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Fluval Evo 13.5 Build Thread

WIReefer

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I’m thinking about moving the goby into quarantine and monitoring the rest of the display tank. I know the other fish could be infected but right now it’s only the neon. He’s still acting normal but he’s just covered in spots!
Possibly velvet if you can’t count the number of spots.
 

Rickybobby

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Sounds like a velvet outbreak. You need a qt tank and copper. Everyone has been mentioning this to you for a while
 
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Sharkbait19

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Sounds like a velvet outbreak. You need a qt tank and copper. Everyone has been mentioning this to you for a while
I was worried about velvet too, but this was an ongoing thing. Velvet would’ve killed everything by now and the other three fish are doing great. It’s not that I’m not planning on quarantining all my fish. It’s just going really slow and getting the supplies is a little tough right now.
 

Rickybobby

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From what I found some fish took longer to be infected and pass etc you have had many days to listen and get treatment for your fish. I’m sorry. But please don’t buy any more fish. You need to go fallow get a qt and start from scratch
 
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Sharkbait19

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My royal gramma, Snorkel, unfortunately passed away this morning, after a vicious battle against eye flukes. Despite my efforts to battle this, things very quickly went south. Since then, I’ve freshwater dipped Nemo, who was showing similar, though not as severe, symptoms, and have put together a quarantine tank to transfer the fish this week. Snorkel was very fun to watch and brought much life to the tank, and will be missed.
3FB998E3-4DD7-41BE-98F5-40F077C63A10.jpeg
 
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Drewe

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Your firefish will likely die as well

If he doesn't, move him to a QT tank and keep him there for 77 days, and during that time don't put anything in your fluval for 77 days as well.

If it was Ich, it's a very manageable disease. In a lot of larger tanks it exists but careful husbandry prevents outbreaks and the fish live happy and fine.

That isn't something you should bother with in such a small tank. Parameter fluctuations are going to be frequent, especially since you're new to the hobby, and on top of that scooping a couple of fish out of that tank can't be that hard, there is only so much rock to move around to catch them.

Either way, your tank needs to be fishless for awhile. Use that time to enjoy your coral
 
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Sharkbait19

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Your firefish will likely die as well

If he doesn't, move him to a QT tank and keep him there for 77 days, and during that time don't put anything in your fluval for 77 days as well.

If it was Ich, it's a very manageable disease. In a lot of larger tanks it exists but careful husbandry prevents outbreaks and the fish live happy and fine.

That isn't something you should bother with in such a small tank. Parameter fluctuations are going to be frequent, especially since you're new to the hobby, and on top of that scooping a couple of fish out of that tank can't be that hard, there is only so much rock to move around to catch them.

Either way, your tank needs to be fishless for awhile. Use that time to enjoy your coral
I’ve already created a plan- move firefish, leave fallow for three months. Before the fallow period, I will introduce corals and the rest of my cuc. During that time, everything can grow and flourish, so my reintroduced firefish/new fish will come into a well established reef- ich/velvet/fluke free. From now on, ANY new life, coral fish or inverts, I introduce will be quarantined for no less than 2 weeks.
 

Dark_Knightt

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Right now, because I just filled it, the salinity is 1.027, so a bit too high, but I’m looking to amend that. I’m scared about the damsel but the yellowtail is SOOO beautiful. I might drop it tho in favor of a clown pair. If not, I’ll add it last so it isn’t so territorial.
Aren’t pistol shrimp aggressive?
In situations like this jus take out saltwater with a 2 litres jug or smth and then just replace it with freshwater.
 
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Sharkbait19

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Update: I’ve expanded my clean up crew, adding a margarita snail (named “jimmy buffet”) and a peppermint shrimp (named “mint”). My plan is to finish my cuc and most coral before the 90 day fallow period (90 days so any possible parasite dies).
6829499A-B9C3-44ED-AEA2-EA507EA6B334.jpeg

5606795C-2587-49EA-AF7B-529D9D97D3BA.jpeg
34651C62-57DD-4948-95A4-0F26AD7A809C.jpeg

PS - Comet the firefish is still alive and well! He sure is a fighter, and I’m confident that despite the deadly velvet outbreak that recently occurred, he’ll pull through just fine!:)
 
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Sharkbait19

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35BFEFB6-0A17-4B36-8551-68723A536252.jpeg
The quarantine tank is all set with a bubbler, heater, and decorations! Now I just gotta figure out how I’m getting Comet into here...
Also, while cleaning my tank, I tested the water. The nitrates and nitrites are around 0, but the ammonia is at 0.50. Any suggestions besides my constant water changes on lowering this number?
 
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Mr. Fishy Fish

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I’ve already created a plan- move firefish, leave fallow for three months. Before the fallow period, I will introduce corals and the rest of my cuc. During that time, everything can grow and flourish, so my reintroduced firefish/new fish will come into a well established reef- ich/velvet/fluke free. From now on, ANY new life, coral fish or inverts, I introduce will be quarantined for no less than 2 weeks.

I agree with adding the corals and a CUC in the meantime, then letting the tank go fallow for 90 days ***right after the last addition*** (all you'll need is 76 days, but it's better safe than sorry I guess). However, your QT plan is almost guaranteed to fail at one point or another unless you’re lucky. First off, velvet or Ich for example can encyst on a snails shell, a corals skeleton, or a shrimp’s skin; so what would happen if you QT one that has velvet encysted on it for 2 weeks, then put it in the tank? You’d be dealing with this problem all over again. I know you definitely don't want that. Here's a suggestion to remedy this issue, instead QT future inverts/CUC/corals for 76 days to guarantee that neither ich nor velvet ever gets anywhere near your DT. In regards to quarantining fish, I think you should consider prophylactically treating your future additions (More info here: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/how-to-quarantine.232/).


The quarantine tank is all set with a bubbler, heater, and decorations! Now I just gotta figure out how I’m getting Comet into here...
Also, while cleaning my tank, I tested the water. The nitrates and nitrites are around 0, but the ammonia is at 0.50. Any suggestions besides my constant water changes on lowering this number?
I don't know if it's your picture, but I don't see any reasonable amount of surface area for the biological bacteria to grow on except that rock that looks like it has algae; which makes me wonder why does it have algae? Where did it come from? Also, putting rocks in your QT isn’t the best idea since they absorb fish medication (especially copper). My advice would be to take out all those decorations, stick to that single piece of PVC, and get a HOB filter. The reason that many suggest a HOB filter is that it can house a sponge within it; that sponge should provide enough surface area for biological bacteria to grow, therefore keeping your ammonia in check while you medicate the fish. When you’re done quarantining (with meds) your fish, throw the sponge out and then put a new one in the DT for at least one month to build up enough biological bacteria for the next quarantine phase that should come along with every new addition. Now, since I’m assuming you didn’t take that rock out of your infected DT and put it in the QT I don’t think your tank is even cycled. To get it to cycle quickly, get some bio-Spira or fritz turbo start (must be used in dechlorinated water to work).


The main reason I’ve gone into so much detail is that I’ve now read two of your threads, and it is obvious you need some advice. This hobby is complex and if you want to succeed in it, you need to do a lot of research. The best advice I can give anyone is don’t assume you know anything until you have done adequate research (from trusted sources) on the topic. If I were you I’d discard everything I think I know, then do some reading on everything I think I’d need to know about. I'd begin by thoroughly reading that article linked previously, then go on from there. Just my 2 cents. Keep me updated on that rock.



Note: You’ll also need an ammonia badge (can’t test for ammonia while treating with meds such as copper)
 
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Sharkbait19

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I agree with adding the corals and a CUC in the meantime, then letting the tank go fallow for 90 days ***right after the last addition*** (all you'll need is 76 days, but it's better safe than sorry I guess). However, your QT plan is almost guaranteed to fail at one point or another unless you’re lucky. First off, velvet or Ich for example can encyst on a snails shell, a corals skeleton, or a shrimp’s skin; so what would happen if you QT one that has velvet encysted on it for 2 weeks, then put it in the tank? You’d be dealing with this problem all over again. I know you definitely don't want that. Here's a suggestion to remedy this issue, instead QT future inverts/CUC/corals for 76 days to guarantee that neither ich nor velvet ever gets anywhere near your DT. In regards to quarantining fish, I think you should consider prophylactically treating your future additions (More info here: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/how-to-quarantine.232/).




I don't know if it's your picture, but I don't see any reasonable amount of surface area for the biological bacteria to grow on except that rock that looks like it has algae; which makes me wonder why does it have algae? Where did it come from? Also, putting rocks in your QT isn’t the best idea since they absorb fish medication (especially copper). My advice would be to take out all those decorations, stick to that single piece of PVC, and get a HOB filter. The reason that many suggest a HOB filter is that it can house a sponge within it; that sponge should provide enough surface area for biological bacteria to grow, therefore keeping your ammonia in check while you medicate the fish. When you’re done quarantining (with meds) your fish, throw the sponge out and then put a new one in the DT for at least one month to build up enough biological bacteria for the next quarantine phase that should come along with every new addition. Now, since I’m assuming you didn’t take that rock out of your infected DT and put it in the QT I don’t think your tank is even cycled. To get it to cycle quickly, get some bio-Spira or fritz turbo start (must be used in dechlorinated water to work).


The main reason I’ve gone into so much detail is that I’ve now read two of your threads, and it is obvious you need some advice. This hobby is complex and if you want to succeed in it, you need to do a lot of research. The best advice I can give anyone is don’t assume you know anything until you have done adequate research (from trusted sources) on the topic. If I were you I’d discard everything I think I know, then do some reading on everything I think I’d need to know about. I'd begin by thoroughly reading that article linked previously, then go on from there. Just my 2 cents. Keep me updated on that rock.



Note: You’ll also need an ammonia badge (can’t test for ammonia while treating with meds such as copper)
Thanks for the tips! The rock you see with “algae” is actually an old decoration that was brown but lost most of its color over the years. Also, you’re absolutely right—I don’t know what to do with the qt process. I didn’t think I’d get an outbreak like this, so it’s kind of difficult to get all the required info.
 

Do you have a iPad or similar type screen mounted somewhere near your tank for control or display?

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