Ick

[Sarah24!]

Hello,

So as the title says this is yet another post about ick. In short I came home today and was shocked to see that half of my tangs had small outbreaks of ick. Now all of my fish have been in my tank for 18 months roughly give or take a few weeks because I staggered them. The last fish I added was my golden goby about 8 months ago roughly. I run two uv steralizers 24/7 and filter socks, micro filter pads as well. I also feed frozen shrimp mysis every day and it’s soaked in garlic guard.

My tank is set up where one ripping it down to catch fish isn’t going to happen. Sadly in boise the lfs don’t have a fish trap and worse carry anything to help fight ick except copper which I can’t use in my display tank.

I’m dying to know how ick was introduced into my tank when I purposely wouldn’t add any fish just because of that reason alone. Secondly yes I know it’s treated with copper, but that’s it I can even catch them and my tank is 240 gallons. There are hiding spots all over the place. My purple tang, Lt tang and tommini tang are the worse. My naso tang blue hippo show no signs yet. The bellus angel golden head goby and clown show no signs as of yet.

Sadly the truth of this is I will have to watch the die slowly. Even if there is a fish trap per say at any of my lfs (nobody has one I asked) but if they did catching them and moving them to a qt with copper (which I have never done but lfs hehe has qt sick tanks already set up. It’s also why I paid extra to qt all of them at my lfs before they went into my display 18 months ago.

Now here is the worst part, yes I know the rest of my fish will get it. Hopefully not, but again this is the first time my tank has ever had anything fish related since day one. Some say I’d rip my tank apart and get them help etc, but to what extent? My point (if any other than frustration) is it’s a 50/50 chance at best if fish are fat and healthy which all of mine are and every one ate like crazy tonight. The Lt tang is now starting to rub against the rocks and sand (not a good sign). Do I risk losing and stressing all my corals as well or leave them alone?

I’m curious as to (it’s probably because I haven’t researched it enough), why this market comes up with most everything, except proven ways to get rid of ick or even velvet take your pick in your display tank. I know about dr gs anti parasite etc and yes there are some say yes and no etc. of everything I’m hoping the fishes immune systems will fight it off on its own . But I’m curious as to what other have done when they had a sudden out break or ick in a tank that has never had it, and or introduced any new fish or someone else’s water into their tank. Not only that, but excellent water parameters and using two uv steralizers 24/7. According to the steralizers the led indicators show the lamps are still good. Maybe a sudden case of ick outbreak means those indicators are more like fancy lights.
@Seawitch you just did an article any sound advice ?

 

[Punchanello]

Sorry to hear you are going through this.

It's possible that the ich parasite has been there for a long time and that a change of some kind has caused an outbreak. Generally, good quality UV sterilisers will only slow or prevent the ich from reproducing as quickly.

You have two choices from here IMO. Pull the fish, treat with copper, TTM or CP and leave you DT fallow for 78 days, or, accept there is ich in the tank and practice ich management. Make sure you're your UV sterilizer is up to the task of ich control, feed well and reduce any sources of stress that could make your fish susceptible to being overcome.

 

[Reefer Reboot]

Are any of the "Reef Safe" ich treatments on Amazon an option? Personally, I don't know myself, but at least they could get it to you.

 

[willow659]

What happened? Just seeing this now. What did you do? How are they?

 

[tehmadreefer]

Ich will not kill fish, so no, you wont watch a slow death... A fish that is unhealthy will die from whatever the primary problem is, ich just aggravates the condition and weakens the fish, thus it being prominent on them.

Additionally, this is a touchy subject, but yes all fish have ich, it is just "dormant" until a stressor event happens.

Keep doing what you have been and there is really no reason to worry or freak out.

 

[HotRocks]

Ich will not kill fish, so no, you wont watch a slow death... A fish that is unhealthy will die from whatever the primary problem is, ich just aggravates the condition and weakens the fish, thus it being prominent on them.

Additionally, this is a touchy subject, but yes all fish have ich, it is just "dormant" until a stressor event happens.

Keep doing what you have been and there is really no reason to worry or freak out.

I disagree. Ich isn't in any of my Displays. ;)

Ich will kill fish. It's a parasite that invades the gills. In turn causing damage to the gills and lowering the available oxygen. So basically fish that have a heavy affliction with ich will suffocate to death.

The main thing is some fish are more resistant. Fish with thicker slime coats (Wrasse, clownfish, gobies, etc) will be less likely to get a parasite affliction high enough in numbers to cause death. Fish like acanthurus tangs that have an ultra thin slime coat can most definitely succumb to ich without any other underlying issues at hand.

 

[LAReefer4Life]

As you stated the last fish you added to the aquarium was approx. 8 months ago... Did you add anything wet to tank recently such as coral, CUC, etc???

 

[ZoWhat]

Ich will not kill fish, so no, you wont watch a slow death... A fish that is unhealthy will die from whatever the primary problem is, ich just aggravates the condition and weakens the fish, thus it being prominent on them.

Additionally, this is a touchy subject, but yes all fish have ich, it is just "dormant" until a stressor event happens.

Keep doing what you have been and there is really no reason to worry or freak out.

Where did you hear this?

Ich kills fish once the parasite takes hold of the fish's gills. They basically suffocate from lack of oxygen....much like ppl die of pneumonia

.

 

[Sarah24!]

I disagree. Ich isn't in any of my Displays. ;)

Ich will kill fish. It's a parasite that invades the gills. In turn causing damage to the gills and lowering the available oxygen. So basically fish that have a heavy affliction with ich will suffocate to death.

The main thing is some fish are more resistant. Fish with thicker slime coats (Wrasse, clownfish, gobies, etc) will be less likely to get a parasite affliction high enough in numbers to cause death. Fish like acanthurus tangs that have an ultra thin slime coat can most definitely succumb to ich without any other underlying issues at hand.

Hello,

In your response I am curious how you know for certain your display is ick free since it can lay dormant and “generation life cycle can last up to four years”
Cryptocaryon irritans Brown 1951, the cause of ‘white spot disease’ in marine fish: an update
Angelo Colorni and Peter Burgess. 1993. From the scientific papers I have been reading, there was no definitive evidence that marine ick attacks the gills such as amyloodinium which will start in the gills. Marine ick will attach anywhere and eventually get to the gills unless the fish has built up some immunity or has treatments etc. as of today there is no cure for aka marine ick. “ To date there is no effective way to control cryptocaryonosis and destructive economic losses tied to the disease are not uncommon. Previous studies have shown that sublethal infections with C. irritans can elicit protective resistance2,3,4,5, and an array of host immune responses that include chemokine synthesis, activation of Toll-like receptor (TLR) signaling, mobilization of phagocytes, activation of nonspecific cytotoxic cells, and signaling through B- and T-cell receptors6,7,8,9,10,11. These findings suggest that vaccination may be an effective way to control C. irritans in an aquaculture setting” Burgess, P. Fish host range of seven isolates of Cryptocaryon irritans(Ciliophora). Journal of Fish Biology 46, 727–729,

I agree that ick will obviously kill fish and it affects different species of fish in different ways. As it is true some fish have thicker slim coats and show more immunity to it. But during the life cycle, it can drop and attach to rocks corals until it’s ready to reproduce. If it has attached to rocks, and or corals, they can’t be treated with copper. It can also be transferred by anything wet and lay dormant. Yes there can be a 76 day fallow period in the main display which should starve the parasites out. But there has been no proof of this in any papers I have read that are published. In addition the running the display tank for 76 days may not be exact because of there is a lack of oxygen they will go dormant.

Yes if the marine ick spreads to the gills the fish will die of asphyxiation. But there are several other diseases that look similar to marine ick. With out doing a byopsi, how does one know. Yes we all hate ick and it’s not fun to deal with but to say ones tank is completely ick free or disease free seems (great if completely true). Yes we can take preventive measure using level 2 uv and ozone to kill them but it only works on the swimming stage and only 2 of the 4 stages are dangerous to fish. If you have managed to completely eradicate marine ick from your tank, how are you doing it? Is it a realistic possibility to every reefer? I can see in a lab setting, but any time you buy coral or snails crabs etc, there is no way of knowing if marine ick has been dormant on those. (Not disagreeing just really curious how that was done and you know for certain).

 

[HotRocks]

Hello,

In your response I am curious how you know for certain your display is ick free since it can lay dormant and “generation life cycle can last up to four years”
Cryptocaryon irritans Brown 1951, the cause of ‘white spot disease’ in marine fish: an update
Angelo Colorni and Peter Burgess. 1993. From the scientific papers I have been reading, there was no definitive evidence that marine ick attacks the gills such as amyloodinium which will start in the gills. Marine ick will attach anywhere and eventually get to the gills unless the fish has built up some immunity or has treatments etc. as of today there is no cure for aka marine ick. “ To date there is no effective way to control cryptocaryonosis and destructive economic losses tied to the disease are not uncommon. Previous studies have shown that sublethal infections with C. irritans can elicit protective resistance2,3,4,5, and an array of host immune responses that include chemokine synthesis, activation of Toll-like receptor (TLR) signaling, mobilization of phagocytes, activation of nonspecific cytotoxic cells, and signaling through B- and T-cell receptors6,7,8,9,10,11. These findings suggest that vaccination may be an effective way to control C. irritans in an aquaculture setting” Burgess, P. Fish host range of seven isolates of Cryptocaryon irritans(Ciliophora). Journal of Fish Biology 46, 727–729,

I agree that ick will obviously kill fish and it affects different species of fish in different ways. As it is true some fish have thicker slim coats and show more immunity to it. But during the life cycle, it can drop and attach to rocks corals until it’s ready to reproduce. If it has attached to rocks, and or corals, they can’t be treated with copper. It can also be transferred by anything wet and lay dormant. Yes there can be a 76 day fallow period in the main display which should starve the parasites out. But there has been no proof of this in any papers I have read that are published. In addition the running the display tank for 76 days may not be exact because of there is a lack of oxygen they will go dormant.

Yes if the marine ick spreads to the gills the fish will die of asphyxiation. But there are several other diseases that look similar to marine ick. With out doing a byopsi, how does one know. Yes we all hate ick and it’s not fun to deal with but to say ones tank is completely ick free or disease free seems (great if completely true). Yes we can take preventive measure using level 2 uv and ozone to kill them but it only works on the swimming stage and only 2 of the 4 stages are dangerous to fish. If you have managed to completely eradicate marine ick from your tank, how are you doing it? Is it a realistic possibility to every reefer? I can see in a lab setting, but any time you buy coral or snails crabs etc, there is no way of knowing if marine ick has been dormant on those. (Not disagreeing just really curious how that was done and you know for certain).

@Sarah24! I don't know of any scientific studies in which they were able to get ich to lay dormant for up to four years. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying its impossible if there is a hypoxic environment. I do think if you follow a strict QT protocol for fish and proper fallow period with all new additions (anything wet) you will have an excellent chance of never introducing ich to your display(s). For me, I prophylactically treat ALL fish with a pretty stringent protocol. I also keep a nano tank (That has never had a single fish in it) for ALL other new additions. Any inverts/LR/Corals/macro etc. all spend 76 days in the Nano tank prior to being introduced into a display. My 750 was fallow for over 90 days when it was first setup a few years back. My tanks have been through various power outages, heater failures, parameter swings etc. I have never seen anything parasite related in my tank. I do not run any equipment other than a skimmer, and GFO reactor occasionally. I keep 8 tangs, 3 of which are acanthurus. Also several other leopard wrasse, regal angel, potters angel, etc.

I have a new 425XL that I just recently installed. It is acropora dominant. It has proven to be a challenge with SPS and maintaining proper nutrient levels having no fish present. It can be done, it just requires dosing nitrate and phosphate. So again there are several challenges.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hotrocks-sps-dominant-425xl-yes-another-tank.587246/

Is it obtainable for every Reefer? Well I would say so, but it isn't easy. It requires a fish QT or two (Depending on how you want to treat your fish), as well as a coral QT. For some it may not be economical from a logistics or financial standpoint. It also requires being very strict about how you do things, as cross contamination can happen pretty easily. :o

I also want to be clear: There are several ways to maintain a reef. My way is not the only way. Its just the route I choose to take. There are people out there like @PaulB who maintain a beautiful reef without the use of fallow periods and QT :cool:. I will say that I think the type of fish one desires to keep may make it easier to decide which route is the best to take. Both methods require certain things that are important to be successful and they also share similarities in what we can all do for overall nutrition and keeping specimens healthy :) !

Here are some great write ups regarding this discussion:

https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/11/mini

https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/12/mini

 

[Sarah24!]

@Sarah24! I don't know of any scientific studies in which they were able to get ich to lay dormant for up to four years. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying its impossible if there is a hypoxic environment. I do think if you follow a strict QT protocol for fish and proper fallow period with all new additions (anything wet) you will have an excellent chance of never introducing ich to your display(s). For me, I prophylactically treat ALL fish with a pretty stringent protocol. I also keep a nano tank (That has never had a single fish in it) for ALL other new additions. Any inverts/LR/Corals/macro etc. all spend 76 days in the Nano tank prior to being introduced into a display. My 750 was fallow for over 90 days when it was first setup a few years back. My tanks have been through various power outages, heater failures, parameter swings etc. I have never seen anything parasite related in my tank. I do not run any equipment other than a skimmer, and GFO reactor occasionally. I keep 8 tangs, 3 of which are acanthurus. Also several other leopard wrasse, regal angel, potters angel, etc.

I have a new 425XL that I just recently installed. It is acropora dominant. It has proven to be a challenge with SPS and maintaining proper nutrient levels having no fish present. It can be done, it just requires dosing nitrate and phosphate. So again there are several challenges.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hotrocks-sps-dominant-425xl-yes-another-tank.587246/

Is it obtainable for every Reefer? Well I would say so, but it isn't easy. It requires a fish QT or two (Depending on how you want to treat your fish), as well as a coral QT. For some it may not be economical from a logistics or financial standpoint. It also requires being very strict about how you do things, as cross contamination can happen pretty easily. :eek:

I also want to be clear: There are several ways to maintain a reef. My way is not the only way. Its just the route I choose to take. There are people out there like @PaulB who maintain a beautiful reef without the use of fallow periods and QT :cool:. I will say that I think the type of fish one desires to keep may make it easier to decide which route is the best to take. Both methods require certain things that are important to be successful and they also share similarities in what we can all do for overall nutrition and keeping specimens healthy :) !

Here are some great write ups regarding this discussion:

https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/11/mini

https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/12/mini

Hello,

First off really sorry I was super tired when I wrote and was on food break at work (my shifts are 24 hours). I honestly didn’t mean to sound well mean. I since I had some stress ick I have been trying to find as much material as possible on said subject matter. When you said you successfully eradicated ick and velvet from your tank, I was wow what is he doing that others are not? So wasn’t sure if you had read some research or participated in a project etc. it was more I wanted to read the information you had obtained. The reason for the quotes is well one I can’t find many current ones. Secondly, I was trying to just show where I had received such information.

I have noticed there is lots of mis information about marine ick and velvet and other diseases. What’s worse is some scientific research teams don’t even fully understand this process. It is very true that every tank is very different and may accept different treatments just as humans do. My stress ick only showed signs on my purple tang and Lt tang and in four days gone. No new about breaks, signs nothing and it’s been almost three weeks so crossing my fingers. But even then @jsker had some stunning advice along with @Lasse and @Brew12 to name a few. I am curious on your thoughts of running a level 2 uv which uses the 184nm bulbs as the level uvc uses 285 and is only a clarifying tool and won’t kill parasites and viruses etc. but to add, to this the one I have ordered has ozone as well, which definitely gets rid of those nasties and (if I’m not careful me as well). Which I’m doing lots of research on and would only use with signs of a break out.

The term anything wet, to me makes it where we are always at risk and most have firewalls in place. You have a great idea of how you qt and run fallow periods etc. it would be interesting to create a dye that would highlight marine ick or velvet on anything per say. It would be nice to have a set up like yours, except I barely have time to keep my 240 perfect and I still need to figure out what I’m doing with my new 425 gallon. (That’s a new story). But at least we or some can see an idea of how your doing this when scientists say otherwise. Thanks for sharing how your able to prevent such outbreaks.

 

[4FordFamily]

I’m with @HotRocks in that my 500 and 180 gallon tanks are full of fish through the same treatment protocol. No parasites to be found with fish easily affected by them.

Not easy though, as he’s said.

 

[Lovemyreef2015]

I have to say while I'm sure ich can kill some fish, I've experienced the complete opposite with multiple fish and tanks. I'm curious that with a purple tang and a blue tang that showed signs of ich and were never treated but instead fed a varied diet of quality foods how they never succumbed to ich. They thrived and still are after 10 years. I'm not advocating not treating but I'm just saying I don't believe it's a death sentence and you have to go fallow. Those same fish were moved 3 times along with the tank and never showed one white speck again. Also, fish that were added in between never showed signs of ich. Just sharing my experience as I used to get paranoid if I saw a white spot.

 

[4FordFamily]

I have to say while I'm sure ich can kill some fish, I've experienced the complete opposite with multiple fish and tanks. I'm curious that with a purple tang and a blue tang that showed signs of ich and were never treated but instead fed a varied diet of quality foods how they never succumbed to ich. They thrived and still are after 10 years. I'm not advocating not treating but I'm just saying I don't believe it's a death sentence and you have to go fallow. Those same fish were moved 3 times along with the tank and never showed one white speck again. Also, fish that were added in between never showed signs of ich. Just sharing my experience as I used to get paranoid if I saw a white spot.

I did this for ten years. It was easier back in the day. Unfortunately, I tried multiple acanthurus tangs such as powder blue and achilles and they were unable to do the same. But yes some fish can handle ich. Velvet is the bigger worry, and unfortunately it’s just as common now :(

 

[Lovemyreef2015]

I did this for ten years. It was easier back in the day. Unfortunately, I tried multiple acanthurus tangs such as powder blue and achilles and they were unable to do the same. But yes some fish can handle ich. Velvet is the bigger worry, and unfortunately it’s just as common now :(

I get it, fish are now coming in to the stores in worse shape but my question is if the ich is just dormant then why did all the other fish not get it, even ones added a few months before we got rid of the tank? I know the argument now is going to be we were lucky, we haven't bought fish in a long time but that's actually not the case. I'm just trying to offer my experience in that there is not a definite death sentence with ich. My husband just helped a good with friend with a large tank that houses over 10 tangs in which one was an Achilles covered in ich. After weeks of feeding a quality diet it slowly subsided and no other fish have come down with it including new additions, this was 6 months ago. Just trying to share an experience that there are many ways to enjoy this hobby and while I don't think treating fish is s bad thing at all, there are other success stories and options that don't include sudden death from white spots. Happy reefing all:D

 

[HotRocks]

I get it, fish are now coming in to the stores in worse shape but my question is if the ich is just dormant then why did all the other fish not get it, even ones added a few months before we got rid of the tank? I know the argument now is going to be we were lucky, we haven't bought fish in a long time but that's actually not the case. I'm just trying to offer my experience in that there is not a definite death sentence with ich. My husband just helped a good friend with a large tank that houses over 10 tangs in which one was an Achilles covered in ich. After weeks of feeding a quality diet it slowly subsided and no other fish have come down with it including new additions, this was 6 months ago and all fish are thriving. Just trying to share an experience that there are many ways to enjoy this hobby and while I don't think treating fish is a bad thing at all, there are other success stories and options that don't include sudden death from white spots. Happy reefing all:D

That's awesome that you guys do so much to help out local people. I get so much enjoyment out of helping local people with their tanks/fish! :)

I definitely wouldn't say ich is a for sure death sentence by any means. It certainly can and will kill fish. As you well know there are several methods for feeding and nutrition (which I say are very important whether you are in the middle of an outbreak or not, whether you QT or not). There are also other tools for someone who chooses to run a tank without QT. UV, diatom, ozone, oxydators, etc. May be helpful in keeping the free swimming parasite population under control. There are many ways to do this. I can't say one or the other is right or wrong. All I can do is share what's worked for me :).

 

[HotRocks]

Hello,

First off really sorry I was super tired when I wrote and was on food break at work (my shifts are 24 hours). I honestly didn’t mean to sound well mean. I since I had some stress ick I have been trying to find as much material as possible on said subject matter. When you said you successfully eradicated ick and velvet from your tank, I was wow what is he doing that others are not? So wasn’t sure if you had read some research or participated in a project etc. it was more I wanted to read the information you had obtained. The reason for the quotes is well one I can’t find many current ones. Secondly, I was trying to just show where I had received such information.

I have noticed there is lots of mis information about marine ick and velvet and other diseases. What’s worse is some scientific research teams don’t even fully understand this process. It is very true that every tank is very different and may accept different treatments just as humans do. My stress ick only showed signs on my purple tang and Lt tang and in four days gone. No new about breaks, signs nothing and it’s been almost three weeks so crossing my fingers. But even then @jsker had some stunning advice along with @Lasse and @Brew12 to name a few. I am curious on your thoughts of running a level 2 uv which uses the 184nm bulbs as the level uvc uses 285 and is only a clarifying tool and won’t kill parasites and viruses etc. but to add, to this the one I have ordered has ozone as well, which definitely gets rid of those nasties and (if I’m not careful me as well). Which I’m doing lots of research on and would only use with signs of a break out.

The term anything wet, to me makes it where we are always at risk and most have firewalls in place. You have a great idea of how you qt and run fallow periods etc. it would be interesting to create a dye that would highlight marine ick or velvet on anything per say. It would be nice to have a set up like yours, except I barely have time to keep my 240 perfect and I still need to figure out what I’m doing with my new 425 gallon. (That’s a new story). But at least we or some can see an idea of how your doing this when scientists say otherwise. Thanks for sharing how your able to prevent such outbreaks.

I didn't take what you said as mean at all! Just wanted to provide you with some info. It's certainly a controversial topic all around. There are clearly people who are successful on both sides! :)

 

[jsker]

Hello,

First off really sorry I was super tired when I wrote and was on food break at work (my shifts are 24 hours). I honestly didn’t mean to sound well mean. I since I had some stress ick I have been trying to find as much material as possible on said subject matter. When you said you successfully eradicated ick and velvet from your tank, I was wow what is he doing that others are not? So wasn’t sure if you had read some research or participated in a project etc. it was more I wanted to read the information you had obtained. The reason for the quotes is well one I can’t find many current ones. Secondly, I was trying to just show where I had received such information.

I have noticed there is lots of mis information about marine ick and velvet and other diseases. What’s worse is some scientific research teams don’t even fully understand this process. It is very true that every tank is very different and may accept different treatments just as humans do. My stress ick only showed signs on my purple tang and Lt tang and in four days gone. No new about breaks, signs nothing and it’s been almost three weeks so crossing my fingers. But even then @jsker had some stunning advice along with @Lasse and @Brew12 to name a few. I am curious on your thoughts of running a level 2 uv which uses the 184nm bulbs as the level uvc uses 285 and is only a clarifying tool and won’t kill parasites and viruses etc. but to add, to this the one I have ordered has ozone as well, which definitely gets rid of those nasties and (if I’m not careful me as well). Which I’m doing lots of research on and would only use with signs of a break out.

The term anything wet, to me makes it where we are always at risk and most have firewalls in place. You have a great idea of how you qt and run fallow periods etc. it would be interesting to create a dye that would highlight marine ick or velvet on anything per say. It would be nice to have a set up like yours, except I barely have time to keep my 240 perfect and I still need to figure out what I’m doing with my new 425 gallon. (That’s a new story). But at least we or some can see an idea of how your doing this when scientists say otherwise. Thanks for sharing how your able to prevent such outbreaks.

Good day

I would be interested in reading what you find for my own knowledge going forward. I am glade to also read that you are feeling better since the last time I was on your thread.

 

[Sarah24!]

Good day

I would be interested in reading what you find for my own knowledge going forward. I am glade to also read that you are feeling better since the last time I was on your thread.

Hello,

Some of the papers I have read are oddly enough interesting. It’s actually hard to find decent reputation papers on the subject. What’s interesting is the findings from each group and what their thoughts are. Now that my fish are doing great my water parameters have gone bat crazy on me. My tank was taking 1.5 table spoons per day of alk and calcium which kept things at 8 and 440. Now I’m testing daily because my calcium usage has declined a lot. Same with the alk now I’m dosing maybe .5 tablespoon of alk and calcium almost every other day. I’m still adding trace elements, I may do a 25 gallon water change for the giggles of it. All sps doing great and some reason my blue green hammer won’t extended all the way. Same spot for 19 months been super happy. I moved To the sand floor think it needs less light and flow. Plus it’s where I feed so it will definitely get more food. But I lost my scoly (that hurt), and it was looking fabulous on Monday and Wednesday it was completely toast. What can you do? It happens so fast I couldn’t move it to another tank etc. then of all stupidness in me I moved my after burner chalice just to level my sand and the current flipped it on top of my Miami hurricane and wow what a stinging war. Miami (1) afterburner (0) and suspended from ever playing again. Super glued where tissue lost occurred and it’s hanging on we shall see. May cut it and frag it just in case :(.

 

[tehmadreefer]

I disagree. Ich isn't in any of my Displays. ;)

Ich will kill fish. It's a parasite that invades the gills. In turn causing damage to the gills and lowering the available oxygen. So basically fish that have a heavy affliction with ich will suffocate to death.

The main thing is some fish are more resistant. Fish with thicker slime coats (Wrasse, clownfish, gobies, etc) will be less likely to get a parasite affliction high enough in numbers to cause death. Fish like acanthurus tangs that have an ultra thin slime coat can most definitely succumb to ich without any other underlying issues at hand.

And I disagree. And your correct that your displays do not have ich, your fish do however.
If you care for me to prove it I can, just let me know.