Thanks. No worries, on my third one. The second one went carpet surfing.
I see but my question was on the tusk & also if you have QT’ed him.
Oh I see sorry I thought you were taking about the PBT!
Sounds good thanks. Some online stores will say anything to appease to a perception of desire. It kinda of have that tiger fish (fresh water) look with the body style and teeth & some ppl really dig that.
I had him in my observation tank but then read a bunch of stuff about how bad copper was for them and was like oh crap I have copper in my QT and moved him, is that also not true? Seems like a lot of really conflicting info on this fish!
How big would the tank need to be for her? Can I use the sump for her and add a fish and then pull her out of the sump after the fish settles in the new home?
It’s true that wrasses in general “can” be more sensitive to some meds so your attention to detail is right on. Reef safe wrasses are more sensitive to prazi and some do show sensitivity to copper but I believe those were with the harsh Cupramine and testing kits not accurate enough. IME of fish keeping and QTing over the past 17 years, fairy, flasher, and tusk wrasses have a good chance taking coppersafe or power based on the recommended dosage and duration. With that said, care must be given on the tank itself as they tend to jump and will hurt themselves if you have any top bracing or have a hardtop.
The QT tank had cupramine in it already thats why I moved him. Its a biocube so covered, but the dang thing keeps having different issues pop up (mechanically). I have a 10 gallon with coppersafe but it also has mechanical issues with the pump and flow valve and other stuff! Dont buy cheap tanks is what I learned.
Wrasse are prone to ich and flukes and can tolerate przi fine. Problem is QT them in a tank that often requires sand . For the PBT - I would not recommend sump especially if it 3" or more. They can njure themselves in a limited space housing such as sump as thy are very active. 3" PBT - No less than 40b and 5" PBT - at least 65g
Gotcha, thats what I was worried about. Do tank dividers work then to help them get used to each other?
While they can, either they are not stable when inserted and if its egg crate, often fish are injured when they come into contact with the material. Years ago, they sold ones with a hanger to attach to top of tank which were best but I havent seen them for a while. Often they are at up to 29g size
Cool I think I will look into that to keep my current fish on one side of the six footer when introducing new fish. I really want to keep Flo, the tusk seems like a bad option for this tank based on what I saw. What would you recommend for the tusk? He is in my 70 now where no one is bullying him. I know he cant stay in there long term with his size. Do you think I should take him to my LFS? My plan for the 125 is a more aggressive set up and he wont fit in wellWhile they can, either they are not stable when inserted and if its egg crate, often fish are injured when they come into contact with the material. Years ago, they sold ones with a hanger to attach to top of tank which were best but I havent seen them for a while. Often they are at up to 29g size
This would be safe:
Tusk needs a large space with hiding areas and chunky foods (mine gets cut up shrimp, scallops, clam and LRS Chunky diet) when I downsized temporarily, there was none in my 135g until I got the 400g, then I put one in.
Okay I think Im going to give him to my LFS and re home him since I think its probably a tusk or Flo. And I really like flow, the tusk is beautiful but if he is better off with someone else than thats how it is!Tusk needs a large space with hiding areas and chunky foods (mine gets cut up shrimp, scallops, clam and LRS Chunky diet) when I downsized temporarily, there was none in my 135g until I got the 400g, then I put one in.
As mentioned, I had two that got so bad that I had to replace them with a smaller one. Its hard to manage aggression with a known aggressive fish .
