Cycling an Aquarium
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OP
OP
Brew12
Electrical Gru
You can add ammonia. Just make sure you use pure ammonia, and not one with soap or scenting added to it. Ammonium chloride would be even better like what is sold be Dr Tims.
Your goal should be around 2ppm and see how quickly it drops.
Is this fresh water or saltwater? You need to know the size of the tank, the strength of the ammonia being used, and the ppm you want to use.
You can google Fish less Cycle Ammonia Calculator, the one I have used is http://spec-tanks.com/ammonia-calculator-aquariums/ be sure to select gallons when entering tank size. You should be around 5ml of 10% ammonia for 2ppm in a 60g tank.
When I have done a fish less cycle, I started with an initial 5ppm ammonia using Ace Hardware 10% Janitorial Ammonia, and then made additional application of ammonia at 2ppm.
I applied 5ppm to tank, waited five days from first application, then tested, if ammonia present waited another two days until ammonia tested 0.0ppm, and then reapplied ammonia to 2ppm, waited two days and tested. Once I have three incidences of treat wait two days and ammonia 0.0ppm, I then applied 2ppm ammonia, and test every 24 hours. If the system can clear the ammonia in 24hrs I move on to the Nitrite.
I do something similar to Nitrite, test, if positive wait two days, if 0.0 ppm treat with ammonia to 2ppm, test in two days. When I have three treat, wait two days, and results are 0.0ppm for Nitrite, then I start testing everyday. When the system can clear the Nitrite in 24 hours, the cycle is basically done, now do a water change, big water change.
Just because the cycle has completed does not mean you can add unlimited fish, and ammonia producing items. The system is capable of 2ppm ammonia load, and we have seen how long it takes a cycle to complete at 2ppm, so imagine how long it will take to ramp up to handle a 4ppm ammonia load.
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Brew and Bry.... thank you both for the information. I am probably getting this tank right then giving it away. I want a bio cube instead, but do not want to give this away to someone without it being up and running. After seeing the saltwater tanks here, i am itching for one.
I will know what to do the next time, so this has been an educational experience for me
I will know what to do the next time, so this has been an educational experience for me
Let me add that working with saltwater is like being a truck driver sitting at a dock waiting to be unloaded, they learn how to hurry up and wait... 
Move slowly and only change one thing at a time, and then wait a few days. I would like to make a suggestion that watching Bulk Reef Supply 5mins videos are a great introduction.
Look forward to seeing you saltwater tank in the future.
Move slowly and only change one thing at a time, and then wait a few days. I would like to make a suggestion that watching Bulk Reef Supply 5mins videos are a great introduction.Look forward to seeing you saltwater tank in the future.
OP
OP
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Couldn't agree more, that is a great analogy. Sometimes the best thing we can do in this hobby is absolutely nothing.Let me add that working with saltwater is like being a truck driver sitting at a dock waiting to be unloaded, they learn how to hurry up and wait...
Look forward to seeing you saltwater tank in the future.
I have a Fluval 13.5 gallon tank I am in the process of cycling. I began the cycle by dry feeding on June 8 (I didn’t have test kit yet). My tank has been cycling since then. I applied Instant Ocean Bio-Spira on June 8. On June 11 I applied Dr. Tim ammonia. My tanks has been going through the cycle and now my ammonia is at 0.25, Nitrite has been at zero since June 14. My Nitrate has been increasing now since that point up to 160ppm. Should I do a big water change now and dose with ammonia to see if the tank can clear 2.0 ppm in 24 hour span. Do I does with ammonia again while the Nitrate is still present. This is where I am getting confused with the cycling process. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a Fluval 13.5 gallon tank I am in the process of cycling. I began the cycle by dry feeding on June 8 (I didn’t have test kit yet). My tank has been cycling since then. I applied Instant Ocean Bio-Spira on June 8. On June 11 I applied Dr. Tim ammonia. My tanks has been going through the cycle and now my ammonia is at 0.25, Nitrite has been at zero since June 14. My Nitrate has been increasing now since that point up to 160ppm. Should I do a big water change now and dose with ammonia to see if the tank can clear 2.0 ppm in 24 hour span. Do I does with ammonia again while the Nitrate is still present. This is where I am getting confused with the cycling process. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Welcome to the start of Hurry up and wait.
The ammonia at 0.25 is most likely a false positive. I use the test kit not to tell me that the ammonia is zero, but that it has changed in the downward direction. Your tank does not contain any living organisms?
I do not use any bottles of bacteria, so I do not have the best advice to give. I do not use them as I don't want to depend on something which might be past its sell by date, damaged in transit from heat both hot and cold, and any other issues I cannot foresee. Plus they are free, just have to wait a little longer.
It does look like something is happening from the rising Nitrate, and I'm guessing you now have a test kit for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate? And the numbers you are presenting in the chart are measured numbers from those test kits?
I would bring ammonia up to 2ppm, test for ammonia and Nitrite after 6-8 hours, then repeat the ammonia and Nitrite test in 24 hours after ammonia application. This will show a change for both Ammonia and Nitrite after six hours, and then a change for both after 24 hrs. If both the Ammonia and Nitrite can clear in 24 hrs you should be done. Just do not over load the system by adding too much ammonia producing organisms, take it slowly.
Best of luck.
The API test is berated by many, but I love the API ammonia test because it is cheap, sensitive to Ammonia change, and that is all I want to see. It does seem to give a 0.25 yellow color even with no Ammonia.
So go ahead and do as I suggested, and see what results you get. Six hours after applying the Ammonia you should see a color change other than yellow for Ammonia, and also a color change for Nitrite, and then 24 hours later, everything should have changed again back towards zero.
OP
OP
Brew12
Electrical Gru
I agree with @Bryn but don't be surprised if you do not see any nitrite. These bacteria seem to be the most sensitive to storage in a bottle. With a fresh bottle of Biospira it isn't uncommon to never see nitrite as it is converted to nitrate as quickly as it is produced.
So quick update did the ammonia drops and ran a test. I am sitting at 2pm of ammonia and Nitrite is either 2.00 or 5.00 the two purples look almost the same. I will give another update tomorrow to see where the numbers are at.
Brilliant. Check them 24 hours from now, and watch the color change will give us a good idea what is happening.
So after my 24 hour test after dosing ammonia.
So after dosing ammonia up to 2.0 and waiting 24 hours. My numbers were Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0 and Nitrate 20ppm. The color test on Nitrate is annoying in picture looks red but when I go outside and hold up in light it looks orange.
So after my 24 hour test after dosing ammonia.
So after dosing ammonia up to 2.0 and waiting 24 hours. My numbers were Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0 and Nitrate 20ppm. The color test on Nitrate is annoying in picture looks red but when I go outside and hold up in light it looks orange.
This is great news. I would feel comfortable that you have cycled. Just remember that your systems is still rather young, and that over loading your system with Ammonia producing organisms should be avoided.
Move to the next step of introducing some fish if that is you next goal.
Yes my next step was to go extremely slow in introducing fish. I wanted to get two clown fish I dont know if it is better to get them both at same time and introduce into tank or just 1 at a time. I plan on spreading things out over a few weeks span.
Hi all, I'm getting ready to start my very first tank this weekend.
I have a 90g tank, I'm using Caribsea substrate, and Caribsea Live rock (the purple stuff) 80lbs
I don't have rodi water yet, so i bought water from the aquarium store.
I just want to make sure I get the process right. Set up rock and substrate, fill it up, add bacteria (Microbacter start XLM), then add ammonia. and just let it sit until the ammonia tests at 0. Is that basically it?
What ammonia should I use and how much for this 90 gallon tank? Which test kit is recommended? (Red Sea)?
The tank does not havea sump, so everything is HOB. I'm thinking of getting an Apex, is that overkill? I like the idea of getting alerts if I miss something.
thanks in advance
I have a 90g tank, I'm using Caribsea substrate, and Caribsea Live rock (the purple stuff) 80lbs
I don't have rodi water yet, so i bought water from the aquarium store.
I just want to make sure I get the process right. Set up rock and substrate, fill it up, add bacteria (Microbacter start XLM), then add ammonia. and just let it sit until the ammonia tests at 0. Is that basically it?
What ammonia should I use and how much for this 90 gallon tank? Which test kit is recommended? (Red Sea)?
The tank does not havea sump, so everything is HOB. I'm thinking of getting an Apex, is that overkill? I like the idea of getting alerts if I miss something.
thanks in advance
Welcome @Goalie
Place your rock in the tank first and get the Aquascape you want, then glue it together with thick Gel Super Glue. Next add your sand, before adding your saltwater.
You said live rock, did this arrive wet, and maybe packed in wet newspaper? Or was it dry and purple?
I would buy the cheap API Ammonia kit, as you only need to see color change, not too worried about the level.
The ammonia source can be Dr. Tim's Ammonia, which he has a very good set of instructions on his website and how to use. Or you could use the ACE Hardware Janitorial 10% Ammonia, if you have an ACE hardware close by. If you do use a Janitorial Ammonia you need to make sure it is pure and does not have any additives such as sufactants, dyes, or scents. I have been told to shake the bottle, and if it has bubbles are at the top that this is not what you want.
Add your ammonia, then wait 5 days and test. If zero add some more ammonia and recheck in 24hrs, if ammonia is cleared in 24 hrs, your cycle has started and you are on your way, but not complete yet. See diagram below.
I need a chemist to verify what I am about to say, I studied Physics. The diagram below is saying that ammonia rose to 10mg/l (Milligrams per Liter) which is 10ppm (Parts Per Million) peak about the 12th day, bacteria was starting to convert ammonia in to Nitrite, and a little time later Nitrite in to Nitrate. You can see that this cycle really takes about 40 days.
If you use bacteria in a bottle, then this time line is shortened, and my OCD would want me to check Nitrite conversion in 24 hours, to make sure I did not miss something, or that the Ammonia bacteria worked, and the Nitrate producing bacteria was also working.
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It is you money, so if you want an Apex buy it, but $700-800 could be spent I think in better places. I'm a big believer in spending some money in ATO (Auto Top Off) systems, keeping that salinity stable. Spend some money and add a sump, that is a good size tank, it would be a shame not to have a sump, you could do so much more. Add a Protein skimmer. I have just blown your Apex budget, but you have a much better system, and you can act like the controller, while you learn your system. Once you understand your tank, then you can automate. One more thing, a backup system for your heater, such as a InkBird-ITC308.
Thanks for the help. Yes it's the dry purple rock from Caribsea.
I got the tank as a present along with the heater and filter etc. It's too late to go back, and I don't want to upset my wife or kids by returning everything. So we march onward with what we have. I do have an Octopus 2000 skimmer on the way. There's no space for a fish room or place to keep water stored for a top off system or stuff like that. I will go check out that inkbird, thanks for the tip.
I got the tank as a present along with the heater and filter etc. It's too late to go back, and I don't want to upset my wife or kids by returning everything. So we march onward with what we have. I do have an Octopus 2000 skimmer on the way. There's no space for a fish room or place to keep water stored for a top off system or stuff like that. I will go check out that inkbird, thanks for the tip.
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