General DIY LED thread

AbjectMaelstroM

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Trying to get an idea if it would be feasible/cost-effective to go the DIY route for lighting on a 48x24x24 120g mixed reef.

I'm still in the planning stages of the entire project and will be DIYing as much as possible. When I comes to lighting, my plan was to go with either SB reef 18"x2 or a single SBReef 45". My question is, for the cost of the 45" fixutre (~$440), would one be able to DIY better or equal LED lighting solution (controlled via reef pi) at an equal or lower cost?

Sourcing mostly from Steve's, but I don't mind going ebay/rapid etc.
 

oreo54

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Sort of..
You can buy 100 3W Royal Blue LED's for $13.80......................
198W at nominal drive current of 550mA.
Figure 9 ldd-HW (wires no board needed) drivers @ 600mA $54.. (up to 220 real watts)
48V 350W DC Meanwell power supply $33.49..

$101.29..

Keep in mind you can mix colors. I only picked rb as an example..

60 degree lenses..
100 for $37..

$138.29

Now heat sinks.. that's sort of the tricky one..
Anywhere from .19 to $11 per inch..

$25 for 6'x12" working surface..
Lets just throw in 3..
$75

$213.29

Then you have wire and heatsink compound.. Minimal cost..

Can't see it much cheaper than that and best to double it anyways...;)
So yes and no....

now if you want to build something that looks like this yet color tunable from this to daylight.. that's another story..
9-6500k10Viosys.JPG


viosys violets from Steves.. 10 =$39
Lumileds 6500K 'fresh fish" COB's.. $174..
 
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AbjectMaelstroM

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Sort of..
You can buy 100 3W Royal Blue LED's for $13.80......................
198W at nominal drive current of 550mA.
Figure 9 ldd-HW (wires no board needed) drivers @ 600mA $54.. (up to 220 real watts)
48V 350W DC Meanwell power supply $33.49..

$101.29..

Keep in mind you can mix colors. I only picked rb as an example..

60 degree lenses..
100 for $37..

$138.29

Now heat sinks.. that's sort of the tricky one..
Anywhere from .19 to $11 per inch..

$25 for 6'x12" working surface..
Lets just throw in 3..
$75

$213.29

Then you have wire and heatsink compound.. Minimal cost..

Can't see it much cheaper than that and best to double it anyways...;)
So yes and no....

Haha I had a feeling it wouldn't be easy and clear-cut. How does one determine how much lighting is needed per tank? Is it watt/gallon?
 

oreo54

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Sort of.. but PPFd is better..and it depends on what you want to raise..
One advantage of DIY is it's really rather easy to expand and change, though both have a cost penalty..

"guesstimating" involves simple math and some on line calculators and luck and faith..

My "forte" if you will.. is over-powering fw tanks..but the concepts are pretty similar..
first thing I ask people is what do YOU want it to look like..

That's where you get better w/ equal $'s.. Like buying Radions and wasting like 20% of their potential..

myData fresh-fish-v2.csv [120°] x9
myData viosys420(2).csv [70°] x10
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux : 33,285 lm
Radiant flux : 133,739 mW
PPF : 580 umol/s
TCP : ‑ K
CRI : 50
λp : 418 nm
Color : #A98BFF
----------------------------------------

* PERFORMANCE @ 50cm
----------------------------------------
Irradiance : 77 W/m²/s
Illuminance : 14,213 lx
PPFD : 316 umol/m²/s

By "dimming" the above violet channel..you get a "purple" tinted daylight..
CRI so most colors are natural and a 10000K look.
* MIXING LIST
----------------------------------------
myData fresh-fish-v2.csv [120°] x9
myData viosys420(2).csv [70°] x4
----------------------------------------

* SIMULATION DATA
----------------------------------------
Luminous flux : 33,261 lm
Radiant flux : 128,136 mW
PPF : 561 umol/s
TCP : 10530 K
CRI : 75
λp : 418 nm
Color : #CBB6FF
----------------------------------------

* PERFORMANCE @ 50cm
----------------------------------------
Irradiance : 62.5 W/m²/s
Illuminance : 14,151 lx
PPFD : 266 umol/m²/s

Remember manuf. of LED's are really shooting for a broad base clientele where you.. well are just one..
 
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AbjectMaelstroM

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What I want is the problem, being my first tank I lack a point of reference. All I know is that I don't want it overly blue. I do a good bit of diving (mostly tropical) and underwater photography, so fighting the blue/color correction is always a fight, but I also don't want to be devoid of blue.

I think I'll have to go with a commercially available light to start, then play with lighting on the side, maybe fot my QT to get a feel for colors. I would love to have a ton of controllable channels, but my reef pi setup will be limited to 3 channels. Though I could always run a Storm X and figure out what I like, then find a way to narrow it down to 3 channels (RB/Whites/UV).

May grab a couple of Radion clone pucks and play Round with them.
 

oreo54

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Had some time so I played w/ spectrums a bit..
you know, most people don't really want "natural".. ;)
Note the tone swatch in the upper left corner.
3.2 and 1.6 ft ones are actual ocean spectrums..
Note the preponderance of cyan/green..
bottom right spectrum is a composite of the LED vs 3.2ft
Light grey is daylight, darker grey is the LED.
dotted line.. not sure. Haven't found a reference for it but prob some ocean depth.. 20m? who knows.

alldepth.JPG
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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I'm going to start by getting a couple of those 5 Channel Cree led pucks from fleaBay and supplement the white and blue channels with RBs and Mint from Steve's. Maybe drop a couple more UVs. Grab a 8up driver board from Steve's and a handful of 700ma and 1000ma drivers; I know the pucks mention rating to 1500ma on some channels but I think they're being, let's call it "optimistic"; plus running them lower should help longevity. For HS get that that 6x12 w/fan. Power it all with a meanwell 350w 48v psu.

Then go from there.
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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As far as arrangement over a 48x24x24 tank..... Would clusters work better than straight rows/columns (grid)?

I've picked up 10 Luxeon K16s, figured supplement them with sunplus whites, blues, hyoerviolets/UVs, and mints... Though not sure how many of each... Maybe 2each of supplemental leads? 3ups or singles?
 

oreo54

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Got to remeber the sunplus series has a WIDE angle native spread.. like 140 degrees..
 

oreo54

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First off 10 k16's will push 93500mW of Royal blue (450nm).. :eek:
Don't think any reasonable amount of small emitters will have any visual impact on the tank.

Adding the violets of course gives you an added wavelength spread.
Mints are just limes w/ more blue (again at 450) Which you certainly already have an abundance of..;)

3 rows of 5 k16's is probably the best pattern.
At about 6" off the water line they only need to be a few inches apart..That's the space for the "colored"

In that inner row I'd pack sunplus whites,violets and possibly some cyan...
single stars..Should be able to get about 40 total.. ;)
sunplus4.JPG

sunplus are fairly balanced from cyan to red so adding things like lime or mint isn't very
productive. Or things like PC-amber unless you have a specific wavelength you want to target..
 

AbjectMaelstroM

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I wasn't planning on using all of the K16s. Just bought 10 to have a few spares. I was thinking of using no more than 8 total (maybe even 6 across 2x24in heatsinks) , 2 K16s per/ft of tank which would give ~67-90w of blue per ft, which I would think be plenty. Add a couple of cool blues to bring down the intense blue of RBs. Hyperviolets to get some of that 420nm, maybe 2 per K16. Then sunplus whites to cover aditrional spectrum and tame down the extreme blue and get to ~4:1B:W ratio. My thoughts on using cyan/mint along with sunplus was to further blend the colors; but I will defer to those with more knowledge than me on the subject.
 

oreo54

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Less colors less blending necessary.. ;)


even 6-8 K16's will overpower any colors.. Good they are there but won't be very visible to the eye AFAICT.

I'm going to refer you to a Jedi.. :)... who has a lot more practical experience in building reef lights than me..

I find that with neutrals, you need around a 1:14 ratio (minimum) of lumens of white to milliwatts of royal blue.

So say a k16= 9200mA of royal blue you need 657 lumens of white or related (in this case he used "warm" or neutral whites though for the calc) "at a minimum"..

So 4 sunplus per k16 though pretty sure it's still REALLY blue.. ;)


See tank but note they are using large white COB's as well

The Toshiba chips are basically k16's..


for fun and ideas.. ;)
 
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AbjectMaelstroM

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Well then.....

Not gonna lie, I have no idea what that graph means. However, based on your earlier reply about K16s overpowering whites, maybe run it off of a 500ma driver and double the white channel (sunplus cool whites and mints) and run them off of a 1A driver.

I'll definitely take a look at the links you posted later tonight once we're done with our dives.

Thanks!
 

oreo54

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Chart just tells you what colors mean and mixing for specific overall tone..
It's just a fun reference in color theory..
And where "pure" colors lie on the chary (outer ring)

Or like the 10000k line it can be many different tones
 
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Wouldn't go with optics. And I'd go with 12 clusters of 1xk16 2xmint 1xsunplus white 1x480blue and 2-3 violets.

Just getting time to get back into this.

Thanks for the info

But if I’m reading correctly, the K16 have a 44v Vf, 1000mA. With a 48v ps, that’s 1 x 700mA driver each if I do 70%. So I’d need 12 drivers and 8.4 amps of available power (2x6 amp supplies- just for the blues).

Then more power supplies and drivers for the other Leds.

Also- heatsink. I already have a 4’ makerslim. I’m thinking of cutting it into 16” sections so I can fit them over the open sections of a 6’ long 180 so I don’t waste lighting the braces. Then ordering another and doing the same. For 6 modules tied together with angle aluminum.

Each module will have 2x k16 and the associated other colors, and I’ll hang 2 modules over a 24x24x24” section of the tank. Each module will have a fan to provide ~130w cooling.

Sound about right or am I out of date again, lol
 

oreo54

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44 (average) x .7 = 30.8 W each = 369.6W..

$106

@ about $200 you can upgrade to a 750W ps..
RSP-75-48

"Usually" one large is close to cost of 2 small in same or like brands..
 
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44 (average) x .7 = 30.8 W each = 369.6W..

$106

@ about $200 you can upgrade to a 750W ps..
RSP-75-48

"Usually" one large is close to cost of 2 small in same or like brands..
Thoughts on the $40 amazon versions?

Adjustable DC Power Voltage Converter AC 110V-220V to DC 0-48V Module Switching Power Supply Digital Display 480W Voltage Regulator Transformer Built in Cooling Fan

And 1 was thinking of one supply for blues, and one for white and other colors instead of one big one. I could, of course, run half of the strings on one, and the other half on the second, so if one supply goes out, only half my lights go out
 

oreo54

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Good power supplies should last at least 5 years.. ;)
Bad ones 2 years..as the power caps fail..

That's what I think of the Amazon ones.. ;)

Actually I suppose it's worth a shot.. BTW same one, slightly cheaper..
Odd..





the Meanwell is voltage adjustable from 41V to 54V DC.

always add 10% to calculated watt output..
405W....for headroom

not sure on either but fan noise and lifespan is important to some..
 
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