HELP DIY Stand Issues Fit & Finish

I’m Batman

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Super pumped about this build, I followed @RocketEngineer plans for this however looking back there’s a few different designs.

The not so pumpedness now coming from a dry fit.

Issue #1) There’s 2 cad designs for this very basic stand. The one I followed actually has the corners NOT overlapping the sides like this...
4E04CFD8-E26E-4763-B61B-26D84A2393FB.jpeg


Would it be more structurally sound to have the over lap like this? (The image is right side up but uploads upside down.

68E80833-B81F-4383-AB56-04FDA735C116.jpeg


Issue #2) When I placed the 3/4 plywood on top of the stand, it’s not totally square. I just learned about planing the wood today... whoops on my part, however with the top on, the side boards slide right out. Also there’s space in between each b and the plywood.

A143E384-B39E-40BB-A52D-467E7832AC24.jpeg



BEE0D20E-B89E-4A83-B3DC-3D870796A67F.jpeg


Issue #3) the top support across the front of the frame has a bow in it and so does the plywood, causing the tank to have space in between the bottom of the tank and the plywood, making it rock from corner to corner.

F59A359C-3FD0-41F8-A451-E910BA875688.jpeg


Issue #4) I added 2 inches to the plywood in length and width to account for the frame being wider than an actual 48”x24” - I didn’t take into consideration how close the drain and return holes were to the corner and the stand verticals are in the way and now I’ll have to push the tank to the right those 2 inches to have clearance for the bulkhead.

7C0F8B08-FFD7-4C3F-9FFA-0406FE3865AF.jpeg


Overall I was very happy with the way this was turning out and now I just don’t know if this is going to work.

I really don’t want to have to rebuild the stand but mostly just wanting to get feedback from the community if these gaps in between the wood is ok, the tank rocking back and fourth and then the tank overhang on the front left corner.
 

Saltyreef

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Looks good. Overlapping the wood is how i did mine.

The other issues youre having, did you screw the top down to the frame?

And for under the tank just use a 1/4" neoprene foam leveling mat
 
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Also on this being a rimmed tank, I’m reading conflicting info. Most says not to use a mat for a timed tank. Any thoughts?
 
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I after a more thorough inspection I noticed the plywood wood is actually warped to one end. Being that I’ll the top board to be bigger than the 48”x24” stand, does anyone have suggestion on a 4’x8’ material that can be cut down to the 50” x 26” dimension. Is there a material that is more plumb than the 3/4” plywood?

I even chose plywood that was more expensive than standard OSB, but I still need up with a warped piece.
 
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Also does anyone see a problem with the way the tank is oriented off center and overhanging on the right front corner?
 

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I after a more thorough inspection I noticed the plywood wood is actually warped to one end. Being that I’ll the top board to be bigger than the 48”x24” stand, does anyone have suggestion on a 4’x8’ material that can be cut down to the 50” x 26” dimension. Is there a material that is more plumb than the 3/4” plywood?

I even chose plywood that was more expensive than standard OSB, but I still need up with a warped piece.
I wouldn’t use plywood under the tank. Unfinished plywood like you have won’t stand up to spills VWR well. I used dimensional lumber for my mixing station stand and utility rack. It’s much stronger and more durable than plywood.
 

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Vested

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How many gallons is the tank? From the pictures doesn't look large enough that I would really worry about any of these small "issues". Especially because your tank has rims the glass is much more secure, I really only use mats for rimless aquariums because if there is some kind of warp in the wood its putting pressure directly on the bottom of the aquarium. This isn't an issue usually with tanks that have a rim like yours. The only thing you need to worry about in my opinion is making sure the tank/stand is level. The overhang is annoying I'm sure but again I dont see it causing any issues with the size tank your using.
 
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wouldn’t use plywood under the tank. Unfinished plywood like you have won’t stand up to spills VWR well. I used dimensional lumber
I polyurethaned both sides of the plywood with no ventilation in the garage. Still feeling the effects...
 
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How many gallons is the tank? From the pictures doesn't look large enough that I would really worry about any of these small "issues".
It’s 60 gallons. I guess my main issue is that the tank rocks from corner to corner diagonally from the twist in the 3/4” plywood wood topper.

Thanks for the rest of your comments too, I can deal with the overhang, no biggie, I’m not painting this stand so aesthetics have no priority here. Stand is level no issue there.

I wasn’t going to put a topper on but the 2x4’s aren’t exactly straight. I went through probably 30 at the home improvement store and of course the ones I got that I thought were straight aren’t. The horizontal long 2x4 in the back has a mean twist in it now that I swear wasn’t there when I first cut everything 2 months ago (time waiting on the tank to arrive from the vendor). Humidity is only 30% in the room it’s set up in so I’m not sure why it twisted but I paid $7 for each 2x4 and they’re up over $9 today. I built a false wall in an upstairs room last February and they were only $3...

Is there a straighter wood? I’m thinking of going 2”X6” boards for the top frame hoping that will be more plumb...
 

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Not sure how far along you are with all the stand construction. But you can use construction adhesive like this...
1614571786260.png


... to fill gaps between the upper frame and top plywood. Remove and reset the top plywood with a good double stripe of the adhesive. Then secure the plywood until it measures nice and level, nice and flat. Let the adhesive cure for 24-48 hours and you have a perfectly flat top surface.
 

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It’s 60 gallons. I guess my main issue is that the tank rocks from corner to corner diagonally from the twist in the 3/4” plywood wood topper.

Thanks for the rest of your comments too, I can deal with the overhang, no biggie, I’m not painting this stand so aesthetics have no priority here. Stand is level no issue there.

I wasn’t going to put a topper on but the 2x4’s aren’t exactly straight. I went through probably 30 at the home improvement store and of course the ones I got that I thought were straight aren’t. The horizontal long 2x4 in the back has a mean twist in it now that I swear wasn’t there when I first cut everything 2 months ago (time waiting on the tank to arrive from the vendor). Humidity is only 30% in the room it’s set up in so I’m not sure why it twisted but I paid $7 for each 2x4 and they’re up over $9 today. I built a false wall in an upstairs room last February and they were only $3...

Is there a straighter wood? I’m thinking of going 2”X6” boards for the top frame hoping that will be more plumb...
I recently built a stand/cabinet for a 6' tank and had to buy 14' 2x to get 6' pieces without knots and defects. Even after all that, I still had to dress all the edges on my tablesaw. I feel your pain with today's lumber, it sucks!

My advice is posted above, use construction adhesive (plus shims if needed) to true the plywood top.
 
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My advice is posted above, use construction adhesive (plus shims if needed) to true the plywood top.
It’s been winter and rainy here so instead of a wood shop and paying somewhere to dress the edges I may just have to break out the table saw when it’s a dry day (I only use my table saw in the open driveway).

The topper is not secured and like stated above it’s a dry build to factor in any extra steps.

With the construction adhesive, being there’s a warp and bow in the plywood topper, I can see this would settle the edges but I’m not sure that will solve the imperfection in the plywood in general, thinking the warp is causing the tank to have the wobble.
 

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If you can find 3/4" maple plywood, that's made for cabinet construction and should be perfectly flat.
Your tank is 48x24 framed glass. That stand doesn't require a plywood topper if you invest the time to plane and true the top frame.

Another option would be to use 1/4" blondewood plywood with construction adhesive between it and the upper frame to fill any gaps. Set the tank on top and allow it to forcibly spread the adhesive. Wipe away excess adhesive that squeezes out and let it cure before removing the tank. Then coat/waterproof the plywood and frame.
 
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If you can find 3/4" maple plywood, that's made for cabinet construction and should be perfectly flat.
Your tank is 48x24 framed glass. That stand doesn't require a plywood topper if you invest the time to plane and true the top frame.
Will look for maple plywood. I was thinking a topper would be best if there’s imperfections in the stand.

I’ve read and watched hours of stand builds and from what I’ve seen, I’m just wondering how the heck people go their stands plumb and straight.

Seems like folks are screwing generic improvement store 2x4’s together like making a peanut butter sandwich and somehow they’re perfectly good to go....

Sounds l need to look at the 2x6 solution and dress on the table saw if I can’t find maple.
 
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Looks like my only options for 2”X6” dimensional lumber is spruce pine fir. They do have the maple 3/4” plywood in stock too... I’ll be picking up both and providing an update for the 2021 48”x24” DIY builds...
 

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