How important is UV?

[VTek]

Hey guys, Vince here again looking for some knowledge.

I have 2 Radion XR 15w Pro's over my 90g. Currently running the pre-loaded 'deep reef' template at 60% but looking to make a custom schedule through EcoSmart Live. For those that are familiar with this, how important is the UV spectrum? I know how important the blue's are, but how much UV would you recommend when creating a custom schedule? Any advice is welcome. You can go into detail on your experiences or schedules or leave it brief for any insight!

Thanks in advance fellow reefers!

 

[gus6464]

The diodes on LED fixtures are not UV. They are violet spectrum between 405-420nm depending on the fixture. Real UV is <390nm and is quite dangerous. A metal halide bulb emits true ultra violet light which is why it requires one use the protective glass splash shield.

Now as far as what violet does for corals one of the main things it provides is chlorophyll A. Chlorophyll A is between 405-425nm. Royal Blue provides chlorophyll B which is 450-460nm. Violet light helps bring out the fluorescence. I prefer to run more violet than red to fulfill chlorophyll A as it appears quite dim to the human eye so it does not mess with visible color much. It also has the advantage that it penetrates deeper than red and provides good PUR/PAR.

 

[NanaReefer]

Wow an explanation I can understand. Thanks for that! [emoji2]

 

[happyhourhero]

My led has 395 UV

 

[VTek]

So, essentially, UV 100% recommended

 

[toaster77]

yes, you don't want any shorter wavelength UV light <350 nm, for it might cause damage to fish and corals and even cell death. think: UV sterilizer - they generate very short wavelength (<280 nm) light for killing off microbes.

 

[dacianb]

Most violet leds (390-430 nm) are Photobiological safety class 3 - may cause permanent damage to human eye even at short term exposures.
Deep blue and cold whites are class 2 - need a slightly longer exposure period to damage the eye, but still.... One single white LED at 2 meters cause temporary blind spots after an exposure of >0.3 seconds. Dont look into those LEDs.
This is the reason I placed the lights at 1" above water level, so my kids which are looking at the tank from their level to not be able to see the bare leds in any circumstance.

But yes, they are important there and everything looks so cool with them.

 

[ReefLEDLights]

Back in the Day MH SE Bulbs blocked the <400nn

420nm VHO Actinic was very popular.

If found that the Cree XT-E Royal Blue binned at 450nm gives a similar actinic pop while being a very efficient a powerful LED.

The Semi 410-420nm LED is not nearly as powerful and for a standard fixture you would need 6 to make a difference. Fixtures offering less only do so for marketing as this is a desirable spectrum.

Bill

 

[gus6464]

Back in the Day MH SE Bulbs blocked the <400nn

420nm VHO Actinic was very popular.

If found that the Cree XT-E Royal Blue binned at 450nm gives a similar actinic pop while being a very efficient a powerful LED.

The Semi 410-420nm LED is not nearly as powerful and for a standard fixture you would need 6 to make a difference. Fixtures offering less only do so for marketing as this is a desirable spectrum.

Bill

That is false. A semiled C35 U60 and U70 NF5 bin puts out 1050mW @ 700ma. A Luxeon T royal blue puts out the same amount @ 700ma. A Cree XT-E royal blue actually puts out less mW @700ma.

And the end of the day though they are LEDs used for completely different purposes. Royal Blue 450-460nm is chlorophyll B and 410-420 violet is chlorophyll A.

As for measuring PAR correctly on a violet 420nm LED you need a Li-Cor meter. Apogee measurements are off by a very large margin. That is why people think true actinic bulbs or violet LEDs are not powerful.

http://www.semileds.com/system/files/C3535U-UNL1.pdf
http://www.lumileds.com/uploads/382/DS106-pdf
http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...d-Modules/XLamp/Data-and-Binning/XLampXTE.pdf

 

[ReefLEDLights]

Depending on the bin the Cree XTE puts out 500-600mW @350mA and has a max drive current of 1500mA. Driven at a standard 1000mA it offers more.

Chlorophyll A uses 445-450nm Royal Blue but after 460nm its moot. This is why Binning is important in LED Selection. We do not accept Royal Blue Bins >455nm.

Heat is also an issue the harder you drive an LED the more heat...Excess Heat will cause a LED to produce less light.

The C35 max effective current is about 700mA were the XTE Royal Blue is very confortable at 1000mA given both are provided proper thermal management.

My preference is a 2:1 ratio of Cree and Semi to cover the 400-460nm spectrum as it offers the best compromise of efficiency and performance. Not to mention with the right mix of other LEDs looks are awesome.

Bill

 

[gus6464]

Once again royal blue and violet fulfill different chlorophyll requirements. 450nm is chlorophyll B and 420nm is chlorophyll a. Don't know why you insist in comparing them.

 

[ReefLEDLights]

They are close...

The Cree XT-E is without a doubt a more powerful LED. The D36/37 Bins offer a bit into the useful light region used by chlorophyll A

Yes without a doubt after 450nm the usefulness of this spectrum for chlorophyll A drops quicker than Bill Clinton's pants in a sorority house.

This is why I only use the D36/37 Bin as its spectrum dominant in the 450 also includes a lot of 440nm.

440nm is useful for A and an average sweet spot for marine photosynthesis based on most research appreciates 450nm...

I've grown frags using only XR-E Royal Blue Binned D36...

The Question is what is best, then the next question is whats most efficient....

Bill

 

[jetmaker]

They are close...

The Cree XT-E is without a doubt a more powerful LED. The D36/37 Bins offer a bit into the useful light region used by chlorophyll A

Yes without a doubt after 450nm the usefulness of this spectrum for chlorophyll A drops quicker than Bill Clinton's pants in a sorority house.

This is why I only use the D36/37 Bin as its spectrum dominant in the 450 also includes a lot of 440nm.

440nm is useful for A and an average sweet spot for marine photosynthesis based on most research appreciates 450nm...

I've grown frags using only XR-E Royal Blue Binned D36...

The Question is what is best, then the next question is whats most efficient....

Bill

Led does not put out uv

 

[jetmaker]

It puts out kelv but that's much less than uv

 

[dacianb]

I am using Osram Square Deep blue LEDs with typical 450 nm emission and max current of 2A, but keep them at 1A. For violet side I am using Luxeon UVs at various wavelengths - 400-430 nm.
More expensive solution than typical Cree/Semiled choice, but worth it.

 

[toaster77]

Do you care about growth or looks? Keep in mind the deep blue/ultra violet wavelengths are also used to excite proteins and small molecules in the corals that fluoresce, especially to "pop" greens. In fluorescence microscopy, 390 nm light is used for excitation of blue and green fluorescent proteins, which emit at ~445 (blue) or ~510 nm (green)

 

[VTek]

so you're saying i need just all red, correct???




Just kidding guys. Thanks for all the input!

 

[nano reef]

I realize this is avery old post but I am having a huge problem picking out a led for my needs. I have a IM nuvo 20 sitting under cabinents in kitchen. I only have 4 1/2 inches of clearance for lights. I was looking at current orbits and fluval sea marine and also fluval nano and was planning on using 2 of them for xtra par. The reason I am looking at these lights is they are the type that have the metal extenders and sit on top of tank. I think they are 3 watt leds. The problem is they dont have uv or even violet and start with 445 nm blue and 460. I can recall what fluval has but thats what current has plus red and green white. I was thinking 2 would give enough par but being it missing the uv and violet does that mean no clorophyll a?

Florence and growth are both very important and dont hear many reviews mention great color pop or growth. I have seen pics with all blues on and good pop and some with some white to. I used a current for a while and seem to recall I did get great color.

Does anyone know of a good light that can sit 4 1/2 inches above tank? I though about ai prime which is bendable and 12 inch which may work if I can find my measuring tape...lol but then I worry about hot spots. I recall BRS saying that hydras needed to be mounted 13 inches above tank. I also thought about reefbreeders photon or zet light and could saw down the legs but then there is the hot spot problem because I think the legs are 8 inches high. I really like the look of the currents with the mount they have and they are running a bundle special so If the violet and blue isnt that important than would buy those. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Been trying to figure this out for days!

 

[FriedReef TV]

I realize this is avery old post but I am having a huge problem picking out a led for my needs. I have a IM nuvo 20 sitting under cabinents in kitchen. I only have 4 1/2 inches of clearance for lights. I was looking at current orbits and fluval sea marine and also fluval nano and was planning on using 2 of them for xtra par. The reason I am looking at these lights is they are the type that have the metal extenders and sit on top of tank. I think they are 3 watt leds. The problem is they dont have uv or even violet and start with 445 nm blue and 460. I can recall what fluval has but thats what current has plus red and green white. I was thinking 2 would give enough par but being it missing the uv and violet does that mean no clorophyll a?

Florence and growth are both very important and dont hear many reviews mention great color pop or growth. I have seen pics with all blues on and good pop and some with some white to. I used a current for a while and seem to recall I did get great color.

Does anyone know of a good light that can sit 4 1/2 inches above tank? I though about ai prime which is bendable and 12 inch which may work if I can find my measuring tape...lol but then I worry about hot spots. I recall BRS saying that hydras needed to be mounted 13 inches above tank. I also thought about reefbreeders photon or zet light and could saw down the legs but then there is the hot spot problem because I think the legs are 8 inches high. I really like the look of the currents with the mount they have and they are running a bundle special so If the violet and blue isnt that important than would buy those. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Been trying to figure this out for days!

Viparspectra 165w on amazon.com remove the lenses that come attached to the led panel and watch your coral explode