Guide to the Triton Method

[Scott.h]

I've been out of the hobby for almost 6 years and everything has changed. I have 2 40 g breeders that I'm going to be setting up as a mixed reef and sump (yay for the awesome Lowe's rack that perfectly fits 2 40g b above and below!) and stumbled upon the Triton method which seems perfect for me, but I have several questions I can't find answers to.

1- Why 10%-20% fuge? Why not 10% +? What happens if more than 20% of your system is a fuge? A mandarin is on my must have list so I had already planned on at least 1/3rd of the sump being a fuge.
2- What about replacing the salt lost to salt creep? If you aren't doing water changes, how do you ensure stable salinity?
3- No kalk? Am I really reading that right? When I left the hobby, ATOs were only a DIY option and now it seems everyone adds kalk to their ATOs. With Triton, ATOs are RO/DI only?
4- Marinepure in the sump is ok with Triton, right? Which chamber would be best to put that in (probably going to use the balls not the block)?
5- In theory, one could get by with a generous fuge, work horse of a skimmer, high turnover return pump, dosing according to what Triton's tests tell you, and no other equipment/supplements (carbon/gfo/kalk reactor/etc. Other than lights/powerheads/dosing pumps, obviously), right?
6- Is a deep sand bed in the DT ok? A yellow-headed pearly jawfish is another of my must haves and he needs a DSB. It's just in the fuge where sand is a waste/problem? I'll be using black sand (1/3rd CaribSea Black Tahitian Moon 2/3rds National Geographic black sand. The NG says it raises the pH... Hopefully that's a good thing in this case?).
7- Is this method ok with clams and scallops? I prefer to use as many different types of biological vs mechanical filtration as possible, but I don't want them to starve or tank. Is adding phytoplankton periodically a no-no or a yes-yes with Triton?
8- I see chaeto being touted as THE algae to use with Triton, but what about other algae or mangroves? I would assume mangroves would help pull out some things the chaeto can't?

Sorry if my post is rather potato. Getting back into the hobby is like re-learning a language you haven't spoken in 6 years. We don't PCS for another 6-9 months so I'm taking my time researching and hoping someone will create a Triton For Dummies tutorial and be able to see more results other reefers have had by the time I get to set my tank up.

No need for triton for dummies. It's really not complicated. It's funny, I think one of tritons focus originally was to create a system for people who didn't understand chemistry, or new people into the hobby to take some of the thinking out of the equation. It's the people that like to tinker with chemistry that have the questions.

Sump size.. you can go bigger. Or potentially smaller. The system revolves around a filtration that can properly handle the bio load. If you have 2 fish a 5% fuge might be sufficient. In one of my tanks the fuge is half the size of the display. Point is to Make sure your system can handle the load. And also make sure the fuge/skimmer doesn't suck all of the nutrients out as well! I have both extremes. Huge bio load, and another I'm adding nitrate/phosphate daily to keep it measurable. Very important. If you opt for the "full method" with no water changes you could potentially add quite a bit of macro elements in with the core 7, so if your fuge is small or your system is immature opt for the "non method" core7, otherwise you may get some nuisance algae in the display.

With the triton water testing you can see the balance of the salt and add that specific component (sold by triton) or simply add some top off water from your own saltwater too. No issue as long as you are using a quality salt.

Deep sand bed in the display is fine. I wouldn't use synthetic sand, as anything leaching raising ph will also leach something you don't want too. Or contaminates.

No kalk. Use the core bottles (3a and 3b) are for alk. 2 for calcium. Pick up a good 4 head dosing pump and don't look back. Kalk is fine, ..works, always has, but it's not triton. 2 part now is more popular, not to take anything away from kalk. It's just a different approach.

You can keep anything with this method. Clams.. Nothing was reinvented here. Triton just gives to the tools to test and know what's in the water. Empowers you add trace elements, or leave it alone. Whatever you choose.

Triton suggests a mixture of macro. Personally I swear some algae put out toxins. Chateo is safe. Probably doesn't work as well as some others. I keep a variety.

Don't use marine pure. I'll save you the hassle and struggle for the first year. Some will argue but my testing doesn't lie. I have it in all 3 of my systems, still do. I made it through the leaching process, and wouldn't do it again. Had issues, and many (would have otherwise had been) unnecessary water changes. It leaches aluminum, which many corals won't like, especially in a small system like 40 gallons. Also lithium. Take my word for it.

Hope that helps

 

[action21]

If your alk went from 8 to 10 don't add more. Let it fall naturally until it's back to 8. It sounds like it will probably take a few days. Depending on your coral demand it sounds like you should start dosing a much lower amount. Try 5 ml a day (after it falls back down) and see what that gets you. You might end up testing 2x a day until you get it dialed in. Remember to test the same time each day too, as it can fluctuate.

As far as the triton testing, as soon as you feel the system is stable you can send in a sample.

Awaiting test results - had to lower daily dose to 3ml and all readings are stabile and Alk @8.1. I guess that is where I will stay at until I get my results back

 

[action21]

If your alk went from 8 to 10 don't add more. Let it fall naturally until it's back to 8. It sounds like it will probably take a few days. Depending on your coral demand it sounds like you should start dosing a much lower amount. Try 5 ml a day (after it falls back down) and see what that gets you. You might end up testing 2x a day until you get it dialed in. Remember to test the same time each day too, as it can fluctuate.

As far as the triton testing, as soon as you feel the system is stable you can send in a sample.

Had to lower to 3ML a day now everything is stable. Should note that refugium chloe (tumbling type) is still only about an 1/8th the size of the Trition 44 Sump area but growing 2x each week.

 

[Tim@Triton]

Awaiting test results - had to lower daily dose to 3ml and all readings are stabile and Alk @8.1. I guess that is where I will stay at until I get my results back

Don't wait for results for your daily base elements dose adjustment, they should be adjusted from your home Alk testing.

 

[Scott.h]

Awaiting test results - had to lower daily dose to 3ml and all readings are stabile and Alk @8.1. I guess that is where I will stay at until I get my results back

Triton won't read/test alk. If your system was 8.1 before triton, keep it at 8.1. I have one triton system that stays at 7.0. Every time I push the envelope with higher light or alk I know it. I can't get it higher then 7.4 or I burn tips/bleach. Par is really low for most sps standards also. (Like 150). It's not tritons fault. I just can't get the nutrients high/stable enough to support higher alk. So keep that in mind. 8.0 is a recommendation, not a requirement. More nutrients-more alk-more light- more growth.. if your system is properly saturated in nutrients higher alk won't work, the same as any other method.

 

[schaNYC]

Is a chaeto reactor discouraged for the Triton method or are people having success with the reactor vs loose chaeto in a sump?

 

[chris chung]

Hi Tim,

New account, but ive been reading up on the triton & I plan to use it. Now does this apply to a fowler tank. I plan to have mostly fish w/ softies. This is largely in part to fish selection.

 

[Tim@Triton]

Hi Tim,

New account, but ive been reading up on the triton & I plan to use it. Now does this apply to a fowler tank. I plan to have mostly fish w/ softies. This is largely in part to fish selection.

Hi Chris, Triton will not work in a fish only system, there needs to be a suitable amount of consumption of elements. Without consumption of elements there will be no doses.

Essentially, no corals no consumption.

 

[action21]

Don't wait for results for your daily base elements dose adjustment, they should be adjusted from your home Alk testing.

OK increased to 5ML dose for last 3 days ALK staying at 8.5.

 

[meinekebob]

i switched over to core 7 other methods about 3 weeks ago. still carbon dosing. algea in sump doing ok, but not growing much. i know regular core 7 has algea enhancers. i started with other methods figuring i'd switch after these bottles are out. is there anything i could dose to help the algea grow untill these bottles are done? nitrates and phosphates still a bit high. just dialing in the vinegar dose from switching from nopox.

 

[Scott.h]

i switched over to core 7 other methods about 3 weeks ago. still carbon dosing. algea in sump doing ok, but not growing much. i know regular core 7 has algea enhancers. i started with other methods figuring i'd switch after these bottles are out. is there anything i could dose to help the algea grow untill these bottles are done? nitrates and phosphates still a bit high. just dialing in the vinegar dose from switching from nopox.

What lighting are you using? A good amount on nitrate and phosphate, combined with good lighting should be all you need. You could always cocktail the full method and other method bottles together.

 

[meinekebob]

i have 2 screw in 40w led grow bulbs. Maybe time to upgrade?

 

[firefishalumacraft]

Setting up my system for Triton method. I got a new sump for a large fuge, moved my skimmer. Question, in the fuge area does anyone have LR rubble> how much if so and how large are the pieces? For a light for the fuge I'm looking at the Kessil H380 / Radion FW XR15 / or a cheap UFO 100w grow full spectrum LED. Im also shutting down my biopellet reactor.

question on dosing. Im going to be using my BRS Cal / Mag /DKh do I have to buy the Triton products for dosing?

 

[Tim@Triton]

Setting up my system for Triton method. I got a new sump for a large fuge, moved my skimmer. Question, in the fuge area does anyone have LR rubble> how much if so and how large are the pieces? For a light for the fuge I'm looking at the Kessil H380 / Radion FW XR15 / or a cheap UFO 100w grow full spectrum LED. Im also shutting down my biopellet reactor.

question on dosing. Im going to be using my BRS Cal / Mag /DKh do I have to buy the Triton products for dosing?

No live rock or sand in the sump.

If you are wanting to run the Triton Method then you will need the Triton Core7 solutions.

 

[firefishalumacraft]

why couldn't I substitute with the BRS C+, Alk, mag then the triton Core 7? What does the Core 7 have that the BRS doesn't? And I was still going to do 20% water changes till I'm out of the BRS additives.

 

[Brian W]

Quick Question.

When starting the Triton method in an already established aquarium do I dose the recommended starting dose for each bottle or just 1 bottle?

EX: my starting does is 15ml
Dose Bottle 1 - 15ml
Dose Bottle 2 - 15ml
Dose Bottle 3 - 15ml (3a & 3b combined)

or
Dose Bottle 1 - 15ml
Dose Bottle 2 - 15ml
Dose Bottle 3 - 30ml (3a & 3b combined)

Thanks

 

[Scott.h]

Quick Question.

When starting the Triton method in an already established aquarium do I dose the recommended starting dose for each bottle or just 1 bottle?

EX: my starting does is 15ml
Dose Bottle 1 - 15ml
Dose Bottle 2 - 15ml
Dose Bottle 3 - 15ml (3a & 3b combined)

or
Dose Bottle 1 - 15ml
Dose Bottle 2 - 15ml
Dose Bottle 3 - 30ml (3a & 3b combined)

Thanks

The second one. The same amount from all 4 bottles

 

[Brian W]

The second one. The same amount from all 4 bottles

thanks

 

[Jaculus]

I currently have a VERY heavily stocked 200 DD tank with a 125Gal Basement refugium. Obviously with having a large refugium and GFO, Carbon, Bio Pellets and LOTS of macro algae growth I have not had any large issues with NO4 or PO3. I am currently using the typical 2 Part BRS dosing with a DOS/DDR. That is working well and has for 4 or 5 years.

Now to the question though, I am considering the Triton method now and updating my Apex from the Classic Gold to the new controller and getting on board with all the new Apex Ca/Alk/MG tester coming. Thanks to a small group setting chat with Tom Dachille of Neptune at my local LFS last night (Ocean Rift Aquatics) I am now almost 100% on board with all of this.

Here is my question that I should have asked last night. Since my sump is a basement one and I have approx 25' of head pressure (currently running a Pan World 200PS) it is nearly impossible to get the desired 10x per hour flow through the sump/refugium and Display Tank. If I was to guess I am probably at 5 to 6 times. (My first purchase will be to get the FMK so I can get a better idea of the true flow.) My question is this, can I get away with 5 or 6X through the sump back up to the DT or can I simply setup a DC high volume pump to re-circulate water from the last chamber in the sump back to the first chamber to effectively get to 10X through the refugium even though I would still only be getting 5X back through the display tank?

 

[Jaculus]

I currently have a VERY heavily stocked 200 DD tank with a 125Gal Basement refugium. Obviously with having a large refugium and GFO, Carbon, Bio Pellets and LOTS of macro algae growth I have not had any large issues with NO4 or PO3. I am currently using the typical 2 Part BRS dosing with a DOS/DDR. That is working well and has for 4 or 5 years.

Now to the question though, I am considering the Triton method now and updating my Apex from the Classic Gold to the new controller and getting on board with all the new Apex Ca/Alk/MG tester coming. Thanks to a small group setting chat with Tom Dachille of Neptune at my local LFS last night (Ocean Rift Aquatics) I am now almost 100% on board with all of this.

Here is my question that I should have asked last night. Since my sump is a basement one and I have approx 25' of head pressure (currently running a Pan World 200PS) it is nearly impossible to get the desired 10x per hour flow through the sump/refugium and Display Tank. If I was to guess I am probably at 5 to 6 times. (My first purchase will be to get the FMK so I can get a better idea of the true flow.) My question is this, can I get away with 5 or 6X through the sump back up to the DT or can I simply setup a DC high volume pump to re-circulate water from the last chamber in the sump back to the first chamber to effectively get to 10X through the refugium even though I would still only be getting 5X back through the display tank?

I am going to post this as a separate thread in this section. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/i...addtl-pump-from-last-chamber-to-first.335679/