EMERGENCY

[leejoohoonie]

Hello reef2reef community! Thank you for clicking and helping me out with this problem. I currently have a naso tang and a purple tang which seems to have gotten ich. The naso tang came from liveaquaria so I believed that they have already quarantined the fish for parasites and chose not to do a quarantine for it. Throughout the past 2 days I believed that the white markings on the naso tang could either be just marking from when they are juveniles or perhaps from stress marks however seeing small white specs on the purple tang today started to get me incredibly worried. I have never dealt with ich so I had no clue if that was the final diagnosis... please help me ):

I have posted a video which I hope shows the white specs. They both still eat very well and don't appear to be scratching on rocks.

My tank parameters are:
ammonia/nitrite = 0 ppm
nitrate = < 5ppm
phosphate = 0.04ppm
temp = 78-79F

Again, thank you for those who reply and voice their opinion! Happy new years and happy reefing

 

[fishguy242]

hi,lets call the Dr. @Jay Hemdal ,best wishes, happy new year to you

 

[Tired]

LiveAquaria DOES NOT quarantine. You should probably start getting a treatment tank set up.

Do you have a photo? The video isn't working for me.

 

[Tamberav]

Hello reef2reef community! Thank you for clicking and helping me out with this problem. I currently have a naso tang and a purple tang which seems to have gotten ich. The naso tang came from liveaquaria so I believed that they have already quarantined the fish for parasites and chose not to do a quarantine for it. Throughout the past 2 days I believed that the white markings on the naso tang could either be just marking from when they are juveniles or perhaps from stress marks however seeing small white specs on the purple tang today started to get me incredibly worried. I have never dealt with ich so I had no clue if that was the final diagnosis... please help me ):

I have posted a video which I hope shows the white specs. They both still eat very well and don't appear to be scratching on rocks.

My tank parameters are:
ammonia/nitrite = 0 ppm
nitrate = < 5ppm
phosphate = 0.04ppm
temp = 78-79F

Again, thank you for those who reply and voice their opinion! Happy new years and happy reefing

Live Aquaria does not QT fish. Divers Den keeps them minimum two weeks but also does not fully QT fish.

You can absolutely get disease from either source and they say on their website that you should QT their fish.

Just wanted to clear that up so you don't go adding more fish to your DT thinking they are QT.

It does look like ich to me in the video which is a much better diagnosis than velvet.

 

[leejoohoonie]

yeah.. thanks guys for the replies! I have added photos and videos however it was during feeding so there are alot of specs in the water.

If the videos dont work, here is a youtube link that I just uploaded if it didn't work here ->

I guess i'll set up a quarantine tank right now. What treatment methods do you guys recommend? I was thinking about trying both a freshwater treatment as well as cupramine but wanted to hear from you guys first..

 

[leejoohoonie]

hi,lets call the Dr. @Jay Hemdal ,best wishes, happy new year to you

happy new years to you too! thanks for dropping by

 

[leejoohoonie]

LiveAquaria DOES NOT quarantine. You should probably start getting a treatment tank set up.

Do you have a photo? The video isn't working for me.

yeah I just uploaded some photos and a youtube link to the video since it didn't work here! here it is again just in case

 

[leejoohoonie]

Live Aquaria does not QT fish. Divers Den keeps them minimum two weeks but also does not fully QT fish.

You can absolutely get disease from either source and they say on their website that you should QT their fish.

Just wanted to clear that up so you don't go adding more fish to your DT thinking they are QT.

It does look like ich to me in the video which is a much better diagnosis than velvet.

what treatment do you recommend/personally use that is best for ich?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Looking at what was a very well taken video. it is ich.
Not sure if you have a quarantine tank? if so- great. If not, do you have or do you plan on having coral in this tank. If not, you can go with coppersafe treatment. Im not keen on pure copper when it comes to tang especially a naso. There will be a few questions here and please answer as best as possible.
a- Did you acclimate fish and how did you acclimate/introduce them?
b- What is your levels for :
Salinity
temperature
ph
nitrate
ammonia

I am very glad to see them eating. When feeding that seaweed, baste it with Garlic extract will will help with immunity system health. Additionally, get yourself what is called Selcon Vitamins for reef food. Add it to your foods every other day and this will assist with overall vitamins and health.
Not sure what other foods you have for these guys but feed these foods which have the vegetation and nutritional needs they require:

Spirulina Brine shrimp
LRS Herbivore diet
mysis shrimp
small plankton
Formula 2 flake and Frozen

On the ich:

This in which you have is called Ich or White Spot Disease is caused by an infestation of the ciliated protozoan Cryptocaryon irritans A/K/A crypto. Cryptocaryon progresses more slowly. If detected early and treated promptly upon an outbreak, the chances of recovery are high. Crypto usually appears as salt-sized white spots visible on the body and fins of a host fish, although it can also infest the gills. Because Crypto is more easily recognized in its beginning stage, it is much easier to treat and cure before it gets out of control.
Again, copper is very effective on Oodinium, and it works well to eliminate Cryptocaryon organisms in their free-swimming tomite stage, it is not effective on the Cryptocaryon trophonts that burrow deeply into the tissues of fish, so the aquarium needs to be treated repeatedly until all of the trophonts mature. Because of the prolonged life cycle of Cryptocaryon, affected aquariums should be treated for a minimum of 3 weeks, which is why quarantine is recommended.
Ideally, you want to place the fish in a treatment tank and leave your display tank UNSTOCKED - meaning no fish for 10-12 weeks. Again if you dont plan on having coral, you can treat with their existing home.
If you dont want to risk copper (which by the way make sure you have a Good copper test kit when using copper), you can use a combination of freshwater and formalin administered by means of dips or baths over a period of time in a QT as a treatment in place of copper.

Also:
Copper is toxic to marine invertebrates, so if they are present in the aquarium, the fish should be moved to a quarantine tank for treatment.

 

[vetteguy53081]

what treatment do you recommend/personally use that is best for ich?

See above. Im impressed with the size of fish they sent. If this was my fish, my preferred ich treatment is Polyp Labs "MEDIC". It is deemed reef safe and it was super fast and effective for me when I introduced a powder blue tang into my tank last spring

 

[vetteguy53081]

Recommended parameters (levels) :

temp 77-79
salinity 1.024-1.025 (while treating if no coral), you can go 1.023 temporarily
ph 8.0-8.3
nitrate < .03
Ammonia < .025

 

[jsker]

Feed vitamin C along with metroplex and focus to bind the metroplex and vitamin C for 14 days. This will help your sick fish and treat the hole system.

The vitamin C is for stress and metroplex is an antibiotic. The focus is a binder for the food so the fish and critter will ingest the meds.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Feed vitamin C along with metroplex and focus to bind the metroplex and vitamin C for 14 days. This will help your sick fish and treat the hole system.

The vitamin C is for stress and metroplex is an antibiotic. The focus is a binder for the food so the fish and critter will ingest the meds.

seriously. . . 33 years for me in the hobby and have used focus over the years and never knew its' purpose was a binder. Proves - one learns something new every day. This combo is also good as suggested as long as fish are eating. His are which is a real good sign (shows gills are not yet infected)

 

[jsker]

seriously. . . 33 years for me in the hobby and have used focus over the years and never knew its' purpose was a binder. Proves - one learns something new every day. This combo is also good as suggested as long as fish are eating. His are which is a real good sign (shows gills are not yet infected)

I would also suggest, adding kanoplex for the total blanket effect.

I had the same thought when it was suggested to use focus.