Help Me Identify (this is in my QT)

Dyln

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Hi All - I set up my QT with 100% fresh saltwater on the 18th and I added a pair of clownfish. I did a 35% water change on the 20th. I have been dosing Seachem prime, stability, and stressguard. A small patch of this appeared on one of the PVC fittings and it is growing. Could you please help me identify this? Any advice would be much appreciated.
Salinity - 1.025
pH - 8
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - reading close to 0

IMG_6429.jpg
 

Saltyreef

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Hi All - I set up my QT with 100% fresh saltwater on the 18th and I added a pair of clownfish. I did a 35% water change on the 20th. I have been dosing Seachem prime, stability, and stressguard. A small patch of this appeared on one of the PVC fittings and it is growing. Could you please help me identify this? Any advice would be much appreciated.
Salinity - 1.025
pH - 8
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - reading close to 0

IMG_6429.jpg
Hi there. Looks like cyano.

For a simple sterile observation quarantine tank, ive been successful with just 50% water changes every other day depending on bioload. A seachem ammonia badge hanging on the inside will help keep you out of the danger zone.

Dosing lots of different things can lead to problems. Especially in a tank with no biofilter or surface area for the bacteria to colonize.
 
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Dyln

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Hi there. Looks like cyano.

For a simple sterile observation quarantine tank, ive been successful with just 50% water changes every other day depending on bioload. A seachem ammonia badge hanging on the inside will help keep you out of the danger zone.

Dosing lots of different things can lead to problems. Especially in a tank with no biofilter or surface area for the bacteria to colonize.
Thank you for the quick response. My plan is to do a 50% water change every other day. However, when I did the last water change, the pair appeared to be stressed. Because of that, I stopped at 35%. I have a Seachem ammonia alert in the tank :)

What do you suggest to get rid of cyano? Should I wrap the QT with a black sticker?
 

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Thank you for the quick response. My plan is to do a 50% water change every other day. However, when I did the last water change, the pair appeared to be stressed. Because of that, I stopped at 35%. I have a Seachem ammonia alert in the tank :)

What do you suggest to get rid of cyano? Should I wrap the QT with a black sticker?
Whats your ultimate goal? Are you just observing before putting in your display?

I would cease dosing anything to the tank if you are using atleast RO water for your salt mix and watching the alert badge daily while doing 50% water changes every other day. Remove the pvc, clean it of the cyano and replace into the tank. You can also remove the fish into a bucket so you can clean the QT. After a week or two its good to clean the biofilm from all surfaces and start fresh if your tank is going to remain sterile. With only PVC.

Are you running an airstone, pump or HOB filter?
 
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Dyln

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Whats your ultimate goal? Are you just observing before putting in your display?

I would cease dosing anything to the tank if you are using atleast RO water for your salt mix and watching the alert badge daily while doing 50% water changes every other day. Remove the pvc, clean it of the cyano and replace into the tank. You can also remove the fish into a bucket so you can clean the QT. After a week or two its good to clean the biofilm from all surfaces and start fresh if your tank is going to remain sterile. With only PVC.

Are you running an airstone, pump or HOB filter?

I am only observing them (for 30 days if no issues) before I put them in the DT. I am using RODI water and I am watching the ammonia alert a few times a day.

I have an airstone and a HOB without anything in it (just for surface agitation). What can I use to clean the PVC fitting to completely get rid of cyno?
 

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I am only observing them (for 30 days if no issues) before I put them in the DT. I am using RODI water and I am watching the ammonia alert a few times a day.

I have an airstone and a HOB without anything in it (just for surface agitation). What can I use to clean the PVC fitting to completely get rid of cyno?
Just remove it from the tank and scrub it off with a wet paper towel. You can use a little peroxide too just rinse the fitting off in water before placing back in the tank.
 

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I am only observing them (for 30 days if no issues) before I put them in the DT. I am using RODI water and I am watching the ammonia alert a few times a day.

I have an airstone and a HOB without anything in it (just for surface agitation). What can I use to clean the PVC fitting to completely get rid of cyno?
Also, there may not be enough flow inside the tank for proper gas exchange if only using a small HOB.

In a sterile 10g quarantine my basic equipment is an airstone, an aquaclear 20 hob with a seeded sponge from DT and a small mj400 pump stuck to the side glass providing a small current inside the tank.

Do you have anything from your DT like a small sponge or some extra media like bits of liverock you can throw in the back of the HOB?
 
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Dyln

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Also, there may not be enough flow inside the tank for proper gas exchange if only using a small HOB.

In a sterile 10g quarantine my basic equipment is an airstone, an aquaclear 20 hob with a seeded sponge from DT and a small mj400 pump stuck to the side glass providing a small current inside the tank.

Do you have anything from your DT like a small sponge or some extra media like bits of liverock you can throw in the back of the HOB?
HOB is rated for twice the size of the current water volume. Plus pH seems to be steady suggesting no change in CO2. I have a spare wavemaker and a pump but I heard the clowns don't prefer strong current. I have seeded media but I didn't want to add them in case I need to medicate. I am following a version of the BRS uncycled method to quarantine the clowns.
 

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By the way can cyno hurt fish or humans?
This is a great opportunity for you to do some research :)

Here's a great place to start:
 

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HOB is rated for twice the size of the current water volume. Plus pH seems to be steady suggesting no change in CO2. I have a spare wavemaker and a pump but I heard the clowns don't prefer strong current. I have seeded media but I didn't want to add them in case I need to medicate. I am following a version of the BRS uncycled method to quarantine the clowns.
Seeded media is almost always a must with sterile QT. I keep sponges floating in my sump just for this purpose. Meds arent an issue if you are using a pourous sponge or a very small HOB sized piece of livrock. Just be sure to account for the minimal amount of copper absorbtion if using liverock or a porous media like a biobrick.

You have no bio filter established in the tank and thats why you are growing cyano.

I wasnt suggesting strong flow just a bit more flow in general as your prime likes to reduce the available oxygen in the water.

Its always good to have a powerhead pointing up at the surface.

The issue of low oxygen isnt measured by PH. It can be in indicator though.
Low dissolved oxygen in the water is mainly caused by poor agitation and an abundance of organic materials. (Fish poop, dosing liquids with bacteria)
 
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Dyln

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This is a great opportunity for you to do some research :)

Here's a great place to start:
Thank you. I read that article a long time ago. Didn't hurt to refresh my memory. I asked the question because there are warning signs about cyano around water-bodies.
 

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Thank you. I read that article a long time ago. Didn't hurt to refresh my memory. I asked the question because there are warning signs about cyano around water-bodies.
Cyanobacteria produces cyanotoxin but only usually becomes a health hazard problem when it reproduces rapidly in larger bodies of water causing a cyano bloom.

Its borderline harmless in the reef tank.
 
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Dyln

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Seeded media is almost always a must with sterile QT. I keep sponges floating in my sump just for this purpose. Meds arent an issue if you are using a pourous sponge or a very small HOB sized piece of livrock. Just be sure to account for the minimal amount of copper absorbtion if using liverock or a porous media like a biobrick.

You have no bio filter established in the tank and thats why you are growing cyano.

I wasnt suggesting strong flow just a bit more flow in general as your prime likes to reduce the available oxygen in the water.

Its always good to have a powerhead pointing up at the surface.

The issue of low oxygen isnt measured by PH. It can be in indicator though.
Low dissolved oxygen in the water is mainly caused by poor agitation and an abundance of organic materials. (Fish poop, dosing liquids with bacteria)
Agree with the lower oxygen levels because of prime, stressguard and stability. Because of this, I dose the them at different times.
 
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Dyln

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Cyanobacteria produces cyanotoxin but only usually becomes a health hazard problem when it reproduces rapidly in larger bodies of water causing a cyano bloom.

Its borderline harmless in the reef tank.
Aha that makes sense.
 

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Agree with the lower oxygen levels because of prime, stressguard and stability. Because of this, I dose the them at different times.
I dont think you should be dosing them at all. Theres not really any benefit in a sterile QT besides the ammonia reduction which you are already doing with water changes.
 
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Dyln

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I dont think you should be dosing them at all. Theres not really any benefit in a sterile QT besides the ammonia reduction which you are already doing with water changes.

Do you think the water change alone is enough given I have no biofilter?
 

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