Input needed on an equipment cabinet.

RocketEngineer · Feb 6, 2020

My last tank started out with the equipment all inside the stand but as time went by I realized I needed more space so the ATO tank ended up out in the open. I also had wires and power bricks tucked into all sorts of places, making it a challenge to remove equipment for cleaning. This time around, I’m planning an equipment cabinet and have some considerations I could use input on.

The Setup: The tank is an IM 100 EXT. The sump will be under the tank, in the stand. There is a space behind the tank due to the overflow that will be covered but accessible from the left side. On the right side ofthe stand, I’m going to build the equipment cabinet with the ATO container on the bottom and the electrical section up top.

Question 1: Do I build the cabinet so it steps over the molding or do I leave an air gap?

Question 2: Should the back of the cabinet be closed in or open? Closed in only where the electronics will go?

Question 3: My intent is to place my quarantine tank on top of this side cabinet when needed. Other than structural, is there any considerations/additions you good folks can think of to make this easier to implement?

Thanks for the input.

Retro Reefer · Feb 6, 2020

Leaving it open in the back for ventilation would be beneficial but if your going to have a tank on top of it you need to think about spills and leaks potentially getting into cabinet.. I have something similar set up with a pico plumbed into my main display that sits on my electrical cabinet and I worry constantly about leaks.

RocketEngineer · Feb 10, 2020

Thanks Retro. The more I think about it, the more inclined I am to enclose the top section back as the electronics will be up there. In the bottom area will be my ATO container and that will be open in the back. The wires would then come out the bottom of the electronics section, creating drip loops.

Any other suggestions?

OutLawX77 · Feb 11, 2020

Hi Rocket
Question 1: Do I build the cabinet so it steps over the molding or do I leave an air gap?
Remove the molding from wall <-stud to stud-> (<outside to outside of studs-->) you,ll be using these studs to mount your cabinet walls too which will also support the smaller quarantine tank. Don't skip on the thickness of the walls
and extra good braces at the top as they will support some pound age. and NOT allowing a Toppling over problem .Now you need to know what type of studs you have, in the wall that you'll be mounting too
wood or thin metal framing
This will dictate how you need to fashion the walls together

Question 2: Should the back of the cabinet be closed in or open?
This should be Opened by venting ( find some cabinet fans Install in a pull me push you (same direction of airflow) placed

Closed in only where the electronics will go? If you enclose the electronics area then vent here
east to west install electronics
Not North to south

Question 3: My intent is to place my quarantine tank on top of this side cabinet when needed. Other than structural, is there any considerations/additions you good folks can think of to make this easier to implement?
See answer to question 1 LOL

RocketEngineer · Feb 11, 2020

Yeah, removing the baseboard molding on the house we just purchased is going to be a no go with the wife......Being married is one reason I can afford this hobby so....

I do think having the cabinet mount to the studs (wood frame house) is a smart move. I’m looking at placing a filler strip behind the top edge of the cabinet to span the gap to the wall over the moldings for a solid connection.

The space for the electronics will probably be a shelf above the ATO jug. That way I can route the wires out the open back while adding face plates to hold the controllers and such. Not sure I will need fans but I’ll keep an eye out for issues along those lines.