How to Quarantine
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Humblefish
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Since the velvet epidemic, I've adopted a different QT protocol. I treat all incoming fish with either Chloroquine or chelated copper for 14 days, and then transfer to another QT for additional treatment (e.g. Prazipro, food soaking GC + Focus for intestinal issues, antibiotics if needed, etc.) The 14 day method works because you are transferring the fish away from any unhatched tomonts (left behind in QT#1), and by dosing CP or copper first you are prophylactically addressing the most virulent disease you are likely to face: Marine Velvet Disease.
EDIT: I have been experimenting with combining CP (or copper) + powder praziquantel + powder metronidazole (i.e. API General Cure) in QT#1 before transferring. And that strategy is working out pretty well.
So what would the new protocol look like for new incoming fish?
- Temp acclimate
- 5-minute freshwater dip
- Transfer to a Rally or Acriflavine-MS bath for 45-minutes? (I've seen some posts say 60 - 90 minutes)
- 1 tsp of Rally per gallon
- Transfer to a Malachite Green/Methylene Blue bath for 45-minutes
- Could nitrofuran green be used in place of methylene blue?
- Transfer to QT#1 for 14-days
- CP 40 - 60/mgs or 80/mg per gallon for an active infestation OR use copper for CP sensitive fish
- Powder praziquantel (not Prazipro) at 12.5/mg per gallon
- Powder metronidazole at 12.5/mg per gallon
- OR API General Cure (as stated?)
- Feed food soaked in GC or wait until QT#2?
- Transfer to QT#2 for 14-days as general observation or active treatment
- Transfer to the display tank if no diseases pop up after 14-days since last medication is used and/or a disease presented itself
64Ivy
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Question people: How would you go about quarantining a bunch of fish at a time? I'm considering going with a group of Azure Chromis next time around: say, in the 15-20 range (I have a large DT) and all I've got is 2 20g QT tanks in which to quarantine them. Even splitting them in half could mean 10 to a tank. Is that considered way overcrowded? Unless there are problems, I QT a minimum of 8 weeks.
Wilsonfeliz
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Since the velvet epidemic, I've adopted a different QT protocol. I treat all incoming fish with either Chloroquine or chelated copper for 14 days, and then transfer to another QT for additional treatment (e.g. Prazipro, food soaking GC + Focus for intestinal issues, antibiotics if needed, etc.) The 14 day method works because you are transferring the fish away from any unhatched tomonts (left behind in QT#1), and by dosing CP or copper first you are prophylactically addressing the most virulent disease you are likely to face: Marine Velvet Disease.
EDIT: I have been experimenting with combining CP (or copper) + powder praziquantel + powder metronidazole (i.e. API General Cure) in QT#1 before transferring. And that strategy is working out pretty well.
Can i use Seachem Cupramine instead of Chloroquine or chelated copper ? If not, for what can I use the cupramine?
Another question, what is the dose of prazipro ml/gal of water?
Thanks in advance!
@Humblefish or @HotRocks how do you physically transfer the fish from quarantine tank #1 to quarantine tank #2 after the first 14 day treatment? I’m getting ready to do that with 2 flashers. Do you literally net the fish out of the first tank and drop them into the second?Since the velvet epidemic, I've adopted a different QT protocol. I treat all incoming fish with either Chloroquine or chelated copper for 14 days, and then transfer to another QT for additional treatment (e.g. Prazipro, food soaking GC + Focus for intestinal issues, antibiotics if needed, etc.) The 14 day method works because you are transferring the fish away from any unhatched tomonts (left behind in QT#1), and by dosing CP or copper first you are prophylactically addressing the most virulent disease you are likely to face: Marine Velvet Disease.
EDIT: I have been experimenting with combining CP (or copper) + powder praziquantel + powder metronidazole (i.e. API General Cure) in QT#1 before transferring. And that strategy is working out pretty well.
HotRocks
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If you know you had either ich or velvet in the tank I do the following.
Mix up a new 5gal bucket of SW. Match temp and salinity to both QTs. Also dose copper to match QT 1.
Take net one and net fish from QT 1 to bucket.
Take a new sterile net or by hand and move from bucket to QT 2.
This is an extra step. But if there are tomonts releasing free swimmers in the copper QT. This extra transfer would hopefully prevent moving it to the sterile QT 2.
I'm overcautious. It's not likely to transfer a tomont. In theory it's possible.
Thank you!
Do you generally do a reef rally / other medicated dip straight out of the bag from the store, or hold them overnight and discard that first tank of water/ decontaminate the equipment? Just wondering how the stress of traveling from store to home affects the fish right before a dip.
mattzang
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ok posted this in another thread, but was redirected here.
I have a DD ORA orchid dottyback and liveaquaria red lined wrasse en route friday.
I have a 10 gallon tank w/ some way oversized HOB filter. I read to take any rock out so I'll just do a little tupperware of sand for the wrasse and some PVC pipes for the dotty. I haven't really cycled it other than I have some extra live rock from my DT sitting in there currently, but I have a ton of marinepure balls from my sump I could put it the HOB or just put them in the tank if they don't fit in there. Also probably going to order some biospira just to be safe.
medication wise.. I found that wrasses aren't big fans of copper, correct? so I'm thinking I'll stick to safer stuff for my first trip through here.
and also, how often should I do a 2-3 gallon water change? should it be brand new saltwater or just DT water?
I have a DD ORA orchid dottyback and liveaquaria red lined wrasse en route friday.
I have a 10 gallon tank w/ some way oversized HOB filter. I read to take any rock out so I'll just do a little tupperware of sand for the wrasse and some PVC pipes for the dotty. I haven't really cycled it other than I have some extra live rock from my DT sitting in there currently, but I have a ton of marinepure balls from my sump I could put it the HOB or just put them in the tank if they don't fit in there. Also probably going to order some biospira just to be safe.
medication wise.. I found that wrasses aren't big fans of copper, correct? so I'm thinking I'll stick to safer stuff for my first trip through here.
and also, how often should I do a 2-3 gallon water change? should it be brand new saltwater or just DT water?
CC13
Valuable Member
Below are pics of my 29 gallon QT. Please share pics/info about how you QT!
My 29 gal "fishless" frag tank. I place all corals/inverts in here for 76 days before they go into my DT. Just cheap T5 lighting, Koralia powerhead, HOB powerfilter, heater, rock/sand and a frag rack gets the job done.
More recent pic of my frag tank I use to QT:
Good write-up.
How do you suggest SPS or anemone QT that have higher needs (lighting, stability, ect).
Hi and welcome. Your filtration plans seem adequate. By all means add the seeded marine pure to the QT and add the biospira. However, what you REALLY need is a Seachem ammonia strip (or a Seneye reef that will monitor your ammonia down to ridiculously low levels and send you warnings if it ever rises to dangerous levels, and that you can access from anywhere in the world. Maybe a bit too much but it is the best way to closely and constantly monitor ammonia, even when not at home). That will determine how often and how big of a water change you will need. In my QT tanks I tend to do large (50% or more) weekly water changes. Probably unnecessary (and the Seachem strip never even hints at anything else other than pure yellow) but better safe than sorry. The fish will be in a inhospitable environment and attached with chemicals so the least you can do is try to keep pristine water.
As far as copper goes with wrasses it tends not to be a good combination (six lines will breeze through it), especially with Cupramine. Copper Safe seems to be better tolerated but I have never tried it.
However, if you do not treat wi copper you need to be aware that you may introduce ich to your system, rendering future QT efforts mostly useless... an extra long observation period at least would be recommende but you need to weigh the pros and cons.
Good luck
mattzang
2500 Club Member
thanks, yeah I ordered an eheim heater and seachem ammonia strip (fun fact I had one on my main tank for awhile, got tired of looking at it and threw it away when I switched tanks, love wasting $7!) last night after perusing some of these QT threads.
So it doesn't seem like there are any big issues with the dottyback in the QT, but it seems wrasses aren't fans of copper and also not big fans of some other meds.
I'm thinking my plan is: observe for a week just let them hang out and get used to things. Then would a fresh water dip be smart to see if I need to treat for any worms or parasites?
I get that without copper I can't be certain I won't get ich, but I already had ich in my DT a few months ago. Only one fish got it somehow and I did the polyplab medic and everyone has seemed fine since (I'm aware the medic is possibly snake oil, but hey it seemed to work along with more feeding with vitamins)
What I'm really super concerned about is this velvet stuff. It seems the only solution on that is copper or some medication you have to get from a vet? And that medication is a big time no go for wrasses (dang wrasses!). So I guess I'm wondering how long I need to leave them in the QT to be pretty sure they won't bring it to my DT?
I would say the following:
- at the very least treat with Prazi once the fish is eating. I have not had issues with wrasse and Prazi in the 4 or 5 times I tried.
- TTM would take care of ich with zero medicine. Of course it is a much more involved process that would require your Daily attention for two weeks
- Prazi + TTM should stress the fish quite a bit so if they do have velvet I would say most likely it will manifest at some point (not 100% but I would say very likely)
Based on the above you likely have ich in your display. I have lost half my fish twice before starting to properly QT everything. I know it is a pain and I have also lost a fair share of fish during prophylactic treatment but the fish in my display are already with me for some years and never again did I loose one. The day you introduce a sensitive and aggressive fish there is a high possibility of an outbreak and it is very frustrating to see all your QT effort going down the drain.
There are a lot of people very successful and experienced not quarantining and I envy them. Whether is pure luck or just very good husbandry is up for debate. Probably both.
Anyway, as long as you are making an educated decision and know the risks it is obviously your call.
If you can do Prazi + TTM + 1 month observation it should take you a long way IMHO. At the very least Prazi + 1-2 months observation.
I can’t get Chloroquine Phosphate so never used it and am not sure if it is ok or not.
@4FordFamily has had extensive experience with wrasses (tolerance varies a lot from one species to another) and @Humblefish is the master so I am sure they can provide a bit more insight.
- at the very least treat with Prazi once the fish is eating. I have not had issues with wrasse and Prazi in the 4 or 5 times I tried.
- TTM would take care of ich with zero medicine. Of course it is a much more involved process that would require your Daily attention for two weeks
- Prazi + TTM should stress the fish quite a bit so if they do have velvet I would say most likely it will manifest at some point (not 100% but I would say very likely)
Based on the above you likely have ich in your display. I have lost half my fish twice before starting to properly QT everything. I know it is a pain and I have also lost a fair share of fish during prophylactic treatment but the fish in my display are already with me for some years and never again did I loose one. The day you introduce a sensitive and aggressive fish there is a high possibility of an outbreak and it is very frustrating to see all your QT effort going down the drain.
There are a lot of people very successful and experienced not quarantining and I envy them. Whether is pure luck or just very good husbandry is up for debate. Probably both.
Anyway, as long as you are making an educated decision and know the risks it is obviously your call.
If you can do Prazi + TTM + 1 month observation it should take you a long way IMHO. At the very least Prazi + 1-2 months observation.
I can’t get Chloroquine Phosphate so never used it and am not sure if it is ok or not.
@4FordFamily has had extensive experience with wrasses (tolerance varies a lot from one species to another) and @Humblefish is the master so I am sure they can provide a bit more insight.
pluikens
Valuable Member
I'm starting my second round of QT tomorrow. I'll be taking in two One Spot Foxface to QT in a 20 long. I have read that they can be temperamental towards one another. Should I separate them with some egg crate to split the tank in two or do you think I'll be ok with the PVC joints I have in the tank? Both are about 2.5 inches in length. Also, do you guys see an issue with me treating prazipro after a few days and then doing the standard Copper Power treatment following? I'd like to keep my display as ich free as possible. Thanks!
I’m currently quarantining 2 wrasses with chelated copper (copper power). Search Hotrocks and Humblefish. Using the new Hanna copper checker and bringing the copper level up slowly allowed me to do this successfully. Mine just went through 14 days of copper and now using gc in a separate tank. So far, it’s working extremely well.
I would quarantine together but have a divider ready to go in case you see a need to separate them. I like doing copper first then prazi because of the high rate of velvet currently.
Cupramine is non chelated copper and unfortunately is the only form I have access to. I raise Cupramine concentration 0,05 per day, so it takes me 10 days to reach the 0,50 therapeutic range, 5x the recommended time.
Hot rocks work with Hanna was brilliant and indeed provides a more accurate and safe way to measure.
2,5 inches seem pretty small so should be ok, but I would have the eggcrate on hand just in case.
I typically wait one week in order to get them aggressively eating before two rounds of Prazi, followed by copper treatment. I believe you should be fine [emoji4]
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