hi , can anyone advise me on cycling as this is my first tank,125litres, 15 days in with live rock , testing jbl ; ammonia 0,6 , nitrate 10, nitrite 0,6 ,it says on the jbl test chart that my ammonia and nitrite are not good, not sure if the algae should be there, i would appreciate any imput.
HELP NEEDED ! has my tank cycled?
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Ammonia and nitrites should reach zero when cycle completes. What did your ammonia get to? The highest? Also how long has the tank been set up and what did you use to get the ammonia up on initial cycle?
Phycodurus
Well-Known Member
guys, IIRC don’t new tanks still in cycle benefit greatly from no lights until the ammonia/nitrites finally come down to 0 ppm??
Yes it is cycled.
The reason why: the growths on the top rock take longer to adhere than full complement filtration bacteria. I'm 100% sure that rock has been underwater longer than 30 days (second proof of cycle regardless of kits)
the reason kits don't help is they may or may not test right, we can see from searches. The top two methods are unfailing, however. cycle=done. your thread is now added to page one of the microbiology of cycling thread /umpire section ha fun.
B
additionals, all taken from pics:
if the bottom rocks aren't the same lot, even if they're dry, the top portion is cycled and can run a full tank's bioload, the middle rocks if dry do not matter overall. They may be live anyway, just not under such light to cause the identifying growths.
if any wet pack sand was used, that too brought in additional bacteria aiding the cycle. if the sand was dry, no matter it too will be cycled after just a few days of being associated underwater with the known portions of the tank that are cycled. My guess going off pics is that's all live rock from a live rock bin at the pet store, and wet pack sand from caribsea.
Live rock never ever loses bacteria when you transfer it tank to tank, that's the main reason you are cycled. There is a way to get any ammonia test kit to work, used differently than the instructions, we do it on the last couple pages here.
www.reef2reef.com
The reason why: the growths on the top rock take longer to adhere than full complement filtration bacteria. I'm 100% sure that rock has been underwater longer than 30 days (second proof of cycle regardless of kits)
the reason kits don't help is they may or may not test right, we can see from searches. The top two methods are unfailing, however. cycle=done. your thread is now added to page one of the microbiology of cycling thread /umpire section ha fun.
B
additionals, all taken from pics:
if the bottom rocks aren't the same lot, even if they're dry, the top portion is cycled and can run a full tank's bioload, the middle rocks if dry do not matter overall. They may be live anyway, just not under such light to cause the identifying growths.
if any wet pack sand was used, that too brought in additional bacteria aiding the cycle. if the sand was dry, no matter it too will be cycled after just a few days of being associated underwater with the known portions of the tank that are cycled. My guess going off pics is that's all live rock from a live rock bin at the pet store, and wet pack sand from caribsea.
Live rock never ever loses bacteria when you transfer it tank to tank, that's the main reason you are cycled. There is a way to get any ammonia test kit to work, used differently than the instructions, we do it on the last couple pages here.
The microbiology of reef tank cycling.
You can skip your cycle. Ive been reefing online for twenty years and have never waited one second for a tank to cycle, because I buy rocks that are already cycled and move them home. Here's two: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/octo-high-end-sps-skip-cycle-build.713256/...
www.reef2reef.com
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here is application of the method
www.reef2reef.com
if you want to prove your cycle is done, you have to test differently than what's being tested. Only ammonia matters, not the other two.
To get any ammonia tester to work correctly: change out 100% of your water for new reef water. take an ammonia measure after its fully changed out, that color whatever slight reading it may give, is calibrated zero.
next, you dose liquid ammonium chloride into the tank in tiny increments and take ammonia measures until you can detect a slight color change relative to your dosing, stop. do not proceed to 2 ppm.
all you do now is retest the ammonia in 24 hours, it will be back to the calibrated zero. That's the only way you are going to get an ammonia test kit to work correctly and it does reliably indicated the presence of nitrifiers~ if you want to run the method, take all pics and we'll log it in with the others. if you don't want to do all that, consider the logged examples already. your cycle is done
the problem with todays titration ammonia testers is discerning true zero without being impacted by dosers like Prime and other additives that skew readings, so we did that above.
Adding crabs and corals before cycle is done
Hey guys, i was wondering if adding a handful of crabs and some corals would help keep the tank healthy and ballanced before my cycle is complete. Cant seem to find a disscussion on this yet. So what are your thoughts? Earliest i can add it in would be about the end of the 2nd week into my...
www.reef2reef.com
if you want to prove your cycle is done, you have to test differently than what's being tested. Only ammonia matters, not the other two.
To get any ammonia tester to work correctly: change out 100% of your water for new reef water. take an ammonia measure after its fully changed out, that color whatever slight reading it may give, is calibrated zero.
next, you dose liquid ammonium chloride into the tank in tiny increments and take ammonia measures until you can detect a slight color change relative to your dosing, stop. do not proceed to 2 ppm.
all you do now is retest the ammonia in 24 hours, it will be back to the calibrated zero. That's the only way you are going to get an ammonia test kit to work correctly and it does reliably indicated the presence of nitrifiers~ if you want to run the method, take all pics and we'll log it in with the others. if you don't want to do all that, consider the logged examples already. your cycle is done
the problem with todays titration ammonia testers is discerning true zero without being impacted by dosers like Prime and other additives that skew readings, so we did that above.
Last edited:
thank you for all your help , all my rock is secondhand and came wet out a tank at the fish shop, i have noticed plenty of scuds in the rock,
my tests have been the same for a week , after reading on here i m not confident with the test kits ,
i am using natural sea water and cockle shells as a filter in my sump no protein skimmer, (an experiment my fish shop has been doing in there tanks for a year which seems to be working well, )
i am lucky i have a seal rescue centre 200 yards from my house that has a pipe half a mile out to sea for there water and they sell it it for £2.50 for 25litres,
can you tell me if i can add copeaods to my cheato now and what would be the best clean up crew to add ?
thank you again for all your advice !
my tests have been the same for a week , after reading on here i m not confident with the test kits ,
i am using natural sea water and cockle shells as a filter in my sump no protein skimmer, (an experiment my fish shop has been doing in there tanks for a year which seems to be working well, )
i am lucky i have a seal rescue centre 200 yards from my house that has a pipe half a mile out to sea for there water and they sell it it for £2.50 for 25litres,
can you tell me if i can add copeaods to my cheato now and what would be the best clean up crew to add ?
thank you again for all your advice !
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