First Timer with RO/DI Advice Needed PLZ

[ReeferRob]

Okay so I finally ordered a RO/DI unit a 5 stage 100gpd unit. I got a brand new never used #2, 55 gallon barrel. A heater and a Seio pump for make up. I plan on picking up a gallon or two of white vinager to rinse the barrel just in case.
1)What I need to know is do I still need to use Prime?
or do I finally get to cut that from the monthly budget!
2)Do I need to re-mineralize my RO/DI water?
Ive heard and seen products out there for this and that it should be done?
3)Do I really need to or will my RC take care of it?
4)How long is RO/DI water good for if sealed tightly?
5)How long is make up (salt) water good for if kept warm and moving?
6)Anything else I am missing, haven't thought about, don't know, or any helpful advice or tips would be great!
Thanks

 

[Jason edwards]

If your using it for salt water you do not need to remineralize it. The saltmix will do that.. If you are using it for a freshwater tank I believe you will need to. You shouldnt need prime because there are no cloramines to nuetralize.
I dont have a answer for the rest of them.

 

[Sikryd]

1 - No
2 - No
3 - 2 part takes care of most of that down the road
4 - Keep it a powerhead in it and it should be fine for a couple weeks (don't know how long for sure)
5 - ~ a month or two is the longest I have gone

 

[Blackhawk Fan]

1+2) No need for prime or any other additives
3)As long as your salt is at the levels of mag, alk, and ca you don't need to add anything to it. I like to raise the calcium a little of RC so I add three tbsp of BRS calcium to my water 24 hours before adding the salt.
4) I can only tell you that mine sits for a week before it all gets used up. Never been a problem for me. I keep it covered at all times to keep dust and whatever else out of it.
5) I make the water two days before my water change, add the calcium once the bucket fills, turn on the pump to circulate, add salt 18-24 hours later over a period of two hours so there's no precipatation, wait another 18-24 hours before doing the water change.

I'm sure other people have different methods and you can just pick and choose what suits you best.

 

[ReeferRob]

Thanks guys! Just got it hooked up!
I know it's a 4:1 ratio but should the water just be trickling, I guess I expected a little bit heavier flow?

 

[AZDesertRat]

1)What I need to know is do I still need to use Prime?
NO. The carbon block removes the chlorine from the treated water.

2)Do I need to re-mineralize my RO/DI water?
NO. Use RO/DI for top offs and RO/DI with a good salt mix for water changes. The salt mix will have everything the tank needs in most cases.

3)Do I really need to or will my RC take care of it?
See above. Never ever add anything you don't have a good test kit for and use it to ensure its really neeed first.

4)How long is RO/DI water good for if sealed tightly?
Almost indefinitely, months to years minimum.

5)How long is make up (salt) water good for if kept warm and moving?
Days to weeks. I only make up enough for a week at a time at most. It only takes a few minutes to make up new saltwater so I don't store much.

6)Anything else I am missing, haven't thought about, don't know, or any helpful advice or tips would be great!

Again, never ever add any additives or suplements unless you know for sure your tank is depleted. Use only quality test kits like Salifert and use them regularly before adding anything. Just because Joe Schmoe makes an additive doesn't mean we need it. If I don't know exactly each and every ingredient in it I won't even look at it. Its too easy to get a system out of whack by adding supplements and additives the LFS convinces you are needed.

RO production is dependent of two big things and a couple smaller ones.

How do you know the waste ratio is at 4:1 did you time and measure it to be sure? You should and most vendors neglect to tell you this or provide a means to adjust it. Shame on them!
What is your water pressure at the membrane? What is your water temperature? What is your tap water TDS? All three of these plus the waste ratio affect GPD. The 50, 75 or 100 GPD ( I hope you didn't get a 100 GPD!) is based on 50 to 65 psi depending on the membrane manufacturer, 77 degrees F water temperature and 250 to 500 TDS softened water and an exact 4:1 waste ratio.

 

[gilmour01]

the filmtec 100gpd membranes arent as good as their 50,75 and 150 (i believe) gpd membranes. the 100 gpd only removes about 90% of impurities whereas the others remove about 99%. i believe thats because the 100gpd isnt made for drinking water (so i've read). i ran a 100 gpd for awhile, but recently went back to a 75 gpd membrane. my tds dropped to 0 with the switch...never could get them there when running the 100 gpd membrane.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Dow Filmtec doesn't make the 150 GPD and my personal experience with them is less than optimal. Spectrapure tried them and backed away when they could not get enough to pass their rigorous testing.
Stick with a Dow Filmtec 75 GPD or a GE Water 100 GPD which is basically the same thing, 75 GPD at 50 psi, 90 GPD at 60 psi and 100 GPD at 65 psi out of both brands, just a different way of advertising.
I actually use nothing but Spectrapure RO membranes which are on sale right now at $35 for a batch tested membrane and $45 for an individually hand tested and guaranteed beter tan 98% rejection rate membrane. No one else in the inductry offers that service or guarantee. They are basically wet tested Dow membranes rated at 60 psi and 77 degrees F. but are then treated and shipped wet again unlike any one else. They will outperform any other membrane on the market, I get 99.35% rejection with RO only and with a tap water TDS over 800 going in.

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