Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

taricha

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Poor Man's UV
I wanted to (re)post this, as recently I've seen a couple of people with massive populations of dinos who are not apparently doing any real export. And this idea seems to have been lost in the depths of a few thousand posts. I originally stole it from user nvladik.
Hang some filter floss directly in front of one or two of your powerheads. Let it blow in the flow like a flag. Ostreopsis will attach to floss more than anything else in the tank. Turns out they don't care what they attach to - just looking for a good spot with tons of flow and some light, and they actually prefer rough surfaces to slime coats etc. Rinse the filter floss out daily (or a couple times a day) in tap water until it's white again. Use gloves - the toxins in question are serious business.
FilterFloss_dinos.jpg

(above pic shows the accumulated ostreopsis from a single lights-on cycle in a tank with barely visible dinos, then wrung out into a beaker showing what's collected is 90%+ pure ostis)

This is for those with cells that go into the water - Ostreopsis especially - but it may work with others prorocentrum, coolia, etc I didn't try when I had those. This trick will allow you to easily concentrate and export almost exclusively dinos. It's also appropriate while UV is getting set up - may suffice in some cases as "poor man's uv" , or in addition to UV.

This will export a large majority of the ostreopsis daily. It is not a cure, but it is control for you, relief for your coral and other tank inhabitants, allows you to do whatever your corals need (water changes, Ca, Alk, etc), removes urgency and anxiety, and gives you flexibility for your next move. This is how I had ostreopsis for a couple of months without losing any livestock or it being able to form stringy masses in my tank. Ostis stayed almost invisible while I had filter floss. (I actually never ran UV on my main tank.)

Additional benefits:
  • physical removal of the majority of dinos is an important step in advancing any other treatment plan.
  • prevents stringy masses from forming on corals.
  • turns brown to show you if it's working.
  • can be easily wrung out into a beaker to sample what you have.
  • may possibly work as a diagnostic test for whether your strain is UV targetable / is going into the water. I don't know how well types other than ostis will attach, but the stringier it is, the likelier they will attach.
  • is a really easy tune-up if a small smattering of dinos re-appears.
  • is very selective: removes pretty much exclusively dinos
 

jefra

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Recently have had some success with controlling (and hopefully eradicating) Ostreopsis dinoflagellates. I know these jerks form cysts so not declaring victory quite yet, but I'm like to share some of my strategies to help out.

Background
I have a 22 long (36" L x 12" W x 12" H) nano with a 30 gallon sump and large refugium. I had tried nearly every method I could find, some helped, some did nothing — either way, they still came back.
  • Vibrant
  • DinoX
  • Metronidazole
  • Dosing stump remover and trisodium phosphate to maintain balanced levels of low but detectable nitrate and phosphate
  • Adding more macroalgae: several varieties of Graciliara, Ulva, Chaetomorpha, Caulerpa
  • Removing the sandbed entirely
  • Adding CO2 scrubber to successfully raise pH
  • Adding a new established and biodiverse sandbed
  • Adding additional pods to starve it out
  • Moderately increasing flow
  • Greatly increasing flow
  • Microscrubbing at night
  • Skimming wet
  • Skimming dry
  • Not skimming at all
  • 3 day blackout, shrouding entire tank
  • 5 day black, shrouding entire tank
  • Decreasing photoperiod
  • Raising lights
  • Dosing hydrogen peroxide at night
  • UV sterilizer in sump, etc.
  • Dosing silicate (Brightwell Aquatics - SpongExcel) to feed sponges and diatoms
Techniques
These last few things I did all within a week of each other. I don't know if one was significantly more useful, but I'm attributing it to a combination of all of these things.
  • Added a diamond goby to help stir the sand more
  • Using a turkey baster, at night, I started dosing hydrogen peroxide directly into the sandbed in areas of high dino concentration. This has seemed to expedite forcing the dinos into the water column to be susceptible to my various filtration strategies.
  • Added a diatom filter to the sump
  • Kept 9W UV sterilizer in the sump running 24/7 AND added a second Sunsun 13W UV sterilizer to the display that I run only at night
  • Started replacing fine micron filter socks filled with floss twice daily
  • Started dosing small amounts of silicate to maintain levels of 0.50 ppm
  • Continue to microscrub at night
  • Removed all macroalgae since the dinos seemed to be parasitizing them
 
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Wxguy23

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I finally got my nitrates to around 5ppm
And my phosphates to .25

Today. Shall I raise more? How long do I stay at this level before I notice a decline in Dino?
 

raliugaluis

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Is it a rule that everytime you have the snot with the bubbles you'll have dinos? I see the snot but when I check on a microscope I don't find any, or at least I think so...
 

OpenOcean33

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Im over in the amphdium forum however I ran across this live chat by reef dudes he talks with a guy from a company called elegant corals. They talk about dinoflagellates and how how company gets rid of them. The diagram is about halfway through the video for a 7 day treatment guide. They talk about aeration, dosing bacteria (Dr. Tims waste away/and one nitrifying bacteria) algae oust (vodka or carbon dose), and h202 into the skimmer air intake... listening through it all makes scenes and wonder if any of you have tried this before or heard of it? I am currently dosing silicates and do not want to move from my current plan yet to see if it works for my Dinos. If it does not work I would like to try this method before removing my sanded. Thought I would share from my research.
 

rickster

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Im over in the amphdium forum however I ran across this live chat by reef dudes he talks with a guy from a company called elegant corals. They talk about dinoflagellates and how how company gets rid of them. The diagram is about halfway through the video for a 7 day treatment guide. They talk about aeration, dosing bacteria (Dr. Tims waste away/and one nitrifying bacteria) algae oust (vodka or carbon dose), and h202 into the skimmer air intake... listening through it all makes scenes and wonder if any of you have tried this before or heard of it? I am currently dosing silicates and do not want to move from my current plan yet to see if it works for my Dinos. If it does not work I would like to try this method before removing my sanded. Thought I would share from my research.


I tried the Elegant coral method, and it worked for me quite well!
 

souk

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Are these ostreopsis and will a uv do the trick?

I'm not at home and can not provide any reading and water status. Dinos went away after heavier feeding and I took the skimmer off line. My brother sent me some photos and it came back. I told him to only feed mon, wed, and Friday only. No3 and po4 might of gone down since feed has decreased. I'm soo tired of fighting dinos.

Screenshot_20190315-115338_Video Player.jpg


20190314_153604.jpg
 

Wxguy23

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I tried the Elegant coral method, and it worked for me quite well!
This is interesting.
Question. Waste Away lowers Nitrates & Phosphates. I got to 0 now for both, thus my Dinos. Now I’m at 5ppm nitrates and .50 PO4.
Would waste away just take me back to 0?

I’m still trying, but I’ve also got my tank for sale as I give up. Tank looks awful.
 

travsi

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From an earlier post, I tried everything:
Dosing Phosphate and Nitrates, increasing feeding, lights out period followed by massive physical removal. Nothing worked.

I broke down and resorted to Dino-x. Stuff worked immediately. I am currently 6 days Dino free after stopping the dosing and back on lighting schedule.

Followed directions exactly as on the bottle. Didn't lose a single occupant or coral.
 

Wxguy23

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Why does everyone “break down” and go to DinoX?

Why not use it to begin with? I’ve read enough to now be hesitant in getting some.
 

rishma

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I may have defeated the Dinos. No sign in a couple weeks...yes I know, wait and see. Here is what I did, it’s a bit random, not a real method but I want report accurately.

Raised Nitrate to 10-15 ppm
Raised phosphate to 0.1 ppm
Stopped water changes and supplements except Kalk.
Added 5280 pods
Dosed phytoplankton 30 ml daily
Raised average PH to 8.1 with Kalk and cooperating weather allowed the window open.

After a couple weeks the dinos were definitely reduced but still there.

Lights out 2 days, started dosing DinoX, lights at 25% for a week.

Stopped DinoX after 4 doses. Lights back to normal. No visible dinos.

We shall see. I’ll report back in another week.


Still Dino free. Got some hair algae to deal with but I’ll take it.
 

._Z_.

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Why does everyone “break down” and go to DinoX?

Why not use it to begin with? I’ve read enough to now be hesitant in getting some.

I think it’s considered a high risk item with a chance of high reward. Risky in that it may wipe out your whole tank. Rewarding if it solves your problem for good
 

OpenOcean33

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I think it’s considered a high risk item with a chance of high reward. Risky in that it may wipe out your whole tank. Rewarding if it solves your problem for good
I used it, dinos were gone for 3 weeks.. came back killed my moti. I could have kept going but all the coral was ticked off. I thought of removing all the coral to qt tank and bombing that sucker with dino x.
 

Jonreefer

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I tried DinoX 3 times on my current battle I had with them. I am not sure it did much as I had them beat down pretty good before I started. I will say every time I tried it I ended up losing a mushroom that would melt away for no reason. And only happened when using it.
 

OpenOcean33

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So I broke down and did a water change last night, needed to be done corals were not looking to happy, Dinos still present but not spreading out of control. Nitrates 8ppm, phosphate .34. I tested the water today to determine what I would need to replace (all, calcium, etc). I test again today and nitrates are 2ppm, but my phosphates are 1.3! Do you know what would cause this? I am only dosing micrometer 7 currently daily, sponge excel, and micro scrubbing at night for a few hours.
Edit: Re-tested 3 times and got 1.3 again but the last 2 times .17.... maybe my Red Sea kit has seen better days and needs a new one as it docent seem to be consistent. So im not sure what the true reading is at this point...
 
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Blue Carbon Reefing

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Hey there,

Can anyone help identify this strand of dino's? I have never seen a plague this bad before. I have a really out of balance system with Nitrates over 157ppm and Phosphates are testing around .03. My phosphates bottomed out at zero which is where I believe the bloom started. I have a 1250 Gallon total water volume system. Any part that is lit of course is plagued with Dinos, frag tank, display, and refugium. I would be happy to give any other background information that you might want to know. I have started phosphate dosing and have been dosing an equivalent of about .02 to .03 a day and last test phosphates are up to .06. What else would you suggest would be a corrective course of action? Thank you all for the help!








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