Ich/Velvet ID

joro · Aug 1, 2017

So did another 20 gallon water change tonight and everyone was looking good, even Foxy came out to eat a few pellets earlier in the day. The PT is still bossing everyone but seems as if the nipping we observed has subsided (we hope ;Nailbiting). After re-dosing the new 20G we changed out, we let it all mix for about an hour and got the attached reading. My wife is saying it's closer to 1.0 ppm, I'm think it's right on 2.0 ppm, and now I realize why I have Hanna Checker for everything else

. Are there any other test kits that may be easier to read/use and any opinions on what this reading is? I don't want to overdose but I also want to make sure we're keeping it therapeutic for the 30 days of course.

On a side note, our Diamond Goby has been acting really strange and hangs out at the top of the water. We here him trying to jump out (fortunately he hasn't made it through the egg crate/net) but is this normal for them? We put this same guy through Cu about 2 years ago or so and he was a model citizen, so it's just weird but he's also double the size now and stuck in his ways

melypr1985 · Aug 1, 2017

I'd say your at least at 1.5 there. I've seen diamond gobies (and other gobies) do this when stressed for some reason. I wonder if he's getting picked on by anybody.... or if there is any possibility of stray voltage in the QT?

joro · Aug 1, 2017

melypr1985 said:
I'd say your at least at 1.5 there. I've seen diamond gobies (and other gobies) do this when stressed for some reason. I wonder if he's getting picked on by anybody.... or if there is any possibility of stray voltage in the QT?

If he’s getting picked on candidate numero uno would be the PT but I haven’t seen any direct aggression. Typically she’s going between Foxy, the clowns, and the hippo tang - interestingly enough it leaves the CBB and Naso alone, although the latter makes sense because the naso is about 5 times the PT’s size.

On the stray voltage, I guess it’s possible. I put my hands in the tank daily and haven’t felt anything but is there an “official” way to test to validate?

joro · Aug 11, 2017

Quick update - everyone has been doing great and are eating very, very well! The Male Blue Star Leopard Wrasse is still incognito but I have been seeing the female out more and more often, so maybe it's just a matter of time. One thing I did have a quick question on is that the water looks very yellow. The ammonia badge still looks good and no-one is breathing heavily or anything but I can't recall if the yellow tint was due to the copper or something else going on? I plan on doing a 40G water change tomorrow (so about 44%) but let me know your thoughts.

Here's an example pic and keep in mind that the PVC pipes are obviously white, so that seems to be the best comparison for the yellowish tint.

melypr1985 · Aug 11, 2017

joro said:
Quick update - everyone has been doing great and are eating very, very well! The Male Blue Star Leopard Wrasse is still incognito but I have been seeing the female out more and more often, so maybe it's just a matter of time. One thing I did have a quick question on is that the water looks very yellow. The ammonia badge still looks good and no-one is breathing heavily or anything but I can't recall if the yellow tint was due to the copper or something else going on? I plan on doing a 40G water change tomorrow (so about 44%) but let me know your thoughts.

Here's an example pic and keep in mind that the PVC pipes are obviously white, so that seems to be the best comparison for the yellowish tint.

The copper doesn't effect the color of the water. Likely it's just dirty water and the water change will help quite a bit. Could be an algae bloom or bacterial bloom as well. All of which the water change will help. Either way increase O2 in the tank and add bacteria to the tank.

joro · Aug 21, 2017

So everyone has been doing great since the last update. Did a 30G water change yesterday and noticed that the temp was a little low (75.5 degrees Fahrenheit), so I tossed in another small heater to help augment the big 200W one. Today, the temp was spot on at 79 and the fish seemed to be happier - not sure why the 200w isn't enough though since it's rated for up to 110G or so.

In any case, have a question. Sparkle's (the purple tang) aggression has gone down a little but it's very clear she's "the boss" of the tank and does chase the others around at times. I'm still about 6 weeks or so out from putting them back in the DT but I was considering leaving her behind in the HT, building a divider in there, and just QTing her again with my next batch which will include the other tangs. I know this puts her at some risk of contracting whatever the new ones come in with - if anything - but I don't want to create an equally bad situation in the DT later down the road if she's still aggressive. Thoughts or recommendations?

Edit: one other question as well. I am leaning towards getting a Crosshatch Trigger to replace my beloved Bruce who died a few weeks ago. Given how quickly Bruce turned in HT from healthy to dead, I'm worried about treating one in HT again with Cu. Has anyone had any experience with triggers in Cu?

melypr1985 · Aug 21, 2017

joro said:
Has anyone had any experience with triggers in Cu?

Yes, I've kept many kinds of triggers in copper (both cupramine and coppersafe). I've never had much of a problem with them in it.

joro · Aug 29, 2017

Quick update: Well everyone has officially “graduated” from the Cu treatment and today was Day 32 at full therapeutic values. I did a larger water change of about 50g (so roughly 60% of the volume) and installed a reactor (with a mixture of carbon/cuprisorb) and a polyfilter to remove the remaining Cu. We’re still about 6 weeks out from the fallow period ending, so I plan to give everyone a break for a few weeks before I go into PraziPro. Everyone has done exceptionally well throughout treatment; however, I have noticed recently that Dexter - our Diamond Watchman Goby - has not been eating and lost a considerable amount of weight. I’m not certain at this point whether it’s due to the Cu (which he was treated in before with no issues) or it’s because of bullying (most likely by Sparkle) but I’m monitoring closely. I’m hoping with the Cu being removed his appetite will come back again.

On a separate note, I have two very special fish coming next week so looking forward to receiving them (in a separate QT of course)

joro · Aug 30, 2017

24 hours in and wow, the water is crystal clear!

The fish ate more than they have tonight since they’ve been in the HT - even Blondie was pounding frozen food - and everyone seems to be really happy to be back in “normal” water. Dexter was unaccounted for tonight, so I’m hoping he’s just hiding somewhere and will get back to his normal self now with removal of Cu.

Out of curiosity, the poly filter is bright blue (which I know means it’s pulling out Cu) but is there some indication that it has exhausted? Also, can you “re-charge” polyfilters or are they one and done?

melypr1985 · Aug 30, 2017

joro said:
Out of curiosity, the poly filter is bright blue (which I know means it’s pulling out Cu) but is there some indication that it has exhausted? Also, can you “re-charge” polyfilters or are they one and done?

I am not entirely sure how to tell when a poly filter is used up, but I know there isn't a way to "recharge" them. I would suggest testing for copper and when it's all removed, remove and toss the poly filter and other media.

joro · Aug 31, 2017

We're getting ready to leave for Labor Day weekend and the fact that I couldn't find Dexter the past two days had me worried. I did find him; however, unfortunately, he had passed.

This brings our loss total from the whole incident up to 5 but given we still have 11 fish in HT that are super healthy/eating/active, I think we are winning the war. The male blue star leopard also made a rare appearance last night, so that's a good sign that he's back out even if for just a short period of time. I'll be back with updates next week, hope you all have a nice Labor Day weekend and Go Noles!