Display refugium effectiveness for nutrient export

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zwalter38

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Technically it’s running. Like I said it was up once, but before going on vacation a few months ago I had my pumps and filters off to feed my corals. I forgot to turn them back on before going and it caused a cyano outbreak. I have got it under control in the main display. But the fuge never really recovered. So the system is still running and keeping nitrates and phosphates semi low, but it’s ugly and I plan on tearing it down and starting again. I’ve taken some of the macros out of it and am growing them out in a separate tank so I have a significant amount to add back into the tank once i get it cleaned out set back up. I just wanna make sure I do it 100% right this time and work any kinks out that the first one had.
 

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Something I’m testing out with an FX2 is their UV-C clarifier which bolts on top and hope is to neutralize algae spores hoping that keeps GHA from growing in the Macroalgae which is fed water post that FX. Fingers crossed
 

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I honestly never thought about using the ceramic media as anchors for the macro algae that’s a great idea. What kind of macro algae would you include in yours?
I would use Ulva, Caulerpa with the balls type, some red macro as a base of red on commercial stuff and this should make your refugium look like a display at the same time.
Personally since I catch my macro it would be two types of Ulva, sargassum and asparagopsis but you can't get that on stores.
 
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Something I’m testing out with an FX2 is their UV-C clarifier which bolts on top and hope is to neutralize algae spores hoping that keeps GHA from growing in the Macroalgae which is fed water post that FX. Fingers crossed
I’ve considered running the UV in lines on both of my FX-4’s. How significantly would it help with GHA? I have been battling a slight outbreak of that and bubble algae since my fuge crashed.
 

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I’ve considered running the UV in lines on both of my FX-4’s. How significantly would it help with GHA? I have been battling a slight outbreak of that and bubble algae since my fuge crashed.
6 watts at FX flow rates should be effective at neutralizing algae although I'm not familiar with this type of UV bulb and they have told me twice that these are 100% 6 watt of UV-C which I find hard to believe. An option is run two. Inlet and outlet as it appears they would fit and flow orientation doesn't affect performance. Hoping it's an effective pre-filter for the macroalgae as GHA smothered mine last setup.

FX UVC BOX.jpg
FX UVC.jpg
 

GARRIGA

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They advertise 253nm and on the phone twice confirmed all 6 watts represent 253nm although could be they are just reading the box and not technicians in the field of UV sterilizers. Researched CCFL specific to producing just one wave length and can't find anything. Going to ask in the lighting sub forum as perhaps one knowledgeable can confirm, deny or clarify.

The FX UVC In-Line Clarifier quickly and easily connects to all canister filters to eliminate suspended algae for a clean and clear aquarium. With unique CCFL technology, the FX UVC bulb runs cooler to last up to 2X longer than traditional lamps. It attacks green and cloudy water by applying powerful, DNA-destroying light emissions at a precise 253 nanometer wavelength. This natural process is chemical-free and will not affect beneficial, surface-dwelling bacterial colonies that are already established. Say goodbye to cloudy and green water forever!
 
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It looks like something that I should seriously consider. I don’t believe it would eradicate the GHA, but it does seem to be something that could help fight the spread.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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One can fairly readily determine how much N and P is being exported by how fast it is growing and being harvested.

That said, reducing N and P is not typically the best way to limit pest algae, since to get N and P low enough to limit algae growth can also limit coral growth.
 
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One can fairly readily determine how much N and P is being exported by how fast it is growing and being harvested.

That said, reducing N and P is not typically the best way to limit pest algae, since to get N and P low enough to limit algae growth can also limit coral growth.
Yea I have heard that very low or undetectable N and P can be detrimental to coral growth. Given the my situation of canister filters and a refugium as the main filtration, how would you suggest I combat/prevent pest algae?
 

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Yea I have heard that very low or undetectable N and P can be detrimental to coral growth. Given the my situation of canister filters and a refugium as the main filtration, how would you suggest I combat/prevent pest algae?

herbivores. :)
 
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herbivores. :)
I have been doing my best to add as many different types as I can. Currently I have an algae blenny, two royal urchins, a hand full of hermit crabs, 5 emerald crabs, a foxface, and trocus snails. My future plan is a tang or a group (I haven’t decided yet), and a lot of tiny cerith snails once they get in stock in my LFS.
Any other herbivores would you suggest?
 

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I have been doing my best to add as many different types as I can. Currently I have an algae blenny, two royal urchins, a hand full of hermit crabs, 5 emerald crabs, a foxface, and trocus snails. My future plan is a tang or a group (I haven’t decided yet), and a lot of tiny cerith snails once they get in stock in my LFS.
Any other herbivores would you suggest?

The bigger the tank, the easier that is, because fish like rabbitfish and tangs and foxfaces will do a nice job on algae.

I've not really focused on the best herbivores for small tanks. In similar threads, some folks have suggested various types of urchins.
 

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I'm going to give Sea Hare a shot in a smaller tank anticipating I'll likely need to supplement it's food assuming it's as effective as claimed on GHA in the display.
 
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I'm going to give Sea Hare a shot in a smaller tank anticipating I'll likely need to supplement it's food assuming it's as effective as claimed on GHA in the display.
I saw one at my lfs yesterday and briefly considered it. But I feel like I don’t have enough GHA to sustain it.
 

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I saw one at my lfs yesterday and briefly considered it. But I feel like I don’t have enough GHA to sustain it.
Why supplemental feeding likely the only solution which I’m told isn’t that hard to accomplish. Can’t find anything else that eats GHA once it’s beyond turf height. Tried a pincushion and not sure if it ate itself to death or conditions weren’t right. astraea were amazing on turf algae as were margaritas and hermits were useless. Interesting. But useless.
 
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Why supplemental feeding likely the only solution which I’m told isn’t that hard to accomplish. Can’t find anything else that eats GHA once it’s beyond turf height. Tried a pincushion and not sure if it ate itself to death or conditions weren’t right. astraea were amazing on turf algae as were margaritas and hermits were useless. Interesting. But useless.
I spent 5 hours about a week ago and set up and old canister filter. I put the output into the tank and I used the input as a suction and I scraped the rocks clean in my tank using the canister to suck up all the debris I was cleaning off the rocks. And then I just siphoned out the top layer of my sand getting all the algae I could. I’m hoping my cleanup crew can maintain it now. If not I’m going to look into a sea hare. The plain looking ones I’m not too fond of, but I’ve seen a reddish orangeish variety on reef cleaners I might try.
 

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I spent 5 hours about a week ago and set up and old canister filter. I put the output into the tank and I used the input as a suction and I scraped the rocks clean in my tank using the canister to suck up all the debris I was cleaning off the rocks. And then I just siphoned out the top layer of my sand getting all the algae I could. I’m hoping my cleanup crew can maintain it now. If not I’m going to look into a sea hare. The plain looking ones I’m not too fond of, but I’ve seen a reddish orangeish variety on reef cleaners I might try.
Using a canister to remove detritus smarter than siphoning out water as it can be performed longer and more frequently without having to replace water.
 

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Using a canister to remove detritus smarter than siphoning out water as it can be performed longer and more frequently without having to replace water.
Yes, but as shown in one study particulate in the water feeds corals. Anecdotal experience tells me xenia loves sediment, also some YouTubers tried no mechanical filtration and got improved SPS growth.
So it's a double edged sword, the canister can make the water too clean.
It's really matter of "it depends".
 

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Yes, but as shown in one study particulate in the water feeds corals. Anecdotal experience tells me xenia loves sediment, also some YouTubers tried no mechanical filtration and got improved SPS growth.
So it's a double edged sword, the canister can make the water too clean.
It's really matter of "it depends".
Don’t need to convince me about the values of detritus but if you want to get it out the use of a canister more effective and efficient then syphoning it.
 

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I spent 5 hours about a week ago and set up and old canister filter. I put the output into the tank and I used the input as a suction and I scraped the rocks clean in my tank using the canister to suck up all the debris I was cleaning off the rocks
Think to op used the canister filter as a temporary cleaning tool to remove algae and dirt and imo is an excellent way to clean. I personally do the same every few months.
 

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