"Ich Management"

GARRIGA

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Yes - I tried staged filters, still didn’t like how fast they clogged. I was going down to <2 microns, smaller than you really need to go think.
Big blue has dual density 75/25 and 50/5 that I plan on using post a large canister doing the bulk of the lifting. Going with the 20” Big Blue. Can run two each to help catch as much per micron rating. Observation/QT likely no larger than 50 gallons. The canister plus the dual density can handle 500 GPH. That should be sufficient flow to draw any unattached pathogens along with enough gradient filters to keep from clogging quickly. Think FX6 with sponges plus pumice of small enough size with voids that should capture anything larger than 75 microns and can be easily serviced to prolong the maintenance of the dual density.

Only final consideration being an additional pleated cartridge down to 5 or 10 micron. I’m guessing 1 micron might remove BB but not sure on that. Smallest dual density is 25/1. I’m assuming dual density takes longer to clog vs pleated having one set rating but not sure on that. Still learning.
 

GARRIGA

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I do prefer pleated but not because I think it filters better. But in the pleated one, the powder does the filtering and the pleated "paper" is just there to hold the powder. When you replace the powder, you end up with a new filter. with the dual density, the "dirt" goes all through the filter and is hard to clean completely. The bleach does a good job, but I am sure every time you clean it, it doesn't last as long because you will never get the solid particles out.

The bleach will just dissolve the organic stuff.
Have you considered back washing before adding the bleach? That should dislodge some of the non-organics and prolong filter life. Easy enough to run the pump through the outflow.
 

Paul B

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I always back flush that and all my diatom filters. But the ones that are not pleated, the particles are all the way through the thing and don't come out.
 

GARRIGA

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I always back flush that and all my diatom filters. But the ones that are not pleated, the particles are all the way through the thing and don't come out.
I'll have to then consider going pleated. Thx
 

DJF

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I’ve made one and water tested it! Haven’t charge me with DE yet but was reminded that even 5micron is nice :) Biggest challenge was priming the inlet when using a longer hose but likely just a process I need to hone in.

I plan to use this filter any number of different ways (submerged & as a cleaning tool) so I’m going to modify with some python connectors for easy switching of different size hoses.

My questions at this point are how much DE to use and did you settle in on a 5micron pleated filter or smaller?
 

Paul B

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It's a little over a cup and a half of powder but a little more won't hurt. If the entire pleated cartridge is coated, thats fine.
 

Orito

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Strong immunity is conferred only to fish that survive an active infection that has run its course and not been stopped short by treatment. Many fish simply die if not treated during that process.

It has been shown that immunity to Cryptocaryon is short, Noga says up to six months. Burgess says the same, and adds that all species are not protected (but does not elaborate). Do not rely on immunity to protect your fish.

What is your source for this?
"Those foods have living bacteria and will keep your fish immune."


Jay
Hi, how long can an active infection last? Is 20 days usual? My fish have been showing spots for a long time, I've been feeding heavy, fish are getting fat but with lots of spots.
catching them will be very hard and have no way to setting up a QT
 
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Jay Hemdal

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Hi, how long can an active infection last? Is 20 days usual? My fish have been showing spots for a long time, I've been feeding heavy, fish are getting fat but with lots of spots.
catching them will be very hard and have no way to setting up a QT

I've had ich come and go in intreated tanks for months and even years. It can sort of fester as a sub-acute infection, and then, if the fish get stressed, it starts to become more active.
 

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I've had ich come and go in intreated tanks for months and even years. It can sort of fester as a sub-acute infection, and then, if the fish get stressed, it starts to become more active.
But when it becomes more chronic than a acute problem?
From my previous experience if the fish stop eating it's a matter of days till it's gone, but never had it going for só long
 
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Jay Hemdal

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But when it becomes more chronic than a acute problem?
From my previous experience if the fish stop eating it's a matter of days till it's gone, but never had it going for só long
I was just describing minor ich infections. When a fish stops eating due to ich, the infection is very close to killing the fish.

Overall, I much prefer treating ich and being done with it rather than trying to manage an on-going infection.
 

foundnemo

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My apologies in advance, if that is the wrong place or thread to ask this!!

I recently (2 days ago) placed my tangs in QT. I calculated the net volume to be 40 gallons. I am treating with Copper Power. I screwed up my calculations and my copper level is 3.5. What are the side effects of higher levels? The fish look fine (besides the two with Ick). Can the level stay that high without hurting my fish? Would it shorten the QT time? This is my first time using copper treatment.

Thank you in advance for any advise
 
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Jay Hemdal

Jay Hemdal

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My apologies in advance, if that is the wrong place or thread to ask this!!

I recently (2 days ago) placed my tangs in QT. I calculated the net volume to be 40 gallons. I am treating with Copper Power. I screwed up my calculations and my copper level is 3.5. What are the side effects of higher levels? The fish look fine (besides the two with Ick). Can the level stay that high without hurting my fish? Would it shorten the QT time? This is my first time using copper treatment.

Thank you in advance for any advise
What test kit are you using? Some cannot test accurately above about 3 ppm.

You should target a 2.5 ppm reading as your maximum dose. You need to do a 30% water change to start getting it back to a proper level.
 

sogdog

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I've had ich come and go in intreated tanks for months and even years. It can sort of fester as a sub-acute infection, and then, if the fish get stressed, it starts to become more active.
In regards to situations like this, would running a uv sterilizer in between infections have any value, or do we just turn it on during an active infection? I stopped an outbreak recently, and want to return to my one hour a day UV schedule if possible to save the bulb. But if there’s any benefit to the fish to continued 24/7 use than I’d use the UV sterilizer and just replace the bulb.
 

Jekyl

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In regards to situations like this, would running a uv sterilizer in between infections have any value, or do we just turn it on during an active infection? I stopped an outbreak recently, and want to return to my one hour a day UV schedule if possible to save the bulb. But if there’s any benefit to the fish to continued 24/7 use than I’d use the UV sterilizer and just replace the bulb.
UV only takes care of ich during 1 stage of the life. However if never eradicated from the system this ends up on loop.
 
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Jay Hemdal

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In regards to situations like this, would running a uv sterilizer in between infections have any value, or do we just turn it on during an active infection? I stopped an outbreak recently, and want to return to my one hour a day UV schedule if possible to save the bulb. But if there’s any benefit to the fish to continued 24/7 use than I’d use the UV sterilizer and just replace the bulb.
You need to run the UV 24/7 and replace the bulb at the proper interval (usually 8 months to a year, depending on the model and type of bulb).
 

salty joe

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I've seen it said that after a certain length of time if nothing is added to the tank, an ich infestation will burn itself out. Any truth to that?
 

Naekuh

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I've seen it said that after a certain length of time if nothing is added to the tank, an ich infestation will burn itself out. Any truth to that?

its called FALLOW.

Running the tank without fish, so the Ich can not progress in its life cycle, ultimately stubbing itself out.
 

Naekuh

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I mean in a tank with fish and ich.

IIRC, the time length stated was two or three years.

no... then you will never get rid of the ich..

Just because you don't see visable signs of it, does not mean your fish is not infected with it.
It means there immune system does a very good job at keeping it in check, that it doesn't allow it to over run the fish.

You need to run the tank fishless to get rid of ich completely.

I honestly believe no matter how good you kept your system, drop in a PB Tang, or any Acanthurus tang and it will get Ich, if you look at it funny, in a non FALLOW tank after a ich infestation.

This is why as much as i want a Acanthurus sp. Tang, i will never put one in my tank, because with my luck with tangs even with proper QT, it will catch get Ich and probably nuke my other fish along with it.
 

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