Fishless Cycle slowed down

[nazzy]

Hi all. I’m new to cycling. I have been doing a fishless cycle for 3 weeks using Dr Tim’s Ammonia. Ive been dosing it to 2ppm when it drops to zero which was happening in 24 hours. My tank seemed to have been cycled so i added 2ppm Ammonia to start the 3 day test.
After 24 hours, i checked the parameters and PH had dropped to 6PPM, Ammonia 1PPM, Nitrites 0.25, Nitrates 40PPM.
I added Bicarbonate Soda and got PH up to 7.4ppm. Next day did a water change and the Nitrates went down to 20PPM.
The issue is that for the past few days since i added Ammonia, the Ammonia and Nitrites are now stuck at 1ppm and 0.25ppm respectively. I’m not sure what to do now. My tank seems to have slowed down and isn’t budging

 

[TX_REEF]

Welcome, some q's for you:

• Tank size?
• Filtration/flow equipment running?
• What salt are you using? I wouldn't expect Ph to drop during cycle and most salt is going to start you at 8.2 ph or so
• What did you use as a bacteria source? Liquid product? live rock?

 

[nazzy]

The tank is 200 litres. I have two filters in there. A small one on one side that produces aeration and a large Fluval. I used a liquid bacteria.

 

[Subsea]

“The issue is that for the past few days since i added Ammonia, the Ammonia and Nitrites are now stuck at 1ppm and 0.25ppm respectively. I’m not sure what to do now. My tank seems to have slowed down and isn’t budging“

After water change when nitrates went from 40 to 20ppm, what are the nitrates now?

 

[TX_REEF]

"liquid bacteria" is quite vague, any detail? If it's truly stalled, more bacteria may be warranted

 

[Fish Fan]

Sorry you're having some trouble here.

Please know that many here at R2R would tell you that the API test kits are not the most accurate and reliable, so take all your results with a grain of salt, so to speak.

The API test kit is known to always show a little ammonia, usually around 0.25 ppm, even when there's likely much less present. Likewise for nitrite too. And, if nitrites are present, they will give you a false high reading on your nitrate test, which is true of most test kits, not just API.

I doubt very much that your pH was ever as low as 6. I don't believe that's possible in a typical marine tank. Your rocks and sand (assuming you have typical calcium carbonite rocks) buffer the pH, and won't let it drop below about 7.6, unless something crazy is going on, like an extreme amount of CO2 in the water, or possibly a very low salinity.

You can always add some extra bottled bacteria, that almost never hurts, unless you really overdose it. But I'd suggest stopping with the baking soda and other additives until you get a firm handle on where the parameters really are.

You may try taking a sample of water to your Local Fish Store (LFS) and ask them to test your water, assuming they are not also using the API kits.

Going forward, many seem to like the Salifert brand test kits, they are inexpensive, reliable, and easy to read/use.

 

[nazzy]

“The issue is that for the past few days since i added Ammonia, the Ammonia and Nitrites are now stuck at 1ppm and 0.25ppm respectively. I’m not sure what to do now. My tank seems to have slowed down and isn’t budging“

After water change when nitrates went from 40 to 20ppm, what are the nitrates now?

It’s still around 20PPM

 

[nazzy]

"liquid bacteria" is quite vague, any detail? If it's truly stalled, more bacteria may be warranted

Sorry,Dr Tims one and only

 

[nazzy]

Sorry you're having some trouble here.

Please know that many here at R2R would tell you that the API test kits are not the most accurate and reliable, so take all your results with a grain of salt, so to speak.

The API test kit is known to always show a little ammonia, usually around 0.25 ppm, even when there's likely much less present. Likewise for nitrite too. And, if nitrites are present, they will give you a false high reading on your nitrate test, which is true of most test kits, not just API.

I doubt very much that your pH was ever as low as 6. I don't believe that's possible in a typical marine tank. Your rocks and sand (assuming you have typical calcium carbonite rocks) buffer the pH, and won't let it drop below about 7.6, unless something crazy is going on, like an extreme amount of CO2 in the water, or possibly a very low salinity.

You can always add some extra bottled bacteria, that almost never hurts, unless you really overdose it. But I'd suggest stopping with the baking soda and other additives until you get a firm handle on where the parameters really are.

You may try taking a sample of water to your Local Fish Store (LFS) and ask them to test your water, assuming they are not also using the API kits.

Going forward, many seem to like the Salifert brand test kits, they are inexpensive, reliable, and easy to read/use.

Thanks for your reply. Yea i will take it to get tested