General DIY LED thread

[Matt Carden]

3 - 5 watt Zener diodes are around $0.40 each which would cost about $100. The cost without shipping of
2 - HLG-320h-c700b is $160. The smaller HLG drivers don't appear to dim to off due to their specs sheet stating 1-10v dimming. I looked into pretty much every alternative meanwell driver. The LDD option only allows dimming from 300ma to 700ma unless I'm mistaken? The LCM-U should be an alternative but is 50% more expensive than the HLG with 260 Zener diodes.

I was planning to use the
HLG-320H-C2100B until I learned that thermal runaway can cause a pretty serious imbalance in the current going to each of the 3 parallel strings. Apparently there is circuitry i can incorporate to fix this problem but that leads to more complexity.

 

[oreo54]

The LDD option only allows dimming from 300ma to 700ma unless I'm mistaken? The LCM-U should be an alternative but is 50% more expensive than the HLG with 260 Zener diodes.

I was planning to use the
HLG-320H-C2100B

I'd recommend anyone doing the big Meanwells to hunt for the "AB" versions.
You can adjust voltage and current AND have dimming..
Old school ones made you pick. current/voltage (A) or dimming (B).
Or neither (blank)

Ldd-h's go up to 1000mA w/ dimming and max voltage IN of 56.
1200,1500 versions dim but max IN voltage is 52V

Keep in mind out is about minus 4-6v from in..

https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/LDD-H/LDD-H-SPEC.PDF

 

[TDEcoral]

I have an HLG-320H-C1050B that I'd sell if anyone wants it.

 

[amirk48]

hi guys
is this the correct way to solder the leds?

do i just leave one set of +/- on each star empty?

thanks

 

[oreo54]

That's fine.

 

[Aclman88]

Hi everyone! I am planning on a pico jar (~.75 gallons) and want to create my own LED, since a par38 bulb will be waaay overkill for such a small tank. Here is my list of LEDs and items. Anyone with experience care to give any feedback would be hugely appreciated. I am particularly confused on what size driver to use for these LEDs.

Lights: 3 Up Board with 2 Royal Blue and 1 Cool White, 1 Hyper Violet

(Not sure if this driver can power all four lights)


Dimmer:

Power Supply:
(Not sure if 12V is enough for these LEDs)

Also need to buy a heatsink that will fit all four leds.

Anything I am missing? Any feedback?

https://www.stevesleds.com/Hyper-Violet-V40_p_255.html

 

[oreo54]

First dimmer won't work "as is".
those are for constant voltage strips/arrays.
They CAN be internally modified to work w/ the LDD 5V pwm dimming port.
The wiring is fairly easy but not straightforward.
first you would need to add a wire inside the dimmer..
You need to add a wire from the gate of the MOSFET to go to the dim wire on the ldd.
Sounds confusing but it is relatively simple..
Since there appers to have been some Chinese messing w/ the frequency of that circuit I can't guarantee it will work.
Long story and I suspect I've confused you enough already.

Second just add voltages up and add 3v to get the power supply minimum if you are only using the one ldd.

Make it easy and fool proof ..assume each needs 4V so 4x 4 = 16V plus 3 = 19V.
Get a 24V switching power supply.
Also just "because" (no figuring necessary) and power supply rated at 1A or greater (24 or greater watts).

Personally I never use less that 22ga for any power wires (i.e long runs) but it's probably fine at 24.
24 in short distances isn't an issue.

Make sure the 3 up is wired in series.

More on the modification.. Pretend the tc-420 is your manual dimmer.
also since your power supply will be 12v the buck converter isn't necessary but the parallel wiring needs to be the same.
12V power supply will run both the dimmer and the leds

Connecting high power LEDs to the TC420

How to connect high power LEDs to the TC420.

www.tc420.net

 

[Aclman88]

First dimmer won't work "as is".
those are for constant voltage strips/arrays.
They CAN be internally modified to work w/ the LDD 5V pwm dimming port.
The wiring is fairly easy but not straightforward.
first you would need to add a wire inside the dimmer..
You need to add a wire from the gate of the MOSFET to go to the dim wire on the ldd.
Sounds confusing but it is relatively simple..
Since there appers to have been some Chinese messing w/ the frequency of that circuit I can't guarantee it will work.
Long story and I suspect I've confused you enough already.

Second just add voltages up and add 3v to get the power supply minimum if you are only using the one ldd.

Make it easy and fool proof ..assume each needs 4V so 4x 4 = 16V plus 3 = 19V.
Get a 24V switching power supply.
Also just "because" (no figuring necessary) and power supply rated at 1A or greater (24 or greater watts).

Personally I never use less that 22ga for any power wires (i.e long runs) but it's probably fine at 24.
24 in short distances isn't an issue.

Make sure the 3 up is wired in series.

More on the modification.. Pretend the tc-420 is your manual dimmer.
also since your power supply will be 12v the buck converter isn't necessary but the parallel wiring needs to be the same.
12V power supply will run both the dimmer and the leds

Connecting high power LEDs to the TC420

How to connect high power LEDs to the TC420.

www.tc420.net

I will be honest, I understood very little of the first half of your post.

To confirm what I did understand:
- wire all LEDs in series
-get a 24V DC power supply
-24Ga is okay but preferred is 22ga
- driver I shared is fine but I cannot use the dimmer I shared
- the TC-420 works as a dimmer and timer (but not as a driver?)

 

[oreo54]

Tc420 is a controller..not a driver yes
I posted it because it works on the same principal as the manual dimmer..it is just automated.
You can (normally) use that dimmer but not how it was intended.
Internally it uses a 5v pwm applied to the switch. ( Mosfet) to turn the power on and off to the leds (dimming) that are run differently (constant voltage) .

in your case you don't need to do that. You only need the signal. 5v ...
That is what the ldd needs.

Wiring all leds is best in series plus minus plus minus...ect.
Voltages add in series. Each diode has a specific voltage at a specific current (a
simplification)..

My dimmer inside w) the orange wire added.
The gate circuit to the mosfet ( bottom right ic).
That wire is 5v and "pulses" to dim the ldd

 

[oreo54]

Addendum.. The dimmer needs power to work. Wire it in parallel to the LED branch.
If your strings ever go beyond 24V (or less than 9v) you need to change how it's wired but doesn't apply here.

2.95 + 2.95 + 2.5V + 3.6V @ 700mA = 12V + 3V = 15V
Total 8.4 watts
More accurate than first one..

 

[Dukereefnz]

What power supply would you recommend for a Blue Acro Led build?
Plan is 4 x 48W Mega4Z pro's, plus 2 x T5's

2 x 800mm long heatsinks with 2 pucks on each - no cooling fan, Reef pi controller (Robotank)
I have this wiring drawing - 36V @ 192W total. Add some head space 350W?
BA MicroDrivers x 4 V2

What is a good power supply option?

What T5 tubes would you recommend?
2 x Osram 21/39W Dim ballasts

How would you space the Mega4Z's on the heatsinks?

Did I mention I would also like a moon light..........

 

[stefanm]

I believe you'll need 8 drivers, so if you have 4 blue acro 2up drivers it would be correct. Something like the meanwell lrs350-36 would be okay, but you may as well get the 48v version so you have some headroom. I would definitely advise fans unless you are running less than 450ma.

You probably won't need the T5's I had some over my tank, personally hated the look, however they also put out a lot of heat my chiller was perpetually on. I would do an actinic and maybe a purple plus from ATI.

 

[Dukereefnz]

What about the look you did not like?
Is it too blue?
Will the actinic help add some white?

Thanks for your input.

 

[stefanm]

What about the look you did not like?
Is it too blue?
Will the actinic help add some white?

Thanks for your input.

It was too green and loss of shimmer, my tang hated it spent most the time hiding if anyone was close to the tank...

 

[Dukereefnz]

It was too green and loss of shimmer, my tang hated it spent most the time hiding if anyone was close to the tank...

Bugger - what T5’s could help lift the colour?

Not keen on the green, can this channel be turned down? I have 4 channel control for the leds?

 

[stefanm]

Bugger - what T5’s could help lift the colour?

Not keen on the green, can this channel be turned down? I have 4 channel control for the leds?

The leds that you have are very well thought out, reef-pi does a great job with the lighting you can see below on my white channel I've limited it to 70% it's running on a 500ma driver, I max out at 100% but it's at 70%.

Maybe @theatrus can guide you better as he had designed the clusters and drivers.

 

[Dukereefnz]

What power supply would you recommend for a Blue Acro Led build?
Plan is 4 x 48W Mega4Z pro's, plus 2 x T5's

2 x 800mm long heatsinks with 2 pucks on each - no cooling fan, Reef pi controller (Robotank)
350W?
BA MicroDrivers x 4 V2

What is a good power supply option?
Do i need the voltage to be adjustable - 36v for 2 leds?

Mean Well Original SE-350-48 Single Output Switching Power Supply 48V 7.3A 350W​

or do I need 36V only?

 

[stefanm]

What power supply would you recommend for a Blue Acro Led build?
Plan is 4 x 48W Mega4Z pro's, plus 2 x T5's

2 x 800mm long heatsinks with 2 pucks on each - no cooling fan, Reef pi controller (Robotank)
350W?
BA MicroDrivers x 4 V2

What is a good power supply option?
Do i need the voltage to be adjustable - 36v for 2 leds?

Mean Well Original SE-350-48 Single Output Switching Power Supply 48V 7.3A 350W​

or do I need 36V only?

48v is better, you'll have more headroom.

 

[oreo54]

36v can be trimmed up to 40v.
48 to 56.
Both are 350w.
To answer the question correctly one need , at the least, the real voltage at your drive current of choice.

To avoid any need to measure at all or uf you think you might add a puck, get the 48.
You can trim it down to 41v.

Closer to actual voltage out is usually recommended but not sure it makes THAT much difference w/ switching drivers and switching power supplies.

"I" would probably get the 48V...just because.
Only a large price difference would change my mind

The usual 10% wattage factor certainly doesn't apply. You are good till 315W.

 

[Dukereefnz]

Stupid question.... 2 leds = 36V
How can I use 48?
Does it need to be adjustable?

3 leds - 48V
2 leds - 36v

what am I missing here to use 48V with 2 Leds?
I like the idea of lots of head room so the power supply is just hummming along.

thanks