How to Quarantine

[Big G]

Thank you....I have been reading but haven't made it through the entire thread yet :)

Here's the link to the previous thread on API General Cure: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/api-general-cure.195229/#post-2236352

 

[VJV]

Happy New Year everyone!

@Humblefish, @melypr1985 @4FordFamily , just brought home a Wonderfull McCosker's Flasher Wrasse and is in QT right now. Are they particularly sensitive to PraziPro or Copper (Cupramine)? Also, should I have a bowl of sand for him or do Flashers not burry in the sand?

Thanks!

 

[4FordFamily]

Happy New Year everyone!

@Humblefish, @melypr1985 @4FordFamily , just brought home a Wonderfull McCosker's Flasher Wrasse and is in QT right now. Are they particularly sensitive to PraziPro or Copper (Cupramine)? Also, should I have a bowl of sand for him or do Flashers not burry in the sand?

Thanks!

They’re not particularly fragile in copper but do better in chelated copper such as copper power or coppersafe. Increase copper slowly. Skip the sand that don’t need it.

They generally do alright with prazi as well but I’d avoid treating with both at the same time if possible, although it can be done it’s a higher risk.

Get it eating before you dose any mess.

Congrats, let’s see some pics! :)

 

[VJV]

They’re not particularly fragile in copper but do better in chelated copper such as copper power or coppersafe. Increase copper slowly. Skip the sand that don’t need it.

They generally do alright with prazi as well but I’d avoid treating with both at the same time if possible, although it can be done it’s a higher risk.

Get it eating before you dose any mess.

Congrats, let’s see some pics! :)

Thanks!

 

[VJV]

He is not looking to active. The tank already had a sleeper goby in that was going through Prazi although It has been 5 days since I dosed. Should I run some carbon and do a water change?

Here are his 5 new companions in QT[emoji4]

Tank is a IM Nuvo 24, 36inch long.

 

[VJV]

McCosker Wrasse still hiding and not coming out.

 

[VJV]

Will do. 90% water change just to be safe. No meds yet but as I said I had dosed the tank with Prazipro 5 days before adding the Wrasse (had a sleeper goby in there already going through prophylactic treatment). I believe Prazi is only effective for 72h but still will go ahead with the 90% water change just to be sure.

He was swimming about at the store and had just arrived two days earlier so let’s see.

 

[Brew12]

Will do. 90% water change just to be safe. No meds yet but as I said I had dosed the tank with Prazipro 5 days before adding the Wrasse (had a sleeper goby in there already going through prophylactic treatment). I believe Prazi is only effective for 72h but still will go ahead with the 90% water change just to be sure.

He was swimming about at the store and had just arrived two days earlier so let’s see.

I wouldn't do that large of a water change! When fish hide it is most likely due to stress. A huge water change will add to that stress. I would just continue to give it time unless you feel you have a different issue other than residual Prazipro.

 

[VJV]

Thanks Brew. It is a valid point. Will do 40% today and the other 40% tomorrow... two water changes might be two stressful events but it is just 8 gallons each.

 

[VJV]

The wrasse is now coming out and actively feeding (though the anthias will give It a hard time... note to self: do not QT aggressive eaters with shy fish). Still have not performed the water chase but will do in a couple of hours.

On another note, @4FordFamily (and others) have mentioned Coppersafe to be more suited to wrasse than Cupramine. My concern si that I have never used it before and do not know what the dosage per gallon should be to get to the desired concentration. The instructions tell you to dose 1 teaspoon per 4 gallons but do not give an indication what concentration will this achieve. I also bought this on eBay so not a clue how long it has been on shelf...

 

[VJV]

Also, just noticed that the expiry date was 07/09/17...

 

[Big G]

Also, just noticed that the expiry date was 07/09/17...

Therapeutic level of coppersafe is 1.75-2.00 Dose approximately 2 ml per gallon. How big is the tank?

 

[Bthomas]

Couple of questions on quarantining inverts
Im still cycling my display tank but was going to set up a seperate 10gallon for quarantining corals and inverts.
1- Can i start the quarantine for my cuc in the 10 gallon and then move them to the dt once cycle is complete to finish out the 76 day fallow period? Or would moving them to the dt reset the clock on the 76 days

2- can a coral/invert quarantine be one that is set up and taken down when needed? Example: set up tank a few days before new corals or inverts arrive (bare bottom, no live rock with seeded bio media from dt or with bottled bacteria) etc..
If so how do i keep inverts alive in a tank with no algae or fish waist for them to eat..

 

[Brew12]

The wrasse is now coming out and actively feeding (though the anthias will give It a hard time... note to self: do not QT aggressive eaters with shy fish). Still have not performed the water chase but will do in a couple of hours.

On another note, @4FordFamily (and others) have mentioned Coppersafe to be more suited to wrasse than Cupramine. My concern si that I have never used it before and do not know what the dosage per gallon should be to get to the desired concentration. The instructions tell you to dose 1 teaspoon per 4 gallons but do not give an indication what concentration will this achieve. I also bought this on eBay so not a clue how long it has been on shelf...

As far as shelf life, it will be fine. I put this together for a different post but I hope it helps. I love Coppersafe but it is one of the more confusing products on the market.

"So here is my best recommendation.

Actual dosing should be 1.6mL/gallon to 2.1mL/gallon. I recommend adding 1.6mL of coppersafe to 1 gallon of salt water and taking a test with your API kit. Compare this to your chart and try to think of this color as 1.5ppm, or the minimum recommended level. Then dose another 0.5mL Coppersafe into that gallon and take another test. Try to remember this shade as proper for 2ppm, or the highest level you want.

For slowly raising copper levels as is appropriate for Ich on all but the most sensitive fish, I recommend dosing 0.3mL/gallon every morning and evening for 3 days. This should get you to 1.8mL/gallon at the end for a concentration of 1.7ppm. Another 0.3mL/gallon dose will put you right at the top end if you want to add it."

 

[Brew12]

1- Can i start the quarantine for my cuc in the 10 gallon and then move them to the dt once cycle is complete to finish out the 76 day fallow period? Or would moving them to the dt reset the clock on the 76 days

Moving them would reset the clock for the tank. Adding a piece of coral or invert to a QT system resets the clock on that tank but it doesn't impact any other corals or inverts in that tank. Lets say you set up a QT system and add inverts. 30 days later you add a coral. You could still pull the inverts out and add them to your DT 46 day (76 days total) after adding the coral. If you decide to add a fish to this tank at some point, you would do that 76 days after adding the last invert coral.

I hope that makes sense.

2- can a coral/invert quarantine be one that is set up and taken down when needed? Example: set up tank a few days before new corals or inverts arrive (bare bottom, no live rock with seeded bio media from dt or with bottled bacteria) etc..

Yup. No different than a fish QT.

If so how do i keep inverts alive in a tank with no algae or fish waist for them to eat..

Depending on the invert you may want to use algae waffers, pellets, flake, or frozen foods. Very similar to what you would do if fish were in the system.

 

[VJV]

Therapeutic level of coppersafe is 1.75-2.00 Dose approximately 2 ml per gallon. How big is the tank?

Thanks. It is a IM Nuvo 24, so theoretically 24 gallons. However, I measured the fact quantity of water it took to fill and it is actually closer to 20 gallons. I always see people in general overstating by a large factor the actual volume of the aquariums basically just multiplying the dimensions forgetting that just by using actual water height (not glass height) and subtracting the glass thickness from the dimensions leads to a 20% plus lower actual volume. I firmly believe that a lot of the people that have bad results with medications and additives are simply overdosing because of this effect.

Sorry for the rant. In this case it is almost 20% less than the stated 24 gallons...

 

[VJV]

As far as shelf life, it will be fine. I put this together for a different post but I hope it helps. I love Coppersafe but it is one of the more confusing products on the market.

"So here is my best recommendation.

Actual dosing should be 1.6mL/gallon to 2.1mL/gallon. I recommend adding 1.6mL of coppersafe to 1 gallon of salt water and taking a test with your API kit. Compare this to your chart and try to think of this color as 1.5ppm, or the minimum recommended level. Then dose another 0.5mL Coppersafe into that gallon and take another test. Try to remember this shade as proper for 2ppm, or the highest level you want.

For slowly raising copper levels as is appropriate for Ich on all but the most sensitive fish, I recommend dosing 0.3mL/gallon every morning and evening for 3 days. This should get you to 1.8mL/gallon at the end for a concentration of 1.7ppm. Another 0.3mL/gallon dose will put you right at the top end if you want to add it."

What a dumb **** I am . When I saw the expiry date I threw it down the drain... But thank you for the dosage instructions. One question: would Salifert test work? I believe I read a post from Humble stating that it did but not sure now that you mention API...

 

[Brew12]

What a dumb **** I am . When I saw the expiry date I threw it down the drain... But thank you for the dosage instructions. One question: would Salifert test work? I believe I read a post from Humble stating that it did but not sure now that you mention API...

It happens!

No, the Salifert will work with Cupramine but the API is the only one I know of that will work on Coppersafe. Other than the higher dollar test kits like Chemetrics. And, because of test set accuracy, there is no reason to spend the extra money imo. Chelated and ionic copper require different test kits.

 

[Big G]

"So here is my best recommendation.

Actual dosing should be 1.6mL/gallon to 2.1mL/gallon. I recommend adding 1.6mL of coppersafe to 1 gallon of salt water and taking a test with your API kit. Compare this to your chart and try to think of this color as 1.5ppm, or the minimum recommended level. Then dose another 0.5mL Coppersafe into that gallon and take another test. Try to remember this shade as proper for 2ppm, or the highest level you want.

For slowly raising copper levels as is appropriate for Ich on all but the most sensitive fish, I recommend dosing 0.3mL/gallon every morning and evening for 3 days. This should get you to 1.8mL/gallon at the end for a concentration of 1.7ppm. Another 0.3mL/gallon dose will put you right at the top end if you want to add it."

+1 I have followed Brew's advice on this method and it works just great.

 

[Big G]

Thanks. It is a IM Nuvo 24, so theoretically 24 gallons. However, I measured the fact quantity of water it took to fill and it is actually closer to 20 gallons. I always see people in general overstating by a large factor the actual volume of the aquariums basically just multiplying the dimensions forgetting that just by using actual water height (not glass height) and subtracting the glass thickness from the dimensions leads to a 20% plus lower actual volume. I firmly believe that a lot of the people that have bad results with medications and additives are simply overdosing because of this effect.

Sorry for the rant. In this case it is almost 20% less than the stated 24 gallons...

Yes this is very true. On my 10 gal. QT the actual volume is just a bit more than 9.25 gallons. Being mindful of that, on the last day of adding copper, you need to test and creep up to the therapeutic level.