- Joined
- Apr 28, 2019
- Messages
- 433
- Reaction score
- 753
What program did you use to design the stand prior to cutting? I’d love to do a stand of this style for my quarantine system, I should have you draw up the plans! This is awesome!
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
What program did you use to design the stand prior to cutting? I’d love to do a stand of this style for my quarantine system, I should have you draw up the plans! This is awesome!
Fusion 360
Having woodworking as one of my many hobbies, this made me giggle way more than it should have...
Cool I’ll have to look into that and see if I can figure it out! I have 6x 20g tanks and want to do 2 tier design with 3 tanks on each level. Your design looks much cleaner than the 2x4 plan I had originally thought of going with
I just wanted to post another update here- I put in side panels that have the outsides painted white and the inside painted orange. Looks pretty sick, in my opinion.
looks great! what are you using to paint your stuff? looks like the stand base was sprayed?
The flex tube on the return pump had me thinking it was a DEF nozzle.
The flex tube on the return pump had me thinking it was a DEF nozzle.
I had to google that- funny, I see the resemblance!
Im sure most people would frown upon me for using that. Its bilge tubing; meant for drains, not pressure rated. Works great- its PVC, so glues right to other fittings
I've always liked to use flexible tubing for a small section between hard pipe and the return. One because it seems to quiet down vibration but... if I'm being honest it makes the return angles less critical to line up -- which for me is easier.
I'm not sure if I'll use a flex tube on my current upgrade. I've heard it has a pretty serious impact on the flow. I'm not sure if its true but its one of those wives tales I hear as far as pump plumbing.
Yeah from here the issues with the sump aren't apparent. So I guess you were right to take the other route instead of the to and fro shipping. I love how open the sump area looks! I want to do plywood instead of 2x4's this time but I really don't trust my cuts!
Thanks man. I had the same thoughts when I looked at my Red Sea Reefer stand; there is so little material. My stand should easily hold 1000lbs. I can stand on the (unsupported) front brace and it doesn't even bend a little. Crazy stiff, plywood. Cheap too.
The plywood was like $50, and then I used around $40 of assorted materials (glue, 1.25 & 2" screws, wood filler, primer, paint). Though I guess that cost assumes you have a table saw to cut all of these lengths, as well as a random orbit sander.
I will probably end up buying a quarter sheet of 3/4" ply, to make the bottom area a shelf, and a quarter sheet of 1/2" ply, to make a back (for mounting stuff).
The issues aren't apparent ASSUMING the water under the sump isn't due to the joints lol. I agree it wasn't worth paying additional to send it back and forth. I added thick solvent to the sketchiness, and water testing was good overnight. Though there is a water getting in between the baffles where there isn't any solvent, which is kind of annoying. I figure that'll get clogged up with detritus in time- only clean for the beginning.
Older thread someone pinged on...but it's a topic I like. Namely, the incredible and underrated strength of engineered lumber - plywood. See this video series for exactly how strong and how easy 3/4 plywood is to work with and the size tank this guy puts on it (175 gallon). Notice it's not solid panels. You absolutely do not need the space hogging, expensive, dimensional lumber.