ramping the copper as the not the best thing as you want to reach level (2.25-2.5) within 24-36 hours. If there is any variance with copper test, can be higher than you see but nevertheless, this fish appears to be moribund which is similar to comatose state and May or not make it.
I have an ORA Harptail blenny in prophylactic QT that looks like it is almost dead. Seachem badge shows no ammonia, nitrates tested at 6.8 last night via Hannah colorimeter. Slowly raised copper to 2.5 over the span of about 10 days and we are on day 9 of copper. Last night I added my third dose of metroplex as directed (2 even scoops for 20 gallons). Three other fish look fine. He was looking as good as ever last night. What do i do?
At this point I'm expecting the worst within hours. He is breathing rapidly. I have seen you mention not to ramp but was following the @Humblefish protocols as best as I can with shift work. Wife says he was eating and swimming fine yesterday.
He is breathing rapidly. He had seem to be eating a ton. I thought that is why he seemed fat. But now he does look bloated. I had noticed poop hanging in the past but wasn't sure if it exactly qualified as stringy and it was not white.
The poop will have excess mucus if an issue
I do not remember it having excess mucus. Should I leave the fish alone or pull him out of medication?
I did match salinities. I am using a 3 seeded sponges that have been running in my sump for a year. Seachem badge has never indicated ammonia presence, I have been doing 25% water changes 3 times a week to help keep nitrates down and showed nitrates at 6.8 last night after 72 hours of no water changes. There is a 4" puck airstone running on high, a Sicce nano 1000 power head and an aquaclear 70. Should have ample oxygen exchange. There are no other fish that are acting sick or breathing rapidly. The neon goby is fat but he definitely doesn't look bloated.
There is a small container filled with sand in the QT. The neon sometimes sits on it but none of the other 3 appear to touch it.
I have been following the protocol from humble fish's website.
Thanks - Don't want to debate another person's protocol - but IMHO - there are a couple things in there that do not follow the protocol here. I personally would avoid (unless there is actual illness) - the use of 2 medications together as a general comment. One thing Humblefish mentions is that there is a different dose depending on the metronidazole you're using. If you're using 'pure' metronidazole - there is one dose. If you're using Metroplex - its a different dose. It's also extremely important (since you can't follow levels) - to know exactly the volume of water in your tank (including your PVC pipe, heater, running filters etc. For Example I would to add to a 20 gallon tank - whatever I was going to use in the tank. Then add the exact amount of water let's say 17.5 gallons. Now you know exactly how much to dose per liter or gallon or whatever. EDIT - FWIW - I was agreeing with Humblefish that the type of metronidazole used with regards to dose and toxicity is important.
All of that being said, would you recommend doing a water change to cut the dosage of metronidazole in the water?
www.reef2reef.com
Are those maybe different forms of the medication? I'm using the powder form which seems to match the instructions from the humblefish link. That says to use 1-2 scoops per 10 gallons. My container says to use 1 scoop per 10 gallons. I used 2 total scoops. So even if I am lower than the 20 gallons that I am calculating on, that is almost half the dosage of the website. So I hope that I am nowhere close to toxic levels.
I don't want to imply you did anything 'wrong'. I was just saying that when a fish is doing poorly - one has to look at the things that MIGHT have gone wrong. I don't personally use the protocol from Humblefish - but - that doesn't mean I think you made a mistake of some kind.All of that being said, would you recommend doing a water change to cut the dosage of metronidazole in the water?
If necessary to dose with that I can pick that back up after I have removed the copper at the end of the 30 days.
I know this hobby is very delicate and there are so many varying answers. But it's still discouraging when you work so hard to do everything "right".
Is this "the protocol here" that you are referencing?
Current Quarantine Protocol
2023 Quarantine Procedures Jay Hemdal David Scarborough Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are by far the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed quarantine process can effectively eliminate these parasites before...
I didn't think you were saying I did anything wrong. And I really appreciate your efforts and time I understand the sensitive nature of this hobby. I was just unnecessarily vocalizing some discouragement on my part.
