Getting by with sub-optimal

oreo54

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That 4 pin is the timer port correct?
The timer dimmer will plug in there..

24V is unusual in the Beamswork line AFAICT but not out of "standard" range.
http://www.ebaystores.com/topdogsel...Z1QQ_sidZ412695299QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322

6,12,15,21V are current power supplies.. now 24.. yea must be old.

Send pic of this to topdogsellers on ebay. He's been selling Beamsworks for a long time.

current port..
613V0mfqvTL._AC_SX679_.jpg



LED board is nothing but series/parallel rows of diodes w/ resistors and some ancillary support stuff. The 4 pins is just channels.

Now I'm more curious about the PAR since leds do fade (usually slowly) and will fade fast if driven too hot.
 
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chadfish

chadfish

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Without actually measuring PAR or knowing any of the stats for the LED's or drivers on the Beamswork, it's hard to say for sure. I did find a blurb on AliBaba that says the Beamswork lights use a 35w power supply, which tells me it's really not pushing the LED's very hard at all. The other concern I'd have is that only 10 of the LED's are really in the proper wavelength to generate PAR

Are you saying that you have this AND the 30" orbit fixture? Any info on what that one is? The combination may be enough for some moderate light corals.
I measured the PAR with my local club's meter. Here's the post:
 

hhaase

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Excellent! I’d actually say your light appears to be well suited toward a soft / LPS tank with some less light hungry SPS on the higher rocks. The PAR range in your tests is quite good for that purpose.

Should grow out to a nice looking tank.
 

Making themselves at home: Have you intentionally done anything in your aquarium to enhance the natural behavior of your fish?

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