Isaac's CADE 1500s2/ Peninsula Reef Build

[Isaac Alves]

just to let you know if you would rather have imperial instead of metric on the manifolds if you have any old 1/2 in true union ball valves laying around the connector fits right inside the collar for the metric ones that come on the cade

I’m more interested in the pvc size for the two big overflow drain pipes in the sump, one has the gate valve. i need to mod these pipes to get the ReefMat 1200 to fit. I’m thinking of shortening the pipes to have the gate in the chiller section.

 

[oldmonk]

Nice detailing of the smallest thing that you are doing on this set up.

 

[Isaac Alves]

Reference Metric Pipe comparison chart
(via flexpvc.com)

​

This is for my own reference as I plan on the adjustment to the Cade Overflow main pipes. Others might find this useful.

 

[Isaac Alves]

Got my replacement door and parts from @AlgaeBarn. Thank you! Door looks great.

 

[Isaac Alves]

Doing major changes to the overflow drains in order to fit in the ReefMat 1200 into the first sump section.

First, the main drain that goes right into the ReefMat:

Moved the gate valve into the chiller section of the cabinet. I think this will work for me. Everything is cemented up nicely.

 

[Isaac Alves]

Second overflow (emergency) drain:

I needed to make room for the gate valve. I tried several options such as jacuzzi pipe, the remainder of the ReefMat pipe, pond pipe (which is too thin between the ribs in my opinion). Ultimately I just pointed a heat gun to a portion of the pipe to bend it slightly around the area where the gate valve lives. Carefully keeping the pipe along the same horizontal plane, so I was able to keep the horizontal flow that the Cade originally had with the pipe exiting the top square cut out.

There’s enough room to comfortably turn the gate

and the emergency drain fits nicely alongside the ReefMat piping:

 

[Isaac Alves]

So I didn’t put the ReefMat motor and wires in…duh. So I had to redo the emergency drain pipe and try something else.

 

[Isaac Alves]

I went back to utilizing the remaining Red Sea ReefMat piping.

Everything is accessible now. The motor works. And I’m able to easily open the roller carriages without any hindrance.

I actually prefer the flexible tubing now so I’m glad I updated it.

Now I still need to do a leak test on everything. But for reference I used the pipe sealant that came with the ReefMat to seal the pipe around a slightly larger than 1” pvc which is bonded/ cemented into the metric 40mm drain pipe. It was a snug fit.

 

[Isaac Alves]

80/20 Light Mounting System to hold an Aquatic Life 48” T5 Hybrid Gen3 Fixture
and 2 Radion G6 XR30s Blues.

This unit was designed by my friend, and local reefer, Tim. Tim stopped by this morning to do final measurements, as well as to make sure the pieces and setup will be easy for me NOT to mess up.

I really like this system. It will allow me to pivot the fixture side-to-side to quickly clean lights, change light bulbs, and allow full top access to the tank. It also will manually slide up or down as needed. Best of all it's strong. I can rest a lightweight wooden canopy-skirt to blend in with the living space and lessen light spill (if needed).

Parts list:

I ordered from both www.tnutz.com and 8020.net -- TNutz is having a really nice discounted sale on some parts right now.

 

[sphinx15]

Looks good, and fantastic write-up so far! I'll definitely be following along.

Really digging the light mount btw

 

[Isaac Alves]

Looks good, and fantastic write-up so far! I'll definitely be following along.

Really digging the light mount btw

I'm really excited about the light fixture as well. I'll document the process of putting it together and how well it functions. In case others are using similar Cade 1500 peninsula style tanks with the hybrid fixtures.

Right now I'm seeing that 8020.net is processing my order. I'm curious how long it will take them to cut and finalize my order.

 

[oldmonk]

The light fixture concept is very practical in terms of regular upkeep.

Curious to see how it turns out in actual

Thanks

 

[Isaac Alves]

Full parts list for Light Mount Extrusion system. In case anyone is looking at something similar. I'm still waiting on parts from 8020.net but I think they should be delivered today via the UPS shipping tracking data.


The Part #s and prices are all from 8020.net, but if I purchased from Tnutz I note the part number and cost below the 8020 listing.

Part #	Price per inch	Qty	Size	Total Cost	Description
1530-LS-Black	$1.59	1x	82 inches	$130.38	1.5" x 3"
1515-ULS-Black	$0.81	1x	75	$60.75	1.5" x 1.5"
1515-ULS-Black	$0.81	1x	48	$38.88	1.5" x 1.5"
1515-ULS-Black	$0.81	1x	7.5	$6.08	1.5" x 1.5"
1515-ULS-Black	$0.81	1x	4.4	$3.56	1.5" x 1.5"
6870-Black	$81.46	2x	NA	$162.92	Sliders
6800 [Purchased at TNUTZ #LH-015-B]	$19.59 Tnutz cost: $11.45	1x	NA	$19.59 Tnutz total: $11.45	15 Series "L" Handle Linear Bearing Brake Kit
4332-Black [Purchased at TNUTZ #CB-015-A-BLACK]	$9.03 Tnutz cost: $4.35	3x	NA	$27.09 Tnutz total: $16.65	2 hole Gusset
2061 [Purchased at Tnutz #HAN-015]	$9.77 Tnutz cost: $4.40	1x	NA	$9.77 Tnutz total: $4.40	Door Handle
4405-Black	$32.50	4x	NA	$130.00	Pivot Assembly
2045-Plain	$2.46	2x	NA	$4.92	1.5" x 3" Cap
3274	$0.18	4x	NA	$0.72	Push In Fastener
3282 [Purchased at Tnutz #DT-015]	$2.65 Tnutz cost: $0.85	8x	5/16-18	$21.20 Tnutz total: $6.80	(DT-015) Drop-In T-Nut with flexible rubber handle - 5/16-18
3320	$0.95	6x	5/16-18 x 11/16”	$5.70	FBHSCS & ECON T-NUT
3454 Black Bolt Assembly Comprised of: PN3110 5/16-18 x .625" Socket Head Cap Screw (SHCS) PN3278 5/16-18 Slide-in Economy T-Nut - Offset Thread	$0.78	2x	5/16-18 x .625"	$1.56	Bolt Assembly: 5/16-18 x .625" Black SHCS and Slide-In Economy T-Nut - Offset Thread - Black Zinc

 

[Isaac Alves]

8020 shipments came in.

Ordered on July 12 and received on July 19th. That’s pretty good since it included cutting extrusions for me. And the packaging came in nicely via UPS. Also included a full packing list. What I didn't realize when I ordered from 8020 was that they ship the necessary nuts/bolts/washers needed for each component --- this wasn't clear to me on their website so I had ordered extras.

Both boxes:

Smaller components were layered in a smaller box:

First layer, all small components packed individually and labeled:

Second layer had the heavier assemblies shrink-wrapped and labeled:

All parts:

The extrusions were serran wrapped tightly and packed in shipping paper and a rigid long box.

TNUTZ came in a few days earlier, but these were only small bolts/ handles, and gussets. They arrived via USPS and were basically stuffed in a priority USPS box. But for the price difference from 8020 I’m good with it.

I do wish it had a packing list. But your online account will have the shipping list on their website.

 

[oldmonk]

Looking forward to see the light mount shaping up

Thanks

 

[kiet_kat]

Beautiful. Following

 

[Isaac Alves]

RODI Mixing Station Upgrade


My “real” job ate up most of my time last week so not much was done outside of planning for an RODI station upgrade. I had to put the Cade display light build on hold after doing an inventory and making sure I got all of the parts. Although, I refocused on upgrading my salt mix station. I currently have just enough to ensure my 70 gallon Artisan Cadlights is good. But I need more reserve RODI and Salt water ready to go for the upgraded Cade Aquarium volume.


I was able to get a hold of 2x 100 gallon barrels with 1” inch threads from a local vendor. But I want to repurpose my current drums to ensure I have enough RODI ready to fill these guys up. My intent is to have ~200 gallons of salt mixing across two 100 gallon drums.

This means that I need to change my layout a bit in the garage and add some structure for the larger barrels. Here’s my model I’m targeting. I build it to scale using Blender so I can refer to the model to get sizes and cuts, etc.

This will give me shelving in the second row as well as provide space for storage.



New 100 gallon poly tanks look like this:

So Saturday and Sunday were taking up getting some inexpensive lumber (not cheap because wood is not cheap right now). Notching the 4x4s with a table saw, waxed up, took a lot longer than I expected.

I got the main framing done and will need to lag screw in the cross beams and mount the and top and bottom surfaces. I’ll be doing a little every day this week.

 

[sphinx15]

Looks fantastic, nice work.

Are you going to run a sediment filter on the mixing station? 10/10 would recommend

 

[Isaac Alves]

Looks fantastic, nice work.

Are you going to run a sediment filter on the mixing station? 10/10 would recommend

I'm using a 7 stage RODI system that is already installed in my garage that was being used for my current displays.

Here's a picture I shared on Instagram some time ago:

 

[sphinx15]

Pretty slick!

I actually meant on the mixing station itself. I have one on the pump for mixing saltwater. It's crazy how much crud gets pulled out. My saltwater container has stayed remarkably clean ever since I set up the filter.