If you own a saltwater mixing station, please share your pictures & ideas?

ThePlummer

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I’m not sure what you mean by a well pressure tank. Is it just a different kind of tank than what I just purchased?

I have everything for the RODI hooked up and running. I still have some plumbing to figure out for the salt mixing one. I will have a pump that can either circulate or be pumped into the house. So that one will not rely on gravity. I’m also going to set up a dos for awc’s.

For now, I prefer it being up on a shelf because it saves me some space. The garage has 14 foot ceilings, so there’s a lot more space to work with vertically. I’m also thinking about putting in a utility sink under the RODI unit. It will be nice to have a spot to clean paint brushed and other gross things.

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Looks good... What I was talking about was what people in rural communities who have to drill their own deep well for water on their property. They drill a well and put a pump down the well shaft. The pump pumps the water out of the ground and into a pressure tank. That's a steel tank with a rubber bladder in it. As the pump pumps water into the tank, the rubber bladder swells up like a balloon, till it builds up enough pressure to satisfy the pump switch. Then your water is now 'at pressure', so when you open your faucets, you get pressurized water.

I'm suggesting that you could do the same thing, with a well pressure tank like this one:
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I'm currently in process of setting up a RODI and FSW automatic changing station using this system. I've started a thread on it, but had to suspend the project as I'm needing to use my expendable capital preparing a house for sale. If it sells quickly, I'll have it done in short order.
 

sdreef

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Rhe manufacturer says the weight limit of each shelf is 500 pounds. A full 35 gallon tank should be well below that. So I think it will likely be okay. If not, I can always switch it out.

I’m planning on mounting the RODI unit lower than the container. I think I read somewhere that it doesn’t matter the heights, but I may be misremembering. I looked through and saw that several people have their RODIs mounted lower than their containers. Is there any issue with this?

The RO unit I recently installed recommended installing the unit above the reservoir, but it was related to potential siphon. They recommended installing with a siphon break if installed below the reservoir. I don't know if that will be an issue for your unit and set up, but something to consider.
 

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The RO unit I recently installed recommended installing the unit above the reservoir, but it was related to potential siphon. They recommended installing with a siphon break if installed below the reservoir. I don't know if that will be an issue for your unit and set up, but something to consider.
If you have a float valve in the barrel to shut off the RODI with a back-pressure valve (you should) then it doesn’t matter. The outlet of the water line is never submerged since the valve shuts it off before the water level gets that high.
 

Bleigh

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Looks good... What I was talking about was what people in rural communities who have to drill their own deep well for water on their property. They drill a well and put a pump down the well shaft. The pump pumps the water out of the ground and into a pressure tank. That's a steel tank with a rubber bladder in it. As the pump pumps water into the tank, the rubber bladder swells up like a balloon, till it builds up enough pressure to satisfy the pump switch. Then your water is now 'at pressure', so when you open your faucets, you get pressurized water.

I'm suggesting that you could do the same thing, with a well pressure tank like this one:
1595880368700.png


I'm currently in process of setting up a RODI and FSW automatic changing station using this system. I've started a thread on it, but had to suspend the project as I'm needing to use my expendable capital preparing a house for sale. If it sells quickly, I'll have it done in short order.

I didn't even know these existed. I'll have to keep those in mind as I inevitably expand my operation. :)

The RO unit I recently installed recommended installing the unit above the reservoir, but it was related to potential siphon. They recommended installing with a siphon break if installed below the reservoir. I don't know if that will be an issue for your unit and set up, but something to consider.
If you have a float valve in the barrel to shut off the RODI with a back-pressure valve (you should) then it doesn’t matter. The outlet of the water line is never submerged since the valve shuts it off before the water level gets that high.

I was going to say this too. There's a float valve, and unless it fails, the in line will never be below the water level, so it won't set up a back siphon. If the float valve fails, then the entire tank is over flowing, so a back siphon is probably going to have less water on the floor than the overflowing tank. If back siphons are the only concern with the height of the RODI unit, I think I should be in good shape.

Does anybody have any recommendations for mixing pumps? Is there any turn over ratio to ensure mixing in a 35 gallon tank?
 

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Honestly, I’ve been using an inexpensive 1375 gallon $60 pump off amazon. It’s works just fine for this application and it’ll even pump through 25 feet of 5/8” water line so I can refill my QT tanks. It has about 15” head, I think, but everything is on 3.5 foot stands so it’s all good. It also takes 1” threaded sch40 pvc directly so no messing about


make sure you use abs safe thread sealant if you buy this- you’ll melt the stem off the volute if you use regular thread sealant. Don’t ask me how I
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ThePlummer

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I didn't even know these existed. I'll have to keep those in mind as I inevitably expand my operation. :)


Does anybody have any recommendations for mixing pumps? Is there any turn over ratio to ensure mixing in a 35 gallon tank?
I'm in the middle of a build thread using this very tank. I'm designing a way to auto fill my ATO, as well as being able to flip a switch from ATO, to water change. In my situation, I can't do a total auto water change, as I don't have a way to get to a permanent drain, but I can get the FSW to auto refill, as I drain off SW from the tank.

As far as a pump... Well, the $9.00 Petco powerheads are really impressive in the amount of water that they move, and I think that would be plenty for a mixing station.
 

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FYI- I have two 55 gallon barrels set up as RODI top that gravity feeds into the lower SW. works just fine. Rodi unit is 5 feet away, up above a utility sink, with the float valve about the same height. I have the rodi plumbed with a shut off T on the cold water line for the sink (always on) with another valve on the wall just under the unit. Works great. Flush line just goes down to the ejector pump for the sink ( all in basement so my house plumbing stack is in the ceiling of the basement)

Been working great for a couple years.
 

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Special thanks to everyone on this thread. I just finished my mixing station and if it wasn't for all of your thoughts and ideas I wouldn't have gotten it done. I used it last night for the first time and its working sweet! I installed it in the bottom of a double closet / pantry. Plumbed the RODI to a bathroom which is behind this closet. Its less than 6 feet from my DT. This is going to make things so much easier.

IMG_9167 copy.jpg
 

TheAngryReefer

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Finished up my mixing station a little over a month ago. Lines the wall leading into my soon to be fish room in the basement. I can Switch between tanks. Run both at the same time. Can pump everything out into the utility sink. Best part is when I’m able to turn a valve and do an automatic water change without moving hoses and buckets. The easier something is, the more likely you are to do it.
nice and clean well done
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SamMule

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Special thanks to everyone on this thread. I just finished my mixing station and if it wasn't for all of your thoughts and ideas I wouldn't have gotten it done. I used it last night for the first time and its working sweet! I installed it in the bottom of a double closet / pantry. Plumbed the RODI to a bathroom which is behind this closet. Its less than 6 feet from my DT. This is going to make things so much easier.

IMG_9167 copy.jpg

That looks fantastic.
Does that tray that your tanks are on have wheels?
How deep are those tanks?
I've been thinking of a setup similar to that, except hidden by cabinetry and a countertop.

Would love to see some more pics of this setup if you have them!
 

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IMG_2234.JPG


Just finished mine.

Just posted a thread
 

Super Fly

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how often do you folks clean the inside of the SW container?... I noticed mine gets dirty once in a while that I have to wipe down
 

Bfragale

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Here’s a link to my mixing station budget build:


Probally the best thing I did lol. Life is much easier now not hauling water from lfs upstairs plus I know the quality of water- have 7 stage RODI- so I know my source is good and I control which salt I use. I’ve seen the tank improve greatly since I buildthis mixing station.

good luck and HAPPY REEFING!
 

jschlem

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Just finished building my mixing station and thanks for the ideas from this thread. 2x165 gallon norwesco vertical water tanks. I am going to use it for auto water changes when the versa gets back in stock. Does anyone know how accurate the gallon measurement marks on the side are, is the gallon mark at the bottom of the number or top, middle? Mine seems to be off. I have measured that 5 gallons raise the level 1.75 inches. is there a better way to do this?
mixing station.jpg
 

Richmond

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My uniseals still leak whenever my barrels are full. It's not terrible, but they do leak. Just annoying more then anything, they leak so little it evaporates before it drips off the table my barrels sit on.

I have removed them, reseated them, bought new ones thinking I just had defective ones, sanded the edges for burrs, used the appropriate hole saw, etc, etc.

I never did buy the bulkheads, they leak so little now with salt creep, I actually forgot about it until I saw this thread pop up in my notifications. lol

I think my issues is my external pump and hard plumbing. The pump makes the entire plumbing vibrate a little, and thats when they leak. I turn the pump off and they will be fine for weeks. Turn the pump on to pump to my tank, and they start dripping.

Old post, I know - but you should try some plumbing tape around the uniseal. I had this same issue, and solved it with 3 wraps of plumbing tape. Apparently the blade I used to cut the hole left it like 1MM too big and I wasn't getting a great seal.
 

JGT

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IMG_2234.JPG


Just finished mine.

Just posted a thread
Been thinking about a similar design, but isn’t it a pain to get the bottom lid off to get salt into the can between the wood overhang and the pvc pipe through the middle if the lid?
 

Chbix

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Been thinking about a similar design, but isn’t it a pain to get the bottom lid off to get salt into the can between the wood overhang and the pvc pipe through the middle if the lid?
Yes and no. Honestly at this point I removed the long pipe from the top to the bottom brute. I take the lid off, drain the water from the top to the bottom via the valve, turn on the heater and mixing pumps and use a 5 cup capacity container to add in the salt.
There are definitely some flaws in my design, The location of the PC-4 power bar should be in a different location as it limits the height access on the lid, but I was concerned about water leaking/splashing and really wanted it under the top shelf. Or I should have gone maybe 4-6" higher for the top brute. I should have gone a little higher 2-4" on the bottom shelf. There is limited access on the bottom plumbing. Also I found that I should have put the bottom drain opening at an angle down to assist with draining once the pump is off. Also since I am not using a self priming pump, I can not pull the water from my water changes via the sump currently. I have to drain it from the DT and I have to start the siphon manually until the pump gets going...Kind of a pain, but I will probably be buying a cheap self priming pump just to drain the sump water to the sink. So again, not perfect but its workable.
 

Rogueaquariums

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Finally, almost everything has come in and has been assembled except for my two 1'' Spears Gate Vales which will be on each side between the 1'' pipe and the spigot x street 90's. That's where my gate valves will be installed so at any giving point I will be able to grab some fresh RODI water or saltwater from each Brute container. Also, instead of having the Cepex ball Valve where I am going to be connecting my Marine & RV 1/2'' 25ft hose, I will be using a 1/2'' Spears Gate valve with the Cam Lever Quick to Connect my 1/2'' in size hose. Order 1 more spigot to street 45 to put inside my Brute salt container to there is one on each side. Next, I have to Glue everything together. I am going to be using a product called WELD -ON! 1ST I will use there Weld On - Plumbing Primer - then finish up with the Weld -On Heavy Duty PVC Cement Gray to match up with my fittings. Then my last step will be building my stand. I bought 6 cinder blocks and 5 two by 4's for my frame. After I get the frame completed I will just be screwing down a pcs of 1'' thick pcs of plywood and then this operation Saltwater mixing station will be completed. Here a few pixs to show you how it turned out before I start gluing everything together. My total cost ending up being around $1250.00 for my Mixing station! Please feel free to let me know your thoughts?
Many thanks,
FLSharkvictim

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Great way to make the most out of those brute cans.
 

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