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Any ideas how to un glue schedule 40 or is my only option to unscrew and cut and push through the overflow box?
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Any ideas how to un glue schedule 40 or is my only option to unscrew and cut and push through the overflow box?
Only The Lord can unglue PVC pipe.Any ideas how to un glue schedule 40 or is my only option to unscrew and cut and push through the overflow box?
May be worth a try. If this really works it could be especially handy in an emergency so you can reuse the fitting.
I thought that about the glue (or lack of) also...may have to try this out for the sake of science lolI didn't see any primer or glue on the valve or pipe in reef bums video, though in theory, heating the plastic could allow it to release.
I thought so, too but over the past few weeks watched an installer from Iwaki remove glued in pipes from bulkhead fittings with a heat gun and needle nose vise grips while replumbing our aquatics facility. He gave the bulkhead surfaces a light sanding after removing the pipe and used them again with no issues. He did say to that you need to use primer when regluing these fittings. Obviously it is not worth the trouble for bulkheads that cost a couple of dollars each but he said these 2' and 3" bulkheads were pricey enough to make it worth his while.Once cemented, PVC cannot be unglued and reused. The cement creates a chemical weld that essentially combines the two cemented parts into one part on a molecular level. When you do remove and re-plumb, you could put a threaded union in the pipe below the bulkhead a few inches so that in the future you can disconnect it if you need to. Don't cement the pvc inside the overflow box so that it can be removed easily in the future too if needed. This arrangement will allow you to essentially remove and be able to reinstall all the pvc from the threaded union up or down as smaller assemblies if you need to.
Cheers!
This sounds like a case of could vs should.I
I thought so, too but over the past few weeks watched an installer from Iwaki remove glued in pipes from bulkhead fittings with a heat gun and needle nose vise grips while replumbing our aquatics facility. He gave the bulkhead surfaces a light sanding after removing the pipe and used them again with no issues. He did say to that you need to use primer when regluing these fittings. Obviously it is not worth the trouble for bulkheads that cost a couple of dollars each but he said these 2' and 3" bulkheads were pricey enough to make it worth his while.
It sounds like you have discovered the merits in leaving extra space between plumbing part connections whenever its practical to do so. Ive cut plumbing countless times on different jobs over the years and have always appreciated when a simple coupler would allow me to reuse the same expensive gate valve or avoid having to rebuild an entire plumbing assemby.I tried using a heat gun on mine first and the pipe just turned all rubbery and stretched apart. I was able to cut with enough room to reuse my gate and union ball valves or I probably would have tried a little harder, ha.
Perhaps so, but the bulkhead was surprisingly smooth surfaced after the pipe was removed. This is going in a dedicated aquatics facility at work with epoxy-coated floor and floor drains so I am not as concerned about the possibility of leaks as if it were in my living room. So far no leaks...This sounds like a case of could vs should.
It was worth his while to do it that way, but was it worth yours? The cost of water damage from a leak is potentially much greater than the cost of new bulkheads.
oh sweet sweet floor drains. Those are so great to have.Perhaps so, but the bulkhead was surprisingly smooth surfaced after the pipe was removed. This is going in a dedicated aquatics facility at work with epoxy-coated floor and floor drains so I am not as concerned about the possibility of leaks as if it were in my living room. So far no leaks...