DIY Biopellet Reactor using water filter housing

DaddyFish · Sep 27, 2020

Probably nothing new to most, but here's my latest iteration of my homemade biopellet reactor. Total cost was $25.
Constructed with a transparent water filter housing, there's a plastic tube glued into the housing base at the bottom with holes drilled around the bottom end for flow velocity. A circular piece of plastic mesh at the top is held in place with hose clamps on each side to keep it in place near the top. Flow is reversed with water going in the OUT port and out the IN port so water flows down the tube first. Flow rate in the video is 235 gph.
I will move the unit to underneath the tank now that the construction has proven itself. Here's the Amazon listing for the filter housing...

MAKE SURE YOU CONNECT YOUR TANK FLOW BACKWARDS, with water flowing into the OUT, and out of the IN. That forces water down the inside of the downtube first.

Also needed are:
* 2 - 3/4" male barb adapters
* 1/2" PEX tubing for the downtube (I used a piece of leftover spray bar tubing)
* Plastic canvas mesh (circle works best)
* 2 - plastic hose clamps that fit the downtube
* Fittings for plumbing the unit, silicone adhesive, Teflon thread tape, possibly a bracket for mounting the housing.
TOTAL COST approximately $25

Mastiffsrule · Sep 28, 2020

Nice,

So many things you can rig with these filter housings and imagination. Thanks for sharing

DaddyFish · Oct 9, 2020

The 10" version is working so well on one tank that I decided to try a much larger 20" version on a tank running a Fluval FX6 canister setup.

The FX6 is flowing an average of 500 gph and my goal was to make a 20" biopellet reactor to accommodate that flow rate over 2-3 cups of biopellets (the recommended amount for a 100-150 gal tank). So here goes...

MAKE SURE YOU CONNECT YOUR TANK FLOW BACKWARDS, with water flowing into the OUT, and out of the IN. That forces water down the inside of the downtube first.

The water filter housing I used...

Other materials needed were...
* 1 - Plastic Canvas Circle
* 2-feet of 3/4" Thin-wall PVC pipe
* 2 - 1" plastic hose clamps
* Silicone adhesive
* Fittings for connections, Teflon tape, possibly a bracket for mounting the housing.
TOTAL COST approximately $75

Preferred tools: 1" hole saw, Dremel with sanding drum, X-acto knife, marker, scissors, something for a round pattern that's close to the inner diameter of the housing (I used an oil filter socket).

You make this downtube with 1/8" holes for flow. Holes start 30mm from the bottom end. There are 10-rows of 8-holes spaced 10mm apart, then 3-rows of 8-holes spaced 20mm apart.

The downtube gets glued with silicone over the bottom filter bung. You want it glued to the bottom so it doesn't come lose when opening/closing the filter, and stays put while you pour the biopellets into the surrounding chamber.

The 3/4" thin-wall PVC slips perfectly over the upper bung when you assemble the unit. A dab of silicone grease will also help with assembly.

Cut the downtube so that it sits just below the upper surface of the housing. Too long and it can warp or prevent the housing from properly seating and sealing against the o-ring.

Use the 1" hole saw to cut a center hole in the plastic canvas. Then mark the outer diameter and cut it with scissors. Again, the Dremel sander is handy for getting clean edges and making small adjustments in the fit. Take your time and make sure the plastic circle fits both the downtube and the housing i.d. snugly, but not tight!

Two plastic hose clamps are used to suspend the plastic circle near the top of the housing chamber. Tighten the lower one extra tight. The upper clamp should be a snug but hand-slip fit so you can remove it and the plastic canvas donut, fill the chamber with pellets and slip the donut and clamp back into place.
The plastic canvas donut suspended near the top of the chamber, keeps biopellets from existing.