First time really plumbing....some questions

[shoelaceike]

1. How can you measure exactly when dry fitting PVC won't go in to connectors all the way and when its primed and glued it will?

2. Even i do get all the measurements exact, how do I get the pvc into the sumps bulkhead?

 

[DC Reefer]

1. How can you measure exactly when dry fitting PVC won't go in to connectors all the way and when its primed and glued it will?

2. Even i do get all the measurements exact, how do I get the pvc into the sumps bulkhead?

for 1 use a tape measure to get the measurement inside the fitting. Most fittings have a lip inside that keeps the PVC from going in too far.

For 2 are you on the wet side of the sump or the dry side of the sump. For the westside (inside the overflow) I just push them in and I don't glue them. Not concerned about a leak inside the overflow box. On the dry side it depends on the bulkhead. If threaded I put a little silicone on the male threads and assemble. If a slip fitting I prime both sides and glue.

Also on the return use a ball valve cepex-ball-valve.html which allows me to adjust flow or even stop the flow if I need to do some maintenance on my return pump (external) as well as disassemble the plumbing. On the drain I use a union schedule-80-union-slip-x-slip.html which allows me to dissemble the plumbing. For the union you need to determine if you want slip or threaded. The Valves linked above come with both.

 

[shoelaceike]

Thanks...its difficult to explain my question but the way I see it, in order to hard plumb everything, I would need to bend the PVC to get it into the sumps bulkhead....also, if its not 100% perfect, wouldn't that put pressure on the bulkheads or bottom of tank?

 

[yman182]

I dont believe you ever want to bend the PVC had plumbing unless you use soft plumbing. You will want to make the proper angles using 90s and 45s, just remember that you will lose flow due to head pressure for each 90 and 45 you add.

 

[DC Reefer]

Thanks...its difficult to explain my question but the way I see it, in order to hard plumb everything, I would need to bend the PVC to get it into the sumps bulkhead....also, if its not 100% perfect, wouldn't that put pressure on the bulkheads or bottom of tank?

that is were the unions and valves come in. The allow your to break your return and your drain into two parts that after you plumb them you join together to make a single part.

 

[shoelaceike]

I'm thinking about using 1" black vinyl tubing in each section of the drains to make installation easier....any issue with that?

 

[DC Reefer]

I'm thinking about using 1" black vinyl tubing in each section of the drains to make installation easier....any issue with that?

Not familiar with that tubing - here is what I have used braided-nylon-tubing-sold-by-the-foot.html. It can be pretty stiff, so I heat it with a hair dryer to get over the barbed fittings.

 

[George81]

Measure to the back of your 90s. So for example if you need 24” from your bulkhead to back of your 90. Glue your 90 in place on a straight piece, place it against a straight surface like wall or stand or another piece of pipe and measure 24” and cut. Multiplier for offsets is 1.4 for 45 degree bends and 2.6 for 22 to the centre of your bends.

 

[shoelaceike]

Not familiar with that tubing - here is what I have used braided-nylon-tubing-sold-by-the-foot.html. It can be pretty stiff, so I heat it with a hair dryer to get over the barbed fittings.

This is what I'm referring to...its less stiff then the braided and also won't grow algae. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/blac...-rBb3HencCGyuLErREgC9xFVW9t31V5BoCdYIQAvD_BwE

 

[shoelaceike]

This is what I'm referring to...its less stiff then the braided and also won't grow algae. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/black-vinyl-tubing-sold-by-the-foot.html?dfw_tracker=43788-210943&utm_term=&utm_campaign=EL+|+ACQ_Prospecting_Shopping+|+ROAS+|+All+Products&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=7373341438&hsa_cam=11496128324&hsa_grp=111757179109&hsa_ad=475916932266&hsa_src=g&hsa_tgt=pla-1061645496907&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=CjwKCAiAq8f-BRBtEiwAGr3DgT0BZro4kLDCVWBs7jEJT1-rBb3HencCGyuLErREgC9xFVW9t31V5BoCdYIQAvD_BwE

You think this will work? I know the barb fitting will narrow the flow...

 

[DC Reefer]

You think this will work? I know the barb fitting will narrow the flow...

I think it will work fine. I have the clear one in two of my tanks and still get plenty of flow. I think the flow will be better than hard plumbing as the angles are softer.

 

[shoelaceike]

Would this be a better option instead of using multiple barbed fittings with vinyl tubing? (I also need to add a gate valve)

 

[shoelaceike]

I've been looking at some people's plumbing and it looks like the PVC is not 100% level and seems to be on a slight angle....being that the elbows are obviously perfectly straight, won't this put stress on the bulkhead or glass??? I guess this is my main question....how do you get it absolutely perfect?

 

[shoelaceike]

I've been looking at some people's plumbing and it looks like the PVC is not 100% level and seems to be on a slight angle....being that the elbows are obviously perfectly straight, won't this put stress on the bulkhead or glass??? I guess this is my main question....how do you get it absolutely perfect?

And is it necessary to get it perfect or if it is slightly off, will that be ok?

 

[shoelaceike]

As you can see in these pics, both seem to angle slightly out of the 90 elbow....I've seen some better and some worse but if this is ok, plumbing will be much easier then I'm making it

 

[Greg P]

Have you considered using SpaFlex?
Uses transition glue for PVC to Flex but is more forgiving than ridgid pipe, and has no ribbing inside such as what you linked above.

 

[shoelaceike]

I've seen it but it seems very rigid especially in short spans which is what I will need.

Have you considered using SpaFlex?
Uses transition glue for PVC to Flex but is more forgiving than ridgid pipe, and has no ribbing inside such as what you linked abov

 

[Greg P]

Then your best bet is 45s and 90s.
Use enough unions and I prefer threaded fittings. It adds to the cost and length of runs, but makes correcting mistakes SO much easier.
Once you've done it a couple/few times you'll get comfortable doing whole sections without needing to correct errors.
Essentially, being able to take things apart later has always been my goal. Both to re-plumb stuff and save the more expensive parts such as valves.

 

[shoelaceike]

Then your best bet is 45s and 90s.
Use enough unions and I prefer threaded fittings. It adds to the cost and length of runs, but makes correcting mistakes SO much easier.
Once you've done it a couple/few times you'll get comfortable doing whole sections without needing to correct errors.
Essentially, being able to take things apart later has always been my goal. Both to re-plumb stuff and save the more expensive parts such as valves.

I guess my main question is, does it need to be perfect? Are the pictures I posted above ok? Or is anything less then perfectly level no good?