Frogspawn skin receding

[Gatling]

Hi guys,

My frogspawn wasn't having a good time in the flow I had it in so I moved it beside my hammer (which is doing well). The skin on the base receded from where it should be and the frogspawn isn't at 100% either but still healthy looking. Will the skin on the base recover?

Here's a photo

I do 10% weekly water changes and check my parameters 3 times a week. Tank is 4 months old,

Alk: 9.3
ca: 420
Mg: 1200 (bringing it up to 1300/1400)
Nitrates: 0-2ppm
Running carbon baggy

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

I think what you're seeing is the lack of zooxanthellae in that part, not necessarily tissue recession. That can happen in areas that are shaded by the rest of the coral colony.

What are your phosphate levels? I see you said 0-2 ppm nitrates...how frequently are that at/near zero?

 

[Gatling]

I think what you're seeing is the lack of zooxanthellae in that part, not necessarily tissue recession. That can happen in areas that are shaded by the rest of the coral colony.

What are your phosphate levels? I see you said 0-2 ppm nitrates...how frequently are that at/near zero?

When I got the coral, the tissue was all the way down where it was white on the base. I got the coral around 2 weeks ago (along with a torch which isn't too happy either).

When I test using salifert, the solution is always a shade of pink, never white but not enough pink to say 2ppm. I only have 1 fish that I spot feed with mysis in a 20 gallon tank so there is rarely an excess of nutrients. I don't know what my phosphates are, most likely low (?).

Should I over feed my tank a bit to raise nutrients? My hammer seems to be happy currently.

 

[Auto-pilot]

If its receding fast it could be a bacterial infection. Also it does look a little bleached. Your Alk is kinda high maybe drop it a little and see if that helps. Also your tank looks rather new sometimes a new tank doesn't support coral as well as a established "mature tank"

 

[Uncle99]

I might suggest you test and maintain a level of phosphate in the 0.03-0.07 range. To little starves the coral, too much slows growth. After increasing your mag as you suggest, assuming salinity at 1.0255 ish the other numbers look fine.

Corals can repair themselves in many cases, but only in stable waters....

 

[Gatling]

If its receding fast it could be a bacterial infection. Also it does look a little bleached. Your Alk is kinda high maybe drop it a little and see if that helps. Also your tank looks rather new sometimes a new tank doesn't support coral as well as a established "mature tank"

I agree with that, like I said it is 4 months but i tend to get my corals on sale and it's hard to pass on a cheap euphyllia! What is the best way to drop alk? let it be consumed? but then wouldn't my calcium be out of wack?

Looking now, you're kind of right with the bleaching. My hammer could be a bit more vibrant..

I might suggest you test and maintain a level of phosphate in the 0.03-0.07 range. To little starves the coral, too much slows growth. After increasing your mag as you suggest, assuming salinity at 1.0255 ish the other numbers look fine.

Corals can repair themselves in many cases, but only in stable waters....

What is the best way to maintain phosphates? I don't have any GFO running, should I just throw in a bit more food every time I feed?

 

[Auto-pilot]

If your calcium starts to drop you can just dose calcium back into your water. If you are using a two part dose, one is calcium one is alkalinity. you can overfeed and or get coral food like reef roids. If you add reef roids your phosphates will rise for sure