DIY chinese optical water level sensors

Bramzor

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I'm testing with the IR water level sensors https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32955443010.html to compare them with the Apex Neptune level sensors.
One of the things I noticed that out of the 3 sensors that I attached for 1 week now and put them in old saltwater, I noticed that after a day or 2 one broke, another a few days later and now all of the 3 sensors are broken.
Hence, that is why we test it on a different system :)

Previously I also noticed people posting pictures of the Apex Neptune optical level sensors that these tend to fail. I'm sure they will not fail at the same rate as the chinese sensors right?

So what happens is that these sensors are actually not made to be put underneath the water level. Since I do not wish to drill any holes in my sump and have to mount them upwards, it will always be underneath and therefore be in contact with saltwater.

I assume the only way to solve this is by making them waterproof ourselves? Has anyone tried this? I could glue a hose so the more sensitive part will never be able to touch any water again. Maybe just putting some glue on it is even enough to make it waterproof and survive over long time.

So anyone of you using them and what did you do to make them (salt)waterproof?
 

Gareth elliott

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I know the Neptune V1 optical sensors had a very high failure rate due to water intrusion where the cord connects to the sensor. I have a Neptune DDR dosing reservoir that I bought here on the forums that was BNIB, still wrapped in plastic, that failed after only 3 months of use. I read somewhere (I can’t remember where), that someone was using aquarium safe silicone, like Momentive RTV to seal the junction between the wire and the optical sensor. I wish I could remember where that post was so I could follow up to see how successful that fix was.

Neptune has recently upgraded to their V2 optical sensors. However, because they’re so new, the jury is still out as to their long term reliability.
 
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Bramzor

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When i using a raspberry pi as my ato used these. https://www.dfrobot.com/product-147...eUtZgIwPH4gk60U24fltu2MGmk9jlMacaAtTVEALw_wcB

And made an acrylic hanger that held it facing the water. Was a one inch strip of acrylic, and used a heat gun to bend into 2 90 degree angles to hold it ti the sump. And another 90 degree angle with a hole drilled in to hold the sensor.
Pointing down isn't the ideal one because it can hold a drip. That is why I mounted it the other way around.
So the water level never reaches the cable right? So I guess you are safe. But look out once salt water reaches the cable, it might fail after a while.
 
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Bramzor

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I know the Neptune V1 optical sensors had a very high failure rate due to water intrusion where the cord connects to the sensor. I have a Neptune DDR dosing reservoir that I bought here on the forums that was BNIB, still wrapped in plastic, that failed after only 3 months of use. I read somewhere (I can’t remember where), that someone was using aquarium safe silicone, like Momentive RTV to seal the junction between the wire and the optical sensor. I wish I could remember where that post was so I could follow up to see how successful that fix was.

Neptune has recently upgraded to their V2 optical sensors. However, because they’re so new, the jury is still out as to their long term reliability.

Ha! Reef silicone, good idea!
I assume it just needs a way to keep the water out. Maybe even a combination of water hose and silicone would even prevent the cable from deteriorating over time.
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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So with my reef pi I'm using an optical water sensor and a non contact capacitance sensor :


Optical sensor is mounted like @Gareth elliott has his mounted, 90 acrylic piece. However I use it as a HIGH water level sensor. For my low level I use the non contact capacitance sensor on the side of my 40b return chamber.

Seems to work in testing (tank isn't fully set up), so I guess we'll see how it does over time.
 
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Bramzor

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So with my reef pi I'm using an optical water sensor and a non contact capacitance sensor :


Optical sensor is mounted like @Gareth elliott has his mounted, 90 acrylic piece. However I use it as a HIGH water level sensor. For my low level I use the non contact capacitance sensor on the side of my 40b return chamber.

Seems to work in testing (tank isn't fully set up), so I guess we'll see how it does over time.

I'm monitoring 3 levels and if I need to use 3 of those on the outside, it does not look that great. But if I'm unable to get it work, I will 3 more of those. I already use them for RO watertank and saltwater tank but on my sump, they look a bit odd. Easier to mount 3 optical water sensors on a mount I already made as it is easier to make small changes in levels.

But yes, I do love those inductive sensors as it solves a lot of issues in tanks you do not want to contaminate with wires and sensors etc.
 
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Bramzor

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Small update. Noticed that one of the sensors suddenly started working again. So I took them all out, cleaned them and used some silicone for fixing leaks and applied it on the bottom. Will let it dry for 24h, wash it thoroughly and maybe that fixes them. Also tried it with a new one so I'll be able to test them tomorrow and for another week in saltwater as a baseline.

An alternative could be to first use acrylic glue to bond the plastic parts and afterwards a layer of silicone as a double protection. That will be my next test.
 

purp

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So with my reef pi I'm using an optical water sensor and a non contact capacitance sensor :


Optical sensor is mounted like @Gareth elliott has his mounted, 90 acrylic piece. However I use it as a HIGH water level sensor. For my low level I use the non contact capacitance sensor on the side of my 40b return chamber.

Seems to work in testing (tank isn't fully set up), so I guess we'll see how it does over time.


How do you like the non-contact sensor? Operations wise, you feed it voltage and it just goes high if it senses liquid?
 

LC8Sumi

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I’ve been using this sensor for 2.5 year on my tank. It needed some cleaning now and then (toothbrush), say every 2-3 months. I’ve run it with 5V logic, I think 3v3 is not good enough for the IR beam. I switched to a GHL controller (different reasons) with its own sensor.
 

purp

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W
I’ve been using this sensor for 2.5 year on my tank. It needed some cleaning now and then (toothbrush), say every 2-3 months. I’ve run it with 5V logic, I think 3v3 is not good enough for the IR beam. I switched to a GHL controller (different reasons) with its own sensor.
'
I think we're talking about different things? The non-contact sensor is located outside the container (and thus shouldnt need cleaning?)
 

LC8Sumi

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'
I think we're talking about different things? The non-contact sensor is located outside the container (and thus shouldnt need cleaning?)
I was talking about the sensor in the first post. I’m probably late to the party, and the topic now is totally different, so sorry for that!
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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How do you like the non-contact sensor? Operations wise, you feed it voltage and it just goes high if it senses liquid?

Seems to work fine (has 3 levels of sensitivity) , just attached with a tiny dab of silicone. As far as mechanical operation, I have no idea how it works haha. Mine is plugged into a reef pi hat from Michael Lane and operates as a switch to turn on/off the outlet for my ATO pump.
 

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tygger

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Anyone know how to convert the 4 wires of the Chinese optical sensor from the original post to a 3.5mm male jack similar to the Neptune sensor?
 

Gareth elliott

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Apex optical sensor color coding.

Red -
Black +
Green ground for data
White data

Order for dfrobot sensor input from left (says Dfrobot side)

Red
Black
Green
White

Ok not sure if this helps but how i found the wiring when i took apart both.

i used an rj45 instead of audio jack, simply because wiring and audio jack is annoying.
 

masterofstuff124

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ordered some of the aliexpress opticals to play with. the non contacts on ali reference themselves as being pnp npn rs845 V. it says thats the output. so maybe a transistor is necessary? not sure. instead ordered this model off ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-5V-12-2...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

the non contacts seem more reliable. id like some amount of redundancy for my top off sensors. and then another to simply alert me when my ato is low.
 

tygger

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Apex optical sensor color coding.

Red -
Black +
Green ground for data
White data

Order for dfrobot sensor input from left (says Dfrobot side)

Red
Black
Green
White

Ok not sure if this helps but how i found the wiring when i took apart both.

i used an rj45 instead of audio jack, simply because wiring and audio jack is annoying.

Thanks for the info. Could I simply cut off the 3.5mm jack from the original sensor and solder the 4 wires from the chinese sensor to it? I'm assuming on the original sensor, there are 4 wires connected to the 3.5 jack.
 

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