Ich and setting up a qt

[bensoo00]

All my fellas ️ have ich now and I gotta nab them out and start treating them.

2 ocelaris
Scopas
Desjardini
Blue hippo
Diamond goby
Clown goby
Molly miller blenny
Long nose hawkfish

I have 2 20 gallon long tanks and a 15 gallon tank that I’ll probably use because I don’t want any tang aggression to occur. How would I go about setting this up? This was my potential plan but I know there’s something wrong with it I just don’t know what. All my tangs are also about the size of a dollar coin and the blue hippo is the size of a quarter.

1. Set up all 3 tanks with a heater, air stone, hob filter, ammonia badge, and lid.

2. Add in bio media from existing DT? I have bags of seachem matrix in there, no sponges.

3. Transfer one tang per tank, one goby per tank, and the rest go in the one with the smallest fish.

Tank 1 (20 gal): 2 ocelaris, diamond goby, blue hippo

Tank 2 (20 gal): desjardini, clown goby, hawkfish

Tank 3 (15 gal): scopas and molly miller blenny

I could also put the scopas and blue hippo together and the blenny in tank 2, they all didn’t really have any aggression, mostly just worried the two zebrasomas in one tank will turn into 1 or no zebrasomas lol.

4. Dose copper power once since it says it doesn’t precipitate. Do water change weekly 50% and re dose copper power?

Do I just keep dosing copper power until the 76 days of fishless DT are over? Should I still feed my DT some food so the corals and shrimps can continue with their parameters? Should I also shorten the time I leave the Refugium light on?

Thank you and all help is appreciated.

 

[MnFish1]

All my fellas ️ have ich now and I gotta nab them out and start treating them.

2 ocelaris
Scopas
Desjardini
Blue hippo
Diamond goby
Clown goby
Molly miller blenny
Long nose hawkfish

I have 2 20 gallon long tanks and a 15 gallon tank that I’ll probably use because I don’t want any tang aggression to occur. How would I go about setting this up? This was my potential plan but I know there’s something wrong with it I just don’t know what. All my tangs are also about the size of a dollar coin and the blue hippo is the size of a quarter.

1. Set up all 3 tanks with a heater, air stone, hob filter, ammonia badge, and lid.

2. Add in bio media from existing DT? I have bags of seachem matrix in there, no sponges.

3. Transfer one tang per tank, one goby per tank, and the rest go in the one with the smallest fish.

Tank 1 (20 gal): 2 ocelaris, diamond goby, blue hippo

Tank 2 (20 gal): desjardini, clown goby, hawkfish

Tank 3 (15 gal): scopas and molly miller blenny

I could also put the scopas and blue hippo together and the blenny in tank 2, they all didn’t really have any aggression, mostly just worried the two zebrasomas in one tank will turn into 1 or no zebrasomas lol.

4. Dose copper power once since it says it doesn’t precipitate. Do water change weekly 50% and re dose copper power?

Do I just keep dosing copper power until the 76 days of fishless DT are over? Should I still feed my DT some food so the corals and shrimps can continue with their parameters? Should I also shorten the time I leave the Refugium light on?

Thank you and all help is appreciated.

First. I would follow the QT treatment thats posted as a sticky in the Fish Disease forum. Second, Tangs this young should not have that much aggression - i.e. not sure you need so many tanks. However if thats how you want to do it:


1. Yes
2. Yes
3. To me this makes no difference.
4. Follow the protocol in the fish disease forum sticky

Hope this helps best wishes with your fish!!

 

[bensoo00]

First. I would follow the QT treatment thats posted as a sticky in the Fish Disease forum. Second, Tangs this young should not have that much aggression - i.e. not sure you need so many tanks. However if thats how you want to do it:


1. Yes
2. Yes
3. To me this makes no difference.
4. Follow the protocol in the fish disease forum sticky

Hope this helps best wishes with your fish!!

They don’t have aggression but I didn’t wanna risk it in a tiny tank because I know it can happen like that. I’ll be sure to check that and thanks!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

All my fellas ️ have ich now and I gotta nab them out and start treating them.

2 ocelaris
Scopas
Desjardini
Blue hippo
Diamond goby
Clown goby
Molly miller blenny
Long nose hawkfish

I have 2 20 gallon long tanks and a 15 gallon tank that I’ll probably use because I don’t want any tang aggression to occur. How would I go about setting this up? This was my potential plan but I know there’s something wrong with it I just don’t know what. All my tangs are also about the size of a dollar coin and the blue hippo is the size of a quarter.

1. Set up all 3 tanks with a heater, air stone, hob filter, ammonia badge, and lid.

2. Add in bio media from existing DT? I have bags of seachem matrix in there, no sponges.

3. Transfer one tang per tank, one goby per tank, and the rest go in the one with the smallest fish.

Tank 1 (20 gal): 2 ocelaris, diamond goby, blue hippo

Tank 2 (20 gal): desjardini, clown goby, hawkfish

Tank 3 (15 gal): scopas and molly miller blenny

I could also put the scopas and blue hippo together and the blenny in tank 2, they all didn’t really have any aggression, mostly just worried the two zebrasomas in one tank will turn into 1 or no zebrasomas lol.

4. Dose copper power once since it says it doesn’t precipitate. Do water change weekly 50% and re dose copper power?

Do I just keep dosing copper power until the 76 days of fishless DT are over? Should I still feed my DT some food so the corals and shrimps can continue with their parameters? Should I also shorten the time I leave the Refugium light on?

Thank you and all help is appreciated.

Yes - move some non-calcium based bio media over to each tank, hopefully transferring an operating biological filter at that time.

Moving the fish into various tanks - you are the best one to figure that out, you know the fish, their relative sizes, etc. Just be aware that you may need to do some fine tuning after the initial moves.

Copper Power is best dosed with a good copper test kit, or even the Hanna HR meter. You need to hit a 2.25 ppm dose, and calculating that based just on water volume is tough.

You keep the coper power up to full level for 30 days after the last spots have gone, then you can remove it via water changes. You need to keep your display fishless for 60 days.

As far as ghost feeding your display - that may not be needed, but if your nitrates drop, you might need to do that.

Jay

 

[ISpeakForTheSeas]

Just to add, you may want some stuff the fish can hide in in the QT tanks to help them feel more comfortable and less stressed as well - most people seem to use PVC pipes (as long as the thing isn't toxic or calcium-carbonate based, you should be fine to use it).

 

[Spare time]

You can add a bottle of something like biospira and a biosponge to handle ammonia.

 

[bensoo00]

Yes - move some non-calcium based bio media over to each tank, hopefully transferring an operating biological filter at that time.

Moving the fish into various tanks - you are the best one to figure that out, you know the fish, their relative sizes, etc. Just be aware that you may need to do some fine tuning after the initial moves.

Copper Power is best dosed with a good copper test kit, or even the Hanna HR meter. You need to hit a 2.25 ppm dose, and calculating that based just on water volume is tough.

You keep the coper power up to full level for 30 days after the last spots have gone, then you can remove it via water changes. You need to keep your display fishless for 60 days.

As far as ghost feeding your display - that may not be needed, but if your nitrates drop, you might need to do that.

Jay

Do you happen to know any copper test kits that would be good? I was thinking salifert or seachem but I am unsure of the accuracy of those in relation to what accuracy I need to ensure my fish don't die.

Also, for the copper treatment, lets say I start it tomorrow and my display is fishless. I put all the fish into the QT tanks and then I get copper to 2.25ppm dose and I don't do water change for 30 days? And then after that what water changes should I do? Am I aiming for 0 ppm copper through these water changes and then I just leave the fish in QT for the remaining 40 days? Sorry for all the questions, the fish arent that bad in condition but I don't want to mess anything up and kill any of them.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Do you happen to know any copper test kits that would be good? I was thinking salifert or seachem but I am unsure of the accuracy of those in relation to what accuracy I need to ensure my fish don't die.

Also, for the copper treatment, lets say I start it tomorrow and my display is fishless. I put all the fish into the QT tanks and then I get copper to 2.25ppm dose and I don't do water change for 30 days? And then after that what water changes should I do? Am I aiming for 0 ppm copper through these water changes and then I just leave the fish in QT for the remaining 40 days? Sorry for all the questions, the fish arent that bad in condition but I don't want to mess anything up and kill any of them.

I’m not sure, but I think the Seachem test is for lower range ionic copper. I’m not sure about the Salifert kit. The API is actually very accurate, but the color change is difficult to read by eye. I use a spectrophotometer and that test is great.

If you need to do water changes during the copper treatment, you just dose the replacement water with the proper amount of copper for that volume of water.

You only need to lower the copper with some water changes, just get to around 10% of a full dose. Then, just maintain the fish in that tank for another 30 days.

Jay

 

[bensoo00]

Well I guess they’ll be all healthy for Christmas lol. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[bensoo00]

I’m not sure, but I think the Seachem test is for lower range ionic copper. I’m not sure about the Salifert kit. The API is actually very accurate, but the color change is difficult to read by eye. I use a spectrophotometer and that test is great.

If you need to do water changes during the copper treatment, you just dose the replacement water with the proper amount of copper for that volume of water.

You only need to lower the copper with some water changes, just get to around 10% of a full dose. Then, just maintain the fish in that tank for another 30 days.

Jay

I see. Should I ramp up the ppm of copper in the water to 2.25 or should I just try and get it to that on day one?

 

[bensoo00]

Is this normal? He’s a lot more stressed than everyone else for some reason and he looks really abnormal from what he usually does.

 

[bensoo00]

Now he just lays on the ground and breathes heavily

 

[Ross]

Ramp it up over several days, unless their death appears imminent from the Ich (which it doesn’t based on your pic).

 

[bensoo00]

He passed. Rest in peace buddy. How did he go so quick? The salinity is 1.025 same as DT, ammonia 0 nitrate 0 nitrite 0 and all other parameters are the same as my DT…

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Is this normal? He’s a lot more stressed than everyone else for some reason and he looks really abnormal from what he usually does.

All of the fish are breathing heavy, the water looks a bit cloudy as well. I do see you have good aeration.

How were you testing for ammonia? I saw the ammonia badge, but do you have another test method? Those badges can take a couple of days before they start reading properly. If it is indeed zero, and not a fluke, then the rapid breathing is more likely caused by a gill disease. A common one for that is velvet/Amyloodinium.

You need to raise the copper to a full dose quickly, but accurately. Raising it "slowly" is old advice, based on using ionic copper.

Jay