How To Rinse New Sand With Less Water

Dan_P

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Recently, I spent time in the lab looking at why so much water is needed to rinse the fines from new dry aragonite sand (Caribsea). I blame @brandon429 for such an odd pursuit. Fines are the very small bits of sand that can cloud aquarium water for days when they are not rinsed from the sand. Our current method of washing a bag of sand is to place it in a bucket, add water, swirl the mixture, pour off the cloudy water, add more water, repeat and repeat and repeat and repeat. What I found explains why we have to repeat the rinse cycle so many times: we don’t mix the water-sand mixture vigorously or long enough.

Fines seem to tenaciously adhere to larger sand grains and a minimum amount of force is needed to knock them loose. Swirling a sand-water mixture for a short while delivers only enough energy to knock off a small portion of the fines. This is one reason why our sand rinse method requires protracted swirling. The reason for the large amount of water use is caused by the assumption that once the water becomes cloudy, it must be replaced with clean water to continue fines removal. Under laboratory conditions, most of the fines in a batch of sand can be suspended in one volume of wash water. In the plot below, data from lab mixing experiments demonstrate this.

5D49499E-B0FE-4F8E-BFC4-710756EF9E74.png


In the first experiment, 20 g of sand was repeatedly rinsed with clean water. Each rinse used 40 mL of water and was mixed for one minute with a 30 watt vortex mixer. This represents the standard sand wash procedure. The orange line shows the sum of fines suspended over time. A little over 500 mg was removed with 360 mL of water. The experiment was then repeated but the rinse water was not changed but mixed until roughly 500 mg of fines were suspended. Only 40 mL of water were used. Clean water does seem to play a beneficial role in fines removal because less than 80% of the fines are removed for the same total mixing time in the second experiment. After obtaining these results, I wondered whether an outboard motor would be needed to stir a bag of sand and water enough to duplicate these 20 g experimental results.

My only scale up experiment was 441 g of sand and 900 mL water, only a small portion of a bag of sand but large enough to provide a hint of the power needed to mix a large batch. For mixing I used a power drill fitted with a paint mixer (see photo).

9B79C616-8ED9-4E62-8BC1-44B79BA0444F.jpeg


As with the 20 g experiment, the wash water was not changed. The experiment was conducted in an open 2.5 gallon bucket, which limited how fast the mixture could be stirred without ejecting it from the bucket. The plot below compares the relative effectiveness of fines suspension for the vortex mixer with 20 g of sand and the power drill with 441 g. The large scale experiment suspended less than 75% of the fines for the same amount of time. I suspect going to a covered bucket and the drill at full speed might have brought the large scale results closer. These result do confirm that a full bag of sand would require longer mixing time with a power drill if an outboard motor is unavailable.

2AF2D29B-EB93-475B-93AE-F01CB91552D1.png


These results are not sufficient to provide specific recommendations on the amount of water and mixing time needed for rinsing a bag of sand, though I would say you probably cannot over mix a sand-water mixture and you will be able to cut way back on rinse water amount.
 

brandon429

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great job this will be first link in our sand rinse thread

your detritus study is on page one as well, excellence
 
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rmurken

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These result do confirm that a full bag of sand would require longer mixing time with a power drill if an outboard motor is unavailable.

This was the highlight for me. Is it dry humor, or do you have an outboard and a massive container lying around? Either way, fascinating read and love it. Will use.

I have been wondering how much it helps to change rinse water in a lot of situations. Filter socks, GAC, sand, etc. but I am compulsive, and my use cases don’t involve very big volumes of water or material to be rinsed.
 
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This was the highlight for me. Is it dry humor, or do you have an outboard and a massive container lying around? Either way, fascinating read and love it. Will use.

I have been wondering how much it helps to change rinse water in a lot of situations. Filter socks, GAC, sand, etc. but I am compulsive, and my use cases don’t involve very big volumes of water or material to be rinsed.
Rinsing filter media and GAC are tough to call too! I solved the filter media call by rinsing to remove the big stuff and then a soak in 1% bleach 6-24 hours. For GAC, after rinsing and charging the reactor, I direct the output into the filter overnight.
 

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I solved the filter media call by rinsing to remove the big stuff and then a soak in 1% bleach 6-24 hours. For GAC, after rinsing and charging the reactor, I direct the output into the filter overnight.

I love the idea of running GAC output to the filter for a little while after replacing. Truly it takes a lot of rinsing to get it dust-free.

I am a skeptic on bleach for mechanical media—two reasons. First my thinking is if I get it nearly perfectly clean, that’s basically as good as perfectly clean. A tiny bit of residual gunk won’t make a difference. Second, I don’t know (not that it’s not well known/knowable—I may be a dunce) that bleach actually removes organics. It makes the organic stuff lighter in color certainly—but does it then leave the media, or is it still there, just lighter-colored and oxidized? Weigh that against the possibility of not sufficiently drying or neutralizing the chlorine residual, and I figure better avoided.

By no means do I think bleach is dangerous or bad when used appropriately. Bleach is great stuff. Disinfects like a champ and then with time or a glug of dechlor, disappears into thin air.
 
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I love the idea of running GAC output to the filter for a little while after replacing. Truly it takes a lot of rinsing to get it dust-free.

I am a skeptic on bleach for mechanical media—two reasons. First my thinking is if I get it nearly perfectly clean, that’s basically as good as perfectly clean. A tiny bit of residual gunk won’t make a difference. Second, I don’t know (not that it’s not well known/knowable—I may be a dunce) that bleach actually removes organics. It makes the organic stuff lighter in color certainly—but does it then leave the media, or is it still there, just lighter-colored and oxidized? Weigh that against the possibility of not sufficiently drying or neutralizing the chlorine residual, and I figure better avoided.

By no means do I think bleach is dangerous or bad when used appropriately. Bleach is great stuff. Disinfects like a champ and then with time or a glug of dechlor, disappears into thin air.
I know where you are coming from on bleach use. My sole reason is that it works quickly to break up filter clogging organic matter. I am less concerned about residual chlorine because I rinse the filter medium well, dry over night and know resudual Cl2 is rapidly destroyed by aquarium water. I measured the chlorine demand of my aquarium water.
 

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great job this will be first link in our sand rinse thread

your detritus study is on page one as well, excellence
@brandon429 - would you provide a link to that thread? Also - can tap water be used for initial rinsing with a RO/DI final or ??
 

brandon429

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Yes we do years of tap pre rinsing just like that


rinse till clear final rinse in ro or salt really clean outcome
 

Gort

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I like the idea somebody posted of using a paint paddle on a drill to really agitate the mix. Rather than a bucket, I have a large tote I could use
 

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