How to Quarantine

[VJV]

Thanks! I will add the sand when I get back home... assuming he is still alive... prior to buying the fish it stayed at the wholesaler facility for a month or more, as I was waiting for them to have the Melanurus as well. So I guess he has been sand”less” for almost two months now.

However, it seems that he is becoming more lethargic than when I first got him so I am afraid that something may be coming down with flukes...??? I need to check if he is breathing heavily but it does not seem to be.

On the other hand initially the Melanurus was the one that would lie down a lot and he is now vigorously out and about, and eating like a pig.

 

[VJV]

It is a Halichoeres Chrysus, so yes, it is a genuine yellow coris wrasse.

All my previous attempts to treat Wrasse prophylactically with copper (Cupramine, I actually have tried to order Coppersafe from Amazon’s a couple of times but never received the product) resulted in death so this time I decided to observe only in a QT with an oversized UV. I know the UV may mask potential diseases by preventing them to spread but not cure the fish which may end up in me adding an infected fish to my main display, but I am hoping that with extended QT and if no signs of ich or velvet manifest themselves I am good to go.

I intend to treat with Prazi anyway after I get them eating comfortably, but I may just go ahead and do it anyway if the yellow coris does not show signs of improving.

Does Prazi get absorbed by sand? I guess not but just to be certain.

 

[Humblefish]

Does Prazi get absorbed by sand? I guess not but just to be certain.

Prazi only needs an hour or so to do it's job, so I wouldn't worry too much about absorption/degradation.

Can you get Copper Power? That's basically the same as Coppersafe (chelated).

 

[VJV]

Prazi only needs an hour or so to do it's job, so I wouldn't worry too much about absorption/degradation.

Can you get Copper Power? That's basically the same as Coppersafe (chelated).

Also not available. And in Amazon.co.uk as of now they charge 75 pounds (that is some 100$!!!!) for a 16oz bottle of coppersafe, that may or may not show up at your door as per my previous experience.

I do have this at home (https://dailymed.nlm.nih.gov/dailym...954d-caa2-417d-b4d3-2e3775fe1107&type=display) but never used it as the treatment method in the instructions does not make sense to me given the ich lifecycle...

We will see how it goes.

 

[JCTReefer]

It is a Halichoeres Chrysus, so yes, it is a genuine yellow coris wrasse.

All my previous attempts to treat Wrasse prophylactically with copper (Cupramine, I actually have tried to order Coppersafe from Amazon’s a couple of times but never received the product) resulted in death so this time I decided to observe only in a QT with an oversized UV. I know the UV may mask potential diseases by preventing them to spread but not cure the fish which may end up in me adding an infected fish to my main display, but I am hoping that with extended QT and if no signs of ich or velvet manifest themselves I am good to go.

I intend to treat with Prazi anyway after I get them eating comfortably, but I may just go ahead and do it anyway if the yellow coris does not show signs of improving.

Does Prazi get absorbed by sand? I guess not but just to be certain.

I just finished a 30 day copper treatment on a Melanurus Wrasse and had good success by ramping up the levels to therapeutic over the course of a week. My target level was 1.75ppm using copper power. The Hanna copper checker made this really easy. Very accurate and easy to use. Works with all forms of copper also. No signs of appetite suppression either. Copper is so easy to overdose if your not careful and those colorimetric kits are hard to read. A shallow Tupperware or glass dish works really well for a sand bed also! An inch or two of sand would be plenty. I used Fiji pink sand. I read it doesn't absorb copper. It took the Melanurus a week or so before it "discovered" its sand bed. Before this it would just lay on its side at the bottom of the tank. Kinda freaked me out. I thought it was dead for a second there. Two rounds of General Cure had no adverse effects on the Wrasse either. If you do decide to treat, this method worked really well for me. Lots of good advise on this website for sure!!

 

[VJV]

Thanks! I have been with this thread since the beginning and chipped in from time to time. As you say it is a great resource for all things QT.

I do not have access to Coppersafe or copper power(which are chelated copper). Only Cupramine (which is ionic copper), and there lies the problem. In my experience wrasses and Cupramine do not do well. I raise my copper levels even slower, taking up to 10 days to reach therapeutic levels (Cupramine) and still usually at the 0,20 mark wrasses start to struggle.

Also do not have access to general cure as these products are not available in Europe currently.

I also developed my own method to minimize fish exposure to copper (and have posted about it several pages back) which is always beneficial given copper is very harsh in the fish. In a nutshell, given Trophonts are only attached to the fish for a maximum of 7 days, if after 8 or 9 (to be on the safe side) days at full concentration you transfer the fish to a new sterile tank for observation you should be ich free. Any free swimming Trophonts or Theronts during that time will be killed by the copper so cannot infect the fish.

This works great but in my case only with fish that can handle Cupramine, and my experience with wrasses has been very bad .

 

[sc_reefer]

YouTube Channel
https://bit.ly/2k9C8ue
My friend had a medium size blue tang that he gave me and his tank was ICK free as well as mine. After putting the tang in my tank 3 days later the tang had ICK. after 7 days the ICK was gone and he is doing just fine. From being in the hobby for some time now i know ICK lies dormant in all saltwater tanks. As long as you feed and keep your fish healthy with rich foods they will fight the ICK off. Stress produces ICK when a new fish is introduced to a new environment. Once he is acclimated to his environment he will fight off the parasite.

 

[JCTReefer]

Thanks! I have been with this thread since the beginning and chipped in from time to time. As you say it is a great resource for all things QT.

I do not have access to Coppersafe or copper power(which are chelated copper). Only Cupramine (which is ionic copper), and there lies the problem. In my experience wrasses and Cupramine do not do well. I raise my copper levels even slower, taking up to 10 days to reach therapeutic levels (Cupramine) and still usually at the 0,20 mark wrasses start to struggle.

Also do not have access to general cure as these products are not available in Europe currently.

I also developed my own method to minimize fish exposure to copper (and have posted about it several pages back) which is always beneficial given copper is very harsh in the fish. In a nutshell, given Trophonts are only attached to the fish for a maximum of 7 days, if after 8 or 9 (to be on the safe side) days at full concentration you transfer the fish to a new sterile tank for observation you should be ich free. Any free swimming Trophonts or Theronts during that time will be killed by the copper so cannot infect the fish.

This works great but in my case only with fish that can handle Cupramine, and my experience with wrasses has been very bad .

That's crazy about amazon charging that much for copper power! And even crazier you didn't receive the product!! I believe the company that makes it is based out of Newton, NJ .. It's about 20$ on amazon here I the U.S for the 16oz bottle. They are one of the highest ranked online retailers here in the states. I wonder what makes the U.K. amazon different. I don't blame you for not ordering again. [emoji30]

 

[saltwaterlover]

How many fish can you fit in a 20 gallon QT tank?

 

[JCTReefer]

How many fish can you fit in a 20 gallon QT tank?

That's kind of a difficult question. It really depends on what kind of fish or fishes you're talking about. And also what size they're being purchased at. A 20 gallon could be to small for a single fish. It just depends. And of course there can be compatibility issues. Especially in the confines of a small quarantine, which might not be such of an issue in a large display tank. I actually use a 20 gallon long Qt tank. My last round of fish consisted of 3 azure damsels, 1 royal gramma and 1 Melanurus Wrasse. The damsels were less than an inch long. The gramma was just over an inch. And the wrasse was about 3 inches. I had no issues with that size bioload. And there was no aggression between the group. Aside from the damsels pestering each other here and there. Typical damsel behavior.

 

[HotRocks]

YouTube Channel
https://bit.ly/2k9C8ue
My friend had a medium size blue tang that he gave me and his tank was ICK free as well as mine. After putting the tang in my tank 3 days later the tang had ICK. after 7 days the ICK was gone and he is doing just fine. From being in the hobby for some time now i know ICK lies dormant in all saltwater tanks. As long as you feed and keep your fish healthy with rich foods they will fight the ICK off. Stress produces ICK when a new fish is introduced to a new environment. Once he is acclimated to his environment he will fight off the parasite.

Ich is a living parasite. It's either in your tank or not. It is possible to have an ich free tank. Certain fish are more succeptable than others.

It's also possible to keep fish in the presence of ich. Complete erradication is also possible, if proper fallow period is followed and fish entering the "ich free" system are treated properly before added.

This may explain it better:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/

 

[VJV]

How many fish can you fit in a 20 gallon QT tank?

Also, bear in mind that I quote the net volume (less glass thickness, less water level, etc).

This aquarium is a Innovative Marine Nuvo 24, só theoretically a 24 gallon.

It also has some nice dimensions as it is 36” long so fish have room to swim.

As said above, depends. I have just QTd 5 lyretail anthias and they were happy and active during the whole process. For a medium/adult sized tang I would use a bigger tank.

I also use filtration media that I remove from my main tank (Seachem Matrix) sump, and has been there for years so I never have ammonia. Of course, I have an ammonia badge to make sure, use a protein skimmer and do sizable water changes.

 

[Trickman2]

Outstanding! If you need any help/have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Chloroquine phosphate where is the best place to get this?

 

[Humblefish]

Chloroquine phosphate where is the best place to get this?

I had a batch tested from NFP (many thanks to @Christoph) and it was 95.9% pure: http://store.nationalfishpharm.com/NFP-products-Chloroquine-Phosphate-59567.Item.html

That's usable, you would just need to overdose a little ~ 50mg/gal. Obviously I cannot guarantee every batch of CP bought from NFP will test the same.

 

[ReefWithCare]

I had a batch tested from NFP (many thanks to @Christoph) and it was 95.9% pure: http://store.nationalfishpharm.com/NFP-products-Chloroquine-Phosphate-59567.Item.html

That's usable, you would just need to overdose a little ~ 50mg/gal. Obviously I cannot guarantee every batch of CP bought from NFP will test the same.

Did he provide a COA to you? What did it claim before you tested?

 

[Humblefish]

Did he provide a COA to you? What did it claim before you tested?

He claimed it was, "99.4% pure and meets the USP standards." o_O

I knew both claims were B S, which is why I had it professionally tested. ;)

 

[ReefWithCare]

He claimed it was, "99.4% pure and meets the USP standards." [emoji50]

I knew both claims were B S, which is why I had it tested. ;)

Ha! Well, what others are you planning to test? Would be very curious if you test out Cayman or SC biotechnology [emoji28]

How exactly are you testing? Can you post the actual test docs?

 

[Humblefish]

Would be very curious if you test out Cayman of SC biotechnology [emoji28]

Link to buy?

How exactly are you testing? Can you post the actual test docs?

@Christoph, my European chemist partner, would need to answer this. :)

 

[ReefWithCare]

Link to buy?



@Christoph, my European chemist partner, would need to answer this. :)

https://www.caymanchem.com/product/14194. It's expensive af ($36 to ship :eek:) --- which I figure is a good thing ;).

National Fish Pharmancy sent me a COA with 98% purity - but it was riddled with Chinese text so I ran :confused:

 

[Humblefish]

https://www.caymanchem.com/product/14194. It's expensive af ($36 to ship :eek:) --- which I figure is a good thing ;).

National Fish Pharmancy sent me a COA with 98% purity - but it was riddled with Chinese text so I ran :confused:

Is this the place that supposedly sources their CP from India (instead of China)?