Not worried about soldering or actually putting the fixture together i do refrigeration, just havent followed as far as good brands and essentially what works best with what. if that makes sense
simple but a bit err problematic (hp leds run in parallel systems can be problematic for reasons that are a bit
long to explain even though some are already built like that, like the long Orphek ones) is just find light bars using constant current and get a 2x current equiv driver and run the 2 bars in parallel..
If you get bars that are constant voltage ..just boost the current (wattage) and run them in series..
Orphek example:
[*]New OR 120: Input : Voltage:100V-240V AC .
Output : Voltage :35V-65V DC . Current :1A
Power Consumption: 65W+/_5%.
To run 2 bars just get a 2A constant current driver w/ 35-65V (or higher) output.
OR run 4 4ft bars in parallel w/ this and w/ added 10V dimming..
SUGGEST seeing if you can find an AB version though
https://www.ledsupply.com/led-drive...K0fgpcpm3K9ATF7AQvkK1LsniEX6bkKBoCKE8QAvD_BwEThere is a catch, but it's actually a pretty good one..@3500mA and 4 bars in parallal you only drive each bar at 3500/4 mA= 875mA
Should increase efficiency and longevity w/ minimal par loss.
Suggest adding 1A fuses to each bar to prevent thermal issues if one fails open though one only shunts the 3500mA over 3 bars 1166mA meaning you could change the fuse to 1.5a..still..1A fuses are best
biggest catch is you just bought 4 Orphek drivers and replaced them all w/ a $90 add on.
If you find constant voltage ones, say something that uses a 12V switching power supply at say 1A you just need to find a 12v power supply at say 4A and wire the bars in series..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/271267654492?var=570182934976&chn=ps
Linkable with 'power in' on one end and 'power out' on the other end (up to 16 total feet of LEDs on one Power Supply/Dimmer)