor helpful.

By the time you use blue only and add a splash of white; your par will be 1/10 the rated spec.

What are your tanks dimensions?
It's the petsmart bowfront 36. 25 tall.30 wide. 15.6 back to front.
20250119_100415.jpg
 
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bikerbutter

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Is this the light?
21B8D8B2-4204-46AA-A943-586FF5AFC7F9.png


This is a freshwater light, or for saltwater it would be for a fish only tank to provide illumination. It is not suitable for coral growth. The spectrum is wrong

The par ratings they give are for all channels at 100% but the led diodes ratios are not correct for coral

D62B8D22-D397-492A-9CF1-839146E96375.jpeg


the white to blues ratio is pretty much inverted and the “blues” are included on a tri color led also containing red and green. That means blue gets 1/3 the watts from each led it’s one. Red and green are not needed nor helpful.

By the time you use blue only and add a splash of white; your par will be 1/10 the rated spec.

What are your tanks dimensions?
Yes, that's the one.
 

TX_REEF

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TX_REEF

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Awesome!! Thanks. We definitely want better lighting. We kept the flow lower because dwarf seahorses are our ultimate goal.
I would respectfully urge you to reconsider. Dwarf seahorses really need a species focused tank. dwarf seahorses and most corals are generally not compatible because:
  • Corals need chaotic, widespread flow for health and growth. Seahorses need extremely gentle flow.
  • Many corals, especially LPS corals, have stinging tentacles which may harm or kill the horses.
  • Seahorses like to grab and hang onto things. Corals do not like things hanging on them, and may also sting and harm the horses.
 
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VintageReefer

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you're gonna wanna upgrade lighting and flow ASAP, 18 watts isn't gonna cut it. For flow "small powerhead" doesn't sound very promising, so I'd venture to say you need an upgrade there too. I'd get on this sooner than later, coral health depends heavily on lighting and flow! Here are some solid options for you, you just need one of each:

Lighting:
Flow: gyres are the best in my experience. Affordable and provide the chaotic, gentle, widespread flow that all corals love.
  • hygger:
    • even blend of quality and afforability. easy to control with included controller.
  • maxspect: https://amzn.to/432pJyI
    • similar functionality to hygger, but runs quieter, and the pump hardware is noticably higher quality/more robust.
Since we are throwing out kessil and reefi, along the lines of that budget I would recommend a Meridian 11 with the optional encompass wide lens, it will cover a tank up to 30x30 and give excellent spectrum for coral growth and viewing. App controlled and fully programable and will grow any coral you want

https://reefbreeders.com/products/meridian-11
 

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