Coral help

[fixel2002]

Hey guys,

I added my first few corals this past Friday, I’m new to the hobby so I asked for suggestions on beginner corals from my LFS. (The torch wasn’t his idea, I was insistent on buying one because they were on sale)

The torch hasn’t fully opened yet, the pictures below are about as open as I’ve seen it. I’m aware they require moderate to high flow but not with the flow directly blasting them. I would say mine is begging moderate flow.

I can’t remember what the orange coral is called, if someone could please let me know. It seemed to be doing good until today, I don’t recall seeing the white ring around the edge before. Is this a sign of bleaching? Or am I overreacting and the torch needs more time to adjust and the white ring has been there the whole time?

I am using the Nicrew HyperReef 100 Gen 2 and have it set on the default “pro” setting











.

 

[fixel2002]

 

[fixel2002]

Hey guys,

I added my first few corals this past Friday, I’m new to the hobby so I asked for suggestions on beginner corals from my LFS. (The torch wasn’t his idea, I was insistent on buying one because they were on sale)

The torch hasn’t fully opened yet, the pictures below are about as open as I’ve seen it. I’m aware they require moderate to high flow but not with the flow directly blasting them. I would say mine is begging moderate flow.

I can’t remember what the orange coral is called, if someone could please let me know. It seemed to be doing good until today, I don’t recall seeing the white ring around the edge before. Is this a sign of bleaching? Or am I overreacting and the torch needs more time to adjust and the white ring has been there the whole time?

I am using the Nicrew HyperReef 100 Gen 2 and have it set on the default “pro” setting











.

 

[fixel2002]

 

[fixel2002]

Sorry for all the replies. App is being weird on my phone.

I should’ve also added, I think the pro setting was at peak 100% violet and blue, 20% white, and 10% green and red for 6 hours.

I have since made my own and turned violet and blue to 75%, 15% white, and 5% green and red.

 

[kevgib67]

Sorry for all the replies. App is being weird on my phone.

I should’ve also added, I think the pro setting was at peak 100% violet and blue, 20% white, and 10% green and red for 6 hours.

I have since made my own and turned violet and blue to 75%, 15% white, and 5% green and red.

You want a white flesh band running down the skeleton, sign of good health. You want moderate random flow and moderate par (100-150). Try and keep your phosphate at .05-.1 and nitrate at 10-15. I’m guessing from looking at your tank you’re running low nitrate and phosphate. The other coral appears to be an orange monti cap. About the same requirement. Neither are considered easy corals and would have been better added once the tank was more established and stable. Newer tanks seem to go through a lot of fluctuations in parameters and neither of these tolerate fluctuations well. Not impossible but you’re going to need to stay on your toes the next few months and come back here often with questions.

 

[fixel2002]

Sorry for all the replies. App is being weird on my phone.

I should’ve also added, I think the pro setting was at peak 100% violet and blue, 20% white, and 10% green and red for 6 hours.

I have since made my own and turned violet and blue to 75%, 15% white, and 5% green and red.

You want a white flesh band running down the skeleton, sign of good health. You want moderate random flow and moderate par (100-150). Try and keep your phosphate at .05-.1 and nitrate at 10-15. I’m guessing from looking at your tank you’re running low nitrate and phosphate. The other coral appears to be an orange monti cap. About the same requirement. Neither are considered easy corals and would have been better added once the tank was more established and stable. Newer tanks seem to go through a lot of fluctuations in parameters and neither of these tolerate fluctuations well. Not impossible but you’re going to need to stay on your toes the next few months and come back here often with questions.

My new test kits just got delivered today. Was just using API test kit before. Salifert MAG and CAL tests, Hanna Phosphate, ALK, and Nitrate tests.

Also got the BRS calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium starter package, going to get everything tested today.

Thank you for the response!

 

[kevgib67]

My new test kits just got delivered today. Was just using API test kit before. Salifert MAG and CAL tests, Hanna Phosphate, ALK, and Nitrate tests.

Also got the BRS calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium starter package, going to get everything tested today.

Thank you for the response!

Sounds good, good luck!

 

[fixel2002]

My new test kits just got delivered today. Was just using API test kit before. Salifert MAG and CAL tests, Hanna Phosphate, ALK, and Nitrate tests.

Also got the BRS calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium starter package, going to get everything tested today.

Thank you for the response!

Sounds good, good luck!

Calcium and magnesium tested a little low, dosed accordingly using BRS calculator.

Phosphates were really high, coming in at .74ppm. I have some chemipure elite on hand, I was told to not throw it in the media chamber until needed. I think it’s time to add it, lol.

 

[kevgib67]

Calcium and magnesium tested a little low, dosed accordingly using BRS calculator.

Phosphates were really high, coming in at .74ppm. I have some chemipure elite on hand, I was told to not throw it in the media chamber until needed. I think it’s time to add it, lol.

Hmmm, I wonder where the phosphate is coming from? I doubt that you are over feeding, not much livestock. I went back and read the original post because phosphate binds to rock and can leach but your rock isn’t live rock it looks like dry rock. There is a dry rock sold that’s called life rock and it often confuses people. We can rule out your rock leaching phosphate pretty much. I would be suspicious of the water you use. Are you making your own RO/DI water? Your not using tap water right? Could be a testing error as well. With just two new corals in there calcium and magnesium consumption would be minimal. What salt are you using? Are you doing water changes. Water changes should easily keep your magnesium and calcium at the levels that your salt box states it should mix to. I missed it last time but typically white edges on a monti cap indicates growth. Could you post a full tank picture please.

 

[fixel2002]

Calcium and magnesium tested a little low, dosed accordingly using BRS calculator.

Phosphates were really high, coming in at .74ppm. I have some chemipure elite on hand, I was told to not throw it in the media chamber until needed. I think it’s time to add it, lol.

Hmmm, I wonder where the phosphate is coming from? I doubt that you are over feeding, not much livestock. I went back and read the original post because phosphate binds to rock and can leach but your rock isn’t live rock it looks like dry rock. There is a dry rock sold that’s called life rock and it often confuses people. We can rule out your rock leaching phosphate pretty much. I would be suspicious of the water you use. Are you making your own RO/DI water? Your not using tap water right? Could be a testing error as well. With just two new corals in there calcium and magnesium consumption would be minimal. What salt are you using? Are you doing water changes. Water changes should easily keep your magnesium and calcium at the levels that your salt box states it should mix to. I missed it last time but typically white edges on a monti cap indicates growth. Could you post a full tank picture please.

I went for the 75% dry rock and 25% live rock method.

I have a clown, tail spot blenny, and a six line wrasse. There are two more corals but I didn’t post them bc I believe they’re doing well, trumpet coral and a mushroom coral.

Prior to today, the only thing I’ve added is seachem stability when it was cycling, have dosed once with microbacter clean, and I used seachem marine buffer when filling, and added to ATO.

Salt is Instant Ocean’s Instant Ocean, going to switch to the reef salt or tropic Marin next time I buy salt. Figured it wouldn’t hurt to finish this bag first.

Will post a picture of full tank later this evening.

 

[fixel2002]

Calcium and magnesium tested a little low, dosed accordingly using BRS calculator.

Phosphates were really high, coming in at .74ppm. I have some chemipure elite on hand, I was told to not throw it in the media chamber until needed. I think it’s time to add it, lol.

Hmmm, I wonder where the phosphate is coming from? I doubt that you are over feeding, not much livestock. I went back and read the original post because phosphate binds to rock and can leach but your rock isn’t live rock it looks like dry rock. There is a dry rock sold that’s called life rock and it often confuses people. We can rule out your rock leaching phosphate pretty much. I would be suspicious of the water you use. Are you making your own RO/DI water? Your not using tap water right? Could be a testing error as well. With just two new corals in there calcium and magnesium consumption would be minimal. What salt are you using? Are you doing water changes. Water changes should easily keep your magnesium and calcium at the levels that your salt box states it should mix to. I missed it last time but typically white edges on a monti cap indicates growth. Could you post a full tank picture please.

I went for the 75% dry rock and 25% live rock method.

I have a clown, tail spot blenny, and a six line wrasse. There are two more corals but I didn’t post them bc I believe they’re doing well, trumpet coral and a mushroom coral.

Prior to today, the only thing I’ve added is seachem stability when it was cycling, have dosed once with microbacter clean, and I used seachem marine buffer when filling, and added to ATO.

Salt is Instant Ocean’s Instant Ocean, going to switch to the reef salt or tropic Marin next time I buy salt. Figured it wouldn’t hurt to finish this bag first.

Will post a picture of full tank later this evening.

Forgot to mention the water and water changes. I do use RODI water. I’ve not done a water change yet, suppose I should do one in the near future. Tank is about a month old now.

 

[kevgib67]

I went for the 75% dry rock and 25% live rock method.

I have a clown, tail spot blenny, and a six line wrasse. There are two more corals but I didn’t post them bc I believe they’re doing well, trumpet coral and a mushroom coral.

Prior to today, the only thing I’ve added is seachem stability when it was cycling, have dosed once with microbacter clean, and I used seachem marine buffer when filling, and added to ATO.

Salt is Instant Ocean’s Instant Ocean, going to switch to the reef salt or tropic Marin next time I buy salt. Figured it wouldn’t hurt to finish this bag first.

Will post a picture of full tank later this evening.

That’s still a low bioload unless your tank is a pico. What size is it?

 

[kevgib67]

Forgot to mention the water and water changes. I do use RODI water. I’ve not done a water change yet, suppose I should do one in the near future. Tank is about a month old now.

You said you use RO/DI, do you buy it or make it? If you buy it , sometimes lfs’s get lazy and don’t change the filters and/or resin as often as they should. If you buy it test it before putting it in your tank, it very well could be the source. I think your current salt is fine, it’s the most used salt in the world and used by public aquariums. I’m a strong proponent for doing at least 10% weekly water changes but some people prefer biweekly 20% water changes.

 

[fixel2002]

I went for the 75% dry rock and 25% live rock method.

I have a clown, tail spot blenny, and a six line wrasse. There are two more corals but I didn’t post them bc I believe they’re doing well, trumpet coral and a mushroom coral.

Prior to today, the only thing I’ve added is seachem stability when it was cycling, have dosed once with microbacter clean, and I used seachem marine buffer when filling, and added to ATO.

Salt is Instant Ocean’s Instant Ocean, going to switch to the reef salt or tropic Marin next time I buy salt. Figured it wouldn’t hurt to finish this bag first.

Will post a picture of full tank later this evening.

That’s still a low bioload unless your tank is a pico. What size is it?

Fluval Evo 13.5

Sorry I should’ve clarified, I buy it. I know I need to get an RODI system and make it myself but it seems too complex and makes me nervous lol, but I’m sure it’s easier than it looks/sounds. I’ll buy some tomorrow and test it before using it for a water change.

 

[kevgib67]

Fluval Evo 13.5

Sorry I should’ve clarified, I buy it. I know I need to get an RODI system and make it myself but it seems too complex and makes me nervous lol, but I’m sure it’s easier than it looks/sounds. I’ll buy some tomorrow and test it before using it for a water change.

Your bioload is fine for a nano, you might run into problems with the clown down the road. I’m on my 3rd sixline and have not and the sixline had any problems but from what I read it’s about 50/50 on whether you’ll have a peaceful, great for pest control or a homicidal maniac. Ro/Di uunits are as complicated as you want to make them. I have a BRS unit that I just put the filers it comes with in and it was good to go. A lot of people have great success with a RO Buddie, inexpensive and easy. The benefits to making your own is it saves you money in the long run and you have complete control of the water you are mixing.

 

[Wrassefan78]

Fluval Evo 13.5

Sorry I should’ve clarified, I buy it. I know I need to get an RODI system and make it myself but it seems too complex and makes me nervous lol, but I’m sure it’s easier than it looks/sounds. I’ll buy some tomorrow and test it before using it for a water change.

You would be surprised how easy it is to set up a RODI system. I have mine outside connected to where the hose would attach to. If you get stuck there’s tons of YouTube videos out there.

 

[fixel2002]

Fluval Evo 13.5

Sorry I should’ve clarified, I buy it. I know I need to get an RODI system and make it myself but it seems too complex and makes me nervous lol, but I’m sure it’s easier than it looks/sounds. I’ll buy some tomorrow and test it before using it for a water change.

You would be surprised how easy it is to set up a RODI system. I have mine outside connected to where the hose would attach to. If you get stuck there’s tons of YouTube videos out there.

Really? I could do that. I was under the impression I had to have someone come install one somewhere in my house and run a new water line to it, going by what the LFS guy said. I’ll have to look into it then. Do you leave it hooked up all the time and have it go to like a reservoir? Or do you just connect it when you need it?

 

[kevgib67]

Really? I could do that. I was under the impression I had to have someone come install one somewhere in my house and run a new water line to it, going by what the LFS guy said. I’ll have to look into it then. Do you leave it hooked up all the time and have it go to like a reservoir? Or do you just connect it when you need it?

I just connect it when I use it. It just connects to the facet of my utility sink.

 

[fixel2002]

Really? I could do that. I was under the impression I had to have someone come install one somewhere in my house and run a new water line to it, going by what the LFS guy said. I’ll have to look into it then. Do you leave it hooked up all the time and have it go to like a reservoir? Or do you just connect it when you need it?

I just connect it when I use it. It just connects to the facet of my utility sink.

$70 seems like a good price. Might have to pull the trigger.