Ich on RG?

charliereef

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Noticed some spots on my Gramma for the last couple days which fall off at night and reappear periodically. He seems to try to scratch them off from time to time. Sounds to me its ich, just want to confirm and ask for advice going forward. How should I split my fish up to treat them? Tank stock is as follows:
- RG
- Melanurus wrasse
- Pair of target mandarins
- Diamond goby
- Flametail blenny
- Orangeback wrasse
- Blue spot jawfish
 

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vetteguy53081

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Noticed some spots on my Gramma for the last couple days which fall off at night and reappear periodically. He seems to try to scratch them off from time to time. Sounds to me its ich, just want to confirm and ask for advice going forward. How should I split my fish up to treat them? Tank stock is as follows:
- RG
- Melanurus wrasse
- Pair of target mandarins
- Diamond goby
- Flametail blenny
- Orangeback wrasse
- Blue spot jawfish
Video does not play. Please use you tube version under white light intensity, no blue. These fish more prone to flukes but video will offer clues
 

Jay Hemdal

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Noticed some spots on my Gramma for the last couple days which fall off at night and reappear periodically. He seems to try to scratch them off from time to time. Sounds to me its ich, just want to confirm and ask for advice going forward. How should I split my fish up to treat them? Tank stock is as follows:
- RG
- Melanurus wrasse
- Pair of target mandarins
- Diamond goby
- Flametail blenny
- Orangeback wrasse
- Blue spot jawfish

Yes - that is marine ich. You will need to treat all of the exposed fish. the trouble is, the available treatments all require that the fish be isolated from corals and invertebrates. The "reef safe" ich medications are also "ich safe", so don't rely on them.

Your two best treatments would be coppersafe at 2.25 ppm for 30 days, or hyposalinity at 1.009 for 30 days. Because disrupting the jawfish's burrow is going to be stressful, moving all invertebrates out and running the tank in hyposalinity would be a good option.

You can try "ich management", but this is already a moderate case and likely won't work. Here is a post I made about that:

 

Jay Hemdal

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Did you see my post?

The white spots on the clear portion of the caudal fin is what leans this to an ich diagnosis. The question is though, how do you plan to treat it?
 
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charliereef

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Did you see my post?

The white spots on the clear portion of the caudal fin is what leans this to an ich diagnosis. The question is though, how do you plan to treat it?
No yeah yeah I saw it, I just wanted to make sure vetteguy also had a way of watching the video.

I had a question regarding treatment though. I have a scarlet shrimp, nassarius and some hermits as well as coral in the tank, would they not carry ich into whatever tank I put them in? I say this because I have an enormous alveopora I'd rather just move into my older tank, would dips remove anything off it?

I agree hyposalinity is the best option here, how slowly should the lowering process take? Any general pointers? And if say, I happen to put in too much RODI when topping off and salinity goes up, should the 30 day counter be reset or how does that work? Thank you in advance
 

vetteguy53081

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No yeah yeah I saw it, I just wanted to make sure vetteguy also had a way of watching the video.

I had a question regarding treatment though. I have a scarlet shrimp, nassarius and some hermits as well as coral in the tank, would they not carry ich into whatever tank I put them in? I say this because I have an enormous alveopora I'd rather just move into my older tank, would dips remove anything off it?

I agree hyposalinity is the best option here, how slowly should the lowering process take? Any general pointers? And if say, I happen to put in too much RODI when topping off and salinity goes up, should the 30 day counter be reset or how does that work? Thank you in advance
Hypo not always on my behalf agreeable with smaller fish and Inverts wont tolerate it. I suggest treatment in a separate tank using Coppersafe or copper power at 2.2PPM monitored with a Hanna Brand copper test kit for 30 days
 
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charliereef

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Hypo not always on my behalf agreeable with smaller fish and Inverts wont tolerate it. I suggest treatment in a separate tank using Coppersafe or copper power at 2.2PPM monitored with a Hanna Brand copper test kit for 30 days
Would salifert test kit also work?
 

vetteguy53081

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Jay Hemdal

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No yeah yeah I saw it, I just wanted to make sure vetteguy also had a way of watching the video.

I had a question regarding treatment though. I have a scarlet shrimp, nassarius and some hermits as well as coral in the tank, would they not carry ich into whatever tank I put them in? I say this because I have an enormous alveopora I'd rather just move into my older tank, would dips remove anything off it?

I agree hyposalinity is the best option here, how slowly should the lowering process take? Any general pointers? And if say, I happen to put in too much RODI when topping off and salinity goes up, should the 30 day counter be reset or how does that work? Thank you in advance

Yes - anything “wet” can carry ich tomonts (the resting stage). Then, later on, those can become active and reinfect the fish. The trick is to house all invertebrates from an infected tank for 60 days with no fish present, they then die out.

I think you will end up losing the jawfish if you try to run a copper treatment on it - they get really uncomfortable without a burrow.

Here is my post on how to run hyposalinity:

 

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