Hydros problems

[Ed Hutchings]

Hello all. I have a Hydros X4 I bought used maybe 2 years ago. I've done a couple firmware updates on it and when logging in it seems to be up to date. It does not prompt me to update the software.

It had worked flawless for about a year. Then it seemed the sump level sensor quit working correctly. It reads wet when it isn't.

Then a few months later the temp sensor stopped working. I figured it needed a new sensor. Bought a new sensor, same thing. I even moved the new sensor location from channel 3 to channel 4. Turned on that channel, same thing.

At this point it only seems like the PH probe is working.

I've powered it down then back up multiple times with no change to anything. It goes through a multi colored light cycle, it looks like the unit is functioning, It just isn't reading sensors.

I'm going to contact Coralvue Monday but thought I'd ask here, if anyone has had similar problems of if anyone had any words of wisdom.

TIA

Ed

 

[n2585722]

Power down the controller and remove everything from the sense ports. Power it back up and plug in the temp sensor where it is setup to plug in and see if it is working. If it is then start plugging things back in one at a time until they are either all plugged back in or things quit working. If you plug something back in and things quit working chances are that is you faulty device. If the temp sensor does not work when it is plugged back in it could be the issue. If it is you will need to power down again to reset the 5v overload circuit. Then power back up and start plugging things back in again one at a time but leave the temp sensor off since it did not work when it was the only thing. All the sense ports share the same 5v supply and if the sensor requires 5v to work then that sensor will quit working if the 5v gets loaded down. If the 5v drops out the only way to reset it is to power down and power back up.

 

[Ed Hutchings]

That was great advice. Did as you said and found I have a bad tank level sensor. Temp works along with the sump level that had seemed to stop working prior to the temp sensor going kaput. Thank you very much!

 

[n2585722]

I have had my first Hydros an X4 since they first came out. I am up to 14 controllers now so I have quite a bit of experience now so I have known about the 5v supply for a while. It has a over current cutoff to protect it but the only way to reset it is to power it down and power it back up without whatever is loading it down connected to the ports. Disconnecting everything form the sense ports and connecting them back one at a time until they are all connected or it quits again is the quickest way to find the issue, I have only had it happen once though in over 3 years.

 

[Ed Hutchings]

Being an automotive diagnostic specialist with over 30 years experience, your procedure spoke to me in my language. Shared 5v circuits in the automotive world work basically the same way. Main difference being they won't typically shut the 5v ref circuit down, the "bad" sensor will just pull the circuit down.

Thanks again. Made total sense when I read it.

 

[Ed Hutchings]

Good morning Danny. Hoping you can answer a question or two for me. Did some searching and couldn't find an answer.

I want to run 3 devices that require a drive port. I only have 2. I want to run 2 dosers and a water solenoid. How would I go about that?

Do they sell additional, single 110v ac/12v dc converters? I looked and could not find anything like that from them. Hate to chop up wiring harnesses to make it work even if it's only 2 wires.

I also need a replacement water level sensor and can't find where to buy online. Looks like you can't buy direct from them and BRS doesn't have one in stock.

TIA

 

[n2585722]

Good morning Danny. Hoping you can answer a question or two for me. Did some searching and couldn't find an answer.

I want to run 3 devices that require a drive port. I only have 2. I want to run 2 dosers and a water solenoid. How would I go about that?

Do they sell additional, single 110v ac/12v dc converters? I looked and could not find anything like that from them. Hate to chop up wiring harnesses to make it work even if it's only 2 wires.

I also need a replacement water level sensor and can't find where to buy online. Looks like you can't buy direct from them and BRS doesn't have one in stock.

TIA

If it is a Hydros simple doser you can use a Kamoer 12v pump power supply for it and use on a AC outlet. I would not use one on a wifi strip but a XP8 or Launch AC outlet would be ok to use. Have you checked Saltwater Aquarium or Premium Aquatics for Hydros equipment? Aqua Cave has a power supply https://aquacave.com/kamoer-x1pro-hydros-dosing-pump-power-supply.html . They may also have one of the sensors.

 

[Ed Hutchings]

If it is a Hydros simple doser you can use a Kamoer 12v pump power supply for it and use on a AC outlet. I would not use one on a wifi strip but a XP8 or Launch AC outlet would be ok to use. Have you checked Saltwater Aquarium or Premium Aquatics for Hydros equipment? Aqua Cave has a power supply https://aquacave.com/kamoer-x1pro-hydros-dosing-pump-power-supply.html . They may also have one of the sensors.

Yep that was what I'm after. Thank you for that. My thinking was plug that into the Hydros power strip. Should be able to use that to activate a water solenoid for top off based on the level sensor, yes? And use the 2 drive ports for doser pumps.

 

[n2585722]

Yep that was what I'm after. Thank you for that. My thinking was plug that into the Hydros power strip. Should be able to use that to activate a water solenoid for top off based on the level sensor, yes? And use the 2 drive ports for doser pumps.

Just make sure you are not using a wifi power strip for that. If communication is lost between the controller and power strip and that outlet is on it will stay on until communication is restored or power is removed from the power strip. So do not use them for ATO, AWC or dosing. A XP8 which is a controller with 8 outlet or one of the 4 outlet on a Launch would be ok to use do ATO, AWC or dosing since they are directly controlled within a controller.

 

[Ed Hutchings]

Just make sure you are not using a wifi power strip for that. If communication is lost between the controller and power strip and that outlet is on it will stay on until communication is restored or power is removed from the power strip. So do not use them for ATO, AWC or dosing. A XP8 which is a controller with 8 outlet or one of the 4 outlet on a Launch would be ok to use do ATO, AWC or dosing since they are directly controlled within a controller.

I guess I'm feeling a bit hardheaded this morning. Are you saying you would NOT use the Hydros power strip for this? I had planned on using it for the ATO and just use an on/off solenoid run off my RO/DI whole house setup. Use the new triple optical sensor to turn it on and off.

 

[MarineandReef Jaron]

He is saying to use the XP8 not the WiFi power Strip.

This one https://www.marineandreef.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RHS64138
Noth This One https://www.marineandreef.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RHS64115

 

[Ed Hutchings]

He is saying to use the XP8 not the WiFi power Strip.

This one https://www.marineandreef.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RHS64138
Noth This One https://www.marineandreef.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RHS64115

I gotcha. I do much better with pictures LOL

Unfortunately the "not this one" is the one I currently have and had planned on using.

 

[MarineandReef Jaron]

I gotcha. I do much better with pictures LOL

Unfortunately the "not this one" is the one I currently have and had planned on using.

The WiFi strips do not have their own memory and processor so if they are disconnected from the internet they will stay in whatever state they are left in. For an ATO this is unacceptable because if the internet drops right as the pump is pumping it can cause a flood and eventually cause your ATO pump to run dry.

The WiFi strips are great for a lot of things like a return pump, skimmer, powerheads, UV sterilizer, and even lights where 30 extra minutes on or off until the WiFi comes back on is not a problem.

 

[jnbrex]

I gotcha. I do much better with pictures LOL

Unfortunately the "not this one" is the one I currently have and had planned on using.

+1, do not use a WiFi strip for anything being added to the tank like ATO or any type of dosing. That’s an easy way to crash your tank and/or flood your house if you ever have your WiFi go out at the wrong moment.

 

[Ed Hutchings]

The WiFi strips do not have their own memory and processor so if they are disconnected from the internet they will stay in whatever state they are left in. For an ATO this is unacceptable because if the internet drops right as the pump is pumping it can cause a flood and eventually cause your ATO pump to run dry.

The WiFi strips are great for a lot of things like a return pump, skimmer, powerheads, UV sterilizer, and even lights where 30 extra minutes on or off until the WiFi comes back on is not a problem.

Makes sense.

 

[n2585722]

Makes sense.

You can always get an X2 or XD for more drive ports. If you do not already have a collective you would also need a command bus cable which you would need even if you had a collective since you are adding another controller. You would also need at least on terminator also for a small collective. When it starts getting larger you will need 2 terminators but that is the most you will need per collective. The X2 has 2 drive ports and 2 sense ports. The XD has 3 drive ports and a power supply so if you have one of the power supplies that connect directly to a command bus cable you will have to remove it but the XD supply will provide power to the command bus so it is not needed and it has no isolation. The XD does since it is built into the controller and the power supply connects to a power port instead of a command bus port. Also the XD drive ports and support more power per port than the normal X2 and X4 ports can.

 

[Malum Argenteum]

The WiFi strips do not have their own memory and processor so if they are disconnected from the internet they will stay in whatever state they are left in.

The Marine And Reef description claims differently: "One thing that should be pointed out is that Hydros talks to the outlets directly on WiFi. No cloud interaction is involved. Thus, as long as your WiFi hub is operating, the outlets will work even if the outbound Internet connection fails."

 

[n2585722]

The Marine And Reef description claims differently: "One thing that should be pointed out is that Hydros talks to the outlets directly on WiFi. No cloud interaction is involved. Thus, as long as your WiFi hub is operating, the outlets will work even if the outbound Internet connection fails."

You are correct that communication is local wifi between the controllers and the wifi strips but still if wifi communication is interrupted while an output is on and it is dosing or ATO or AWC that output will stay on until communication has been restored no matter how long it takes. With the controllers that have the output directly on the controller you can setup what happens if any control inputs become lost but you cannot do that with a wifi power strip if it is communication between the controlling controller and the wifi strip. You can set it on the controller side but that will only work if the controller still has communications with the wifi strip. So I do not recommend them for ATO, AWC or dosing. Heaters would be ok if the heaters themselves have a backup off like a built in thermostat.

 

[Malum Argenteum]

Right. I was making a point about the necessity of an internet connection.

 

[Peair]

Hello all. I have a Hydros X4 I bought used maybe 2 years ago. I've done a couple firmware updates on it and when logging in it seems to be up to date. It does not prompt me to update the software.

It had worked flawless for about a year. Then it seemed the sump level sensor quit working correctly. It reads wet when it isn't.

Then a few months later the temp sensor stopped working. I figured it needed a new sensor. Bought a new sensor, same thing. I even moved the new sensor location from channel 3 to channel 4. Turned on that channel, same thing.

At this point it only seems like the PH probe is working.

I've powered it down then back up multiple times with no change to anything. It goes through a multi colored light cycle, it looks like the unit is functioning, It just isn't reading sensors.

I'm going to contact Coralvue Monday but thought I'd ask here, if anyone has had similar problems of if anyone had any words of wisdom.

TIA

Ed

I had problems with my water level sensor also and with other things, I used to use the quad power strip a lot, and when I invested in an XP8 and made a collective and not relying on the quad so much, things got a lot better over all.