DI COLOR CHANGE RESIN

[Silent]

Really nice to see everyone trying to help. Hopefully OP will save lots of money now and have a good working system.

 

[clm65]

Findings so far:
*Concentrate tube was plumbed to the DI
Fix: Re-plumb unit correctly
*Very low system pressure even with booster pump. Found that system did not have a flow restrictor.
Fix: Install flow restrictor sized for cold feedwater in NH.

Russ

Thanks for posting the findings and solutions Russ. And I didn’t realize water temperature was an input to restrictor sizing. Makes sense, but I’ve only seen flow restrictors matched to membrane capacity (gpd).

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Flow restrictors (https://www.buckeyehydro.com/capillary-flow-restrictors/ ) are rated based upon the flow they will pass at 60 psi and 77 F. Same temperature and pressure specs used by most membrane manufacturers (with a notable exception being Filmtec - the best in the biz. They use 50 psi and 77F).

So let's say you use a 75 gpd membrane and you feed it 48 psi and 58F water. Using our calculator ( https://www.buckeyehydro.com/calculator/ ), you find that your 75 membrane will only produce 49 gpd. So, assuming you have typical hard water, you'd want about 4 x 49 gpd in concentrate flow. 4 x 49 = 196 gpd.

Flow restrictors are rated in ml/min rather than gpd. So, if you do the mathematical conversion, you'd find 196 gpd = 515 ml/min. You're in luck. There are flow restrictors rated at 525 ml (typically used with a 50 gpd membrane).

These mathematical gyrations confuse lots of people, so a quick and dirty approach if you have cold water or low pressure is to go one level of flow restrictor tighter (less flow) than the rating of your membrane.

Russ

 

[renato120]

Just got the system working thanks to all of you. A big thank you to Russ @Buckeye Hydro I just got out of the phone with Him. Very nice guy! And we found out that my membrane is not good too. Its pretty much feeding dirty water to my DI. I have a new membrane, and some extra parts, on the way.
By next week the system will be working the way it should hopefully. Thanks again guys! You guys are the best!!!!!

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

And a triple probe tds meter coming as well.

 

[renato120]

And a triple probe tds meter coming as well.

Already ordered! Thanks again!

 

[renato120]

Really nice to see everyone trying to help. Hopefully OP will save lots of money now and have a good working system.

I cant believe this lol! I’m happy! Its ridiculous how much money monthly I was spending.... imagine in 5+ years....

 

[Silent]

This is a great community with people always willing to help.

 

[fcmatt]

I used to live in nashua. The water was not that bad. Resin should last much much longer.

 

[Technewb]

Glad you got it sorted out. Remember everytime you make RO water, you should flush the membrane for a few minutes before you connect to DI. Now time to buy some frags with all the $ you will be saving.

 

[renato120]

Do you guys leave the RODI on when not using it, Or you shut off the system. My stays on with the float valve shutting off the water. Its almost 80psi.
will that waste the DI?

 

[renato120]

For an exemplo: I made some water last night. Container got full, float valve stopped the RODI, but the pressure still there. Someone once told me that I should shut the water source and release the pressure of the system. Turn on when I use it again.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Not necessary to shut the feedwater off, as long as your ASOV is working. Will have zero effect on the DI

 

[renato120]

Not necessary to shut the feedwater off, as long as your ASOV is working. Will have zero effect on the DI

Great! Thank you Russ!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

If you go through a lot of it then you probably need to have separate cation and anion resin chambers. That way you will only need to replace the anion which will be cheaper in the long run.

only replace the anion? It may be true that it depletes faster, if you have high CO2 in your water, but you will need to replace both.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Have you looked your municipal water supply report? It is available to the public. I am thinking that maybe you are using a regular carbon block to filter out chloramines, and that won't work. If your city water does use chloramines as a disinfectant, then you will want to get the BRS universal carbon block.

I disagree that it “won’t work”. Lots of folks, including me, use normal carbon blocks to effectively remove chloramine. For my chloramine article, we had many folks test their water.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

It CAN work, but it is probably not the most prudent approach.

 

[hllb]

Can someone explain more about a flow restrictor on the waste line? I have an RO buddy and I don’t think it has one. Does that mean too much water is going the path of least resistance and out the waste line?

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Can someone explain more about a flow restrictor on the waste line? I have an RO buddy and I don’t think it has one. Does that mean too much water is going the path of least resistance and out the waste line?

You would be getting no RO water if it didn't have a flow restrictor installed. So yes... your system has a flow restrictor. If it is not visually obvious, remove the concentrate tube from it's fitting and look INSIDE the end of the tube.

Russ

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

It CAN work, but it is probably not the most prudent approach.

a cheap chlorine test on the effluent is probably cheaper than always buying a cartridge that might not be needed.