Guide to the Triton Method

Discussion in 'Triton Applied Reef Bioscience' started by Tim@Triton, Apr 5, 2017.

  1. rick_farr

    rick_farr Member

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    Ive been running Triton for almost two weeks and I’m struggling to get my dkh up from 5.4.
    I originally ran the Red Sea program and dosed KH daily - since starting Triton it has been falling.
    I started with the recommended 2ml/100 litres per day. I increased it by 2ml / day every 3 days, but it’s still very low.
    Do I continue to keep increasing the dose until it’s closer to 7?
    Advice would be appreciated.
    Rick

    System volume 202 litres
    Mixed reef
    Dosing core 7
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2017

  2. rickster

    rickster Member

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    Can anybody give me clue of how to correct this situation: 1st Triton test results in the LI section my results for Li were 1161 with a setpoint of 200,
    I have no clue how that would be or how to correct for it. All other results were ok with exception of a few known elements that I can correct for Calcium and Magnesium were slightly high?
    any ideas on how lithium would be so high of quantity in the tank?
    Thanks
     
  3. TbyZ

    TbyZ Well-Known Member

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    Didn't Randy already suggest that its probably your salt mix
     
  4. Tim@Triton

    Tim@Triton Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Platinum Sponsor

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    Please check the Help tab for guidance for the most common sources of contamination for each element.

    As previously mentioned in the US most Lithium is through contaminated salt mixes.
     
  5. bdejong1112o

    bdejong1112o Active Member Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    I have a question about this as my tank is fresh and new. I have my system designed around Triton full method. My question has always been when to start the Triton dosing. I know to wait until after the cycle completes but the big question is after cycle, with an inmature tank when should I start the dosing?

    Is it right away or only after adding coral or after adding first fish? I am very unclear as to when and now your response leads me to believe that even though my system is signed for Triton full I should use other methd chemicals until my tank is no longer considered inmature.

    Then the question is what quatifies mature from inmature?

    Remember, I am new to this style tank so be nice! My questions are from my lack of knowledge and wanting to understand how to do it right.

    Thanks
     
  6. Tim@Triton

    Tim@Triton Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Platinum Sponsor

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    You should not dose the solutions until you have a measured consumption of elements. By that I mean when you measure your Alkalinity you see it reduce from one day to the next. This will only happen with corals in the system, on some occasions Coraline algae may consume some but not a lot.... So we say add some hardy corals and measure your Alk daily, once it drops below 8 then start at the lowest dose, if it drops again then increase the dose, and visa versa.. until a stable dose is achieved.
     
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  7. bdejong1112o

    bdejong1112o Active Member Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    Tim

    Thank you for the reply. I am super excited to get my tank started and using Triton from day one. I know there are a few good documents that describe the method and I have watched a bunch of macna videos about Triton.

    Are or is there a how to start your new tank from day one with Triton document somewhere? I followed all the design guidelines and have the system conforming to the recommendations but I would love a step by step that starts from the addition of water through getting it stable with Triton. If it's as simple as following the simple steps in your previous post then let me know. That would be great!

    Thanks in advance for any and all help

    Brian
     
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  8. TbyZ

    TbyZ Well-Known Member

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    No regular water changes are a main feature of various methods of maintaining a reef aquarium, including Triton
    Some would argue that toxic disolved organics build up to a level that is detrimental to tank occupants, and, if this is true, they claim its because >>> water changes are the only method to reduce them <<< .

    I don't necessarily believe >toxic organics< remain toxic indefinately, or that they aren't removed by skimming, activated carbon, purigen, or detoxified by ozone, for example.

    I would be extremely interested in reading your opinion on this matter based on your experience?
     
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  9. rpeters

    rpeters Active Member

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    +1 I would be interested in this as well
     
  10. Tim@Triton

    Tim@Triton Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Platinum Sponsor

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    Starting a tank for Triton is similar to starting any system in that you should start with good materials with a lean towards natural sustainable sources. For example we recommend Natural Sea Water, and sustainably sourced Live Rock.

    In your mind you should always be thinking "What is this product putting in my tank?", this applies to everything from food, to salt, to bacteria, and anything else for that matter. We want as few contamination sources as possible.

    So you cycle your tank as you would with any method, once your system is measuring a nutrient load then you can add your algae. Once your parameters are suitable then you can add your first corals, and once those corals start consuming elements then you can start dosing to replace those elements. And thats pretty much it.
     
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  11. abecker

    abecker Active Member

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    Is there documentation on using the Triton “other methods”. Also, does the Triton method work well with animals like anemones or do they produce too much waste for no water changes?
     
  12. Tim@Triton

    Tim@Triton Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Platinum Sponsor

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    The method for using the Core7 Reef Supplements (Other Methods) is exactly the same as the Base Elements (Triton Method). But we are working on a guide exclusively for the Core7 Reef Supplements.

    Yes there is no trouble keep nems with Triton products.
     
  13. TbyZ

    TbyZ Well-Known Member

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    Yes. I agree. And Tim, what about possible contamination from toxins released by corals & possibly algae? Do you believe they linger, & possibly build up to problematic levels?
    If yes, how does the Triton method deal with this?
    I'd need to know this to be confident to start an aquarium using the Triton method & Triton products.
    Sincere question.
    A response would be most appreciated.

    Regards
    Steve
     
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  14. abecker

    abecker Active Member

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    Is there a recommendation for nutrient export? Currently I run carbon and an algae reactor.
     
  15. Tim@Triton

    Tim@Triton Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Platinum Sponsor

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    We use activated carbon to remove toxins and dissolved organics.
     
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  16. Tim@Triton

    Tim@Triton Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Platinum Sponsor

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    The choice is yours, that is the freedom of the product. Just make sure that you are using pure products.
     
  17. TbyZ

    TbyZ Well-Known Member

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    do you recommend any particular type ( not brand ) of activated carbon Tim ? Although brand would obviously come into it.

    Depending on the source material & activation process some are very effective & some are absolutely usless & should never be sold for marine aquarium purposes.
    For such an important issue this could mean the difference between make or break.

    regards
    steve.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2017
  18. Scott.h

    Scott.h Valuable Member Build Thread Contributor

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    @Tim@Triton

    Can you tell me the potency of the iron? My system has became depleated. "Dose" tab isn't suggesting that I add it, or how much to add to elevate it back up. I'm not sure why? Aside from adding 5 drops a day into 105 gallons of water I have don't know what amount it takes to raise it properly. Thanks
     
  19. Tim@Triton

    Tim@Triton Well-Known Member R2R Supporter Platinum Sponsor

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    Iron is one of those elements that is very dangerous if overdosed.

    Start by dosing 0.2ml per 100L and monitor for changes, if showing on ICP ten reduce/stop dosing.
     
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  20. Elizabeth Hood

    Elizabeth Hood New Member

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    I've been out of the hobby for almost 6 years and everything has changed. I have 2 40 g breeders that I'm going to be setting up as a mixed reef and sump (yay for the awesome Lowe's rack that perfectly fits 2 40g b above and below!) and stumbled upon the Triton method which seems perfect for me, but I have several questions I can't find answers to.

    1- Why 10%-20% fuge? Why not 10% +? What happens if more than 20% of your system is a fuge? A mandarin is on my must have list so I had already planned on at least 1/3rd of the sump being a fuge.
    2- What about replacing the salt lost to salt creep? If you aren't doing water changes, how do you ensure stable salinity?
    3- No kalk? Am I really reading that right? When I left the hobby, ATOs were only a DIY option and now it seems everyone adds kalk to their ATOs. With Triton, ATOs are RO/DI only?
    4- Marinepure in the sump is ok with Triton, right? Which chamber would be best to put that in (probably going to use the balls not the block)?
    5- In theory, one could get by with a generous fuge, work horse of a skimmer, high turnover return pump, dosing according to what Triton's tests tell you, and no other equipment/supplements (carbon/gfo/kalk reactor/etc. Other than lights/powerheads/dosing pumps, obviously), right?
    6- Is a deep sand bed in the DT ok? A yellow-headed pearly jawfish is another of my must haves and he needs a DSB. It's just in the fuge where sand is a waste/problem? I'll be using black sand (1/3rd CaribSea Black Tahitian Moon 2/3rds National Geographic black sand. The NG says it raises the pH... Hopefully that's a good thing in this case?).
    7- Is this method ok with clams and scallops? I prefer to use as many different types of biological vs mechanical filtration as possible, but I don't want them to starve or tank. Is adding phytoplankton periodically a no-no or a yes-yes with Triton?
    8- I see chaeto being touted as THE algae to use with Triton, but what about other algae or mangroves? I would assume mangroves would help pull out some things the chaeto can't?

    Sorry if my post is rather potato. Getting back into the hobby is like re-learning a language you haven't spoken in 6 years. We don't PCS for another 6-9 months so I'm taking my time researching and hoping someone will create a Triton For Dummies tutorial and be able to see more results other reefers have had by the time I get to set my tank up.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2017
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