IM 150 EXT soft coral lagoon and dartfish shoal

[hart24601]

Well I have had disease go through the tank. Losses including the doa from dr reef stand at:


2 Multibar angels
2 blue spot butterflyfish
3 radiated filefish
3 pearlscale butterflyfish
1 Pakistani butterflyfish
1 exquisite wrasse
1 scarlet wrasse
1 leopard wrasse
1 whitetail tang
1 diamond goby
1 Klein butterflyfish
2 dot dot dash butterflyfish

The multibar and white tail were today. Regretting this tank

 

[Miami Reef]

Were all the fish purchased from Dr. Reef?

 

[hart24601]

I had biotia CB Multibar, goldflake and few others before setting up the display

 

[Miami Reef]

I think the mistake was trusting Dr. Reef.

He used to be a sponsor at Humblefish’s forum…until he was kicked off because he kept sending sick fish and not responding. I personally would absolutely never trust him for any of my tanks.

I can find the thread of him getting kicked off Humblefish’s forum. There is some interesting juicy back and fourth action: https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/dr-reef-really-let-me-down.8062/page-6

 

[hart24601]

Well mistakes were sure made that part I can confirm lol

 

[xiaoxiy]

I’m so sorry for your losses. This has been such a heart breaking build.

 

[Lowell Lemon]

What a loss! Bummer. I am sorry this happened. Wish you a better result in the future.

 

[hart24601]

I caught what I could could and put them in hypo-salinity yesterday. However on closer inspection I think this is velvet which hypo isn’t great for but they did get peroxide baths for 30 min before going in which helps. The teardrop died though and the wrasse looks bad.

the fish I couldn’t catch are the ones that has the most chances of being immune and don’t show any spots either. Mandrian and diamond goby. They living their best life alone in the 150

 

[Miami Reef]

I caught what I could could and put them in hypo-salinity yesterday. However on closer inspection I think this is velvet which hypo isn’t great for but they did get peroxide baths for 30 min before going in which helps. The teardrop died though and the wrasse looks bad.

the fish I couldn’t catch are the ones that has the most chances of being immune and don’t show any spots either. Mandrian and diamond goby. They living their best life alone in the 150

If you want the fallow to be successful you need to remove all the fish. I’m sure you already know this, but I just want to let you know because I don’t want your efforts to be fruitless.

 

[dennis romano]

Sorry for your loses. I feel your pain. I had pm'd you about how I was having the same issues with Dr. Reefs butterflies. After a few weeks, I ordered butterflies from Eric Cohen's Tank Stop. Even though they are not qt'd, I had much better luck with these butterflies. They went directly into the display and eat everything. Best of luck.

 

[Lowell Lemon]

I cannot believe that taking all your precautions ended this way. Trusted source, quarantined and prophylactic treated fish and then a wipe out. In my own experience I lost more fish to prophylactic treatment than using other methods. I wonder if there are any other mitigating circumstances? Would have been nice to have an actual diagnosis via skin scraping and a nepcropsy. Was the tank matured via bacterial cultures or was it established using live rock in the sump? Some of the pictures looked like a bacterial or protozoa infection. Maybe @Jay Hemdal or @vetteguy53081 could take a look for you.

 

[hart24601]

If you want the fallow to be successful you need to remove all the fish. I’m sure you already know this, but I just want to let you know because I don’t want your efforts to be fruitless.

Yeah I know and it will probably end up fruitless in all reality. I am not sure if any will even survive the hypo

 

[hart24601]

I cannot believe that taking all your precautions ended this way. Trusted source, quarantined and prophylactic treated fish and then a wipe out. In my own experience I lost more fish to prophylactic treatment than using other methods. I wonder if there are any other mitigating circumstances? Would have been nice to have an actual diagnosis via skin scraping and a nepcropsy. Was the tank matured via bacterial cultures or was it established using live rock in the sump? Some of the pictures looked like a bacterial or protozoa infection. Maybe @Jay Hemdal or @vetteguy53081 could take a look for you.

Yeah the sump is a 150g Rubbermaid with live rock and chaeto that was running for years - at least 3 or 4

 

[Miami Reef]

Yeah I know and it will probably end up fruitless in all reality. I am not sure if any will even survive the hypo

Why don’t you try the peroxide method? It works to treat velvet and it’s reef safe. It was created in the Humblefish disease forum.

Super duper easy. All you need is a dosing pump and 3% hydrogen peroxide. If you are interested I can share you the link. I can even give you the dosing guide.

I really want to help you because I feel so bad for you. All you wanted was to have a FOWLR because it was much less stressful than an acropora tank, but this seems like something that I can only imagine in a nightmare. I can only imagine how you’re feeling.

If it was me I wouldn’t bother using hypo for velvet. That won’t work.

 

[hart24601]

Thanks! I have been using peroxide to n the dt with uv and also as baths before I put them in hypo. I thought it was ich is why I set up hypo and don’t want to switch it back quickly is why they are still in hypo right now.

I did the 150ppm on each before putting in the hypo and will try it out. I did try it on the Multibar too but I think was too late for him.

i already had 12% food grade peroxide for oxidators I started running again a week or two ago

 

[hart24601]

The oxidators are essentially dosers but not controlled. What are the dosing guide instructions? I have extra head I can use and remove the oxidators

 

[Miami Reef]

Thanks! I have been using peroxide to n the dt with uv and also as baths before I put them in hypo. I thought it was ich is why I set up hypo and don’t want to switch it back quickly is why they are still in hypo right now.

I did the 150ppm on each before putting in the hypo and will try it out. I did try it on the Multibar too but I think was too late for him.

i already had 12% food grade peroxide for oxidators I started running again a week or two ago

But the peroxide method uses 3% plus frequent overnight dosing which targets the natural cycle of velvet and ich, that’s what makes it work.

Here’s all the details. I HIGHLY recommend you follow this protocol. People have done eDNA (Aquabiomics test). They had ich, velvet, and even uronema. After the peroxide treatment (6+ weeks) they did another test and those parasites were negative.

You can read the entire thread. You’d have a much better chance knocking velvet with peroxide over using hypo.

Here’s the thread: https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/peroxide-h2o2-dosing-for-parasites-in-reef-tank.725/


Here’s the dosing:

• 1mL per 5 gallons every 8 hours, just before lights on, midday, and just after lights off.
• Overnight dosing: 2mL per 5 gallon split into 15 min intervals for 6 hours overnight. (2x a normal daytime dose split every 15min for 6 hours)

 

[hart24601]

Alright will give it a shot especially in the DT. I can just dilute the 12% or use smaller amounts easy enough

 

[Lowell Lemon]

Is it possible the artificial rock could be leaching something? Stray electrical leak to ground? Induced voltage? I am at a loss to even begin to understand your loss.

 

[hart24601]

Is it possible the artificial rock could be leaching something? Stray electrical leak to ground? Induced voltage? I am at a loss to even begin to understand your loss.

It’s possible but the inverts have been fine and they should be more sensitive. I’m 99% sure velvet got me. Many of the other losses listed were unhealthy arrivals that died in 3 days or less. The CB angels were rock solid with everything until the MB finally caught velvet. It also explains why when I added 2 UV into the DT it didn’t help, the velvet moves too fast at that point.